Excessive Bouncing over Bumps
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Excessive Bouncing over Bumps
A little info about the car it has about 154K on the clock. I've replaced the front shocks w/ OEM, both compliance bushings in the LCA, front and rear motor mounts, and tranny mounts.
On to the issue, when I go over bumps the car bounces excessively side to side. It feels like the front end isn't tight what so ever which also plays into the steering of the car. Sometimes when I start the car I can feel a clunk in the steering wheel and also when I turn the wheel at a slow roll (I think the axles are bad?). I've had multiple shops check all the steering components and they always say their fine.
Also when I'm over uneven roads the car tends to lean to the lower side of the road more than I would consider normal.
I have a feeling it could be the ball joints (upper and lower) and the end links. Could bad sway bar bushings cause this too? Or are there other potential issues I'm not considering?
On to the issue, when I go over bumps the car bounces excessively side to side. It feels like the front end isn't tight what so ever which also plays into the steering of the car. Sometimes when I start the car I can feel a clunk in the steering wheel and also when I turn the wheel at a slow roll (I think the axles are bad?). I've had multiple shops check all the steering components and they always say their fine.
Also when I'm over uneven roads the car tends to lean to the lower side of the road more than I would consider normal.
I have a feeling it could be the ball joints (upper and lower) and the end links. Could bad sway bar bushings cause this too? Or are there other potential issues I'm not considering?
#2
I'd look at the sway bar end links. The end links are what keep the car from swaying side to side afterall and that's your problem.
I went with MOOG as they specialize in these components.
I went with MOOG as they specialize in these components.
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
Another question while I'm at it, when replacing the lower ball joint do you HAVE to dissemble everything to get to the knuckle to pop it out? (eg. brake caliper, axle nut, outer tie rod, etc..)
The reason I ask is some people say dissemble everything, and others don't mention dissembling and just hitting it with a hammer or using the pitman arm puller.
The reason I ask is some people say dissemble everything, and others don't mention dissembling and just hitting it with a hammer or using the pitman arm puller.
#4
You should be able to remove the lower control arm and remove it without touching the brakes. Would take some effort depending on corrosion. The ball joint itself also has a metal puck case that fits between the ball joint and arm. You'll need to re use this and press it in with the new ball joint.
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
You should be able to remove the lower control arm and remove it without touching the brakes. Would take some effort depending on corrosion. The ball joint itself also has a metal puck case that fits between the ball joint and arm. You'll need to re use this and press it in with the new ball joint.
Also what metal puck case are you referring to that needs to be reused? I'm going to buy the ball joint from moog doesn't it already come assembled?
#6
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
The LCA needs to be removed completely? I hope that's not what you meant because I know the ball joint sits in the knuckle. I'm thinking that the ball joint needs to be pressed/hit upward where the axle could get in the way.
Also what metal puck case are you referring to that needs to be reused? I'm going to buy the ball joint from moog doesn't it already come assembled?
Also what metal puck case are you referring to that needs to be reused? I'm going to buy the ball joint from moog doesn't it already come assembled?
https://www.google.com/search?q=acur...2F%3B640%3B480
https://www.google.com/search?q=acur...F%3B1080%3B810
Make certain when you install the Moog joint the nut is large enough to retain the unit as the earlier units came with a nut that was too small.
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
Here's the picture of the sleeve:
https://www.google.com/search?q=acur...2F%3B640%3B480
https://www.google.com/search?q=acur...F%3B1080%3B810
Make certain when you install the Moog joint the nut is large enough to retain the unit as the earlier units came with a nut that was too small.
https://www.google.com/search?q=acur...2F%3B640%3B480
https://www.google.com/search?q=acur...F%3B1080%3B810
Make certain when you install the Moog joint the nut is large enough to retain the unit as the earlier units came with a nut that was too small.
Not sure if you've tackled this job already but did you dissemble everything to free the knuckle? Some threads I read say they did some say don't... I can't see how it's possible with the axle in the way.
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