Electrical Issues that is messing with the radio

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Old Dec 14, 2015 | 05:46 PM
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Electrical Issues that is messing with the radio

Hello everyone,

I have some issues with my 05 TL, for some reason when I turn on my car the anti-theft light still blinks on my radio, and it would not allow me to put in the code (I am familiar with the process of inserting the radio code).

Some things I installed:

I had a viper car alarm and remote starter installed (Including trunk release soniload, A shock sensor, and another sensor if the car has been lifted up).

Side Markers:
2004 2008 Acura TL Smoked White LED 4piece Front Rear Side Marker Light Type S | eBay

12 Volts Ice Blue LEDS, replaced the factory interior, trunk, and license plate lights:

Amazon.com: YITAMOTOR 10 PCS T10 Wedge 5-SMD 5050 Ice Blue LED Light bulbs W5W 2825 158 192 168 194: Automotive Amazon.com: YITAMOTOR 10 PCS T10 Wedge 5-SMD 5050 Ice Blue LED Light bulbs W5W 2825 158 192 168 194: Automotive


Needed to replace my headlights:

Amazon.com: HID Xenon Low Beam Headlight Replacement Bulbs by Kensun - (Pack of two bulbs) - D2S - 8000K: Automotive Amazon.com: HID Xenon Low Beam Headlight Replacement Bulbs by Kensun - (Pack of two bulbs) - D2S - 8000K: Automotive

And a dvd player that came with the car when I bought it (I think it might be connected with fuse #32).

Replaced the positive terminal for the battery because it was lose no matter how much I tightened it.

Issues:
After about a month of having viper system installed, my ACC fuse (#32) was blown, my friend swapped it out with a 10 amp.

My shock sensor was replaced.

I had issues where the car would turn on the lights by itself (doesn't seem to be doing it anymore).

Sometimes when I lock the car the alarm would go off.

The factory key fob that came with the viper system does not work (the LCD one that I bought with it does).

Sometimes my airbag light comes on.


Troubleshooting:
I checked all my fuses and not one of them is blown. Does anyone else think that the issue lies with the car alarm itself. I've set up an appointment at a trusted car alarm installer, and they said that it is possible that whoever installed it might of done a crap job (Best Buy), and it is possible that because they did not do a good job it might have messed up the computer of the car.

I was also wondering if there is any way to perform a "cold boot" on the car's electrical system. For those who do not know what is a "cold boot", it is the process of removing all power sources from a computer then hold down the power button for 30 seconds to clear the circuits which contain electricity.









If you guys need some more information let me know.
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Old Dec 15, 2015 | 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Guademate
. I've set up an appointment at a trusted car alarm installer, and they said that it is possible that whoever installed it might of done a crap job (Best Buy), and it is possible that because they did not do a good job it might have messed up the computer of the car.



you may be on to something... that does not seem kosher
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Old Dec 15, 2015 | 07:34 AM
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A proper way to do that would have been to add an "Add a Fuse"

Amazon.com: Pico 0956PT 10 Amp ATM Mini Blade Fuse Add-A-Circuit Fuse Holder: Automotive Amazon.com: Pico 0956PT 10 Amp ATM Mini Blade Fuse Add-A-Circuit Fuse Holder: Automotive
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Old Dec 15, 2015 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by thoiboi
A proper way to do that would have been to add an "Add a Fuse"

Amazon.com: Pico 0956PT 10 Amp ATM Mini Blade Fuse Add-A-Circuit Fuse Holder: Automotive
Hmm, so you think the issue lies with the terminal that is located at the end of the wire?
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Old Dec 15, 2015 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Guademate
Hmm, so you think the issue lies with the terminal that is located at the end of the wire?
it's shady at best.
the only way to find out if it fixes your problem is to fix the issue and see.
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Old Dec 16, 2015 | 07:52 PM
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sounds like the alarm is the issue. It's probably not deactivating the factory alarm properly.
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