Driveline Vibration. Possible fix now? (3G Garage# A-010)
#481
bad vibe still applies to 08 type s
I have an 08 type s with the 5AT and I get the driveline vibration every day on the way to work - pretty consistent at about 50 mph/1500 RPM - the steering wheel and driver's side floor board vibrate pretty bad. I'm still under warranty for a bit - any suggestions? Do the replacement axles really work?
#482
^^^ I went to the dealer and the tech agreed it did have a vibration. They ended up telling me they found another TL with the same behavior and that it was within parameters and normal. I gotta work on my letter to Acura because that was a BS answer. Not sure if it's gonna get us anywhere but I'm gonna try. Mine isn't very bad but is noticeable.
#483
fixed bent rim
In preparation to sell my 08 tl-s 5at, I had two of my wheels refinished and all of them checked - turns out one was bent nearly an inch. For $65, I got the rim straightened. I also had the wheels balanced. I drove the car and had a noticeable improvement. The vibration was a lot less and the car handled a lot better. The engine seems to the source of all remaining vibration - just sitting in park, I get a vibration through my steering wheel and the driver's seat. I plan on putting in new spark plugs and a couple cans of fuel system cleaner. Does anyone else have any ideas or do you experience the same vibration? It is a lot more manageable now. PS. For $85 per wheel, i got them refinished/baked - it looks great!
#485
Cruisin'
Unbelievable....
This issue is just unbelievable.....my story: Bought my 05 TL A/T with 67500 mi in Oct.
-Noticed the "shudder" when I was buying the car (from a Honda dealership). I had it checked out by Acura before I purchased and mentioned this issue. They found a broken motor mount. Honda replaced the motor mount and stated that the remaining vibration was due to the low profile tires.
-Drove it for a few weeks and the problem continued. The shudder is at 1500-2200 rpm in 4th and 5th gear between 45-65mph. I brought it back to Honda and they forced balanced the tires....no change.
-I research and discover that some people solved the problem by changing the AT fluid. I do a 3x3 drain and fill with the new Honda AT fluid (DW-1??) and no change. I also see that people change out the 3rd and 4th pressure switches-not ready to do this at this point.
-Started researching and found the service bulletin for the engine damper. Had that replaced/added, still have the damn vibration/shudder. The tech agreed it was still there and said he couldn't fix it, he recommended that I bring it to Acura to test.
-Bring it back to Acura (another $110) and they say it's not the tranny as the vibration continues when tranny is put into neutral. They say that the tires have high spots and this is the cause. (Why didn't they discover this the first time there????)
-I then bring it to a buddy who is a tranny specialist. I tell him my history and he agrees that it is not the tranny and he thinks it is the tires (a set of cheap Goodride tires). He says not to mess with the 3rd and 4th pressure switches or the torque converter, he believes my tranny is good.
-So I then switch the tires out with another set that I have on my Legend (stock TL rims bored to fit the Legend with Toyo tires). Still notice the vibration although it's slightly better. So I think this rules out the tires/rims.....
-I am getting sick of trying to diagnose this, why can't a certified mechanic find out what is wrong??? I feel that I am becoming a master mechanic myself...so moving down the line with possible issues-could warped rotors be the problem? Would this cause the vibration only during certain rpm, mph ranges? Just trying to troubleshoot and wonder if this could be the cause of the shudder/vibration????
-Noticed the "shudder" when I was buying the car (from a Honda dealership). I had it checked out by Acura before I purchased and mentioned this issue. They found a broken motor mount. Honda replaced the motor mount and stated that the remaining vibration was due to the low profile tires.
-Drove it for a few weeks and the problem continued. The shudder is at 1500-2200 rpm in 4th and 5th gear between 45-65mph. I brought it back to Honda and they forced balanced the tires....no change.
-I research and discover that some people solved the problem by changing the AT fluid. I do a 3x3 drain and fill with the new Honda AT fluid (DW-1??) and no change. I also see that people change out the 3rd and 4th pressure switches-not ready to do this at this point.
-Started researching and found the service bulletin for the engine damper. Had that replaced/added, still have the damn vibration/shudder. The tech agreed it was still there and said he couldn't fix it, he recommended that I bring it to Acura to test.
-Bring it back to Acura (another $110) and they say it's not the tranny as the vibration continues when tranny is put into neutral. They say that the tires have high spots and this is the cause. (Why didn't they discover this the first time there????)
-I then bring it to a buddy who is a tranny specialist. I tell him my history and he agrees that it is not the tranny and he thinks it is the tires (a set of cheap Goodride tires). He says not to mess with the 3rd and 4th pressure switches or the torque converter, he believes my tranny is good.
-So I then switch the tires out with another set that I have on my Legend (stock TL rims bored to fit the Legend with Toyo tires). Still notice the vibration although it's slightly better. So I think this rules out the tires/rims.....
-I am getting sick of trying to diagnose this, why can't a certified mechanic find out what is wrong??? I feel that I am becoming a master mechanic myself...so moving down the line with possible issues-could warped rotors be the problem? Would this cause the vibration only during certain rpm, mph ranges? Just trying to troubleshoot and wonder if this could be the cause of the shudder/vibration????
#488
Update...I had the dealer check it out again while there for some rattle fixes and apparently this tech really balanced the tires and when driving it home it felt like the vibration was greatly reduced. Looks like I have a bad set of front tires or perhaps a bent wheel.
#489
10th Gear
05 Acura TL Vibration
I have the exact same issue, 55-65mph I get a constant vibration gets better when the rpm's/transmission shifts to around the 1500-1700rpm's but still a shudder in the steering wheel.
I was hoping to find a answer to solve this but seems alot of people are still experiencing this issue.
I found out I had 2 bent rims, have brand new tires replaced twice and had front rotors resurfaced.
Each time the car drove great and within a week the vibration came back. The Service Mgr. is telling me it is the car's characteristic and nothing they can do.
Im pissed off because driving the speed limit you have this vibration thats uncomfortable, B.S.
I have removed any doubt that tires or rims are the cause now, Even spoke to GM of the delearship and long discussion to ensure my car was thoroughly gone through but now the service mgr. says he drove another customers 05TL and it has the same vibration. DUH
A definite issue and they are going to play it off as just the characteristics of the Acura TL.
I've only had the car for 30days now with just over 90K mi. on it and now i dont know what I can do from this point. I found Acura HDQTRS number that I am going to try and call and voice my opinion on this issue but for the moment Im not going to get any relief from the dealer.
I was hoping to find a answer to solve this but seems alot of people are still experiencing this issue.
I found out I had 2 bent rims, have brand new tires replaced twice and had front rotors resurfaced.
Each time the car drove great and within a week the vibration came back. The Service Mgr. is telling me it is the car's characteristic and nothing they can do.
Im pissed off because driving the speed limit you have this vibration thats uncomfortable, B.S.
I have removed any doubt that tires or rims are the cause now, Even spoke to GM of the delearship and long discussion to ensure my car was thoroughly gone through but now the service mgr. says he drove another customers 05TL and it has the same vibration. DUH
A definite issue and they are going to play it off as just the characteristics of the Acura TL.
I've only had the car for 30days now with just over 90K mi. on it and now i dont know what I can do from this point. I found Acura HDQTRS number that I am going to try and call and voice my opinion on this issue but for the moment Im not going to get any relief from the dealer.
#490
I have the exact same issue, 55-65mph I get a constant vibration gets better when the rpm's/transmission shifts to around the 1500-1700rpm's but still a shudder in the steering wheel.
I was hoping to find a answer to solve this but seems alot of people are still experiencing this issue.
I found out I had 2 bent rims, have brand new tires replaced twice and had front rotors resurfaced.
Each time the car drove great and within a week the vibration came back. The Service Mgr. is telling me it is the car's characteristic and nothing they can do.
Im pissed off because driving the speed limit you have this vibration thats uncomfortable, B.S.
I have removed any doubt that tires or rims are the cause now, Even spoke to GM of the delearship and long discussion to ensure my car was thoroughly gone through but now the service mgr. says he drove another customers 05TL and it has the same vibration. DUH
A definite issue and they are going to play it off as just the characteristics of the Acura TL.
I've only had the car for 30days now with just over 90K mi. on it and now i dont know what I can do from this point. I found Acura HDQTRS number that I am going to try and call and voice my opinion on this issue but for the moment Im not going to get any relief from the dealer.
I was hoping to find a answer to solve this but seems alot of people are still experiencing this issue.
I found out I had 2 bent rims, have brand new tires replaced twice and had front rotors resurfaced.
Each time the car drove great and within a week the vibration came back. The Service Mgr. is telling me it is the car's characteristic and nothing they can do.
Im pissed off because driving the speed limit you have this vibration thats uncomfortable, B.S.
I have removed any doubt that tires or rims are the cause now, Even spoke to GM of the delearship and long discussion to ensure my car was thoroughly gone through but now the service mgr. says he drove another customers 05TL and it has the same vibration. DUH
A definite issue and they are going to play it off as just the characteristics of the Acura TL.
I've only had the car for 30days now with just over 90K mi. on it and now i dont know what I can do from this point. I found Acura HDQTRS number that I am going to try and call and voice my opinion on this issue but for the moment Im not going to get any relief from the dealer.
Since you posted this post, with a lot more information about your problem, I deleted the other two posts you made which were not quite as descriptive as this one.
#491
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Charleston
Age: 49
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I have had the same problem for years now. When I bought the car I didn't notice it at all. I recently had a competent shop do rotation, balance, and alignment and although the vibration has been greatly reduced, it is still there. It occurs at about 75-85. When I push past these speeds the vibration goes away. When I let off of the gas it gets worse. I was thinking it was a bent rim but who knows. I am no TL sherlock with all of it's problems. 05 TL MT 60k miles
#492
My 2008 Acura RL whilst cruising at lower speeds of 35-45 MPH tends to at times emit a strange soft vibrating noise. Because it is irregular have had difficulty in getting the dealer mechanic to spot/hear it. Help!!
#493
Intermediate
It is extremely annoying since this is highway cruising speed. I would love to get rid of it if its possible. I just ordered some Redline Racing ATF and was thinking about picking up some motor mounts to see if that helped too.
did you use stock axles?
where did you buy them?
how much?
Is this a DIY?
Thanks!
#494
^^^ I replaced both my axles, all motor mounts, fixed 2 bent rims, new tires, 2 alignments, 2 road force balance and still have this. If you have new tires, it's most likely your tires, some just don't want to balance out. But as for the 1.5-2k rpm the problem is that it's low rpm studdering, like if you ever drive a manual and try to gas it in the lower rpms it will shake too. I think buying the kit that adds an existing mount to the lower motor mount would help.
#495
^^^ Dayem that's sad bro. I also thought it was tires or wheels because the last Acura tech did some magic and the problem was almost gone for 1-2 weeks.
This week I took it to a high-end shop that road force balanced the tires and checked axles and again the problem was reduced but not by much.
I'll be upgrading to 18 or 19's soon and will see if that helps as it should remove the wheels and tires from the equation.
This week I took it to a high-end shop that road force balanced the tires and checked axles and again the problem was reduced but not by much.
I'll be upgrading to 18 or 19's soon and will see if that helps as it should remove the wheels and tires from the equation.
#496
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
^if it isn't the rims/tires...upgraded to a bigger wheel will make it more obvious
PS...I went to a honda tech (forum member, nitrous) for my vibration that I couldn't shake. Similar things done to what usmarinedelta did...he ended up rebalancing everything for me...and then he tightened a bolt on the steering rack that he says is often not touched because it's hard to get to.
Just a suggestion but my car has been fine since.
I also will say that once you have the problem, I'm convinced you become much more sensitive to paying attention to it which also makes it worse.
PS...I went to a honda tech (forum member, nitrous) for my vibration that I couldn't shake. Similar things done to what usmarinedelta did...he ended up rebalancing everything for me...and then he tightened a bolt on the steering rack that he says is often not touched because it's hard to get to.
Just a suggestion but my car has been fine since.
I also will say that once you have the problem, I'm convinced you become much more sensitive to paying attention to it which also makes it worse.
#502
I have an '08 TL-S and had the vibration mostly between 65-80, they finally road balanced the tires and it seems to have worked for the most part, I still feel a vibration but not all the time which leads me to believe it may now be the roads (fingers crossed)
The following 2 users liked this post by rockstar143:
Hacura (10-24-2011),
usmarinedelta (10-23-2011)
#505
I looked around online and it appears the steering rack is located right above the axle/rack and pinion assembly intersection. I've worked on the more easier stuff on cars but suspension and steering isn't one of them (besides a PSP). I'll take a look underneath and see if I can get to any of the bolts, might as well poke around and see if anything is loose.
#510
10th Gear
Rack Guide Adjustment
It's the rack guide adjustment. From what I understand it tightens the pinion closer to the rack. In my experience of chasing this vibration problem in the steering wheel....this adjustment was my most successful attempt. It tightens the steering wheel and makes the car feel more confident at high speed...although you make it too tight and it the wheel won't return to center without effort (which I personally do not like). However you can tighten this adjustment to the point the steering wheel has no almost vibration whatsoever...but at the cost of more effort to turn.
I think this should have been a req'd maintenance item just like valve adjustment....the rack and pinion wears as time goes on thus creating more play in the box.
1. Remove the driver's side wheel
2. The rack adjustment is located on the back of the steering rack...immediately below where the steering column goes into the rack. The space is tight...but it can be done with some patience.
3. Use a pair of channel-locks to untighten the lock nut - Honda USE TO make a special tool for this but when I went to purchase it they claim it is no longer available. I have about 4 pairs of channel locks and only one was the right size to get in there and still have room to turn the 40mm lock-nut.
4. Then use a 3/8" ratchet to tighten the rack adjustment screw. Don't gorilla tighten it...it should just be tight. In my experience I drove and re-adjusted a couple times to get the feel I wanted.
5. Re-tighten lock nut.
I'd recommend anyone with this car experiencing 65-80mph shimmy vibration in wheel to give this a try....you will be happy afterwards....when I did it 40k miles ago, I thought I had struck gold. Although keep in mind this won't solve your 50mph engine driveline vibration, rough idle, bent rim vibrations, inherited hair loss, etc.
See Attached PDF as well. I didn't do all the additional things they talk about it the service manual...I just loosened the locknut....tightened the screw...and retighted the locknut.
I think this should have been a req'd maintenance item just like valve adjustment....the rack and pinion wears as time goes on thus creating more play in the box.
1. Remove the driver's side wheel
2. The rack adjustment is located on the back of the steering rack...immediately below where the steering column goes into the rack. The space is tight...but it can be done with some patience.
3. Use a pair of channel-locks to untighten the lock nut - Honda USE TO make a special tool for this but when I went to purchase it they claim it is no longer available. I have about 4 pairs of channel locks and only one was the right size to get in there and still have room to turn the 40mm lock-nut.
4. Then use a 3/8" ratchet to tighten the rack adjustment screw. Don't gorilla tighten it...it should just be tight. In my experience I drove and re-adjusted a couple times to get the feel I wanted.
5. Re-tighten lock nut.
I'd recommend anyone with this car experiencing 65-80mph shimmy vibration in wheel to give this a try....you will be happy afterwards....when I did it 40k miles ago, I thought I had struck gold. Although keep in mind this won't solve your 50mph engine driveline vibration, rough idle, bent rim vibrations, inherited hair loss, etc.
See Attached PDF as well. I didn't do all the additional things they talk about it the service manual...I just loosened the locknut....tightened the screw...and retighted the locknut.
The following 3 users liked this post by mwadden:
#511
Thanks for the advice!!! So to hold the lock nut you use lock pliers, then you just use a 3/8th wrench to turn it while holding the vise grip right? Could you use a regular adjustable wrench or a certain mm wrench? Thanks.
#513
This has to be the longest running thread I have ever read in any forum I've joined. Congratulations to all of you for your perseverence and shame on you, Acura, for allowing this problem to go on for so long. I have an 08 TL automatic which I bought about 6 weeks ago. The car, off-lease, had only 19.5 K miles on it. There is a vibration through the floor and the seat at about 2000 RPM, regardless of the speed. The dealer has re-balanced the tires once. I'll be going back to the dealer next week for an oil change, and I think I'll bring up the TSB about the engine mount damper. I'll let you know what happens. I do put on about 2000 miles a month on the car and I change the oil every 3500 to 4000 miles, so it can become quite expensive and inconvenient to do the changes at the dealer because he is about 15 miles away and dealers change more than the local oil change shops. Other than the vibration, I really do like the car a great deal. It handles beautifully, has good power, has lots of little bells and whisles, and looks sharp, even for a 4-door! Hy
#514
10th Gear
usmarinedelta,
You just need to break the locknut loose....then you can turn the locknut with your fingers....I know the diagram shows holding one while tightening the other.....But it's not necessarily and makes it more difficult trying to have both tools in there at once. A pair of channel locks really does the trick just fine if you have an average size pair. You should only need to tighten the guide screw about half a turn....up to a whole turn. Like I said the guide screw should not be tightened gorilla style....just ratchet it....until it comes to a nice firm stop. Then pull out the ratchet and tighten the locknut with pliers.
Btw, this really only fixes your steering wheel vibration by tightening the steering rack (while also improving steering confidence on highway). If you feel vibrations elsewhere they will be the same. My car is pretty smooth up until 70mph and there is some vibrations that seem to be triggered by asphalt highways....concrete highways the car drives like its on glass. I can deal with some vibrations in the seat, but the steering wheel shimmy makes me crazy after 30 minutes...and this rack adjustment fixes that.
Professor48,
Sounds like this has more to do with your engine rather than drivetrain which is what this thread is about. I love my car too, its an overall amazing car and I have put 100k on mine since I got it. I had to replace my front and side engine mounts which were both trashed by 80k. This did make a difference in the smoothness but take note, my car has never been perfectly smooth like lets say a Camry. The design (which I believe is flawed but was I think Honda's attempt to make the car sporty)...does not absorb vibrations...causing endless rattles...noises...etc that drive many people crazy - especially if you drive on rough roads. Something about the subframe and front suspension just is not right on this car. I've learned to live with the car the way it is. It shouldn't be too hard to pinpoint a problem.....unless of course the problem is the design itself. Evidenced by no real solution in 7 years and 17 pages here.
You just need to break the locknut loose....then you can turn the locknut with your fingers....I know the diagram shows holding one while tightening the other.....But it's not necessarily and makes it more difficult trying to have both tools in there at once. A pair of channel locks really does the trick just fine if you have an average size pair. You should only need to tighten the guide screw about half a turn....up to a whole turn. Like I said the guide screw should not be tightened gorilla style....just ratchet it....until it comes to a nice firm stop. Then pull out the ratchet and tighten the locknut with pliers.
Btw, this really only fixes your steering wheel vibration by tightening the steering rack (while also improving steering confidence on highway). If you feel vibrations elsewhere they will be the same. My car is pretty smooth up until 70mph and there is some vibrations that seem to be triggered by asphalt highways....concrete highways the car drives like its on glass. I can deal with some vibrations in the seat, but the steering wheel shimmy makes me crazy after 30 minutes...and this rack adjustment fixes that.
Professor48,
Sounds like this has more to do with your engine rather than drivetrain which is what this thread is about. I love my car too, its an overall amazing car and I have put 100k on mine since I got it. I had to replace my front and side engine mounts which were both trashed by 80k. This did make a difference in the smoothness but take note, my car has never been perfectly smooth like lets say a Camry. The design (which I believe is flawed but was I think Honda's attempt to make the car sporty)...does not absorb vibrations...causing endless rattles...noises...etc that drive many people crazy - especially if you drive on rough roads. Something about the subframe and front suspension just is not right on this car. I've learned to live with the car the way it is. It shouldn't be too hard to pinpoint a problem.....unless of course the problem is the design itself. Evidenced by no real solution in 7 years and 17 pages here.
#515
Yeah I only have a vibration at 70-80mph. I've replaced all my mounts, axles, tires, and road force balance, I hope this will solve the issue. This is for the steering wheel vibration which I have, but I also have the driveline vibration that people are experiencing from 1.5-2k rpms like the engine is bogging, I think that's where the tsb damper comes into play. But it's a tsb for 04's only but all models have this issue.
#516
10th Gear
Yeah I only have a vibration at 70-80mph. I've replaced all my mounts, axles, tires, and road force balance, I hope this will solve the issue. This is for the steering wheel vibration which I have, but I also have the driveline vibration that people are experiencing from 1.5-2k rpms like the engine is bogging, I think that's where the tsb damper comes into play. But it's a tsb for 04's only but all models have this issue.
BTW, I have replaced the compliance bushings, shocks, upper ball joints, tie-rod ends, new Michelin Pilots, new rims, end-links, new Brembo rotors.........and most recently the steering rack itself because the car was very sloppy and unstable on the highway (many alignments didn't fix this). Now the car drives more confidently and stops more smoothly as I assume the wheels are maintaining more of a straight line at all times. I believe my problem was an inner tie rod because it would have a slight clunk over certain speed bumps and dips which has since gone away. Between you and I...we have eliminated a lot of possibilities for vibration issues...considering you notice the vibration exactly between 70-80mph just like I do.
In fact, when I installed my new steering rack the shimmy in the wheel came back. I didn't think it was necessary to check the rack adjustment before I put it in since it was new. I was wrong....so a couple days later I pulled the tire and tightened it up...and the wheel was smooth once again.
#517
Mwadden,
Thanks for taking the time and posting. I hope this works for USmarinedelta and others that may be experiencing similar issues. My driveline vibration doesn't come through into the steering wheel unless it is a very severe vibration which I've only experienced once with a full load of people and a bad road. Steering wheel feels confident and crisp all the time...my issue must be further down in the axles or other closely connected parts.
Thanks for taking the time and posting. I hope this works for USmarinedelta and others that may be experiencing similar issues. My driveline vibration doesn't come through into the steering wheel unless it is a very severe vibration which I've only experienced once with a full load of people and a bad road. Steering wheel feels confident and crisp all the time...my issue must be further down in the axles or other closely connected parts.
#518
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
^^^mwadden, you're the man. I didn't even know what it was Nitrous tightened and USmarine, sorry man...just coming back to this thread now and I see the question has been answered. I'd have asked him to tell me, but it would be me relaying the information blindly...this worked out MUCH better.
I love this forum...
I love this forum...
#519
Hey Professsor > I have the identical problem with my 07 automatic, replaced the tires, as they had seen their days, had them balanced and the works, no difference in the floor vibration, getting a wheel alignment next week and shall see if any difference, could you please report back if you are able to rectify yours.
#520
UPDATE: This didn't work for me. I tried it and it didn't work, however it did make the steering tighter which felt great, it felt like I just installed new lower control arm bushings. I think the problem for me at this point is tires, even though I've had them for a few months, the problem pretty much goes away when things are warmed up.