Greetings,

I hope someone has run into this before....

07 AT 130k

I bought rotors and pads to install yesterday. Got the wheels off and tugged on a few things to see if I had finally worn the part causing my vibration enough to be seen. Sure nuff, play in the inner CV joint on both sides. Went out got the CVs and returned. I proceeded to ruin my lower ball joint, control arm, and tie rod end taking them apart (very rusty from living in Ohio all 130k)... Yes I did have the right "seperator" tools.

Cotter pin snapped off inside one TRE, seized with rust.

Both lower ball joints slipped out with the control arm collar attached.

Second TRE just mashed the threads pushing it out of the knuckle.

I have ordered upper and lower BJs (HAHA), the updated Mevotech lower control arms CMS601021 & CMS601022, and the TREs. My question is does anyone have any tips for making sure I don't ruin $300 in parts?

Having local shop press new TIMKIN bearings into the knuckles while I have them off. (Dealer seems to have cross threaded a lug on one side and I would rather this be pressed properly).

 

With new parts and hardware, I don't see how you're going to be stripping or ruining hardware upon installation unless being done wrong. The ball joints wont need an sort of tool that can chew up the boots. Greasing the dust boots prior to using the separator tool for removal would have helped with snagging and cracking of the boot if that's what occurred.

A service manual is also a good idea to have by your side should you need it.

As for the disassemble of your rusty items, did you use any sort of penetrating lube (liquid wrench, pb blaster)? That stuff can go a good ways to preventing stripping and stuck bolts. Heating those areas can also help.

Good luck with the new parts!

 

Easy way to avoid the problem with the BJ/sleeve, just remove the LCA 2 bolts, shock through bolt or fork bolt 1 bolt, and lower stabilizer link 1 nut, and pull the LCA out with the knuckle attached to remove the axle.

 

Yep had the FSM, had the tools, it was even the right size to catch the edge of the sleeve. Boots were fine threads and cotter pin holes are screwed and I even used a bolt on the end to try and protect them. Hand turned the tool bolt and still popped the sleeves. All soaked in PB. Must have been loose. Still seems like a dumb design but I guess serves some purpose.

 

There are a few things I feel like someone should point out about working on our 3G front suspensions and aftermarket parts. I realize some may feel I am beating a dead horse here; for that I apologize.

AAP claims one set of axles (NCV36127&28) fit the 04-08 Base AT TL. Most of know this cannot be. Ordered OEM ones and they popped right on after over a hour of trying to get a part to fit that was millimeters off.

Mevotech CMS601021&22 lower control arms have a mounting point for the stabilizer links that is too small. Stud on the OEM link is several millimeters too big. Other than that I will report if anything else comes up with these as I have both sides installed now.

Moog ball joints and tie rod ends do not have cotter pins but lock nuts. How do folks feel about this? Instructions also mention greasing them after installation and a short drive. The grease looks green when I peeked under the “zerk”. Does everyone do this? What is wrong with the grease in the joints? Is it not full? Instructions just say “high quality chassis” grease. I assume something like Lucas #2 Red n’ Tacky would be good? 540 drop point…
If anyone else has something to add here I would love to hear it.

Dropped her off at the local dealer for alignment and to investigate why the left side CV popped out on the first test drive. They say it wasn’t fully seated, I think the set ring was crap on the reman they sold me.

 

Stealership put a new axle on like I was supposed to have in the first place and all seems fine. How likely is it you wouldn't seat the left side shaft right into the tranny? Right side onto the intermediate shaft sure, but the left just slides right in and clicks...

 

Been about 1000 miles and all is well. Still sounds great. The vibration I was getting seems better but they also told me that they found two bent rims when balancing (both on the back now). Obviously I need to address this, the stealership advised they have some places here in Columbus, OH that will "repair" them. Is this worth it?