I did some search about replacing crush oil plug ring and I did not get clean answer.
I did my first oil change and I forgot to insert the ring.. Do I need to drain the oil (mobile 1 5w-20 syn) and put the ring? do you think? Advise please

 

You need the crush washer. Otherwise the drain bolt can get loose..

I've never encountered this but it sounds like it could get messy if you don't drain and then plug. I would get a clean container.. and I mean clean.. drain the oil into it. Wipe down the area and replug with crush washer.. and refill with drained oil.

 

^^ i havent used a crush washed a couple of times. its not right and you might mess up the drain bolt a little. its okay though. next change replace drain bolt and washer $5 max. i recently replaced and now have washer.

 

Thanks guys.. I will just do that.. putting a washer

 

it depends if a real crushable washer was used or a standard copper seal the last time
As long as its 29 foot pounds tight and no leaks- you are ok till next change

Some people and shops never change it, others know if a shop has touched the car the plug is too tight and needs a new washer this time

 

I think the OP is saying that he just replaced the drain bolt with no crush washer at all.

 

After I check the dip stick for oil level, my level is above the top line on the dip stick. Is is Ok? What could happen with too much oil?

 

sounds like you overfilled it. How many qts? did you replace the filter? do not overfill..

 

If it's just a touch above the full line, you're Ok. If you really do have too much oil in your crankcase, that is not good at all. The crankshaft can contact the oil and whip it into a frothy foam (assuming there is no windage tray and I don't recall if our engines have one). Not only that but oil can be force into the cylinders (not very likely) and significantly increase the mechanical compression ratio which can result in detonation (remember, liquids are not compressable).

So if it is just a little bit above the line, I wouldn't worry about it. If it is quite a bit above the line, drain some out.

 

a gen2 perspective:
Buy a new drain plug that comes with washer $3 parts stores everywhere
Assume the oil plug has been overtightened in the past and distored its threads so its abilty to properly torque and seal are compromised

In this case- if the OP either used no washer (immediate fix required) or the old one and is concerned:
Buy the new plug, with car cold and on jackstand or ramps, keeping the new plug handy- you unscrew the old plug- pushing in on it -inward- as you unscrew- that keeps most of the oil inside. Then remove old and pop the new one in- carefully start threads so you know its not going in cross-thread,,,(making its own new threads)
Minor loss of oil- replace thru filler cap

Oil level- the min line is absolute min, so its best to keep the level at Full all the time
If your capacity is same as gen2, 4.7 with filter, 5 is going to be just a tick over full on the stick
Engines naturally burn a little oil so you will be at min when its 7500 time for oil change

 

the tl doesnt use a real "crush" washer, therefore its not necessary to replace the washer, but i would suggest you use the washer that was there in lue of not using a washer at all...

a crush washer is exactly what it says, its a washer that under tourque actually crushes down....the washer that comes on the drain plug for the tl is just a washer period, it doesnt compress or crush...

 

I buy mine at zone in a 3 pack of 14 mm copper looking metal washer
Good idea to replace each time but not many do,

do NOT run without the washer.
Its meant to sit flat between the steel bolt and aluminum end of the oil pan
Proper torque is achieved only with it in place

 

I got a 100 crush-washers off ebay, for $6 shipped. Really inexpensive protection to oil leaks. Listen to 01tl4tl, you don't want to over-torque the drain plug.

 

just got done changing my oil yesterday...4.5 qts 5w30 valvoline synpower, mobil 1 m1-110 filter and the same washer that came with the car....20k miles, new brakes will be comming soon, probably next oil change

 

I just bought a used 05 TL. I absolutely love it so far. I traded in a 97 Infiniti I30 for it, and having a car that is 8 years newer blows me away. I love all the bells and whistles.

I have a question... When I start the car, the dash board shows me there is less than 15% life on the oil. It also gives me a service code of "A-1". Does this just mean the oil needs to be changed, or could it be something else. I don't have an owner's manual or a service manual. I found the owner's manual on line, but I can't find the service manual and I don't want to drop $200 every time the service indicator comes on at the Acura dealer. Can anybody help?

 

Code A1 means replace engine oil (the A - don't have to change filter according to the owners manual), and rotate tires (the 1).

https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/...505O00204A.pdf Go to pg 209.

 

That really helps me. Thank you for such a quick response!

 

These washers that you pick up at zone, are they equivalent to the OEM Acrua ones?

Thanks!

 

So equivalent that Acura buys them there at wholesale and marks them up x3.. lol.. if Tom says it's good.. trust that it's good.

 

i just happend to be at my local honda dealer the other day and thought what the heck, i guess since i am here i can go to parts and get the damn washer that i normally would never replace since honda/acura doesnt use a true crush washer....i walked up to the counter and the guy just gave it to me for free....

 

nice.. I have two parts guys at my local parts department.. one guy who never discounts anything even after I show him online pricing and prove that the dealership online parts store is lower than the price he quotes over the counter.. douche.

The other guy.. "how much do you say Honda has it for?.. awe heck I'll just sell it to you wholesale" (lower than the price I gave him)...

I bought the drain & fill crush washers for my rear diff on my MDX.. they were almost $2 each.. they definitely needed replacement but damn.. $2! each!.. didn't feel like making a detour for stupid crush washers.. so I bought 'em

 

I have a 2008 TL-S. I'm in the middle of changing my oil right now. When I remove the drain plug, there is no crush ring at all. Just the bolt. Did the factory forgot to put the crush ring? or TL-S deosn't have a crush ring? BTW, this is my first oil change for my TL-S since I purchase it. Now is at 6.5K miles. My '08 CR-V has a crush ring.

 

? - how would a tire rotate go about in terms of which tire to its new location ie front left to back right front right to back left? is that how it works?

 

You need a crush ring. If there wasn't one on there, someone forgot to put it on. Go to Autozone and get 3 in a pack. The ones I got were copper. I think they needs to be 14mm if I remember correctly.

 

The manual tells you how to do this. Front right to rear right, rear right to front left, front left to rear left, rear left to front right.

 

The '04's and '05's use an aluminum washer for the crankcase drain bolt. I have to assume the later models use this as well so this is what you want to be using for your car. Also, don't forget to use a torque wrench. The year TL's I just mentioned torque to 29 ft/lbs, or 360 in/lbs. Check your manual for this info. Also, you should consider buying the Service Manual if you plan to do a bit of your own work.

 

Having personally done at least 30,000 oil changes (10k below, 20k up top), I can tell you it's not necessary. I can also tell you while washers (it's a washer, not a crush ring - there's no crush) are recommended, if you don't have one, chances are you won't even be able to tell the difference.

 

Since most tires are directional, that means 2 tires have to be remounted and rebalanced as part of the rotation process.

 

I would disagree with this. The washers that you get from a Honda or Acura Dealer are made of a soft aluminum and when you tighten them you actually feel them "crush" a little. The next time you change the oil, if you look at the old washer you can see where it is slightly deformed. The soft aluminum takes on the exact shape between the drain bolt and the oil pan.

I don't know why people are saying things like $3 or $5 for the washer. I can buy them all day long from the Acura dealer for $0.32 apiece - you can get them from some dealers that sell over the internet for $0.24 a piece.

PS - and yes the drain bolt is 14mm - so you want a 14 mm washer.

 

Also - I should have added to my previous post - the service manual and I think the owners manual says you should replace the crush washer at each oil change. This is because it does deform slightly when it is used. As long as I can remember - this has been standard practice on all honda automobiles. I guess it is Hondas way of insuring no oil leaks without having to over-torque the drain bolt and risk stripping the threads.

 

I've done a bunch too, but nowhere near 30,000, I'm certain. Yes, I can tighten a drain plug by feel but I chose to tell newbies to use a torque wrench because perhaps they have not developed that sort of feel. Better to play is safe when starting out and I still use a torque wrench because the welfare of my car far exceeds any momentary convenience I might think would exist by setting and using a torque wrench.

 

^i learned the value of properly torqued bolts way too late in life - many stripped and broken bolts along the way.

Every factory washer for a fluid plug I've come across on my 06 has 2 types of metal fused together and is definitely designed to crush.

While we're on this subject, does the rough side of these washers go towards the case and the smooth, rounded side against the bolt face?

 

You can always try this:

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/ez-drain-704203/

 

Here's a wierd one. The crush washer wouldn't come off the drain plug the first oil change I did on this car. Acted as if it's one of those built-in bolt-washers.

 

I always put the smooth (machined) side of the washer towards the pan.

 

It's always the best idea to have the proper tools for the job, but one shouldn't be afraid to do it without it. Common sense and feel goes a long way with cars. For example - I've never used a torque wrench to put wheels on. I don't have any fears about my wheels coming off or not being able to get the lugs off because I have a feel for what tightness they should have. Perhaps I am aided by my experience.

You could easily have an aftermarket plug.