Ok, I have an 06 TL that is obviously a manual. When I approach a stop light or something where I push the clutch in and hold it for awhile, sometimes it will not allow me to put it into a new gear, then stays loose. Bear with me, this is hard to explain. When it is in gear, it does not slip at all, so it isn't the clutch disks. Say that when the clutch is pressed in, it is "open". It feels like it slowly closes even though it is still pressed in so when I try to push the gear out from 3rd back to 1st, it won't let me. When it does this, I just put it in neutral and I have to "pump up" the loose pedal to build pressure to open it again. It only does this when I push the clutch in for more than a couple seconds, not during quick normal shifts. Could this be a slave cylinder or something? Is this warrantied under the regular car (not extended) warranty that I still have left? Thanks

 

Sounds like the clutch master cylinder has some internal leakage.

 

yeah this should be covered by regular warranty.

 

Check the fluid level of clutch master cylinder, it is next to the brake master cylinder. Could be either the master cylinder or slave cylinder. If you need to replace the master cylinder or slave you should replace both at the time.

 

there is an issue with the slave cylinder- acura knows
Should be warranty but ask your service MANAGER about it
read your warranty fine print on hydraulics
easy DIY if not

Warning Danger: DO NOT have the clutch pushed in while at stoplights!!!!!-
that puts wear on it like you wont believe, and the TL has a special system so the clutch feels great.... right up to the day it stops working~

Its not a foot rest- use it to disengage the transmission from the engine only when needed
Use BRAKES to slow the car too, not downshift without purpose of being in the right gear for torque off the corner apex

 

Glad you mentioned this. It is a bad thing to keep your foot depressed on the clutch while waiting for a light to change. This puts undue wear on the release bearing. It won't hurt the friction disk, however.

 

Thanks guys! I never stayed on the clutch really long but that is good advice. Thanks, I will call the dealer Monday.

 

Update.....I took it to the dealer and it is the master cylinder leaking. He told me that they always recommend doing the slave cylinder at the same time. He contacted Honda and they did a 50% 50% split which brings the entire cost with labor down to $250 for both. What do you think? I need to see how hard this would be to do it myself. Any ideas?

 

I always do my own work. I enjoy getting to know my vehicles!

 

Shouldn't be too difficult. I believe there are instructions somewhere on this site.

 

Do the slave after taking the check valve out and put the SS clutch hose in. The master is a pain to do since it is tucked behind the fender. The new one requires its "c-clip" to be removed to take the tubing off. The tune at the slave cylinder is a standard flare tubing, as is the SS clutch line. ML