I've been having this issue for a few months now. So far I tried bleeding the clutch system, installing a new OEM slave cylinder, and now installing a new OEM master cylinder. All new fluid in the system at this point, having bled it so many times. I'm still having the exact same issue, though. The clutch pedal is slow to come back up. Here is a video:


Don't mind the pedal covers from the PO.

Any other ideas of what this could be? Could it be the actual clutch itself? Or pressure plate? It's very weird, and very annoying at this point. I've spent ~$200 and several hours screwing with the thing, and still no progress.

 

Tob?

 

It could be the clutch itself or throwout bearing as stvtec suggested but might I ask what process you are using to bleed the clutch? I know the service manual says to pump the clutch but I've had better luck just applying low air pressure to the clutch reservoir.

 

I'm following the service manual to bleed it. Pumping the clutch while blocking the fork with a piece of wood.

The problem started out of nowhere, before I did anything to the clutch system. It has persisted after all the things I tried above, and numerous bleedings, so that makes me think it isn't just air in the system.

Paging "I Hate Cars"...

 

ttt

Clutch doesn't slip at all. Once it is in gear (and the pedal comes up) it feels totally normal and solid.

 

ttt Seriously nobody has any input?

 

Well, you replaced the master and slave cylinders and bled the system so I think we just don't want to tell you what you are already thinking. Unless it's the most bound up clutch pedal pivot ever seen (not) it's got to be on the other end of the system. An that's pretty much the release bearing and pressure plate. Right?

 

Well I'm just wondering if this all adds up to be and issue with the TOB or pressure plate. Like I said, once the car is in gear there is no slipping and it drives completely normal. I'd think if there was a weak/bent/broken finger on the pressure plate it would be slipping. The clutch also seems to let out a bit faster in gear than in neutral. It's the inconsistency that is bothering me. :/

I appreciate your feedback.

 

If you take each gear to redline does your clutch pedal movement get more gummed up or stick to the floor? that is what I am encountering and from what I have read here on the forum that is a worn pressure plate...clutch grabs great but makes it annoying to drive due to the engagement point changing constantly.

 

Yeah it is worse at higher RPM, and I've also noticed that its better when the car is cold. Guess it is the pressure plate. Curses! Thanks for your input man.

 

i'm having the same issue...any luck getting it fixed?

 

I have changed Complete clutch kit with xlr8 and I have done the em2 mc and the check valve delete on a luk sc. The clutch was pneumatic bled as well as bech bled and then went back and gravity bled it and I am still getting the seepage to the floor if I hold the clutch to Long as if there is air I also did the wood between the fork while bleeding and still the same. Has anyone figured this out? If I pump the clutch a few times it will shift like normal then start again and get stuck in gear. The clutch, flywheel and bearings are perfect checked multiple times so I'm not understanding what's going on
Quote

 

Yeah, most likely the pressure plate has lost the ability to clamp down under duress.

 

^that's exactly the case for me...
Once my shop changed the clutch, I had no more sticky clutch pedal...

they let me have my old Pressure Plate, and it was scored by heat pretty badly

 

it may be "sticky" but it's not dead or useless.
When the pedal becomes sticky, push it in normally but release point is much more narrow and direct. I even find it useful at 4th-6th when you don't need to hold the clutch in that long between changes.