Hey guys. Got a 2005 SSM 6MT. Clutchmasters stage 3 is scaring me. Over the past 4-6 weeks it has gone from tons of bite (maybe too much) to the point where if I'm cruising and give even just enough gas to pass someone, the RPM's fly up freely and the car doesn't accelerate. Somethings obviously slipping. I hope to God the clutch isn't fried. I asked the previous owner and he said no way it's fried already, and told me about some adjustment that should be an easy fix, but my mechanic says he thinks its a hydralic clutch and there are no adjustments, if its slipping, its going out. If thats the case its almost gone, because it's almost undrivable when it's cold. From a dead stop can be hard not to stall, impossible to get going immediately, though first and second go pretty smoothly after that, but 3rd and 4th it starts to slip. At 80 in 6th, anything above feathering and you go no where. Bought the car 3 months ago and was told it was tip top, hoping I wasn't sold a $1500 problem. Any ideas?

 

It's your best bet to get an OEM clutch put in. The CM clutch known to fail. Every single time. Sorry about your situation.

 

If you go to the clutchmaster's website, you'll notice there is no clutch for the 3G TL. Who knows what you've got in there...

 

Good luck

 

I did notice that. Had to select CL 3.2 to go further. I assumed same engine, no problem. Not sure what I'm gonna do if its the clutch. I can't see having to spend that kind of money so soon after buying a car that was "fine."

 

i feel your pain 40k on original OEM clutch still running strong

 

I'm at 71,500 on my '04 manual and it will still break traction in third gear. I would expect at least 200,000 miles from it.

 

The main problem is that the 3G TL clutch and the CL clutch are totally different. The 3G uses a dual mass flywheel, a solid hub disc, and a self adjusting pressure plate. I would think there would be some trouble trying to change all that stuff out for standard style clutch...

 

My thoughts as well.

 

What a confusing mess the clutch is. I've been trying to figure this out for a couple months now but as 94eg points out, unless there is a wholesale solution, changing the disc/pp to aftermarket without changing the fw is not going to work.
I've read that the 7th gen V6 accord uses the same engine/drivetrain as the 3G TL 6MT, but even with that, I don't see any aftermarket flywheel from anyone like Comptech or Clutchmasters.
Good Luck

 

Well the late model CL clutch setup from Clutchmasters includes the Flywheel (according to their website) as does the Comptech CL Type S one. This is why they cost over $1K. Of course that doesn't mean they will simply bolt right into the TL. Maybe they do, I don't know. This is why I always ask about it, but nobody ever responds. I know Team Honda Research used the Comptech unit on their 3G TL enduro racer, but they stated it required some modification to make it work. I never found the details...

To the OP: Yes a hydraulic clutch system has an adjustment. It needs to be made at the pedal though. You can adjust the point at which the pedal starts to build hydraulic pressure, and the overall pedal stroke. With these two adjustments, all sorts of things are possible. It's all laid out any honda shop manual.

I would definitely mess w/ this before pulling out the transmission. It just sounds like your mechanic doesn't know what he's talking about...

 

I've asked too and it all seems very secretive. I'm still not sure what I'll do but if the kit replaces the FW, PP and Disc, there really shouldn't be a reason for it to fail unless it's adjusted wrong or can't be adjusted correctly. It seems like people ask really crazy questions like they are noobs and then in other threads speak like experts. Haven't figured that out yet.

The one thing to point out with the adjustment is that there is mention that you can damage your master cylinder (talking clutch!) if there is constant pressure being applied to the slave with the pedal all the way out. Again, this is all from reading, not from personal experience.

I am sure I will be there eventually and hope this is all figured out by then.

Good luck.

 

Last owner said he told clutchmaster he needed a stage 3 for a TL and they sent him this. It's a whole kit so I'm assuming it was fully compatible. I'm looking into the pedal adjustment to see if hopefully that's the problem, the cold weather seems to indicate that. As far as being a noob (if you're referring to me KN), maybe some of us are noobs about precision adjustable parts such as a clutch, and leave that work to others, but tackle other problems whole heartedly, as they wouldn't be life-threatening if done wrong...

 

Sorry, that came out all wrong. I meant to say people ask crazy questions then in other threads come out with statements like they know what they're talking about.

Didn't mean to imply that your question was crazy...my apologies.

I am just looking for a straight answer on the replacement clutches. I definitely want to dump the dual mass FW and SAC.

So did the CL clutch come with a one piece FW along with the PP and disc?

 

Man, your guess is as good as mine. All I know is if I have to replace I'm going back OEM.

 

Didn't understand that you didn't install it. Oh well, the mystery for me continues. Good Luck

 

Ok. After hours of reading about other peoples' tales of clutch woe, I'm on the brink of losing my faith in Honda reliability. Is there no way to feel assured that you can put a clutch in this car and have it actually work? Anyway, I've been to half a dozen honda/acura techs in the area, and none can replace the clutch without the disc compression tool, and none want to buy it just for this job. Have one ex-acura tech who says he will do it if I find the parts. That search has been fruitless so far, as all I can find is replacement parts from names I've never heard of, and apparently that's a huge no no. WHERE can I buy the whole oem clutch kit, and oem flywheel? I hope the dealer's not the only solution, they started licking their lips when I went in there...

 

Good luck and smack that Vulcan on his ass next time around that hill.

 

I have 105k on my 04 and it works perfect. My guess if the only reson these clutches " Burn Out" is driver induced wear. The Tl is not a race car and if you treat it like one you definatley are going to get clutches and other parts worn much quicker ...

 

I agree. I can only hope if I ever get a stock clutch in this car I'll have the same luck from it. I bought this car several months ago, and since then I have never even remotely raced it, never even chirped the tires, not ONCE. Though I might have done some damage through getting used to the solid flywheel, I don't think it's all operater error. Once again, anyone who knows where OEM clutch kits and flywheels are available PLEASE let me know.

 

CLUTCHES TYPICALLY DON'T GO UNLESS THEY'RE IMPROPERLY DRIVEN !

If the previous owner put in a Clutchmaster, let alone had to replace a clutch at all, that tells me this car was likely DRIVEN HARD. What else is fucked up with this vehicle that you may not know about?

If you do really need a clutch, I would bite the bullet and only go with OEM components.

Good luck PinSpree!
Something tells me you're gonna need it.
.
.

 

PinSpree: check out www.acuraoemparts.com for the OEM clutch, or any OEM parts for that matter. They are at pretty reasonable prices too. Good luck.

 

PinSpree,

use this website ---> http://acura.bernardiparts.com/ i believe this is the cheapest online OEM acura parts website. I ordered my OEM flywheel and clutch from there and saved quite a bit of money by going with them. Find a good installer and ur good! Best of Luck!

 

Much thanks man. I had already ordered the clutch kit, release bearing and flywheel from the dealer, but after I saw your post they I was able to cancel the order and save $500 through delray. Saved my ass!

 

That's a nice chunk of change to save! Glad you were able to cancel that order and save some cash.