2005 TL 184,000 miles.
6sp MT

I replaced the timing belt, water pump and crank position sensor with one made by Standard (supposedly good brand) All was good for one day. The next day I drove it and the check engine light was on as well as VSA light . I pulled codes and it gave me P0389 Crank shaft position sensor B circuit intermittent. What would cause the code? The engine is not misbehaving it drives normally. I've searched the site, other people have had this issue but I didn't find anyone posted a solution. Has anyone fixed this before?

Cristian: Thanks Acura Fam

 

perhaps something is not plugged in?
recheck your work!

perhaps the crank position sensor (Standard) is suspect?

 

out of curiosity- why did you replaced the sensor?

the bolt(s) that hold it were "torqued" (not left loose and you said "click" out loud when you felt they were tight enough)?

the sensor connector clicked in securely and none of the wires backed out?

no chance of any damage to the reluctor teeth on the crank pulley? or woodruff key?

you pulled the pin out of the auto-tensioner?

 

Normally that would be instinctual for me to think that, however I just want to know if there is some tech step I missed or didn't consider. Like a relearning on the system is required etc etc..

 

@ Cammark
The sensor was replaced because they could potentially go bad after 200K miles. The labor was completed buy a mechanic who said he's never seen this issue before and would have to research it for a firmer direction in proper diagnosis before taking everything apart again or changing anything. I'm doing my own independent research so we can cover more ground. So far I've learned quite a few people have had this exact problem after changing the timing belt. Now I'm trying to find out what fixed it. I could just have the sensor replaced to OEM but what if that's not the fix? That's kinda where I'm at right now. I want to be sure of the best possible solution.

 

verify timing marks and take the crank sensor and clean off contacts on wire side and on the sensor side too. There's been 1 issue posted by south main auto youtube channel where the aftermarket belt teeth were slightly off and caused misfires and other CEL's.

 

he might have just left it unplugged or worse, ripped off the wire when installing. If you took it to a mechanic, obviously take it back to him and have him diagnose and fix it.

 

"Crankshaft position (CKP) sensor B consists of a rotor and a semiconductor that detects rotor position. When the engine starts, the rotor turns and the magnetic flux in the semiconductor changes. The changes of magnetic flux are converted into pulsing signals to the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM). CKP sensor B detects injection/ignition timing for each cylinder and engine speed. If an abnormal amount of pulsing signals are detected from CKP sensor B, a malfunction is detected and a DTC is stored."

Switch out to a different crank shaft position sensor. Do a CKP relearn (2nd gear go up to 2500 rpm then coast to 1000 rpm). Then see your results.

 

Take it back to the shop and have them make it right. You paid for a service. Do not let them throw parts at it on your dime.

Anyway, here's a relevant video.

 

Who told you the crank position sensor would go bad after 200k miles?!

There is a guy on driveaccord.net with a 06 6-speed Accord coupe V6 with 690k miles, on the ORIGINAL crank position sensor. I have 320k miles on my original one. The only reason that sensor would go bad is if oil pump leak soaks all over the sensor since it sits behind protected lower timing cover.

I suggest you install back the original OEM sensor.

 

In reality that crank sensor can go bad without oil getting on it. I'm not saying his was and if it were me i'm not changing mine until it goes bad. Some sensors i'll change if they're not bad but not that one.

 

Good note that is an option for me

 

Hey it could be worse. when my buddy and I did my oil pump reseal and TB service he forgot to put the second bolt in on the tensioner! talk about rigging up some ways to get that tensioner off, the piston back in, and then getting it reinstalled without removing everything. The hardest part was getting my wire that held the tensioner in to actually pull out and stop snapping on me. 40k miles later and shes still doing good though. I hope your mechanic can get it fixed, anything to do with the timing is scary to me

 

UPDATE: So the actually issue, ended up being the wiring harness..... On the outside it looked ok and normal, but terminal six had a small loose disconnection.. Had it replaced with an OEM harness. Problem gone. Hey guys, thank you all for getting involved and giving me some good ideas, you rock! Love being a member of acurazine. Now I'm going to do a J37 intake manifold swap... wish me luck.

 

hey bro i’m having this same issue and i’m wondering where to get the harness at. please get back to me asap. do i get an entire engine wiring harness or just the crank sensor wire or a new cam sensor wire cause the last owner did say he broke the cam sensor wire and replaced wire by splicing.

 

@Jeanhs there should be a crank sensor wire, I don't think you have to get an engine wire kit. Google search Acura OEM parts I believe the first sight that pops up which is probably called Acura OEM something like that I would order a new crank sensor wire from there. If you suspect anything is wrong with the crank sensor module itself as well I would go ahead and replace that too Mitsubishi makes a good one even though it's for an Acura.. OEM would cost close to 500 bucks for that one part. I hope this helps.

 

i’m doing a whole bunch of research on this and i’m stumped. that last owner said the cam shaft wire broke in half “somehow” and he replaced it by splicing it and getting a new cam sensor and the cam code went away but the crank code came up p0389. is that short in the cam wire causing the crank sensor to read incorrectly or is it that one crank sensor wire harness that plugs into the crank sensor that could be broken or shorted as well?

so entire harness(for “fixed” cam sensor wire?

single crank sensor wire harness?

 

@Jeanhs I would just go with a single cam sensor wire. Your issue could be one of two things it could be a broken wire, these things overheat next to the engine they dry crack brittle and finally snap. But now you got a direct check engine light for the sensor itself keep this in mind. If the sensor is broken it would need to be replaced along with whatever wiring harness is in that car, now that thing sounds like trouble waiting to happen. Not to mention it's not easy to get to there's a good amount of labor involved so you want to do as much as you possibly can while you're in there unless you don't mind redoing the labor again. Lastly if the sensor itself is bad you already know it's expensive to go OEM. My highest recommendation would be to replace both. The next best recommendation would be to go after that wire first because it's not common for those sensors to go bad before the life of the entire car is up. If you go with an aftermarket sensor which is cheaper don't do "Standard" ( brand name of sensor) go with Mitsubishi instead.

 

i already replaced my crank sensor with one from auto zone and the car surprisingly feels smoother. but cel is still there. where do i find this camshaft wire? i found a crank wire. ik it’s a pain and i want to eliminate going back down there multiple times. def not paying anyone to do this

 

You got a crank sensor from AutoZone? Okay that sensor could be giving you an issue as well so keep that in mind maybe maybe not. Here's what I would do, I would call your Acura dealership nearby or the closest one to you. Ask to speak with parts, ( provide vin#) when the parts guy on the phone tell him exactly what you're looking for which in this case is the wire that the crank sensor plugs into. Then ask him what the part number for that wire is ( I do not know I it)
. Once you have the part number you no longer have to worry about selecting the wrong sensor wire. Go to Acura OEM parts.com put your part number in there and see what comes up and how much . Anything I want OEM I order from them they are legit and not as expensive as the dealership usually about half the price you pay at the dealership for that same part. If it's still too expensive just use the part number to search on eBay for a cheaper deal if you can. Thats all 🤠