Cause of these Engine Codes

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Old Oct 19, 2015 | 03:21 PM
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Cause of these Engine Codes

I ran a code on my vehicle and these issues came up.


61-1 Battery Voltage Malfunction
83-1 Engine Control Module (ECM)/ Powertrain Control Module (ACM) Relation Malfunction
86-1 Controller Area Network Relation Malfunction

Could these be an open circuit causing a battery drain?

Thanks.
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Old Oct 19, 2015 | 03:22 PM
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how old is your battery? replace it.
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Old Oct 19, 2015 | 05:09 PM
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Its a few months old
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Old Oct 19, 2015 | 08:41 PM
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Check your Bluetooth to see if it's working, this is a common drain.


Originally Posted by CenturionTL
I ran a code on my vehicle and these issues came up.


61-1 Battery Voltage Malfunction
83-1 Engine Control Module (ECM)/ Powertrain Control Module (ACM) Relation Malfunction
86-1 Controller Area Network Relation Malfunction

Could these be an open circuit causing a battery drain?

Thanks.
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 12:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Hi speed
Check your Bluetooth to see if it's working, this is a common drain.
Thanks. HFL was not working. I just replaced it. I have a 05 TL - Non Navi and I replaced it with an HFL from an 04 TL with Navi.

It works, would this cause issues since its from a TL with Navi and mine does not have Navi?
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 12:47 AM
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My battery died while I was replacing the HFL unit. I had the car on in accessory position without engine running for approx. 30 minutes. --- Is something else the problem, or do I have a failing battery as 30 minutes for the battery to completely drain is not normal.

My alternator went out about 2 months ago, I replaced it. My vehicle completely shut off while it was running. Could that also have damaged the battery, for it to not hold its charge?

I went today to have my battery replaced under warranty at an interstate battery dealer and they refused to stating my battery tested good.

In the morning I had a little problem starting my vehicle, I drove my vehicle the previous day. (clearly sounded like the battery), went to the dealer (took 30 minutes to get there) and it tested normal.
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 01:29 AM
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Navi vs non-navi should have no bearing on this problem. Why don't you try disconnecting the HFL and keep it like that for a few days, and see if that solves your problem. If it doesn't, then if you can get the alternator out, you could take it out and have THAT tested.
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by jimmyfu
Navi vs non-navi should have no bearing on this problem. Why don't you try disconnecting the HFL and keep it like that for a few days, and see if that solves your problem. If it doesn't, then if you can get the alternator out, you could take it out and have THAT tested.
I replaced the alternator 2 months ago.
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 11:43 AM
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trickle charger and charge the battery full


it could "test good" but just be low
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 11:57 AM
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Could the HFL be causing the engine codes?
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 11:59 AM
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HFL > draining battery = drained battery. drained battery > engine codes


so by transitive property, yes. trickle charger is cheap potential fix)
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by thoiboi
HFL > draining battery = drained battery. drained battery > engine codes


so by transitive property, yes. trickle charger is cheap potential fix)
this is a trickle charger?




Battery Tender Plus 021-0128 12V Battery Charger - Walmart.com
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 12:45 PM
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Yeah that's the one I use too.
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by thoiboi
Yeah that's the one I use too.
How long did it take to 100% charge your battery?
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 08:08 PM
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I tested my vehicle for battery drain. When it is off It is pulling

0.160A
00.95 mA

Is this normal for a 3GTL?
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 08:51 PM
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I removed the HFL I am getting

0.056A or 56mA

From researching 50 mA is the most the vehicle should draw when shut off.

Ignore the previous 00.95mA
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Old Oct 21, 2015 | 07:22 AM
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to be honest, i'm not sure how long, i left it there because i was driving the car a month at a time.


Okay, so the HFL was definitely the culprit causing a draw on your battery to the point it died.

1. HFL removed: check
2: charge battery
3. put battery back in car
4. drive car and smile
5. if you want a new HFL, you'll have to buy one and install in reverse. It's still susceptible to failure so most people just leave it out
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Old Oct 21, 2015 | 07:51 PM
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I'm still getting "BOOTING" when I go to HFL in my MID even though I removed it.

Any cause for concern, or is this normal?

Is there a fuse to pull that powers the HFL only?
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Old Oct 22, 2015 | 07:34 AM
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no fuse that powers only HFL. if that were the case, people would have just pulled that fuse rather than go through the hassle of unplugging it


why would you go to HFL in your MID if you know it's removed LEAVE IT ALONE


what did you expect was going to happen
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Old Oct 22, 2015 | 12:50 PM
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This thread.

https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...ed-hfl-926059/

I am pulling 54-57mA the max of any vehicle (50 mA) when shut off and the mod here said TL should only pull 20-30 mA.

Since I replaced my HFL with a working one it was still drawing power, so I am thinking there is a problem with my wiring.
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Old Oct 22, 2015 | 01:14 PM
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Wait wait wait... Up above you said you removed the HFL. Now you're saying you replaced it.. Which is it? Have you tried unplugging the HFL testing draw and then test again after plugging it back in?
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Old Oct 22, 2015 | 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by thoiboi
Wait wait wait... Up above you said you removed the HFL. Now you're saying you replaced it.. Which is it? Have you tried unplugging the HFL testing draw and then test again after plugging it back in?
I removed the defective HFL, and installed a working replacement. I tested the draw with the replacement and it was 160mA.

I then removed the replacement HFL, and with out any HFL installed it is drawing 54-57mA.
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Old Oct 22, 2015 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by CenturionTL
I removed the defective HFL, and installed a working replacement. I tested the draw with the replacement and it was 160mA.

I then removed the replacement HFL, and with out any HFL installed it is drawing 54-57mA.
Ahah thanks for clarifying... So you have some parisitic draw somewhere. Best way to diagnose is to pull fuses one by one and see if it drops. Then you know at least which circuit is the draw coming from and can start diagnosing from there.


During diagnostic, I would keep the HFL off .
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Old Oct 23, 2015 | 10:31 PM
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There was an iSimple installed to my radio. I removed that I am now pulling 24-28mA.

Originally Posted by csmeance

As far as figuring out the parasitic draw, you have a somewhat easy way to do this.

Hook up a multimeter (see how here)
The meter should be reading around 20-30 Miliamps. If it's reading higher then you have confirmed a parasitic draw. To determine what component/system is drawing the power is where the challenge can arise.
According to this thread, I am within range now.

https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...ed-hfl-926059/
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Old Oct 24, 2015 | 04:36 PM
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I put a new battery in.

I'm still getting these codes.


61-1 Battery Voltage Malfunction
83-1 Engine Control Module (ECM)/ Powertrain Control Module (ACM) Relation Malfunction
86-1 Controller Area Network Relation Malfunction
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Old Jun 6, 2023 | 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by CenturionTL
I put a new battery in.

I'm still getting these codes.


61-1 Battery Voltage Malfunction
83-1 Engine Control Module (ECM)/ Powertrain Control Module (ACM) Relation Malfunction
86-1 Controller Area Network Relation Malfunction
did you ever figure this out I have the same thing.
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