Cause of these Engine Codes
#1
Cause of these Engine Codes
I ran a code on my vehicle and these issues came up.
61-1 Battery Voltage Malfunction
83-1 Engine Control Module (ECM)/ Powertrain Control Module (ACM) Relation Malfunction
86-1 Controller Area Network Relation Malfunction
Could these be an open circuit causing a battery drain?
Thanks.
61-1 Battery Voltage Malfunction
83-1 Engine Control Module (ECM)/ Powertrain Control Module (ACM) Relation Malfunction
86-1 Controller Area Network Relation Malfunction
Could these be an open circuit causing a battery drain?
Thanks.
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CenturionTL (10-20-2015)
#4
Check your Bluetooth to see if it's working, this is a common drain.
I ran a code on my vehicle and these issues came up.
61-1 Battery Voltage Malfunction
83-1 Engine Control Module (ECM)/ Powertrain Control Module (ACM) Relation Malfunction
86-1 Controller Area Network Relation Malfunction
Could these be an open circuit causing a battery drain?
Thanks.
61-1 Battery Voltage Malfunction
83-1 Engine Control Module (ECM)/ Powertrain Control Module (ACM) Relation Malfunction
86-1 Controller Area Network Relation Malfunction
Could these be an open circuit causing a battery drain?
Thanks.
The following users liked this post:
CenturionTL (10-20-2015)
#5
Thanks. HFL was not working. I just replaced it. I have a 05 TL - Non Navi and I replaced it with an HFL from an 04 TL with Navi.
It works, would this cause issues since its from a TL with Navi and mine does not have Navi?
It works, would this cause issues since its from a TL with Navi and mine does not have Navi?
#6
My battery died while I was replacing the HFL unit. I had the car on in accessory position without engine running for approx. 30 minutes. --- Is something else the problem, or do I have a failing battery as 30 minutes for the battery to completely drain is not normal.
My alternator went out about 2 months ago, I replaced it. My vehicle completely shut off while it was running. Could that also have damaged the battery, for it to not hold its charge?
I went today to have my battery replaced under warranty at an interstate battery dealer and they refused to stating my battery tested good.
In the morning I had a little problem starting my vehicle, I drove my vehicle the previous day. (clearly sounded like the battery), went to the dealer (took 30 minutes to get there) and it tested normal.
My alternator went out about 2 months ago, I replaced it. My vehicle completely shut off while it was running. Could that also have damaged the battery, for it to not hold its charge?
I went today to have my battery replaced under warranty at an interstate battery dealer and they refused to stating my battery tested good.
In the morning I had a little problem starting my vehicle, I drove my vehicle the previous day. (clearly sounded like the battery), went to the dealer (took 30 minutes to get there) and it tested normal.
#7
Navi vs non-navi should have no bearing on this problem. Why don't you try disconnecting the HFL and keep it like that for a few days, and see if that solves your problem. If it doesn't, then if you can get the alternator out, you could take it out and have THAT tested.
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CenturionTL (10-20-2015)
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#8
I replaced the alternator 2 months ago.
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CenturionTL (10-20-2015)
#12
#17
to be honest, i'm not sure how long, i left it there because i was driving the car a month at a time.
Okay, so the HFL was definitely the culprit causing a draw on your battery to the point it died.
1. HFL removed: check
2: charge battery
3. put battery back in car
4. drive car and smile
5. if you want a new HFL, you'll have to buy one and install in reverse. It's still susceptible to failure so most people just leave it out
Okay, so the HFL was definitely the culprit causing a draw on your battery to the point it died.
1. HFL removed: check
2: charge battery
3. put battery back in car
4. drive car and smile
5. if you want a new HFL, you'll have to buy one and install in reverse. It's still susceptible to failure so most people just leave it out
#19
no fuse that powers only HFL. if that were the case, people would have just pulled that fuse rather than go through the hassle of unplugging it
why would you go to HFL in your MID if you know it's removed LEAVE IT ALONE
what did you expect was going to happen
why would you go to HFL in your MID if you know it's removed LEAVE IT ALONE
what did you expect was going to happen
#20
This thread.
https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...ed-hfl-926059/
I am pulling 54-57mA the max of any vehicle (50 mA) when shut off and the mod here said TL should only pull 20-30 mA.
Since I replaced my HFL with a working one it was still drawing power, so I am thinking there is a problem with my wiring.
https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...ed-hfl-926059/
I am pulling 54-57mA the max of any vehicle (50 mA) when shut off and the mod here said TL should only pull 20-30 mA.
Since I replaced my HFL with a working one it was still drawing power, so I am thinking there is a problem with my wiring.
#21
Wait wait wait... Up above you said you removed the HFL. Now you're saying you replaced it.. Which is it? Have you tried unplugging the HFL testing draw and then test again after plugging it back in?
#22
I then removed the replacement HFL, and with out any HFL installed it is drawing 54-57mA.
#23
Originally Posted by CenturionTL
I removed the defective HFL, and installed a working replacement. I tested the draw with the replacement and it was 160mA.
I then removed the replacement HFL, and with out any HFL installed it is drawing 54-57mA.
I then removed the replacement HFL, and with out any HFL installed it is drawing 54-57mA.
During diagnostic, I would keep the HFL off .
#24
There was an iSimple installed to my radio. I removed that I am now pulling 24-28mA.
As far as figuring out the parasitic draw, you have a somewhat easy way to do this.
Hook up a multimeter (see how here)
The meter should be reading around 20-30 Miliamps. If it's reading higher then you have confirmed a parasitic draw. To determine what component/system is drawing the power is where the challenge can arise.
According to this thread, I am within range now.
https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...ed-hfl-926059/
As far as figuring out the parasitic draw, you have a somewhat easy way to do this.
Hook up a multimeter (see how here)
The meter should be reading around 20-30 Miliamps. If it's reading higher then you have confirmed a parasitic draw. To determine what component/system is drawing the power is where the challenge can arise.
https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...ed-hfl-926059/
#25
I put a new battery in.
I'm still getting these codes.
61-1 Battery Voltage Malfunction
83-1 Engine Control Module (ECM)/ Powertrain Control Module (ACM) Relation Malfunction
86-1 Controller Area Network Relation Malfunction
I'm still getting these codes.
61-1 Battery Voltage Malfunction
83-1 Engine Control Module (ECM)/ Powertrain Control Module (ACM) Relation Malfunction
86-1 Controller Area Network Relation Malfunction
#26
did you ever figure this out I have the same thing.
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