I was able to get in the car and turn it on fine from the store. Parked my car in the drive way then got out and tried to locked my doors and I noticed that it didn't lock. I notice that my interior lights did not come on when i opened the door either. I figured it was just a dead battery. I had a friend come over with a portable booster and tried to jump it that way but still no dash lights or signs that there was any battery.

What could be the problem?

Bad alternator? Wiring Connection? or is the portable booster not enough power to start it from completely dead point (btw it indicated on the portable booster that it was fully charge)

Anything suggestion will help! Thanks.

 

Check the battery cable clamps first-- the positive often gets corroded and the negative often loosens on the post.
Then check the cable ends if the clamps aren't the problem.

G/l, and welcome to AZ.

 

Thanks, Ill definitely give that a try.
I don't have any products to clean off any dirt or corrosion. I was told before that hot water could do. This true?

 

Vinegar can, use a water bottle and spray/wipe off excess. Use a toothbrush if you don't have a wire brush handy.

 

Sandpaper works wonder to clean the battery poles and you can roll a small piece inside out to fit in the connectors and spin it around/thread it through a few times to remove grime and corrosion.

 

Check the voltage of the battery and go from there.

 

Hot water will take off some of the white powder formed by the battery acid corrosion, but use some baking soda with a toothbrush as well (unless you have a small wire brush- then use the wire brush).
Like polobunny posted, I'd also suggest using sandpaper or other abrasive to get the clamps and posts clean, then installing the anti-corrosion post pads and coating the posts and clamps with die-electric grease.

That assumes the positive cable hasn't corroded under the sheath, BTW.
If the positive cable is corroded much past the battery clamp, it will have to be replaced.

 

Update:

I just bought a brand new battery and installed it. Still no dash lights or interior lights!! Im thinking it can be one of the fuses? I couldn't see any that were burnt though. Although i couldn't check the IG1 Main off cause it was bolted down and i couldn't get it off the connector so I gave up cause its getting pretty late and I figured id go inside and research some more and try again tomorrow.
Again, keep with suggestions! I will try everything cause this is my only vehicle right now.

 

Did you check the cables for corrosion?

 

Same problem here. I have a 2007 type S and I have been through two batteries in the last six months. If I don't drive my car for a day or two it won't start, everything is completely dead, can't even unlock my car. I took it to the AutoZone this morning after I jumped it and they told me the battery was good. There has to be something draining my battery,

 

what is IG - OP1 AND IG - OP2 on slot 29 and 31?

 

Sounds like hands free / bluetooth drain. Have you disconnected it and see if the battery still drains?

https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...-drain-825641/

 

Like MonkeyTrucker sys, it's most likely the HFL (Bluetooth) module going bad-- there are a number of threads on it, with a couple of longer threads on repairing/replacing the HFL.
You can check the draw with an ammeter or just disconnect the HFL (5 minute job) and see if that fixes the problem.
A new HFL costs @ $220 now(depending on vendor and discounts), and will take less than 10 minutes to replace.

I think those are fuses for the DPMS(Driving Position Memory System)-presets for audio, A/C, mirrors and driver's seat based on which remote is used to unlock the car.

Did you pull the fuses, or were they missing when you opened the panel?

If they were missing when you got the car, I'd start to consider whether it's an MICU/computer issue.

 

I think those are fuses for the DPMS(Driving Position Memory System)-presets for audio, A/C, mirrors and driver's seat based on which remote is used to unlock the car.

Did you pull the fuses, or were they missing when you opened the panel?

If they were missing when you got the car, I'd start to consider whether it's an MICU/computer issue.[/QUOTE]

Yes, they were missing from the start. I should probably put two new fuses in them tomorrow.

 

Update:

Found out that the IG1MAIN (+B) was not getting any power! I ended up wiring a direct connection from the battery to the switch with a fuse in between. I hope this can be left like this temporarily until I can figure out why there was no power to that fuse.









I am assuming the all white powered everything in the vehicle and the white with red stripe was for the power windows (Although, Not sure why I lost the "Automatic" feature on the driver side but still rolls down, I am fine with that)

Now the question is:

Does anyone know why there is no power to the wire that controls the main interior electrical components!?

Thanks everyone for there input.

 

P.S. the holes in the wire + the chunk missing from the sheathing was done by me to put my tester inside and seen if I was getting any current to the wires.

 

it could be that fuse is no good or a fray in the battery wire going to that fuse.
check the battery wiring.

I had the same problem a few months ago and the wires broke off on a butt connector I used. DIdnt find it until I unraveled the loom.

 

yep! it was actually the fuse that was blown. The 120A battery fuse was still connected from looking through the small window on the fuse but if you open it up it was completely blown. From the looks of it, this happened to the previous owner and he soldered the connections back together and not just replaced it!

 

Thanks for everyones input!

 

Glad you found that "DIY" from the previous owner.

 

Now, the questions are why did it blow, and is it related to the pulled fuses for Driver 1 and Driver 2?