nfnsquared

Start at the link below, but also do a search for "battery drain":

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/battery-drain-hfl-module-trouble-shooting-727768/
.
I had my 04 HFL unit replaced per that TSB ( http://www.box.net/shared/ahv7hm987a ) when it was still under warranty.

Also, there is another thread where someone took his HFL apart and replaced a capacitor for $1.50. Do another search for "capacitor" and you should find the thread. The unit itself is over $400 new.

edit: here's the repair thread, starts about the middle of the thread:

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/bluetooth-fails-792642/

akertulis

mine was doing the same thing a little bit and got the battery replaced and i just changed the starter yesterday and ive had no problems with it starting so far.

akertulis

well lost now new starter and new battery car still having trouble starting at first cold and warm

I hate cars

So it was fine for 5 days after replacing the battery and now it's low? Have you had the alternator checked?

nfnsquared

OK, a little confused. First you said the "like brand new" battery tested good. Then you said "battery needed replaced"... What's up with that?

"...at first cold and warm"...Can you elaborate?

When you had the old battery tested (it tested bad and you replaced it), did you also have the charging system tested?

Have you checked for parasitic drain (bad HFL unit not shutting off, 200 mAmp drain)?

If your battery tested good one day and then bad only a few days later, I'd suspect faulty alternator or parasitic drain....

How long has your car sat between the problematic starts?

I assume starter replacement included the solenoid?

New starter or rebuilt. Brand?

Could also be faulty ignition switch.

pohljm

sounds like a starter selenoid to me

akertulis

thats exactly what my car is doing im on the same page as you are

akertulis

the car sometimes starts in the morning but sometimes it takes me like 5 tries to get it to fire up it just clicks sometimes, itll start then turn off quick as well, ive replaced the battery and the starter (brand new, from autozone) i am going to get the alternator checked today and i orderd the HFL capaciter for $1.12 to have replaced incase that is what it is. Also it does it even when i shut the car off and the try to start it maybe a half hr later. Doesnt the starter solenoid come on the new starter when bought?

akertulis

just got alternator checked, its cranking at 10 volts and i believe it is supposed to be cranking at 12 volts so i have a drainage somewhere battery and alternator checked out good. Any ideas, HFL?

I hate cars

What do you mean by this? Alternator should put out 14v. That will show that it's working but you need to put it under load to measure it's output potential.

With the car off for an hour you need to measure current draw at the battery and compare against factory spec to see if there is too much residual drain.

Jesstzn

Ya what he said .... The battery / starting system on our cars is 12V but the eletrical system is 13.8V and the alternator under no load should put out at least that much or more. If its not then its not putting out enough to run the systems and charge the battery so the system will be pulling from the battery and running it down.

When you had it checked .. how did they do it?

akertulis

i had it tested at autozone they checked with car off then with car on idleing and with car running and idleing also with high beams and blower on battery tested at 12.56volts measured at 670 rated 600 temp at 83degress, cranking at normail with 10.99 volt 183.5A amps 843mS, no load at 14.27V w/ 4.0A and load at 14.07V w/ 2.4A and drain test at 0.93A

rachel<3herTL

A bad alternator can cause the battery to drain till its dead. My suggestion would be to have the alternator and battery checked. I would personally check the alternator first, then if that is the problem, its causing your battery to die. Normally batteries have warranties, hopefully yours is in the year range. You can also fix the alternator yourself, its not too hard. I think there is a post somewhere on the website on how to fix it yourself, but that's up to you. Make sure you fix the alternator before you get a new battery or the dying will continue to happen from the alternator draining it. Hope this somewhat helps.

I hate cars

The drain test they did is invalid because it can take 30 minutes for all of the TL's systems to shut down after you take the key out of the ignition. .93a will easily drain the battery completely dead overnight but I doubt they waited at least 30 minutes to perform the test.

Voltage should stay at 14v no matter what you have running..

I'm not meaning to be rude but it's really hard to read your posts without punctuation and sentences. I'm not really sure what the rest of that means.

akertulis

well after all the different things trying to do.....it turned out to be the HFL just replaced and it only cost $1.12

PlatinumAdonis

Hey people, I just thought I would update you guys on what happened with my battery issue.......

For me, the positive battery cable had to be replaced. It turns out that the guy who had the car before me replaced the positive connector terminal with an after market piece but didn't do a good job of taping up the end of the cable. When I first looked at the battery I noticed some corrosion around the positive terminal and cleaned it off. What I didn't realize was that the corrosion actually went all the way down the cable, the entire cable had been corroded. I had to cut away some of the plastic that wrapped the cable to see that the corrosion had continued down the cable. So I just replaced the cable and my TL is back to starting up like a champ!

I got the cable from an Acura dealership for about $49.00. Simple fix!

Thanks for the suggestions!

sirlanche

08 TL type s ..... 24k and im having the same issues. took to dealership and the found nothing. even said they found no codes regiestering to the computer either. im frustrated with this!

AdamsTL

I myself have this issue with the starting and clicking noises. So stressful, when it first started to happen I replaced the battery immediately because I thought it was a dead cell, ok problem solved.....for a month and a half and now the same problem again. I believe the culprit is the starter simply because the battery is just to new. Will also be cleaning the terminal connectors with a wire brush. Sometimes those auto parts store test are BS(some, not all).

Jesstzn

This could be totally wrong ... a clicking starter usually means it isn't being supplied enough voltage to have the solenoid engage it. Most cases its a grounding issue. Check & clean both cables & contact areas and inspect the cables right down to looking at the negative cable where it attaches to the block / chasis.