gunmetalTL

When I turn the keys, I hear a bunch of clicking sounds, but the car does not turn on. I'm calling the cab for a boost, but I've been calling them almost everyday for boosts now. Does someone know if I should change the battery or alternator?

amazo

You might need to change both after awhile of boosting. The alternator can do so much of charging to battery for a period of time. I would test the battery first, if its completely dead I would replace it. Also, I would test the alternator, just in case the alternator is fired too.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

you can go to an auto parts store like autozone and get both tested for free.

nfnsquared

More than likely, it's just the battery. How old is the battery? What year TL? If it's the OEM battery, it may still be under warranty (I believe it's full replacement if less than 36 months, prorated after that, check your warranty booklet that came with the car or call your dealer). If the batter is still under warranty, I'd assume your local Acura dealer would check both the charging system and the battery for free.

Also, check your connections. Don't just look at them: loosen them, clean them, retighten them. You'd be surprised how many times the problem is simply loose battery cables.

I hate cars

Good advice. And if that doesn't work, there's a known issue with the HFL and with the temp display that will drain the battery.

warren4066

and if it is the battery....after you change out battery you will need to place radio code in. call your local dealership for code or look in your manual to see if you already have the little card with radio code on it

VQPower37

sounds like its mostly ur battery ... next time u get it jumped, take it to the a local autoshop, so they can test ur battery. if the battery is bad, you can buy a new one right there and install it

flipphinoi

I agree with everyone... probably just your battery. Take it to autozone or advance and have it tested. if it fails, just buy a new one

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

Another factor could be your starter.

Jesstzn

Even if they look clean .. clean them.

akertulis

mine is doing the same....could it be the fuel pump?

csmeance

If you are hearing a clicking sound but the car isn't starting up, it's the battery. IF the car is cranking but refuses to turn over, it could be the fuel pump or the immoblizer system (cuts off fuel when wrong key used). Easiest way to see the problem is get your battery checked out at an autoparts store.

As well, try turning the key to the stall position, wait for the fuel needle to stablize, then try starting the car. This pressurizes the fuel pump so you can see if this resolves the issue.

akertulis

so it sounds like it mite just be my battery then.....i will get that checked out today, i saw on the internet it could be spark plugs to and i did that and let me say those werent the easiest to change out

Jesstzn

Plugs won't make your car "not" start.

It might be just the cables/terminals not the battery ... any good store will sell you a battery even if its just the cable connection points.

akertulis

yea its def not the battery just got it tested and its like brand new still so thats ruled out

Jesstzn

Did they check the terminals too? Clean them?

akertulis

yea i just did that im going to let it sit till i leave work and see how it does.....

akertulis

should they be totally clean, theres some grease on them but i hear that helps out?

akertulis

yup still not starting rite up sometimes it doesnt even turn over, doesnt make any noise?

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

Did anyone read my post above?

Starter could have gone bad.

It's been happening a lot (I was a victim myself).

csmeance

If the starter had gone bad, the car wouldn't be making a rapid clicking noise.

jokerman826

You have to be careful when they check the battery. When i took my old battery in, they charged it up and they tested it right away. When they did that, it showed that it was perfectly fine. They did that about 30 minutes before i showed back up. I told them to do it again, and guess what, it failed. The battery had lost its charge in less than 30 minutes, so I go a new upgraded one for $30. (got to love full replacement warranties)

Make sure you remove it from the car and take it there some other way. Let it sit there for a while, then go back and see what they say, you probably have the same problem as me. I had a bad cell in my battery, thats why it would keep draining within 20 minutes.

Also remember, even if you have a dead battery you can drive your car all day. Your alternator runs the car while it is on.

Check to see how long your car will sit before you are unable to start it, then do everything as i said earlier.

I hate cars

This thread is turning into a cluster f**k.

It's either too much drain when the car is off, the battery, the wiring, or the starter.

It's not the starter because the booster will start it.

If it's the wiring it has to be right at the battery since the booster will start it.

A very simple key off engine off current draw test still needs to be done.

A very simple alternator output test still needs to be done.

A proper load test under the right conditions still needs to be done to the battery.

This is simple stuff guys.

If the battery is bad, be careful of driving it on the alternator as the battery won't be able to "clean up" the alternator voltage as well and you can damage electronics.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

why not just take it to the damn auto parts store and have the battery and alternator checked out for free?

has that been said yet?

nfnsquared

Yes, we have two different posters with a problem. It looks like the second poster has created his own thread.

We need the OP to post back results of the testing that was recommended.

acuradfigueroa117

what is the HFL?
I am having problems as well. went autozone, gotta new batt and checked alt. Got home, cleaned terminals. went back out in an hour and car wont start at all.

akertulis

Well got a new battery last nite and it def took care of the 5 try car start up and alot smoother but it still wont turn over the first try it takes the second try but still alot better than it did before battery change out. Wonder why still on the second try though, any ideas?

I hate cars

It won't turn over on the first try? You realize "turning over" is the engine cranking on the starter? Do you mean it doesn't fire up on the first try? Usually if it takes several attempts the fuel system is the first culprit. Specifically not building fuel pressure when you turn the key on. So even if you let it crank over for 5 seconds it still won't start?

akertulis

well before i replaced the battery yesterday it would take about 5 attempts to get the engine to fire up it wouldnt make any noise wouldnt even try to turn over now with the new battery the first try it doesnt even try to turn over just clicks then i do it again and fires rite up.

nfnsquared

starter contacts, but could also be starter solenoid or loose connection.

What year is your car? If it's 04 or 05, unfortunately those starters are starting to die. You can replace it or rebuild it if you have the mechanical inclination.

akertulis

its an 04

TLDude876

iTrader: (7)

Check the #30 fuse in the fusebox. I think it is HCC or something like that. I had that problem recently where my nav and everything went out and my car wouldnt start. The fuse was blown and I replaced it and the car started.

nfnsquared

Then I'd lean toward the starter contacts/brushes. They've been going out on 04 TLs. You can continue for now, but it'll be hit and miss until finally one day it won't crank at all. Pulling the starter yourself is very easy, except you have to remove the battery. The bolt for the battery platform is a bitch. You can buy a rebuild kit for the starter or just replace the starter. Here's a thread with info on pulling the starter, post #32:

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/tl-wouldnt-start-so-i-793810/

akertulis

thanks ill def check into that and for the #30 fuse mine are all good to go

akertulis

looks easy to do, ive changed starters before on my hondas now i got the acura and looks pretty simple

I hate cars

Yep, sounds like the starter solenoid, possibly contacts. Possibly the brushes also. Once it gets to the point of not working you can usually have someone hold the key in the start position and tap the starter with a hammer. This is one reason I never go until the battery barely turns it over. A weak battery will make a starter go out quicker.

akertulis

yea its back to doin what it was doing before i put the new battery in so im leaning towards the starter...

nfnsquared

Did you have the first battery tested before you replaced it?

akertulis

yea i did the battery needed replaced

PlatinumAdonis

I'm having a similar problem in my '04 TL. I've read through this whole thread and am leaning towards the problem being a drain on the battery. I just replaced the battery yesterday for the same issue and it worked fine for the rest of yesterday and the first part of today. Now it's back to not starting again. The lights and everything come on when I get into the car and turn the key to the idle position but when I turn it to start the car everything goes dim and I just get a click or clicks. I don't think it is the coding of my key because I tried both keys and neither worked.

Could someone explain a little more about the possible HFL drain or whatever else the problem could possibly be?

Thanks for any input!