Came in for oil change and got a $5,000 quote
#1
Came in for oil change and got a $5,000 quote
Hi,
I drive an Acura TL Type S 2007. I got the Service B1 light on the dashboard and took the car for a maintenance. I live in Canada.
I also heard squeaking sounds from the tires so tried to go there as soon as possible.
When I came to the dealer, Acura, they gave me the following quote:
1. Rear pads & rotors & calipers (caliper was seized) $1070 + taxes
2. Power steering feed hose (leakage) $630 + taxes
3. Engine timing belt & water pump & V6 platinum spark plugs with serpentine/drive belt & tensioner (engine noise) $1640 + taxes
4. Bank #2 rear & bottom converter heat shields (loose/rattle noise) $790 + taxes
5. Replace exhaust converter studs (rusted) $160 + taxes
6. Rear sway bar end links & bushings (worn/binding) $310 + taxes
7. Left rear fender light (inoperative) $126 + taxes
8. Total = $4726 + B1 service $298 = $5024 + taxes
I am not very competent when it comes to cars and unsure about these items.
Aside from this my HandsFreeLink system is also down and they quoted me for $1,000.
Would appreciate your feedback and some steps that I should take to start learning about my car better.
Thank you for the help, in advance.
I drive an Acura TL Type S 2007. I got the Service B1 light on the dashboard and took the car for a maintenance. I live in Canada.
I also heard squeaking sounds from the tires so tried to go there as soon as possible.
When I came to the dealer, Acura, they gave me the following quote:
1. Rear pads & rotors & calipers (caliper was seized) $1070 + taxes
2. Power steering feed hose (leakage) $630 + taxes
3. Engine timing belt & water pump & V6 platinum spark plugs with serpentine/drive belt & tensioner (engine noise) $1640 + taxes
4. Bank #2 rear & bottom converter heat shields (loose/rattle noise) $790 + taxes
5. Replace exhaust converter studs (rusted) $160 + taxes
6. Rear sway bar end links & bushings (worn/binding) $310 + taxes
7. Left rear fender light (inoperative) $126 + taxes
8. Total = $4726 + B1 service $298 = $5024 + taxes
I am not very competent when it comes to cars and unsure about these items.
Aside from this my HandsFreeLink system is also down and they quoted me for $1,000.
Would appreciate your feedback and some steps that I should take to start learning about my car better.
Thank you for the help, in advance.
#2
Woah, thats a bit of money, but almost to be expected from a Stealership.
1. Rear pads, rotors and calipers are about $260/side just for the parts if you order them yourself. Should only be a two hour install.. maybe three, so add $250.
2. There's a recall for the high pressure power steering hose leaking. That should be free. (if its the hose in the recall)
3. How many miles are on your car? Are you at 105000 miles (168k km I think)? If you are, then its time for a timing belt/spark plug change. Serpentine belt is $30 I think and the tensioner shouldn't be much more than $80
4. They're going to charge you $800 to clamp some heat shields down? Or are they actually replacing the converters (which would be overkill, it seems). You can clamp down the heat shields to reduce rattle.
5. Not sure why they're trying to replace a converter if its not bad.
6. Rear sway bar bushings are $1 / side and the end links are $15/side. Easy 30 minute job.
7. Don't know how long it takes to replace a $2 lamp.
8. Take the car to an independent mechanic. You're going to get bent over at a dealership.
1. Rear pads, rotors and calipers are about $260/side just for the parts if you order them yourself. Should only be a two hour install.. maybe three, so add $250.
2. There's a recall for the high pressure power steering hose leaking. That should be free. (if its the hose in the recall)
3. How many miles are on your car? Are you at 105000 miles (168k km I think)? If you are, then its time for a timing belt/spark plug change. Serpentine belt is $30 I think and the tensioner shouldn't be much more than $80
4. They're going to charge you $800 to clamp some heat shields down? Or are they actually replacing the converters (which would be overkill, it seems). You can clamp down the heat shields to reduce rattle.
5. Not sure why they're trying to replace a converter if its not bad.
6. Rear sway bar bushings are $1 / side and the end links are $15/side. Easy 30 minute job.
7. Don't know how long it takes to replace a $2 lamp.
8. Take the car to an independent mechanic. You're going to get bent over at a dealership.
#3
Registered Bike Offender
iTrader: (3)
Firstly, I realize those are Canadian dollars and that cars are generally more expensive up there. Reading these prices as USB blows my mind. All the prices I've written below are in USD.
1. Rear pads & rotors & calipers (caliper was seized) $1070 + taxes
rear pad set, $50. should only need to replace the seized caliper, not both ($140). As them if the rotor is warped, if they say yes, ask them to show you. If they say no, a simple resurfacing should do. My car has 90,000 miles and I'm still on ORIGINAL rear pads (2008 Type S) with no noise/overheating/vibrations/etc. realistically, even if you need new rotors ($160 USD for both), this should not cost more than $350 USD plus 2 hours of labor.
2. Power steering feed hose (leakage) $630 + taxes
feed hose is $65 USD. The labor cost here is associated with draining the fluid, replacing the feed hose, then flushing/refilling/bleeding the system. Still think it can be done in less than 2 hours also.
Another member mentioned this already: there's a recall on this part. So if you haven't had this done, this should be free. look for TSB 08-016 here: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/3g-tl-technical-service-bulletins-tsbs-3g-garage-j-016-a-613659/
3. Engine timing belt & water pump & V6 platinum spark plugs with serpentine/drive belt & tensioner (engine noise) $1640 + taxes
105k mile service, parts and labor should be no more than $1200 USD, but some people get this done at honda dealerships for $700.
4. Bank #2 rear & bottom converter heat shields (loose/rattle noise) $790 + taxes
Completely ridiculous. it's a fucking rivet. If the shield itself is rusted off the rivet, then a clamp or another hole can be drilled elsewhere. Replacing the converters is asinine. I can do this in my basic garage with a drill and a sheet metal screw. A shop should charge no more than 40 to remove the cat and re-fasten the heat shield
5. Replace exhaust converter studs (rusted) $160 + taxes
Exhaust bolts get rusted. If they aren't broken or snapped, there is no need to replace them.
6. Rear sway bar end links & bushings (worn/binding) $310 + taxes
bushings are about $2 and the stabilizers are $15 each. this job requires removal of 8 easily accesible fasteners. easily less than 1 hour, if this is even required.
7. Left rear fender light (inoperative) $126 + taxes
why? bad bulb? damaged housing? wiring problem?
ask them this.
8. Total = $4726 + B1 service $298 = $5024 + taxes
The best way to not get screwed by a dealership is to be overly polite while challenging everything they suggest. Simply ask them to show you what the problems are on the car instead of trusting them over a phone call or sitting down looking at a piece of paper. Clearly they're trying to take you for a ride. Read this: http://www.automd.com/repairguide/ne...r-shop-honest/
and browse that site.
Edit: oops, looks like pbook already posted some of the prices. Keep in mind that these are in USD and might be more in Canada.
1. Rear pads & rotors & calipers (caliper was seized) $1070 + taxes
rear pad set, $50. should only need to replace the seized caliper, not both ($140). As them if the rotor is warped, if they say yes, ask them to show you. If they say no, a simple resurfacing should do. My car has 90,000 miles and I'm still on ORIGINAL rear pads (2008 Type S) with no noise/overheating/vibrations/etc. realistically, even if you need new rotors ($160 USD for both), this should not cost more than $350 USD plus 2 hours of labor.
2. Power steering feed hose (leakage) $630 + taxes
feed hose is $65 USD. The labor cost here is associated with draining the fluid, replacing the feed hose, then flushing/refilling/bleeding the system. Still think it can be done in less than 2 hours also.
Another member mentioned this already: there's a recall on this part. So if you haven't had this done, this should be free. look for TSB 08-016 here: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/3g-tl-technical-service-bulletins-tsbs-3g-garage-j-016-a-613659/
3. Engine timing belt & water pump & V6 platinum spark plugs with serpentine/drive belt & tensioner (engine noise) $1640 + taxes
105k mile service, parts and labor should be no more than $1200 USD, but some people get this done at honda dealerships for $700.
4. Bank #2 rear & bottom converter heat shields (loose/rattle noise) $790 + taxes
Completely ridiculous. it's a fucking rivet. If the shield itself is rusted off the rivet, then a clamp or another hole can be drilled elsewhere. Replacing the converters is asinine. I can do this in my basic garage with a drill and a sheet metal screw. A shop should charge no more than 40 to remove the cat and re-fasten the heat shield
5. Replace exhaust converter studs (rusted) $160 + taxes
Exhaust bolts get rusted. If they aren't broken or snapped, there is no need to replace them.
6. Rear sway bar end links & bushings (worn/binding) $310 + taxes
bushings are about $2 and the stabilizers are $15 each. this job requires removal of 8 easily accesible fasteners. easily less than 1 hour, if this is even required.
7. Left rear fender light (inoperative) $126 + taxes
why? bad bulb? damaged housing? wiring problem?
ask them this.
8. Total = $4726 + B1 service $298 = $5024 + taxes
The best way to not get screwed by a dealership is to be overly polite while challenging everything they suggest. Simply ask them to show you what the problems are on the car instead of trusting them over a phone call or sitting down looking at a piece of paper. Clearly they're trying to take you for a ride. Read this: http://www.automd.com/repairguide/ne...r-shop-honest/
and browse that site.
Edit: oops, looks like pbook already posted some of the prices. Keep in mind that these are in USD and might be more in Canada.
#4
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That alone tells me this dealership will overcharge you at any given opportunity. The B1 service is an oil & filter change, with visual inspection of brakes and everything under the car. That's normally less than $80 USD at a dealer service center.
My recommendation is to find a good independent shop that deals with Hondas-- use Auto Club or Yelp referrals-- to get a real evaluation of the car ASAP.
To add to pbook4g5's post above, FWIW:
#2. The power steering hose (high pressure side) is a recall item, which means it is a free replacement for you if not previously done.
The dealership should run the VIN to see if it was done previously (but it shouldn't be leaking afterwards!).
#4. Do you hear any rattles with the car idling? If not, forget it.
If you do hear any rattling, it's a Technical Service Bulletin item (i.e. known by the manufacturer, but not a safety item) that involves replacement of the bolts, washers and hangers, if repositioning and tightening them doesn't work.
Welcome to AZ.
My recommendation is to find a good independent shop that deals with Hondas-- use Auto Club or Yelp referrals-- to get a real evaluation of the car ASAP.
To add to pbook4g5's post above, FWIW:
#2. The power steering hose (high pressure side) is a recall item, which means it is a free replacement for you if not previously done.
The dealership should run the VIN to see if it was done previously (but it shouldn't be leaking afterwards!).
#4. Do you hear any rattles with the car idling? If not, forget it.
If you do hear any rattling, it's a Technical Service Bulletin item (i.e. known by the manufacturer, but not a safety item) that involves replacement of the bolts, washers and hangers, if repositioning and tightening them doesn't work.
Welcome to AZ.
#6
#7
Slot Machine Lubricator
iTrader: (2)
The best way to not get screwed by a dealership is to be overly polite while challenging everything they suggest. Simply ask them to show you what the problems are on the car instead of trusting them over a phone call or sitting down looking at a piece of paper. Clearly they're trying to take you for a ride. Read this: http://www.automd.com/repairguide/ne...r-shop-honest/
.
OP I think this dealer is trying to shank your wallet.
I bet a local honda dealer would do it for less.
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#9
Team Owner
OP, you should go to the dealership and ask them for a print out of all the parts you need to replace, along with prices. Tell them you need to "show it to the wife" or some story. Then go to acuraoemparts.com and buy them for a fraction of the price.
Those swaybar endlinks are indeed $15 a piece. I live in Canada too, and my dealership wanted something like $85 a piece. Complete rip off.
I would then find a small shop that specializes in Hondas, ask them if they'll install parts that you already have (again, say something like "I bought these parts thinking I could do the work myself, but realized I don't have the time"). Most shops won't have a problem using parts supplied by you, especially if they're still in their original packaging. Being in Canada, you WILL pay more for everything, but I think you could easily cut that bill down by $2,000, if not more.
Additionally, my Acura dealer wanted to charge me for the power steering hose replacement, but I knew in advance that there was a manufacturer's recall on it. Free!
Those swaybar endlinks are indeed $15 a piece. I live in Canada too, and my dealership wanted something like $85 a piece. Complete rip off.
I would then find a small shop that specializes in Hondas, ask them if they'll install parts that you already have (again, say something like "I bought these parts thinking I could do the work myself, but realized I don't have the time"). Most shops won't have a problem using parts supplied by you, especially if they're still in their original packaging. Being in Canada, you WILL pay more for everything, but I think you could easily cut that bill down by $2,000, if not more.
Additionally, my Acura dealer wanted to charge me for the power steering hose replacement, but I knew in advance that there was a manufacturer's recall on it. Free!
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#11
Registered Bike Offender
iTrader: (3)
I hate dealers as much as the next guy, but for those who don't have the time, space, tools, or confidence to do their own repairs, they are a necessary evil. Now you might say "No they're not! There are independent shops, other chains, etc." My response is yes, but they can be just as shady (if not more) than dealers, especially because they don't have to worry about upholding a brand identity. You can't escalate a bad experience/wrongful handling of your car to "Bruce's Automotive" corporate customer service center. I'd prefer OEM parts, too.
There is a way to get fair pricing from them. But it does involve a little bit of work on your part.
Firstly, you should NEVER pay more for parts than what you can find on www.oemacuraparts.com or any other such site. If they quote you more on parts, produce a printout of the pricing of the parts from this page and I'll guarantee they'll match it. If they don't, notify them that you will supply the OEM Acura parts yourself.
Secondly, don't assume that their suggestions are honest. I've had dealers tell me I needed new brake fluid and P/S fluid weeks after I flushed both. Ask them to show you the problem on your car. If they're being honest, this shouldn't be a problem. If they're taking you for a ride, they'll get nervous and start arguing. Don't take any condescension either.
Finally, check the labor times against an internet search!
Good luck OP, hope your TL is running great again soon.
There is a way to get fair pricing from them. But it does involve a little bit of work on your part.
Firstly, you should NEVER pay more for parts than what you can find on www.oemacuraparts.com or any other such site. If they quote you more on parts, produce a printout of the pricing of the parts from this page and I'll guarantee they'll match it. If they don't, notify them that you will supply the OEM Acura parts yourself.
Secondly, don't assume that their suggestions are honest. I've had dealers tell me I needed new brake fluid and P/S fluid weeks after I flushed both. Ask them to show you the problem on your car. If they're being honest, this shouldn't be a problem. If they're taking you for a ride, they'll get nervous and start arguing. Don't take any condescension either.
Finally, check the labor times against an internet search!
Good luck OP, hope your TL is running great again soon.
#13
Where in Canada are you?
I also spent quite a bit of money (more than i care to mention) on my recent purchase of a 2008 TL-S. I am knowledgeable with cars but just don't have the time to wrench on it. When the dealer gave me the repair list, I already knew what needed to be replaced so I know they weren't screwing me. I asked for a discount and it knocked my bill down significantly. I also get my discount on all future services.
If you don't ask you don't get.....I've done this with all the dealers I've dealt with over the years.
Also I'm not suggesting you do what the dealer says.......if you're unsure get a second opinion on the repairs needed.
I also spent quite a bit of money (more than i care to mention) on my recent purchase of a 2008 TL-S. I am knowledgeable with cars but just don't have the time to wrench on it. When the dealer gave me the repair list, I already knew what needed to be replaced so I know they weren't screwing me. I asked for a discount and it knocked my bill down significantly. I also get my discount on all future services.
If you don't ask you don't get.....I've done this with all the dealers I've dealt with over the years.
Also I'm not suggesting you do what the dealer says.......if you're unsure get a second opinion on the repairs needed.
Last edited by se05; 08-28-2014 at 08:03 PM.
#14
Thank you for all the help, appreciated.
I am from Toronto.
What about the scheduled A/B type services? Should I also take these out of the acura stealership and find a good mechanic?
My knowledge of the subject matter is rather limited, makes it challenging to dispute what they are saying:
I am from Toronto.
What about the scheduled A/B type services? Should I also take these out of the acura stealership and find a good mechanic?
My knowledge of the subject matter is rather limited, makes it challenging to dispute what they are saying:
- Where can I start learning about these items?
- How can I find a good and reliable mechanic that I can trust?
#15
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The answers to both of your questions can be found here on AZ!!
Now that you have found AZ, you should spend some time searching there is TONS of info here. This is without a doubt the best Acura site on the web.
Check out this thread as a start - https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/3g-tl-service-department-aka-garage-questions-answers-check-here-first-553557/
and this one - https://acurazine.com/forums/eastern-canada-323/
Now that you have found AZ, you should spend some time searching there is TONS of info here. This is without a doubt the best Acura site on the web.
Check out this thread as a start - https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/3g-tl-service-department-aka-garage-questions-answers-check-here-first-553557/
and this one - https://acurazine.com/forums/eastern-canada-323/
Last edited by NBP04TL4ME; 08-29-2014 at 09:58 AM.
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Acura-OC (08-29-2014)
#16
Hi,
My Acura is a US model, they are letting me know that the recall was for the Canadian models only. If I like, I may call customer service and see if they can assist me on this matter.
I have requested a detailed description by labor and parts for each item.
My Acura is a US model, they are letting me know that the recall was for the Canadian models only. If I like, I may call customer service and see if they can assist me on this matter.
I have requested a detailed description by labor and parts for each item.
#18
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#20
3.5 psi
iTrader: (1)
go to the local section. Most guys have the same car as you and are in the Toronto area. Ask them for a recommended shop. https://acurazine.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=323
#22
Gotta find a local independent shop....Good luck!
#24
Drifting
I don't know if I have all the details correct, but I swear reading someone else's experience with recalls between the to divisions of Acura.
#26
The recall spans a certain VIN range. Regardless of whether or not the car is in Canada or America, it would have to be in that VIN range.
If what you are saying is true, then VINs sold in Canada wouldn't be in the recall. I'm not sure if that would be the case, but it would be worth investigating. Weird.
If what you are saying is true, then VINs sold in Canada wouldn't be in the recall. I'm not sure if that would be the case, but it would be worth investigating. Weird.
#27
Hi Everyone,
Many thanks on the help, appreciate it.
The milage on the car is around 100K - 110K miles.
Regarding the "Power steering feed hose", I called Acura and they will arrange to get this replaced free of charge as there is a recall. The local dealership was trying to avoid this and gave me the nice "go to the states" message, thank you for saving me few hundred $ on this by pointing out the recall.
I have a client in the automitive industry and he pointed me to a dealership, they quoted me the following:
1. Front pads $210 includes parts and labour first line oe quality parts
2. Rear brakes including rotor pads calipers brake fluid and labour $650 first line oe quality parts
3. Timing belt water pump hydraulic tensioner pulleys seals and coolant $1070 original oe parts
4. Transmission service $129
5. Tune up: Spark plugs throttle body service and labour $213
6. Rear links installed $190
Is this a reasonable quote?
Regarding the HandsFree Link, I saw a video explaining how to replace it, fairly easy, how can I tell the part number for my VIN/car model and color?
Many thanks on the help, appreciate it.
The milage on the car is around 100K - 110K miles.
Regarding the "Power steering feed hose", I called Acura and they will arrange to get this replaced free of charge as there is a recall. The local dealership was trying to avoid this and gave me the nice "go to the states" message, thank you for saving me few hundred $ on this by pointing out the recall.
I have a client in the automitive industry and he pointed me to a dealership, they quoted me the following:
1. Front pads $210 includes parts and labour first line oe quality parts
2. Rear brakes including rotor pads calipers brake fluid and labour $650 first line oe quality parts
3. Timing belt water pump hydraulic tensioner pulleys seals and coolant $1070 original oe parts
4. Transmission service $129
5. Tune up: Spark plugs throttle body service and labour $213
6. Rear links installed $190
Is this a reasonable quote?
Regarding the HandsFree Link, I saw a video explaining how to replace it, fairly easy, how can I tell the part number for my VIN/car model and color?
#29
Also, is this the HFL part I need?
Amazon.com: ACURA OEM FACTORY HANDS FREE LINK 2005-2006 TL MOON LAKE GRAY: Automotive
Amazon.com: ACURA OEM FACTORY HANDS FREE LINK 2005-2006 TL MOON LAKE GRAY: Automotive
#30
btw, he will be sure that the color is correct.....two types of gray for that year.
#31
Hi Everyone,
Many thanks on the help, appreciate it.
The milage on the car is around 100K - 110K miles.
Regarding the "Power steering feed hose", I called Acura and they will arrange to get this replaced free of charge as there is a recall. The local dealership was trying to avoid this and gave me the nice "go to the states" message, thank you for saving me few hundred $ on this by pointing out the recall.
I have a client in the automotive industry and he pointed me to a dealership, they quoted me the following:
1. Front pads $210 includes parts and labour first line oe quality parts
2. Rear brakes including rotor pads calipers brake fluid and labour $650 first line oe quality parts
3. Timing belt water pump hydraulic tensioner pulleys seals and coolant $1070 original oe parts
4. Transmission service $129
5. Tune up: Spark plugs throttle body service and labour $213
6. Rear links installed $190
Is this a reasonable quote?
Many thanks on the help, appreciate it.
The milage on the car is around 100K - 110K miles.
Regarding the "Power steering feed hose", I called Acura and they will arrange to get this replaced free of charge as there is a recall. The local dealership was trying to avoid this and gave me the nice "go to the states" message, thank you for saving me few hundred $ on this by pointing out the recall.
I have a client in the automotive industry and he pointed me to a dealership, they quoted me the following:
1. Front pads $210 includes parts and labour first line oe quality parts
2. Rear brakes including rotor pads calipers brake fluid and labour $650 first line oe quality parts
3. Timing belt water pump hydraulic tensioner pulleys seals and coolant $1070 original oe parts
4. Transmission service $129
5. Tune up: Spark plugs throttle body service and labour $213
6. Rear links installed $190
Is this a reasonable quote?
#32
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If those are Canadian dollars, I think that might be reasonable.
If the prices are USD, the front pads seem a little expensive, but the timing belt, etc. is OK.
What is the "transmission service?" If it's using a pump to change out the transmission fluid, DON'T do it. Acura and Honda require a "drain-and-fill" procedure for change of auto transmission fluid.
Does the "tune-up" include a valve adjustment? If not, the price seems a bit high, assuming USD.
IDK about the caliper & rotor prices on the Type-S, or the endlinks.
If the prices are USD, the front pads seem a little expensive, but the timing belt, etc. is OK.
What is the "transmission service?" If it's using a pump to change out the transmission fluid, DON'T do it. Acura and Honda require a "drain-and-fill" procedure for change of auto transmission fluid.
Does the "tune-up" include a valve adjustment? If not, the price seems a bit high, assuming USD.
IDK about the caliper & rotor prices on the Type-S, or the endlinks.
#33
Your Friendly Canadian
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Given that the work is being done at a dealership and here in Canada yes, those prices seem reasonable.
I would be a little skeptical of "first line oe quality parts", especially considering your front brakes are Brembos (IIRC). Did they give you a cheaper rate for them? What's involved in the throttle body service?
I would be a little skeptical of "first line oe quality parts", especially considering your front brakes are Brembos (IIRC). Did they give you a cheaper rate for them? What's involved in the throttle body service?
#34
3.5 psi
iTrader: (1)
Hi Everyone,
Many thanks on the help, appreciate it.
The milage on the car is around 100K - 110K miles.
Regarding the "Power steering feed hose", I called Acura and they will arrange to get this replaced free of charge as there is a recall. The local dealership was trying to avoid this and gave me the nice "go to the states" message, thank you for saving me few hundred $ on this by pointing out the recall.
I have a client in the automitive industry and he pointed me to a dealership, they quoted me the following:
1. Front pads $210 includes parts and labour first line oe quality parts
2. Rear brakes including rotor pads calipers brake fluid and labour $650 first line oe quality parts
3. Timing belt water pump hydraulic tensioner pulleys seals and coolant $1070 original oe parts
4. Transmission service $129
5. Tune up: Spark plugs throttle body service and labour $213
6. Rear links installed $190
Is this a reasonable quote?
Regarding the HandsFree Link, I saw a video explaining how to replace it, fairly easy, how can I tell the part number for my VIN/car model and color?
Many thanks on the help, appreciate it.
The milage on the car is around 100K - 110K miles.
Regarding the "Power steering feed hose", I called Acura and they will arrange to get this replaced free of charge as there is a recall. The local dealership was trying to avoid this and gave me the nice "go to the states" message, thank you for saving me few hundred $ on this by pointing out the recall.
I have a client in the automitive industry and he pointed me to a dealership, they quoted me the following:
1. Front pads $210 includes parts and labour first line oe quality parts
2. Rear brakes including rotor pads calipers brake fluid and labour $650 first line oe quality parts
3. Timing belt water pump hydraulic tensioner pulleys seals and coolant $1070 original oe parts
4. Transmission service $129
5. Tune up: Spark plugs throttle body service and labour $213
6. Rear links installed $190
Is this a reasonable quote?
Regarding the HandsFree Link, I saw a video explaining how to replace it, fairly easy, how can I tell the part number for my VIN/car model and color?
These guys were good and specialize in honda/acura.
is your car automatic or manual? If auto, the procedure is called a 3x3 drain/refill. Only a certain amount of fluid will come out of the auto trans at a time, so you have to refill the same amount of new fluid, drive around, and do it again (3 times). If you're manual, it's a simple drain and refill.
I don't know what a throttle body service is but it sounds like a ripoff. There's nothing there to do other than maybe cleaning it, but your car isn't that old. Spark plugs are about $15 ea. (NGK you want). So that's $90 for the plugs and if they're doing the timing belt at the same time, labour should be nothing really.
Rear endlinks are much much cheaper to buy from the USA. Like $13 vs $60 each. If you don't hear a clunking/knocking sound over bumps from the rear of the car then don't replace them. Nothing bad will happen if one breaks. They'll just clunk.
My advice would be to go to Altech and get your timing belt done, brakes, spark plugs. The rest, leave it alone.
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mr-alexander (09-03-2014)
#35
Given that the work is being done at a dealership and here in Canada yes, those prices seem reasonable.
I would be a little skeptical of "first line oe quality parts", especially considering your front brakes are Brembos (IIRC). Did they give you a cheaper rate for them? What's involved in the throttle body service?
I would be a little skeptical of "first line oe quality parts", especially considering your front brakes are Brembos (IIRC). Did they give you a cheaper rate for them? What's involved in the throttle body service?
6. Rear links installed $190 - What is this?
#36
I'm not sure if you're set on a dealer rather than an independant shop, but you'll save a lot by not going to the dealer. I got my timing belt job done by Alcore for around $600. http://altechperformance.com/contact-us/
These guys were good and specialize in honda/acura.
is your car automatic or manual? If auto, the procedure is called a 3x3 drain/refill. Only a certain amount of fluid will come out of the auto trans at a time, so you have to refill the same amount of new fluid, drive around, and do it again (3 times). If you're manual, it's a simple drain and refill.
I don't know what a throttle body service is but it sounds like a ripoff. There's nothing there to do other than maybe cleaning it, but your car isn't that old. Spark plugs are about $15 ea. (NGK you want). So that's $90 for the plugs and if they're doing the timing belt at the same time, labour should be nothing really.
Rear endlinks are much much cheaper to buy from the USA. Like $13 vs $60 each. If you don't hear a clunking/knocking sound over bumps from the rear of the car then don't replace them. Nothing bad will happen if one breaks. They'll just clunk.
My advice would be to go to Altech and get your timing belt done, brakes, spark plugs. The rest, leave it alone.
These guys were good and specialize in honda/acura.
is your car automatic or manual? If auto, the procedure is called a 3x3 drain/refill. Only a certain amount of fluid will come out of the auto trans at a time, so you have to refill the same amount of new fluid, drive around, and do it again (3 times). If you're manual, it's a simple drain and refill.
I don't know what a throttle body service is but it sounds like a ripoff. There's nothing there to do other than maybe cleaning it, but your car isn't that old. Spark plugs are about $15 ea. (NGK you want). So that's $90 for the plugs and if they're doing the timing belt at the same time, labour should be nothing really.
Rear endlinks are much much cheaper to buy from the USA. Like $13 vs $60 each. If you don't hear a clunking/knocking sound over bumps from the rear of the car then don't replace them. Nothing bad will happen if one breaks. They'll just clunk.
My advice would be to go to Altech and get your timing belt done, brakes, spark plugs. The rest, leave it alone.
I asked them to proceed with the breaks as they are seized, otherwise I will not be able to drive anywhere and damage the car further.
I will take your advice on Alcore and go to them, if the timing belt is $600 then its already a savings of few hundred $s.
Do you think $860 is reasonable for the breaks? Is there anything I should be cautious of?
Once again, thank you for the help.
#37
By the way, I am not set on a dealer. I used to service my vehicles at dealers only but now I will stay away from them and find a reliable independent shop like Alcore.
The car is Automatic.
The car is Automatic.
#38
3.5 psi
iTrader: (1)
the price for the brakes is reasonable. They have to buy remanufactured rear calipers i'm guessing to replace your seized ones. They will return your old ones for a core refund charge, but still. There's nothing really complicated about brakes so i'm sure you'll be fine. Most brake pads have a bed in procedure like this: http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/h...-in-brake-pads
Just keep in mind i paid around $600 4-5 years ago for the timing belt.
rear endlinks: if you look under the car (standing behind the car) there is a bar (swaybar) that runs between the rear tires and is attched to the car by two endlinks near each wheel. The swaybar gives stability to the car when cornering. When endlinks are broken or worn they make a very obvious knocking sound from the rear of the car. I just replaced them on my Rav4.
It would be good maintenance to do a 3x3 transmission flush, but nothing pressing.
Just keep in mind i paid around $600 4-5 years ago for the timing belt.
rear endlinks: if you look under the car (standing behind the car) there is a bar (swaybar) that runs between the rear tires and is attched to the car by two endlinks near each wheel. The swaybar gives stability to the car when cornering. When endlinks are broken or worn they make a very obvious knocking sound from the rear of the car. I just replaced them on my Rav4.
It would be good maintenance to do a 3x3 transmission flush, but nothing pressing.
Last edited by gnuts; 09-03-2014 at 02:20 PM.
#39
Race Director
OP, did they actually prove to you that the rear calipers were seized?
#40
user title goes here
iTrader: (4)
I'm sure, if you ask the dealership for some sort of a discount or labor overlap on some items, there wont be a problem.
To the comment about the heat shields being replaced and not the actual cat converters, If one were to take a vehicle to the dealership, would one expect a half ass rigged repair such as drilling new holes through the shields or adding a clamp where none should be, be a repair performed by a dealership.
I most certainly not expect such repair or even an option as such, be offered from a dealership.
Most of these repairs are needed and can be discounted. All one has to do is just ask. Doesn't hurt to ask.
To the comment about the heat shields being replaced and not the actual cat converters, If one were to take a vehicle to the dealership, would one expect a half ass rigged repair such as drilling new holes through the shields or adding a clamp where none should be, be a repair performed by a dealership.
I most certainly not expect such repair or even an option as such, be offered from a dealership.
Most of these repairs are needed and can be discounted. All one has to do is just ask. Doesn't hurt to ask.