Took off my calipers and the mount hole threads were stripped. Apparently this is a common issue with brembo calipers. A quick google search yielded this:

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106626

We are currently trying to implement this heli-core fix on my calipers. If not I'll have to spend $6-700 on new brakes. FML.

Has this happened to anyone else?

 

Nope.

I do know that restarting the bolt is hard. Makes it feel liek thery are stripped. You've got to have the caliper aligned just right or the bolt won't catch and/or will cross-thread.

But, once you find the sweet spot, the twist right in, easy-peasy.

 

I had no problems with those bolts when I removed my calipers, but I did follow the service manual and use 125 ft/lbs to retorque the bolts. I saw in that thread where they claim it should only be 80 ft/lbs. I wonder where they got that? The service manual says 80 ft/lbs for non-Brembo calipers and 125 ft/lbs for Brembo calipers.

 

Their calipers are different than ours - so who knows. They are still made by brembo though. My caliper paint has also failed, HARD.

 

bumped from the past. but i just wanted to throw in my 2 cents.

Had the same problem as everyone else - basically took off all 4 caliper bolts with a breaker bar the whole time. The top bolts on both sides came off easier than the bottoms.

A lot of people blame acura, but it actually happens with a lot of people with brembo's (Sti, Evo, G35 owners, etc.) as stated by the OP. After the other stories and talking with machinist who's seen numerous brembo calipers come in - it's the steel bolt + aluminum caliper + corrosion, hot and cold cycles, and pressure (there are probably are more factors involved) that contribute to the stripped threads.

My solution was to get all 4 holes drilled and fitted with time serts (vs helicoils). It cost me ~$140 for a machine shop to do this since I do not have access to a drill press and I don't trust myself to hand drill it.

For reference, the bolt is a 19mm M14 x 1.5 bolt. I believe the time serts were around 17-18mm deep.

 

I was fortunate to have all 4 bolts OK. PB Blasted them for a few minutes prior to breaker barring them. Put anti-seize on when reinstalled.

Hand threaded in, then I torqued to 120lbs vs. the 125 lbs. Just seems excessive when the 350z's brembos torque to 80. Plus my beam type wrench isnt accurate down to the lb.

 

that's awesome for you. glad it's not all of us. hah

my neighbor/mechanic friend stopped by and said that working in the cold (35-40 deg) wasn't helping the metal. and I didn't soak the bolts in PB plaster

lesson learned! but good thing is i had a chance to clean the calipers and am repainting them.

 

I ran in to the same problem with mine, recently. Fortunately, only one bolt was stripped. I ordered a helicoil off of amazon and it did the trick. Reinstalled the calipers but had a problem with the caliper not releasing from the rotor. We removed the shams and they back to perfect. Goodluck!!

 

shit sucks, hard. I think I'm going to replace my calipers as I don't trust the helicoils long term. Time serts would have been better imo but I didn't know about them until i had ordered the coils. Dah well.

 

Damn Brembo's! Stupid Aluminum. I know they did that to save weight otherwise it'd be 3x the weight.

I went to put teflon tape on one of the bleeder screws and guess what? It was seized like the caliper mounting bolt. Had to take it back to the machine shop to get tapped out and put a new kit.

Time Serts are what I have and they look solid. Only time will tell.

 

also i'm not sure why I put rotors in the title of this thread. Mods can we fix?

 

i sure would like to know why all these calipers are being removed?(rotor replacement)anywho, and incase people dont know, these calipers dont need dissassembly inorder to replace the pads. that being said does anyone know where to purchase the o ring that sits between the two halves?

 

^^^Hopefully because they were replacing or sanding the rotors.

Just had my calipers off yesterday for the second time at 114K to replace my original OEM rotors. (1st time at 63K to sand the rotors in prep for the new pads, RB ET300s)

No problems with the caliper bolts either time.

BTW, my original rotors were at 23.5 mm at 114K, still had .5mm left.

And the RB ET300s have 51K on them and they're only worn about 1/3. Unbelievable!

 

Well, add me to this list. I was replacing my rotors/pads yesterday and the two top bolts were a pita but came out unscathed using an impact wrench. Both bottom bolts stripped out the hole in the caliper, however. By the look of the bottom bolts after removal, it looked like the tip of the bolt had a decent amount of corrosion from being exposed to the elements (my car is an '07 TL-S with 45,500 miles and from the Chicago area). Did any of you notice a green substance on the threads of the bolts upon removal? I soaked them with several coats of PB Blaster while removing them with a breaker bar/impact wrench combo and they looked like they had a green locktite on them. When I bought my car certified from Acura they said they replaced the pads but the rotors were original.

 

rotor replacement

 

^ beat me to it! Also, anyone reading in this thread that hasn't tried removing the calipers yet but plans to, the caliper mount bolt only threads into the caliper and NOT the knuckle. The hole in the knuckle is a clearance hole for the bolt. I thought it would be useful to know this if planning to do the helicoil or time sert fix so extra inserts wouldn't be purchased.

 

the same thing happened to me today...my calipers had no thread left and i had to take em to the machine shop to put helicoils...picking them up at 3... glad to see that i dont have to spend 600 bucks

 

Replaced my rotors yesterday. What a nightmare! 3 out of 4 stripped. The problem is that often steel and aluminum corrode against each other, so the end of the threads become permanantly bonded and then when you try to take them out, it ruins the rest of the threads. Took them to my local machine shop and he put his own version of time serts in. Far superior to heli coils IMO. Now the threads are steel on steel and next time they should be a breeze to remove.

 

FYI:

Centric Parts Remanufactured calipers (probably cost less than a time-sert)
- Caliper Left: 141.40084
- Caliper Right: 141.40083
- Premium Semi-Loaded Caliper Left: 142.40084
- Premium Semi-Loaded Caliper Right: 142.40083

 

I have a heli coil on my passenger caliper has over 2yrs in and no issues

 

Not trying to beat a dead horse, but did you guys buy replacement hardware from acura or is this something you can get at a local hardware store. Managed to have only 1 bolt tear apart the threads. Thanks in advance

 

BUMP

those subaru threads call for 12x1.5 time serts.
would we use 14x1.5?

 

wish i found this thread ealier ... had a bolt strip out this weekend while it was getting fixed .. $450 for a new caliper later

question ... for those who had the mechanic install and strip the bolt .. what type of liability did they take for doing it ? if any ?

 

A lot of these instances revealed that the caliper bolts were cross threaded from the factory. He is technically liable but honestly it sounds like the first time the caliper has been removed.

 

There is no issue with installing a Heli coil. Actually most high end aluminum engine blocks and cylinder heads like Dart and Brodix install Heli coils. If the threads on my calipers are jacked, I will definitely install them.

 

derp, i'm going to correct myself from a long time ago, 350z torque spec for brembo is 113. Still lower than the Acura spec.

 

I found re-man calipers from Centric (Stoptech) for $73 each plus $135/ea refundable core. Shipping was only like $20. I haven't used these guys before, but at that price they are worth a try:

http://www.sarad.com/productinfo.aspx?p=364346

http://www.sarad.com/productinfo.aspx?p=364348

 

Let us know how those calipers work

 

Just facing this problem now. Wish i can put some base tl calipers on and call it a day. cant find wheels stripped threads etc.. anyways where did you get it done at and how much did they charge you? hit me back im from da bx...

 

Just ran into this today, all 4 stripped... looks like dealer didn't use anti-seize when they changed the rotors at 80K.

First step is heli-coil and next step is rockauto.com since they have the Centrics Brembo refurbs for $128 after core return. I should probably just order them now and save the heli-coil cost and get refurbs at the same time. WIll cost me atleast another day though.

Also need to find new bolts.

 

im in this boat now too...sigh...
I need to know what the least expensive option is...heli or a new caliper?

 

Sorry to hear that but um just get a price quote on both. Heli would probably be cheaper but if you read the thread, there are some other options too. Good luck

 

Rock auto had the best price for calipers (brembo reproductions @ $128ea) but I went with helicoils. My local machine shop charged $85 to fix all four holes. Stainless helicoils are plenty strong enough for this, he wanted to do time sets but didn't have the right size on hand and I wanted them done ASAP. I also had to find four new bolts which required me to drive 30 min to the local dealer. Check to make sure they have them in stock. $2.50 ea.

Your call, if your calipers are in good shape then get the holes fixed, if they are pretty corroded then get manufactured ones. BTW, the core charge on rock auto is $150 ea so make sure that you send yours back to get the refund.

 

Im lucky enough to have a bud w the correct tap and dye set... I was able to clean up the bolts and the holes. I was able to get the calipers on but only torqued them to 115. Still need to torque the rest: spindle nut, tie rod end, upper and lower castle nuts. My chiltons doesnt state any values though so im hoping someone could fill me in. Thanks!

 

Lol. Finally found them at the back of the chapter.

 

I had to use a breaker bar to get my bolts out, every single turn took effort...

 

you don't need new bolts. The bolts are hard steel and the caliper is aluminum. Just clean the bolt with a die for correct size.

 

i just ran into this as well...its horrible. I didnt have a tap and dye set, so i cleaned up one of the bolts with a wire wheel, took a die grinder and cut slots into the bolt like a homemade tap. slowly threading it in, a little at a time, backing it back out slowly, and eventually until i got it through. it cleaned up the threads just fine...went and bought new bolts and i won!! lol

 

Glad I ran into this. Did my rear pads/rotors at 92k and went to pull the fronts and the bolts were locked in place. I was getting some luck using s breaker bar but was afraid I was going to torque the heads off.

 

Hi, my '06 TL with the brembo's has this problem now - the bottom bolt holding the caliper on required a breaker bar to get it out. I have a guy who's goign to helicoil it for me. I called one good shop and they flat-out refused as they didn't want the liability. That shop recommended a new/reburb'ed caliper. For grins, I called several good parts places and while listed in their books, they cannot get ahold of the part. Seems like there is a shortage of these or they are being hoarded by someone, no idea. Anyway, hoping the helicoil thing will do the job - the guy I am using has done it before - he works on Hondas and Acuras only.