Brakes
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Team SSM Queen
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: The Beautiful Hudson Valley
Brakes
My car hit 105K (and has been trouble free all this time!
) and I still have the original brakes and pads since I do almost my driving on highways. I drive about 30K a year now, and plan on keeping the car another 2 years.
When I have my tires rotated, I'm going to ask the guy to check the pads for wear. My question is - if the pads are worn, should I go ahead and put new brakes on too, since I'm going to have to do this eventually?
I've never owned a car this long. How can I tell if I just need new pads or also need new brakes?
When I have my tires rotated, I'm going to ask the guy to check the pads for wear. My question is - if the pads are worn, should I go ahead and put new brakes on too, since I'm going to have to do this eventually?
I've never owned a car this long. How can I tell if I just need new pads or also need new brakes?
When people refer to "new brakes," they usually mean the brake pads.
The rotors/disks (which are gripped by the pads to stop the car) sometimes have to be changed if they have worn thin or unevenly, have deep grooves/scoring, etc.
The brake pads each have slot/groove that, like tire treads, can be viewed to determine how much wear is left.
Have the person rotating your tires show you-- it's easy.
The rotor wall thickness can be measured by the tech/mechanic.
Usually, at each service or inspection, the mechanic will say or write on your paperwork how much wear remains as a percentage of remaining pad (they refer to the most worn pad); rotor thickness is usually not checked unless there is a problem or when new pads are needed.
I would not change pads unless there is less than 25% remaining.
The rotors/disks (which are gripped by the pads to stop the car) sometimes have to be changed if they have worn thin or unevenly, have deep grooves/scoring, etc.
The brake pads each have slot/groove that, like tire treads, can be viewed to determine how much wear is left.
Have the person rotating your tires show you-- it's easy.
The rotor wall thickness can be measured by the tech/mechanic.
Usually, at each service or inspection, the mechanic will say or write on your paperwork how much wear remains as a percentage of remaining pad (they refer to the most worn pad); rotor thickness is usually not checked unless there is a problem or when new pads are needed.
I would not change pads unless there is less than 25% remaining.
as a retired tech--we didnt measure pad thickness- we guess-timated percentage--it looks like it needs brakes today or it doesnt..I got things to do
You cant truely measure the pad unless you remove it--
for visual without removing caliper, the center vent line-if present-not all pads use one-- has its bottem as the min thickness
BUT
pads can be worn out on the face and still have depth
the minimum pad thickness is 2mm and age plus low thickness equal less effective braking
Yours are probably glazed and cracked by now= buy some new pads
Have a brake shop--not a big brand name place with corp minimums to earn on every car- a smaller private owner honest shop- ck the rotor condition
Acura rotors are not very good for resurfacing--it they get gouged and need to be cut- they get too thin and get shake easily
You cant truely measure the pad unless you remove it--
for visual without removing caliper, the center vent line-if present-not all pads use one-- has its bottem as the min thickness
BUT
pads can be worn out on the face and still have depth
the minimum pad thickness is 2mm and age plus low thickness equal less effective braking
Yours are probably glazed and cracked by now= buy some new pads
Have a brake shop--not a big brand name place with corp minimums to earn on every car- a smaller private owner honest shop- ck the rotor condition
Acura rotors are not very good for resurfacing--it they get gouged and need to be cut- they get too thin and get shake easily
Last edited by 01tl4tl; Jun 28, 2010 at 12:33 PM.
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