StYLeZz101

I had my brake fluid replaced in march of this year and was told my pads was low so I knew they had to be replaced. Replaced them over the weekend so i took the top off of the brake fluid reservoir and it was empty...i figured it was just really low and as i compress the brake calipers the fluid would begin to show. after the 1st one nothing changes..on the last caliper then some fluid begins to show...

so now i have to bleed the system also... as i'm bleeding the brakes i go from driver front to pass. front then pass rear to driver rear..as the manual states..i bled each caliper 3 times and did the entire process 3 times...

on my test drive the pedal still feels a bit soft...today i did some hard stops from about 60-0mph never letting the brakes lock up..the pedal feels like it needs to be depressed fully but the car stops quickly.. i want to know whether i still may have air in the system???

i've previously had ebc red stuff pads and switched to the duralast c-max...would the difference in the pedal feel come from the pads??

and my last question is while bleeding the system as i cracked the bleeder valve the fluid from the calipers were flowing out wit some force but while bleeding the passenger rear the fluid was not coming thru the hose at the same rate as the other three calipers the flow was a lot weaker... does this mean the passenger rear caliper is sticking?? today i've noticed a little clunk sound when i was doing the 60-0 braking test...so i'm thinking that i may have a bad caliper in the rear

any input..

GLOCKWORKS

I had problems with my last acura bleeding brakes. It took a few time to get the air out and i still didnt like the results. I would never do it again. I eventually took it to a respectable shop and paid them 70 bucks to flush out the system and bleed it for me. Ive always changed out my own brakes, but i dont think i will ever bleed them again :o)

good luck

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Fluid in the reservoir will drop as the pads wear and the pistons extend outwards. Always good to undo the bleeder when the piston is pushed back in as the contaminated fluid will be expelled and not driven back into the system.

If the right rear piston was sticking you would have noticed the pads were worn more on that side and also a resistance when trying to push the piston in. If you have access to an infrared thermometer, shoot the rotors after a normal drive and that will tell if one side is higher than the other. Normally a sticking piston will give a slightly higher brake pedal feel as the piston doesn't need to be extended to contact the rotor as it is already extended. If you do find that there is a problem with that side, don't overlook the possibility of an internal rupture in the rubber brake line.

StYLeZz101

Today I decided to bleed the brake system again today using the same method and the brakes feel much better. It seemed that there was still air in the system. The right rear caliper didn't have the bleed screw rubber boot so something may have be in the hole because the flow was greater today.