So a few weeks back I ordered new Racingbrake rotors (F&R) as well as SS brake lines and I finally decided to try and install them yesterday. Well, first problem is those PITA little screws that hold the rotors. Mine were so rusted and seized that when I tried to turn them they started to fall apart. Then I saw people syaing to use an impact wrench that I went out and bought, only to realize that once I used the impact wrench on the screws they would be worthless and it being a holiday I couldn't get new screws.

Ok, I figured I would at least do the lines. Well, fate conspired against me there too. The upper retaining nut on the hard line decided that it wanted to be round and my wrench didn't like that one bit.

Long story short: Hours and much money later, nothing accomplished except and increased frustration level and a few new cuts.

Any suggestions on making this one easier...and please don't say take it to someone, cause at this point it is personal between my car and myself.

 

I have some suggestions for the bolts holding the rotors.. Take a pick and put it in one of the grooves .. now go get a hammer and hammer the pick so that it will turn the screw counter clock wise.. This is how I ALWAYS get them off.. I dont think I have ever been able to take those stupid screws off without using a pick (or a screwdriver) and a hammer.. those screws really arent needed.. when you put your wheel on it will hold the rotor in place.. the only way that is coming off is if your wheel flys off.. if you feel safer with the screw then go buy it later.. I have driven MANY cars without those screws..

 

Awesome trick. Thanks

 

^you forgot to mention about the lugs ;p

Thursday we will get this damn thing done and you will stop like a charm.

 

or use a dremel and cut a slot, allowing you to use a flathead bit.

 

Impact Screwdriver ! not impact wrench. No wonder you had a hard time.

 

^Oh dammit! I could have sworn it said impact wrench. Oh well, the wrench will make it easier to do exhaust. Time to pick up the impact screwdriver.

Thanks

 

More tools yippee!!!!

 

We will never speak of the lug

 

I just did my rotors last weekend. Had no problems, used an impact screw driver on those screws that hold the rotors on. Funny, my slotted Brembo front rotors didn't match up the new screw holes, so I couldn't put the screws back on .... fine without.

Also, first give the rusted crap a quick WD-40 spray and try not to use wrenches on rusted bolts, try a 6 sided socket for maximum grip. (need I say, be sure not to spray the pads or rotors?!?)

I needed a breaker bar for the bolts that hold the calipers on ... I used my torque wrench for the extra leverage. (I think they need to be torqued to 150 Nm)

Also, with the SS brake lines, make sure that they are DOT approved and that the hose-ends are not just swaged-on fittings, which are an invitation for disaster. They should also be changed about every two years ... don't go cheap on these ...when brake lines go, they go.

 

That looks like a Harbor Freight impact wrench. I used one for my brakes and actually broke the bit on the tool before moving the screw. I bought a Napa impact driver for a little more and it worked much better.

 

I was going to ask where a good place would be to pick up an impact driver. After reading a lot of threads about these screws I want to make sure I have one when I have to work on my brakes. Guess Harbor Freight won't be the place....

 

My screws were rusted on good...I used an impact driver and broke the bit...Out of all 4 I got one out with it lol. The easy way is to drill them out they dont serve much purpose IMO. But if your anal you can always buy new ones at acura.

 

my HF tools work fine- just use them right
The screws are of no important
Read the brake DIY for tips on where to lube parts and bolt specs
Those are no place to guess!!!- look up spec- check with torque wrench before removal and put back on with proper torque
BUY a brake line wrench- its a funky looking open end wrench- wierd angles inside to grip brake line nuts without damage- normal tools are a NO NO on brake line fittings

Do the 2, 45 mph ABS stops after line install to rid abs controller of air then rebleed- see my post on the subject
install the lines- bleed the system- test drive- rebleed -THEN do the rotors and pads

 

^Thank you sir. I was hoping to draw you out with this thread. Excellent tips. I'm going to give it another shot tomorrow.

 

Good info as usual.

What do you mean by checking the with the torque wrench "before" removal? I would assume that if things are seized at all then it would take more torque to remove than they what were originally installed with. Is that not the case?

Do you have a link to the post you are referring to? Searching for things here proves difficult at times.

 

Did my Brembo rotors as well (check other posts). Rotor screws just need a big bit, and you need to pound the end with a hammer to loosen things up before you try to unscrew them.

WD-40? The screws that hold the rotors don't rust, (al), and WD won't get in there.

If you have new slotted Brembo rotors, you got them too cheap if they don't match up to the holes for the screws.
Ebay? Have fun driving 90mph and feeling it bounce.

Caliper bolts, on Brembo rotors, are torqued to 125lbs.

 

The screw heads do rust. If I had a picture of my rotor and screws you would see. the threads were fine but the screw head was covered. I just drilled it out and everythingwas fine.

 

Check the bolts with a torque wrench before removal- if never touched they should be at spec


A trick to removing any stuck bolt or screw is spray it with wd40 then use a screwdrver or preferably an impact screw driver- set it to `right- tighten` and hit a few times
That often sets a shock wave thru the rust and then you can easily loosen it

those rotor screws are such a pain that IMO- they should be removed and treated with `anti sieze for spark plugs`- and reinstalled--do this when the wheels are off for brake inspection or for those who rotate tires, do it then
When you need to remove them later they pop right out
I even use the impact driver to make sure they are back in tight!

not sure about the gen3 Garage section DIYs- Im gen2 owner and only know our DIY area= same brakes except brembo
If you search for brake lines or brake pads or just about any combo with my name --you will find some good DIY stuff
I grew up with cars and was a shop tech and more in the industry
Aircraft maitenance standards are what I apply to all jobs
There is doing it right- and doing bs

 

always use NEW `crush washers` on the brake line to caliper attachment
They are special 1 time tighten useage, and crush slightly to seal at correct torque

Most rebuilt calipers will come with them but not all SS line makers include
Take an old one to parts store or go buy some at the dealer
Need 2 per brake line, one on each side of the `banjo fitting` at the caliper end of the line

remember the abs controller burping trick with 2, 45 mph stops after installing the lines

I always say to do the line install before rotors and pads so you dont hurt the brand new stuff using ABS--brake parts dont like that sort of treatment when brand new

 

Spend the few dollars to get the `rubber seals for open brake line`- ask the parts store

Keeping fluid from dripping out the bottem is important while you struggle with the upper end of the hose

Use a large screwdriver and channel lock type pliers to pry the hose keeper loose and out. Dont maul it, you need it !
Get the hose connection loose first, then remove keeper slider- then seperate lines
trust me- I learned the hard way

 

I think WD-40 will get in there and help loosen the oxidation a little also.

And no worries mate, I got "Brembo" rotors from the tirerack, so they are made by "Brembo." Did 95 and smooth as silk!

 

I'm a big fan of PB blast. . .that stuff seems to loosen more than WD-40 or liquid wrench.

 

The little screws in the rotors are put there by the factory to hold them in place on the assembly line, they are not needed afterwards! Drill them out and be done with them.

 

This. They aren't needed.

To easily remove, just drill them out.

And never, NEVER, EVER use a torque wrench to break loose bolts, nuts or lugs of any kind.

 

Reference please.

 

Torque wrenches are designed for precise torquing/tightening of fasteners. They are not to be used as breaker bars or ratchets to break loose tightened bolting.

 

Like I said, reference please.

 

Torque wrenches are not made to do that job...They have a loosen function for those reverse thread bolts. I never use mine since it did cost a pretty penny...Matco aint cheap. Over time if you keep using tq wrenches like that you can throw off the calibration. I have a few different sized breaker bars for loosening bolts...If they break they dont cost me much to replace at all.

 

Exactly ! I found that out the hard way on my old TL

 

What size and type of drill bit did you guys use to drill out those damn screws?

 

I forgot but if you have any laying around just use a smaller one to start the hole then use a drill bit slightly smaller then the head for the rest of the way since the screws are countersunk. I just used a small one to start the pilot hole then a slightly bigger one to break the head of the screw. After that pulled off the old rotor and drilled the remaining out of the hole. Sometimes you might get lucky and knock them loose so all you might need are some pliers to get a grip and spin them out.

 

Since nobody made mention of your rounded nuts (that sounds funny)...., go down to Sears or equivalent and buy a flare nut wrench...they are made for applications like this; they contact the nut in more than just two places

 

Update: Finally managed to get all of the rotors off and the new ones on.
Couple of points: Resorted to drilling the screws out...fastest and easiest method. Rotors need to have the shit wacked out of them to come off the studs. Great tip I found, remove the brake line retaining bolt and screw it into
the rotors bolt holes to pop to rotor off the hub.

Now the bad: Right rear rotor appears to be scraping the dust shield and is pretty annoying. Lastly, I wasn't able to get the flare nut wrench to fit the brake line nut that I rounded off, so I think I'm just going to admit defeat and take it to Marcus at Heeltoe.

Final tally: The cost of 4 rotors, pads, and SS lines, new Dewalt drill, drill bit set, impact wrench, impact driver, new lug nuts, flare nut wrenches, brake fluid, and probably more.

 

You can bend out the dust shield and sucks to hear about rounding those bolts off. Autozone carries the flare nut tools cheap if not they let you rent them too as i recall now. But at least its a learning experience.

 

SR-71TL, good to hear you completed most of the brake replacement. Don't feel too bad. I've accumulated more tools than I really need with many of my DIY projects. On the rounded brake line nut, you might want to try Vise Grips (locking pliers).

 

but now that you have the tools, you can do more DIY

 

^Haha, that is how I justified it to myself. I used to have a really well stocked garage a few years back, but circumstances dictated thinning out my tool selection. I am already considering the next upgrade (leaning towards Race Pipe). I hate paying someone to do something I can do on my own. Plus, now I can do rotors, pads and lines much easier the next time around or help out fellow Aziners. A good learning experience.

 

Just make sure you have that flare nut wrench so you dont round off that bolt again! lol.

 

^it still rounded off the nut.