Brake issue
#1
Brake issue
My left rear wheel chewed through a new set of pads in a month and a half. Only the one side pads were worn so i replaced the pads and rotor. When i first put the pads on for the first few weeks i could alway smell the pads. After researching it, i chalked it up to the ceramic pads i put on and people saying that for a while, they smell. Well now they are completely gone and chewing the rotor again. Is the caliper bad? What else could it be?
#2
Team Owner
This is becoming very common. Sounds like either the caliper piston or sliding pins are stuck.
#3
Racer
Welcome to the club. Good luck!
For your reading pleasure/research:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ghlight=brakes
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ghlight=brakes
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/sticking-rear-caliper-834278/
Cliffs Notes:
For your reading pleasure/research:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ghlight=brakes
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ghlight=brakes
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/sticking-rear-caliper-834278/
Cliffs Notes:
- no magic bullet found yet
- some have replaced rotors, calipers, brake lines, pads, only to have the problem remain or come back months to a year and a half later
- some have replaced some or all of these parts and it has seemed to fix the issue
- many have asked about the proportioning valve and/or master cylinder, but if you're like me, the fronts don't overheat like the rears do and that doesn't seem to be the problem
#4
Pro
Just make sure the caliper pins aren't frozen, and if not I'd replaced that caliper and make sure you bleed it well. I like to fill the caliper up with brake fluid, and open the bleeder prior to installing it in the car. Then install it and bleed it. I've never seen so many people have an issue with calipers until recently.
#5
First make sure slide pins a greased good and not stuck. If thats not it check your caliper. Open the bleeder and try to run it in with a c-clamp and see if it goes in hard. You may as well replace the brake hose. There only $25 and more than likely that is your issue. It probably collapsed on the inside.
#6
I just went through a similar situation. When inspected, my calipers seemed to be functioning just fine. (Dealer even looked at them twice and noticed no problems) Long story short, I replaced everything except for the caliper and was still having the same problem.As a last ditch effort I replaced the calipers this weekend and all is well.
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#9
Race Director
#10
Team Owner
Agreed, Turbonut, it's perfectly fine to replace one caliper at a time.
To the rest...
The need to bleed the system is based on time and climate, mileage isn't that important. It's not a one size fits all recommendation just like 5w-20 oil is not the best oil for Alaska and Phoenix climates. If you live in a humid area it's best to flush the system more often.
I run a fluid with a very high wet boiling point because no system is free of moisture so I feel this spec is more indicative of what we will experience in the real world. The boiling point still goes down the more water that gets in the system and considering mine occasionally see high temps, I change every 1-2 years. It's so cheap and so easy to do. Pad fade is one thing. Fluid boiling is much worse.
Seeing rust and crap in the rear calipers just might be a clue that you need to change fluid more often lol. As I said, the rear calipers seem to be the catch can of the brake system. I guess you can go by the manual, after all, we never have any frozen rear brakes around here.
To the rest...
The need to bleed the system is based on time and climate, mileage isn't that important. It's not a one size fits all recommendation just like 5w-20 oil is not the best oil for Alaska and Phoenix climates. If you live in a humid area it's best to flush the system more often.
I run a fluid with a very high wet boiling point because no system is free of moisture so I feel this spec is more indicative of what we will experience in the real world. The boiling point still goes down the more water that gets in the system and considering mine occasionally see high temps, I change every 1-2 years. It's so cheap and so easy to do. Pad fade is one thing. Fluid boiling is much worse.
Seeing rust and crap in the rear calipers just might be a clue that you need to change fluid more often lol. As I said, the rear calipers seem to be the catch can of the brake system. I guess you can go by the manual, after all, we never have any frozen rear brakes around here.
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#11
Instructor
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#12
Suzuka Master
dude! there is no reason whatsoever to replace calipers in pairs! It is a hydraulic press. the rotors, pads and shoes ok, the steel casting that allows the hydraulic pressure to be transferred thru the pads to the rotor..........nope. there is no such thing as a minute leak in a hydraulic system under pressure. the moisture is typically absorbed into the fluid in the master cylinder. A three year change is fine unless your tracking the car
#13
Team Owner
There's something a out the rear calipers, maybe they're the low point in the system, I don't know, but I've seen more rusted nasty crap come out of the rears than the fronts. From the time the bottle is opened the fluid begins absorbing moisture and the boiling point begins going down. How much is acceptable is determined by the operating temperature. The last thing you want is brakes that feel great one second and are gone the next. I try to eliminate everything that can go wrong because based on my life experiences if it can go wrong it will for me. That's one of the reasons I try to change mine at least every couple years. The other reason is contaminates. While there's very little, it doesn't take much corrosion to do bad things such as cause seized rear calipers.
No need to do calipers in pairs, the surface area of the piston determines the force. Friction isn't a concern because it will affect the retraction of the piston and show up as excessive wear and heat long before it changes apply pressure. Leaks will show up as a sinking pedal, even very small leaks. I agree that if we're talking about a 300,000 mile car where the piston bore has worn out due to normal wear and tear that the other side is probably worn too.
No need to do calipers in pairs, the surface area of the piston determines the force. Friction isn't a concern because it will affect the retraction of the piston and show up as excessive wear and heat long before it changes apply pressure. Leaks will show up as a sinking pedal, even very small leaks. I agree that if we're talking about a 300,000 mile car where the piston bore has worn out due to normal wear and tear that the other side is probably worn too.
#14
Instructor
dude! there is no reason whatsoever to replace calipers in pairs! It is a hydraulic press. the rotors, pads and shoes ok, the steel casting that allows the hydraulic pressure to be transferred thru the pads to the rotor..........nope. there is no such thing as a minute leak in a hydraulic system under pressure. the moisture is typically absorbed into the fluid in the master cylinder. A three year change is fine unless your tracking the car
#16
Racer
He's saying if one rear caliper is crudded up & stuck that the other side is probably nearly in the same condition, preventive maintenance. What's wrong about that?? Not a bad plan if you're keeping the car.
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ekxtreem (03-27-2013)
#17
oops is that your face?
iTrader: (3)
solved the problem so far for me. I found that my ebrake shoes were hanging up and had to sand them down with 60 grit sand paper till the rotor spun freely. then did the same to the other rear brake setup. almost forgot, I did go around and greased all my slid pins as I found alot of them even in the front were sticking. check ur slid pins before spending more money
#18
Team Owner
The ebrake has an adjustment for the shoes, no need to sand them. One thing I found is you need to break the ebrake in if you want good holding power. If it only gets used when the car is parked it will never break in. Pulling it gently while moving for a few seconds at a time will help it hold much better.
#19
Race Director
solved the problem so far for me. I found that my ebrake shoes were hanging up and had to sand them down with 60 grit sand paper till the rotor spun freely. then did the same to the other rear brake setup. almost forgot, I did go around and greased all my slid pins as I found alot of them even in the front were sticking. check ur slid pins before spending more money
The e-brake has nothing to do with the rear calipers....
Last edited by nfnsquared; 03-27-2013 at 03:30 PM.
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