redsox68

First let me say that what you're about to hear is completely idiotic and immature,I'm well aware of it and feel like a tool.

I was at a complete stop in my 05 tl automatic, turned off the traction control, put it in sport shift and gunned it. The car never went anywhere. It sounded like something dropped, the engine rev's but the car doesn't move. I put it in neutral and pushed it while a friend steered it. I had to press the shift lock to put it in park and the car made a terrible clicking noise.

I know how dumb this whole thing was but did I blow the transmission? If so is it going to cost around 4000?Thank you for any help you all can provide.

Also the car has 78000 miles on it

vietxquangstah

iTrader: (7)

Are you leaving any other information out?

I don't understand why the trans would take a shit on you by just simply putting it into sports shift mode and turning traction control off and flooring it..

You are either really unlucky or leaving out other details.

Did you hold the brake pedal and rev it up to a few thousand RPMs and than let off the brake to try and get a better launch? That's bad for the auto trans

redsox68

Honestly I might have had my foot on the brake for a second only to make sure I was at a complete stop but no I didn't rev it up and then let the brake go. Does it sound like its blown?

pohljm

pull codes, when was fluid changed last?

Will Y.

VSA, Drive or other indicator lights stay on? Get an error code?
Let us know the error code that shows up on the reader.

Otherwise, sounds like the shifter sensor or shift lock solenoid to me, esp. if the clicking was from the shifter console area-- other members have had issues where the shifter doesn't shift or SportShift doesn't work, etc.

G/L.

carz0159

when you turn the car on, ad shift out of park, does the speedo move?

ez12a

did you get under the car and check your axles yet? though the whole shift lock thing is not normal, unless you had the key out of the ignition with the car in D (not sure if it matters since i have a 6 MT).

I hate cars

This is where he should be starting. If the speedo moves in park but the car goes nowhere and it clicks when putting it in park to where you have to turn the engine off to get it into park, it probably broke an axle.

Project_CLean

iTrader: (2)

I was going to vote axle

I hate cars

Sould've said drive, not park.

redsox68

UPDATE:
I got the car towed today,when the tow truck driver put the tl on the flatbed there was a axle balancer that had broken off. The tranny fluid was changed in 2010 right before I got the car.When I got it to the tansmission shop and gave the mechanic the piece that had broken off he said he I probably broke the front axle. If that's the case what should it cost to fix?

Thank you all for your help!

pohljm

Alot less than a transmission

carz0159

the shop i went to replaced both axles or so they claim for $300

I hate cars

That would be a good price for just one axle. I'm guessing they went used. Nothing wrong with used, from the comments around here, used OEM axles seem to be better than new aftermarket axles.

redsox68

Sure enough it was the axle,315 bucks later and I was on the road. What a relief!

YeuEmMaiMai

^ next time don't try and brake torque the car, stepping on the gas only should NOT snap an axle. Those OEM axles are pretty much bullet proof for a 270hp car

I hate cars

Brake torquing the car won't put any additional strain on the axles. The ECU severely limits throttle when power braking to under half throttle. Plus it preloads the whole drivetrain so there's less shock. Now if the power braking causes wheel hop you're putting more stress on the axles. I'm not suggesting power braking is good for the car.

YeuEmMaiMai

axles don't just snap from stepping on the gas hard.....and turning off traction control defeats the ecu limitation of power to prevent wheel slip. TCS Off means just that... Turn off the TCS in the TL and brake torque it and tell me it does not hurt the car....

ez12a

glad you got it repaired for cheap! Sometimes it's the simplest thing.

I hate cars

There's no limitation to power until wheel slip is detected. Once slip occurs traction is reduced as is the load on the axles. TCS is reactive, not proactive.

Brake torquing does not hurt the axles. It will generate a lot of heat in the trans but does nothing to axles. The TL is severely limited by the ECU when powerbraking. Judging by the amount of vacuum still being pulled with the accelerator pedal on the floor when powerbraking it's probably somewhere around 1/4 throttle. It does not go full throttle until your foot comes off the brake. So no, powerbraking does not hurt the axles one bit. I'm sure the programming is there to protect the transmission and so we don't have any runaway Toyota style incidents. The fiancee's Murano does the same thing. I can floor it and just barely tap the brakes just enough to trigger the brake lights and the power is cut almost completely.

Shock and turning the steering wheel is what kills axles that's why the 6mt cars go through axles much more often. The auto cars are gentler on the axles due to the torque converter softening everything. Powerbraking preloads the axles and reduces shock.

Turning the steering wheel while accelerating hard puts lots of stress and wear on the axles. If the car is lowered, especially slammed, it's the same thing as having the steering wheel slightly turned all the time. When the axle is not straight due to either lowering or the steering wheel being turned it's also in a weakened state. This is a trait of all FWD cars with CV joints. I've always taken it easy when pulling out with the wheels turned and I try not to give it much throttle until the wheels are almost straight.

Another thing to think about, when TCS kicks in and it's bad enough to brake one or both wheels, not only are you essenially powerbraking but you're doing so without as much power limitation as when the brakes are applied by the driver and you're shocking the shit out of the axles with the pulsing of the ABS and the engine trying to overcome the brakes.

You can argue since traction coefficient of the tires goes down when there's slippage and assuming the TCS balances it on the edge of traction, there's actually MORE stress with TCS activated.

YeuEmMaiMai

forgive me but you did not read what the OP said
TCS was off and as such, ECU does not limit power, it will go all out... and my reply was there had to be something else that caused the axle to snap.

I have a 2002 CLS with headers and I have done many a rapid start with TCS off on that car and 119K later both axles are prestine... OEM axle should never snap just from gunning the engine from a stop... I agree with you that TCS would under normal conditions with TCS ON limit wheel slip (retard throttle, timing, and apply front brakes as needed)

I hate cars

I read what he wrote. My post was in response to your post below stating that the VSA being off along with brake torquing hurts the car....

And this:

I explained why brake torquing and having the VSA off does not put more stress on the axles unless there's wheel hop. I explained how under some conditions stress on the axles can be higher with VSA on. I also mentioned that if the axle is at an angle such the car being slammed or the steering wheel turned, the axles are weakened because we didn't know at the time if the wheels were straight or not when the axle broke.

It should also be mentioned that hp does not matter nearly as much as traction and weight when it comes to axle stress. Traction is the fuse in the system.

His axles broke because more than likely they were worn and ready to go anyway. It had nothing to do with VSA or power braking. Axles break all the time, more often on the 6mt cars due to the additional shock of the clutch and lack of any preloading on the drivetrain.

pohljm

The ECU absolutely pulls throttle when powerbraking. no question about it. TCS on or off, no difference. And the statement "axle to snap" is really not accurate description of the failure. A CV joint that is part of the axle let go and that is easily achieved from normal wear and tear or increased wear due to improper geometry and or changing the geometry after the joint has been in service for along time at a different geometry.