car is in storage (garage) and a week later the battery went out without starting the car at all, this time i bought a new battery and started it up everyday for at least a month and just yesterday it died. after all the reading on dead batteries on this site, if i remove #6 fuse (hfl) has this proven to not drain the battery for most of us?

...other option is get a new battery since the battery has a 3 year warranty, but i rather not go that route everytime it does this.

if there is anything that i can do myself i will before i take it to the dealership.

 

I'd get another new battery.

What battery is your 2nd one?

The one that died after a month?

 

Starting the car and letting it idle a bit daily won't put enough back in the battery . It will eventually die.

Have you done like suggested in the other threads, make sure all your terminals are clean. Not just visually but mechanically. In other words sand or wire brush them.

I run a battery tender on mine when its sits and I was supprised that when fully charged I started it last Feb and let it run for close to a 1/2 hour to warm the moisture out of everything.

I figured it would be charged right up . Nope , the tender went in the red ( charge mode ) then an hour later went to mtce mode ( green).

 

Kirkland battery purchased from Costco

i will probably remove the #6 fuse and see how far this will last

 

since the car is in storage, why not leave the battery disconnected?
or are you trying to find the root of the problem?

 

trying to find the problenm and trying to locate where the fuse for the hfl is.

 

IF you ahve a current drain on a circuit, you could try to isolate which circuit to narrow down the problem. I would start at the fuse box, or A fuse box, and remove a fuse (not a relay) and put an amp meter in series in the circuit. And just look for an current readings. But to do this, I would turn everything off.. Including bulbs. Check each fused circuit.

 

six, under dash

 

Six underdash says its for interior lights correct? I was hoping n looking for hfl

 

Oh ye of little faith.....

You can also access the unit itself in the roof console and disconnect it at the connector.

 

thank you

 

I am having a similar problem with my TL. The other day I went to move my car into the sun so that the snow would melt off of it and was able to move it no problem. Parked it and realized that I had some snow build up in my wheel wells, so I opened the doors and grabbed my ice scraper to nock it off. When done I went to lock the doors with my remote and nothing. I tried to start the car and had no power at all. Got a jump and the car started and the battery held a charged (it ran for about 30 min and started right back up). I though this was strange and thought nothing of it. The next day the car started no problem and I was able to drive to work. As soon as I got to work and cut the ignition there was no power in the car again. So I figured the battery was shot, got a jump and went and replaced the battery, this was yesterday. Car worked fine for the rest of the night. This morning I went to start the car to go to work and it started to crank (for about a second) but once again had no power. I've never seen anything like this and its really annoying. Any suggestions on what to check?

 

I am starting to believe that it is my alternator. Going to go jump it later and pull the (+) terminal and go to autozone later to have it tested.

 

Have you cleaned the cables and terminals?

 

Do you know how to check the current draw while off? IIRC the draw on a TSB'd HFL is 25mA. If you pull the fuse, it should drop.

There is a DIY capacitor replacement fix if your dealer won't do it or if you are like me and have modded to the point where nothing would be covered.

 

Your descriptions of sudden loss of ALL power multiple times tell me it's a connection issue or a bad cable.

As Jesstzn said, clean and re-tighten your battery terminals. Don't just look at them and assume they are good. The Acura battery connectors don't seem to fit aftermarket battery terminals all that well, especially the positive connector.

And yes, to rule out other possibilities, you should have both the battery and charging system tested.

One more note, if you have a bad HFL causing the standard 200mA drain, it can kill a battery overnight.

 

Thanks for the replys guys. My brother-in-law was able to get over there and check it out for me. He said that the (-) connection was oxidized and was causing the problem. He was able to see the arc that caused the connection for me the couple of times it did start. He was able clean everything off and all seems fine now. He did test the battery and alternator and said they are good.

On another note: how can I tell if I have the bad HFL causing the standard 200mA drain problem? I cannot currently connect any phones to my HFL so there is some issue with it.

 

It sounds like you need a new alternator. New battery shouldn't die unless you have a bad alternator.

 

I think he found the issue

 

I'll say.

Honda/Acura really did us a dis-service with the battery terminal on this particular cable assembly. All the other components on it are great - the fuse and starter ends, the vibration restraint points, the covering. And then to give us a cheasy poorly fitting piece of copper ring - what a joke.

The Honda Accords are having the same problems...