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hey guys I noticed my battery keep dying after a day or two of not driving. I had a starting issue a month ago where i replaced the starter, new battery, corroded wires, and removed the HFL. now this battery draining issue. I been testing the fuses under the hood and when i pull the "Backup ACC" fuse the tester dims. Im not clear which components is linked to the Backup ACC. help please!!
P.S. this is my third time posting up the same thread... I am sounding desperate now...
So no one has any info about the Back up ACC fuse under the hood? or what components that may be attached to it? when I pulled the fuse and start the car, the clock, radio, interior lights doesnt come on and the heater/ac come on automatic and i cant control the temp or fan speed.
Checking for current draw is not that easy. You have to wait till the ECM goes into sleep mode, usually 15 minutes. You need to have a digital multimeter and set it to ohms. Place the probes, one on a good ground and one secured to the negative cable. Open the drivers door and remove the light switch from the door frame and use a screw driver to set the door latch to lock. You also need to use a screwdriver and push the hood latch to close. Set the alarm with the remote.
After 15-20 minutes it will now be in sleep mode. Turn on the DMM and remove the negative cable. The car is ow grounding through your multimeter and will show how much draw you have. A TL should have 75 milliamperes or less draw in sleep mode, if more it will kill a battery.
You will likely have a draw of more than 1 amp. Now start pulling fuses one at a time, when the DMM drops to less than 75 milliamperes that is the circuit your current draw is on. Now the fun starts, you have to figure out which component is causing the draw. Re-install fuse. Disconnect each cmponent one at a time until you figure out the bad component.
thanks for the input, Im always glad to work on the TL and discover something new, just as long as its not broken. I will get the necessary equipment and give it a shot.. Ill let you know how it goes. honestly im getting tired of disconnecting the battery every night so it doesn't drain...
Are you 100% sure the a/c clutch relay is not sticking? Can you reach down and try and spin the outer end of the ac compressor? It should spin freely, if not the relay is likely stuck on.
hmmmm.... a/c clutch? I dont even know where to look for a/c compressor. but if the relays (black fuses, labeled omron) under the hood doesn't dim with the tester as i pull them out, would that determine if it is the a/c relay?... btw thanks makk... I've been only getting some assistance from you.
Front of engine, very bottom component. Use a long pry bar or broom handle and try and spin the outer most part of the compressor. Google image ac compressor and it will make sense.
I removed the HFL and AC relay last year, didn't change anything. Now that the weather is warm again where I live, I'm going to give that another shot in case I did something incorrectly. Fairly certain I pulled the correct relay, but just going to double check today.
I'm tired of not having my power mirrors/interior lights/key fob working because the fuse is pulled.
I removed the HFL and AC relay last year, didn't change anything. Now that the weather is warm again where I live, I'm going to give that another shot in case I did something incorrectly. Fairly certain I pulled the correct relay, but just going to double check today.
I'm tired of not having my power mirrors/interior lights/key fob working because the fuse is pulled.
Appreciate the response.
What year is your car?
The ease and speed at which you troubleshoot your problem will depend on your knowledge and the tools you have available. It would be faster if you had an amp probe and DMM, but you can always just unplug stuff until the current draw is gone.
ANYWAY...assuming you're current draw is through the No. 15 Backup ACC fuse. You'll need to plug the Underhood No. 15 fuse back in, and then one-by-one remove the Under-dash fuses No. 5 - No. 9 and Underhood fuse No. 7 until you find the one that's causing the draw. From there you're going to have to dig further to isolate the component that is causing the current drain.
Don't forget to depress the door ajar switch.
2004 Acura stuff below. Only the MICS wiring diagram is provided. Other diagrams might be needed depending on which fuse is causing the drain.
Last edited by El_Cheapo; Jun 23, 2020 at 02:23 PM.
The ease and speed at which you troubleshoot your problem will depend on your knowledge and the tools you have available. It would be faster if you had an amp probe and DMM, but you can always just unplug stuff until the current draw is gone.
ANYWAY...assuming you're current draw is through the No. 15 Backup ACC fuse. You'll need to plug the Underhood No. 15 fuse back in, and then one-by-one remove the Under-dash fuses No. 5 - No. 9 and Underhood fuse No. 7 until you find the one that's causing the draw. From there you're going to have to dig further to isolate the component that is causing the current drain.
Don't forget to depress the door ajar switch.
2004 Acura stuff below. Only the MICS wiring diagram is provided. Other diagrams might be needed depending on which fuse is causing the drain.
i just checked, it's actually fuse #6 under dash. If I plug the fuse back in, I'd have to go through each component and try unplugging to find it? Is there a faster way to do it with a multimeter? I understand voltage, current and resistance, just need some guidance on how to trace it down.
start unplugging is the easiest route for you honestly...
From a previous post of mine, see below. I guess I should try disconnecting the lights and see if that helps.
My 08 TL has been dying for the last couple of days. I thought it was because I wasn't starting it for 4 or 5 days, but I went out today and tried to start it and nothing. No lights on the dash, battery was completely dead. Jump started the car, leet it charge a little, then shut the car off, disconnected negative terminal and checked how much current was being drawn. It was cycling between 1.3-1.4 amps to about 0.300 amps. I tried disconnecting the bluetooth module, the garage buttons, everything in that overhead unit and I disconnected the AC relay (I think it was the AC relay) and it was still drawing the same amount of power
From a previous post of mine, see below. I guess I should try disconnecting the lights and see if that helps.
My 08 TL has been dying for the last couple of days. I thought it was because I wasn't starting it for 4 or 5 days, but I went out today and tried to start it and nothing. No lights on the dash, battery was completely dead. Jump started the car, leet it charge a little, then shut the car off, disconnected negative terminal and checked how much current was being drawn. It was cycling between 1.3-1.4 amps to about 0.300 amps. I tried disconnecting the bluetooth module, the garage buttons, everything in that overhead unit and I disconnected the AC relay (I think it was the AC relay) and it was still drawing the same amount of power
Cycling on/off is normal. The current should settle down to ~0.05 Amps
The No. 6 fuse controls most of the interior lights so you can put the car in a dark area to troubleshoot. Close all the doors and trunk. Leave the trunk fold-down access open. Wait until the car modules settle and see if any of the lights remain on
If that doesn't work then you'll need a wiring diagram to locate all the components connected to fuse No. 6. Then you'll need to disconnect one by one until you isolate the cause. Start with the easiest accessible one.
Cycling on/off is normal. The current should settle down to ~0.05 Amps
The No. 6 fuse controls most of the interior lights so you can put the car in a dark area to troubleshoot. Close all the doors and trunk. Leave the trunk fold-down access open. Wait until the car modules settle and see if any of the lights remain on
If that doesn't work then you'll need a wiring diagram to locate all the components connected to fuse No. 6. Then you'll need to disconnect one by one until you isolate the cause. Start with the easiest accessible one.
how long after shutting down should the current settle? This would continue until my bartery was dead.
It should go down after 5-10 minutes, assuming no key in ignition and all door and hood closed. You can close the hood latch with screwdriver if you need access under hood during the test.
Turns out last year when I checked the bluetooth module, I did it incorrectly. When I check it now after the bluetooth module is disconnected with the same fuse plugged back in, as I connect the multimeter between the negative cable and the battery post, the current immediately goes up to 1.3A as I believe the systems are all powering up into standby mode for about 10 seconds and then drops down to 30 mA after that and stays there for at least 2 minutes, and assuming forever after that, as I held the multimeter there for only two minutes.
I'll update if my battery is still dying.
Thanks for all your help! I finally have all my comforts back in the car
