Parasitic battery drain
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10th Gear
Joined: Aug 2009
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Parasitic battery drain
My 2007 Acura TL has gone through many batteries with several trips to the dealership only to have them tell me there is nothing wrong and that the battery must be the issue. I checked the voltage across each fuse and found that there is current flowing through about 3 fuses when the car is in sleep mode. Under the hood the "backup" fuse is registering 0.2 mV, everything else was reading 0. Inside the car, again the backup fuse was showing current registering 3.4 mV. Also the "interior lights" fuse was registering 2.7 volts. This is probably enough draw to cause a battery to drain over the course of a couple days if not started. I do not have any wiring diagrams so was looking for help on troubleshooting. What all is linked to the "backup" fuse? I know the trunk light is going out when closed so that should not be an issue. Also, how about the "interior lights" fuse? There were no lights on inside the car so I am not sure why my DMM is picking up voltage across that fuse. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Jeff
Thanks,
Jeff
9th Gear
Joined: May 2005
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Hey I have a 2006 TL and had the same issue, my battery kept drawing power when it was off and would constantly kill the battery I had one issue and then another that both killed the battery.
Check your HFL and see if its working. If its not it could be the HFL Unit it busted and constantly trying to boot up. if thats the case you'd have to remove the bluetooth module.
Or If you use cassettes or a cassette adapter see if its working properly. If its having issues turn off your car and see if it sounds like it is still trying to play.
Both of those were my issues but yours might be different either way it doesnt hurt to check those out.
Check your HFL and see if its working. If its not it could be the HFL Unit it busted and constantly trying to boot up. if thats the case you'd have to remove the bluetooth module.
Or If you use cassettes or a cassette adapter see if its working properly. If its having issues turn off your car and see if it sounds like it is still trying to play.
Both of those were my issues but yours might be different either way it doesnt hurt to check those out.
Thread Starter
10th Gear
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***update***
I checked the amperage this time at the battery while disconnecting one fuse at a time. When both the "backup" and "interior lights" fuses are connected i get some strange readings. The amperage sets at .21 amps for about 20 seconds, then jumps to .63 amps for 5 seconds, then to .32 amps for 3 seconds and back to .21 amps for another 20 seconds. This cycle repeats over and over. When I disconnect the "interior lights" fuse the amperage drops to about .04 amps steady. Plugged the "interior lights" fuse back in and took out the "backup" fuse and the amperage jumped up to .21 amps for about 20 seconds and then jumped to .27 amps for about 7 seconds and then this cycle continued to repeat. It appears most draw is coming from the "interior lights" circuit in a sinusoidal pattern. I'm not an electrical engineer but it seems odd that when both fuses are plugged in the draw jumps as high as .63 and without the "backup" fuse it only achieves 0.27 amps. If the two circuits are independent from each other why is the draw so much higher when both fuses are plugged in (i.e. 0.27 + 0.04 max amperage when measured independently does not add up to the max when (0.63) measured together).
I checked the amperage this time at the battery while disconnecting one fuse at a time. When both the "backup" and "interior lights" fuses are connected i get some strange readings. The amperage sets at .21 amps for about 20 seconds, then jumps to .63 amps for 5 seconds, then to .32 amps for 3 seconds and back to .21 amps for another 20 seconds. This cycle repeats over and over. When I disconnect the "interior lights" fuse the amperage drops to about .04 amps steady. Plugged the "interior lights" fuse back in and took out the "backup" fuse and the amperage jumped up to .21 amps for about 20 seconds and then jumped to .27 amps for about 7 seconds and then this cycle continued to repeat. It appears most draw is coming from the "interior lights" circuit in a sinusoidal pattern. I'm not an electrical engineer but it seems odd that when both fuses are plugged in the draw jumps as high as .63 and without the "backup" fuse it only achieves 0.27 amps. If the two circuits are independent from each other why is the draw so much higher when both fuses are plugged in (i.e. 0.27 + 0.04 max amperage when measured independently does not add up to the max when (0.63) measured together).
I am trying to figure it all out myself. I am consistently drawing about 600mA.
Those changes you are seeing is somewhat normal. If you check the interior when you open and close the door, the key area and dash stay lit for a period of time then dim out.
There is a HFL issue which you can remove by pulling out the sunroof switch, upper console and 4 screws that holds the actual unit. There are several threads on this.
I've currently got the HFL, Navi Display and Head Unit out and still draw more than the 26mA I should see.
It's too damn cold in my garage to do anymore work but I will eventually figure it out. I do know that fuse 7 is the magical one for me.
BTW, mine is an 06.
Those changes you are seeing is somewhat normal. If you check the interior when you open and close the door, the key area and dash stay lit for a period of time then dim out.
There is a HFL issue which you can remove by pulling out the sunroof switch, upper console and 4 screws that holds the actual unit. There are several threads on this.
I've currently got the HFL, Navi Display and Head Unit out and still draw more than the 26mA I should see.
It's too damn cold in my garage to do anymore work but I will eventually figure it out. I do know that fuse 7 is the magical one for me.
BTW, mine is an 06.
1st Gear
Joined: Jan 2016
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This has been affecting my '07 TL for years. First the HFL died. I assumed that's what was killing batteries. I disconnected the HFL, still killing batteries. I pulled out the interior fuse for the HFL/Interior lights/etc. Still killing batteries. I replaced the HFL with a replacement HFL bought on Amazon. HFL worked fine again but still killing batteries. Bought a top of the line Optima battery last Sunday. Monday am go to start the car for work and the brand new battery is drained and car will not turn over. A jump start always works and if I drive the car at least every 16 hours or so it's fine. Leave it for 20-24 hours or more and it won't start.
FINALLY took it to an import shop this week (not the dealer) who found two issues:
1. The A/C Relay was stuck so the A/C compressor was trying to click on even when the car was off causing a large power draw.
2. The HFL is drawing ~ 2amps when the car is off.
They replaced the A/C relay and disconnected the HFL. Problem Solved. I have an aftermarket bluetooth Hands Free that plugs into the console power adapter that works fine and plays my itunes/etc.
FINALLY took it to an import shop this week (not the dealer) who found two issues:
1. The A/C Relay was stuck so the A/C compressor was trying to click on even when the car was off causing a large power draw.
2. The HFL is drawing ~ 2amps when the car is off.
They replaced the A/C relay and disconnected the HFL. Problem Solved. I have an aftermarket bluetooth Hands Free that plugs into the console power adapter that works fine and plays my itunes/etc.
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Joined: Jun 2011
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My 2008TL draining battery(Bluetooth HFL already disconnected)
Looks like Im having similar issues as you had. Few months back the acura dealer disconnected HFL to fix a battery drain, and now the problem is back.
Wondering how much you had to spend replace A/C relay.
Thanks,
Wondering how much you had to spend replace A/C relay.
Thanks,
This has been affecting my '07 TL for years. First the HFL died. I assumed that's what was killing batteries. I disconnected the HFL, still killing batteries. I pulled out the interior fuse for the HFL/Interior lights/etc. Still killing batteries. I replaced the HFL with a replacement HFL bought on Amazon. HFL worked fine again but still killing batteries. Bought a top of the line Optima battery last Sunday. Monday am go to start the car for work and the brand new battery is drained and car will not turn over. A jump start always works and if I drive the car at least every 16 hours or so it's fine. Leave it for 20-24 hours or more and it won't start.
FINALLY took it to an import shop this week (not the dealer) who found two issues:
1. The A/C Relay was stuck so the A/C compressor was trying to click on even when the car was off causing a large power draw.
2. The HFL is drawing ~ 2amps when the car is off.
They replaced the A/C relay and disconnected the HFL. Problem Solved. I have an aftermarket bluetooth Hands Free that plugs into the console power adapter that works fine and plays my itunes/etc.
FINALLY took it to an import shop this week (not the dealer) who found two issues:
1. The A/C Relay was stuck so the A/C compressor was trying to click on even when the car was off causing a large power draw.
2. The HFL is drawing ~ 2amps when the car is off.
They replaced the A/C relay and disconnected the HFL. Problem Solved. I have an aftermarket bluetooth Hands Free that plugs into the console power adapter that works fine and plays my itunes/etc.
1st Gear
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 1
Likes: 5
Battery drain SOLVED on my 07 TL Type S.......
So here is my story on what happened. My 07 has 210k on the odometer, been a great car for the most part. My blueooth HFL has not been working for the past 6 months, just says booting up. And my navigation will come up Disc Read Error quite frequently now. I drive this car about 6 days a week and everything has been fine.
But 3 weeks ago, we were at the hospital for the birth of our child, and the car sat in the driveway for 6 days without being started. So, the day I go back to work, I walk out of the house and the key fob won’t unlock the doors. Battery is dead. I figured with it just sitting, and a year and a half old battery, that maybe it just was getting time to replace it. So jumped it off, and drove to work and drove around Monday to see if it would charge up. It did charge up, and I started the car a few times and it was fine. Tuesday morning, come out to go to work, dead again. SO, jumped off again, got it to work Tuesday. After work I went and bought a new battery for it. Fixed right? Wrong. Friday morning, went to start it, dead again. Jumped it off and got to work.
After reading about the HFL in multiple threads on here, I unhooked the bluetooth/HFL completely Friday during lunch. Drove it around the rest of the day Friday and it seemed like it was ok. One thing I did notice was that my Air Conditioning wasn’t blowing very hard out of my center vents like it usually does, but I thought nothing of it. So the next day I come out to start the car to go golfing. Guess what? Dead again.
So during the weekend, my dad and myself spend a little time checking fuses. We too, like many others on here, find that fuse 15 underhood is the culprit. And further investigation also brings up fuses 5, 6, and 7 in the under dash fuse panel because fuse 15 under hood powers fuses 5,6,7,8,9 under the dash. Fuses number 6 and 7 are the most drain. Fuse number 5 is a pulsing drain, but not very much of one. Something I stumbled upon while checking all the fuses and relays, was that when the car was running, if I BARELY PRESSED ON THE A/C RELAY, it would make a click sound down at the AC clutch. However, there was no sort of battery drain when unplugging the AC relay. So I set that thought aside and focused on the other fuses again.
So for the next day or so, I unplugged fuse number 15 under my hood, and layed it aside in the fuse box each time I got out of my car to preserve the battery. This worked to get me by for the day. After reading more and more, and finding that others are still having this problem, I found someone who had the HOMELINK go bad in their TL, so during lunch break I went and unplugged my Homelink completely. So Homelink and HFL are now unplugged. Well I go to leave work and the battery is still very sluggish, and at this point I’m getting very frustrated. So I leave work and go to turn some AC on. But it won’t come out of the center vents again. I hear it blowing hard, but it’s not blowing out of the center vents at all. So I remember the RELAY that was clicking. I drive straight to the parts store, and buy a $6.82 A/C Relay. Plugged it in and trashed the old one. Leaving the parts store, the car starts, and I also have cold air blowing out of my center vents again. That night, I left the fuse number 15 plugged in......
NEXT MORNING, I go outside to go to work. THE CAR STARTS GREAT! Turned over easily like it used to. I drive it that day, no trouble. I get home and cross my fingers as I HOOK THE HOMELINK BACK UP. Come out the next morning. THE CAR STARTS UP AGAIN WITH NO TROUBLE!!!!!
The problem was the A/C RELAY IN THE UNDER HOOD FUSE BOX. My *theory* is that the AC relay was doing something to the ac controls in the nav/radio unit and causing fuse 6 and 7 to draw a tremendous amount..... I don’t know how or if that’s even possible, but I hope this helps someone with the same problem I had.
Now also keep in mind that I do still currently have my Bluetooth HFL unplugged, but i don’t really miss it bad enough to spend $400 on a new one.
-LB
So here is my story on what happened. My 07 has 210k on the odometer, been a great car for the most part. My blueooth HFL has not been working for the past 6 months, just says booting up. And my navigation will come up Disc Read Error quite frequently now. I drive this car about 6 days a week and everything has been fine.
But 3 weeks ago, we were at the hospital for the birth of our child, and the car sat in the driveway for 6 days without being started. So, the day I go back to work, I walk out of the house and the key fob won’t unlock the doors. Battery is dead. I figured with it just sitting, and a year and a half old battery, that maybe it just was getting time to replace it. So jumped it off, and drove to work and drove around Monday to see if it would charge up. It did charge up, and I started the car a few times and it was fine. Tuesday morning, come out to go to work, dead again. SO, jumped off again, got it to work Tuesday. After work I went and bought a new battery for it. Fixed right? Wrong. Friday morning, went to start it, dead again. Jumped it off and got to work.
After reading about the HFL in multiple threads on here, I unhooked the bluetooth/HFL completely Friday during lunch. Drove it around the rest of the day Friday and it seemed like it was ok. One thing I did notice was that my Air Conditioning wasn’t blowing very hard out of my center vents like it usually does, but I thought nothing of it. So the next day I come out to start the car to go golfing. Guess what? Dead again.
So during the weekend, my dad and myself spend a little time checking fuses. We too, like many others on here, find that fuse 15 underhood is the culprit. And further investigation also brings up fuses 5, 6, and 7 in the under dash fuse panel because fuse 15 under hood powers fuses 5,6,7,8,9 under the dash. Fuses number 6 and 7 are the most drain. Fuse number 5 is a pulsing drain, but not very much of one. Something I stumbled upon while checking all the fuses and relays, was that when the car was running, if I BARELY PRESSED ON THE A/C RELAY, it would make a click sound down at the AC clutch. However, there was no sort of battery drain when unplugging the AC relay. So I set that thought aside and focused on the other fuses again.
So for the next day or so, I unplugged fuse number 15 under my hood, and layed it aside in the fuse box each time I got out of my car to preserve the battery. This worked to get me by for the day. After reading more and more, and finding that others are still having this problem, I found someone who had the HOMELINK go bad in their TL, so during lunch break I went and unplugged my Homelink completely. So Homelink and HFL are now unplugged. Well I go to leave work and the battery is still very sluggish, and at this point I’m getting very frustrated. So I leave work and go to turn some AC on. But it won’t come out of the center vents again. I hear it blowing hard, but it’s not blowing out of the center vents at all. So I remember the RELAY that was clicking. I drive straight to the parts store, and buy a $6.82 A/C Relay. Plugged it in and trashed the old one. Leaving the parts store, the car starts, and I also have cold air blowing out of my center vents again. That night, I left the fuse number 15 plugged in......
NEXT MORNING, I go outside to go to work. THE CAR STARTS GREAT! Turned over easily like it used to. I drive it that day, no trouble. I get home and cross my fingers as I HOOK THE HOMELINK BACK UP. Come out the next morning. THE CAR STARTS UP AGAIN WITH NO TROUBLE!!!!!
The problem was the A/C RELAY IN THE UNDER HOOD FUSE BOX. My *theory* is that the AC relay was doing something to the ac controls in the nav/radio unit and causing fuse 6 and 7 to draw a tremendous amount..... I don’t know how or if that’s even possible, but I hope this helps someone with the same problem I had.
Now also keep in mind that I do still currently have my Bluetooth HFL unplugged, but i don’t really miss it bad enough to spend $400 on a new one.
-LB
2nd Gear
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
First Post...
First post for me but i have been coming to these forums almost 5 years now to get information on both our Acura's. Stickerguy20 It's post like these that have saved me tons of money on repairs over the last few years. Just wanted to mention that I appreciate the detailed post. Awesome man... I was out of idea's or wasn't sure where to look next until I came across your post.
I have an 07 TL Base w/Nav and over the last week and a half I've been dealing with a weird battery drain. The only thing that stands out is that a few days before this started, I jump started a company vehicle with a completely dead battery. We jump started it I drove away good for the next day or so. Then out of the blue I go to start the car and nothing happens but the dash lights did come on like the key was in the II position. I returned the key back to the first position and restarted just fine. After the car started I noticed a message on the information screen between the gauges that said something along the lines of "Check Start System". Made a mental note and drove away. The next morning I leave for work at 6am and the car won't start. Jumped it and went to work. I then had to jump it to leave work. While connecting the cables i noticed that the connection to the terminal on the -- side was loose or had worked its way up the top narrow part of the terminal. So I think hell yeah that's the issue right.... ??? wrong, Strike 1. Car was dead the next morning. Jumped it went to work. I drive about 40 mins to work and mostly on the interstate so I should have had a decent charge after that morning commute. Car was dead at lunch. Jumped it went to Autozone to have them test the battery and alternator. About 15mins away mostly interstate. I replaced the battery about 4 months ago so its pretty new. Replaced the alternator my self last year and have had no issues. Both tested and passed at Autozone so ruled those out. When I got to Autozone I shut the car off because I knew Id' be able to jump it there but wanted to see if it was dead already, The car was only technically off for about 7mins so it really doesn't count but noted. Went to leave work 5 hours later and it started right up. Seemed like a good sign. Dead the next morning. So I remember reading on Acurazine about the Bluetooth module failing and drawing power. I stumbled across that over a year ago while trying to figure out why my phone wouldn't connect and the HFL would always show Booting... Since I wasn't experiencing battery drain i left the module in there. Today I read a post that mentioned that if your car has been off for a while, go and feel the spot where the module would be located. If it's warm then its probably drawing power while the car is off. Took all but 5 mins to get to it, disconnect it, and put the assembly back together. Easy task for anyone nervous about it. If you pay labor for someone to do that then you'd be pissed if you saw how easy it was!! Anyway, HFL Bluetooth module is disconnected at this point. There's nothing plugged into the power port and I try my best to always remember to shut off the AC when I turn off the car. Not sure if it's true or not but hard it was bad to have ac on at start. So I drive the car around come back home and let it sit and run. I'm pretty confidant at this point that the battery has a good charge and that Bluetooth module was the issue because it seemed too common. Come back out 3 hours later and its dead. Strike 2. This time it doesn't even click like it was completely dead. BUT the dash lights all came on at normal level and dome lights came on a little dim but brighter than I thought they should be. The lights outside the car flashed at a pretty normal level when I unlocked it. Put jumper cables on and it starts right up. Drove it around and came back will see what happens tomorrow morning. I will be replacing the AC Relay tomorrow and will report back to see if that corrects the issue. Gotta love when a cheap part fixes a troublesome issue! But then again if I've learned anything in the last few days it's don't get your hopes up!
Last edited by thoiboi; Oct 8, 2018 at 06:43 PM.
1st Gear
Joined: Dec 2018
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???
Did you try connecting the HFL after the a/c relay was replaced? I'm having all kinds of issues with my 06 Acura tl. I have to jump start it everyday. My dad disconnected my trunk light after my car set for 2 weeks thinking that was the problem after he pulled out the horn fuse because I wasn't around to tell him after jump-starting the car you have to put the key in the door to unlock it to make it stop alarming so he just ripped the fuse out then couldn't get the car to go in gear so told me to stick a screw driver down in the gear shifter to get it to go in gear like tow mode I guess idk but that whole fuse turned off cruise control and vsa so I put the stupid fuse back in and corrected all that but the stupid new battery keeps dieing and my dad won't be around for awhile and he has all the tools to test for the output. I thought I messed everything up because I changed the cabin air filter. Definitely wish I found this site back then means I had my side panel thing off and my glove box removed apparently all that wasn't necessary but I thought maybe I messed up the harness wiring somehow when I disconnected it from the glove box. My glove box light has never worked not does the right air control lights on the buttons or the middle console light but besides the point I guess. My a/c was having issues this summer I put freon in too much I guess my dad said the readings were all messed up he took some freon out and said that without tearing the compressor apart and cleaning some kind of metal shavings or something that was the best that could be done. The air hot or cold just doesn't seem to blow as hard as it should. Do you have any suggestions for me? My thing always says booting up now. I never use it so I could definitely go without the hfl. But if it's just the relay I would just fix that instead of undoing all that? Thank you in advance!
This has been affecting my '07 TL for years. First the HFL died. I assumed that's what was killing batteries. I disconnected the HFL, still killing batteries. I pulled out the interior fuse for the HFL/Interior lights/etc. Still killing batteries. I replaced the HFL with a replacement HFL bought on Amazon. HFL worked fine again but still killing batteries. Bought a top of the line Optima battery last Sunday. Monday am go to start the car for work and the brand new battery is drained and car will not turn over. A jump start always works and if I drive the car at least every 16 hours or so it's fine. Leave it for 20-24 hours or more and it won't start.
FINALLY took it to an import shop this week (not the dealer) who found two issues:
1. The A/C Relay was stuck so the A/C compressor was trying to click on even when the car was off causing a large power draw.
2. The HFL is drawing ~ 2amps when the car is off.
They replaced the A/C relay and disconnected the HFL. Problem Solved. I have an aftermarket bluetooth Hands Free that plugs into the console power adapter that works fine and plays my itunes/etc.
FINALLY took it to an import shop this week (not the dealer) who found two issues:
1. The A/C Relay was stuck so the A/C compressor was trying to click on even when the car was off causing a large power draw.
2. The HFL is drawing ~ 2amps when the car is off.
They replaced the A/C relay and disconnected the HFL. Problem Solved. I have an aftermarket bluetooth Hands Free that plugs into the console power adapter that works fine and plays my itunes/etc.
2nd Gear
Joined: Feb 2025
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Accura TL 2004 battery drain figured (sort of)
I have the similar problem that comes in every once in a while and then goes away. I tried everything suggested in this thread, none worked out. While I was diagnosing step by step, it went away, well sort of.
My parasitic current during sleep reaches up to 1A. It discharges battery very quickly. I took out HFL, entire internal lights, remove all black omron relays under hood, it was still there. My key icon keeps blinking. When ignition is turned off, engine runs backward for about 15 seconds. If start again, it cranks but engine does not ignite. And this happened with a brand new battery. Frustrating.
I rarely drive this car. Average is once in a week, very short distances. So after a while, it is possible that battery is drained because there was not enough driving time for alternator to compensate cranking current.
How did it get corrected? I left the charger, without disconnecting the battery for a long time, like 24 hours. I entered the radio and navigation codes at the beginning of this char operation. Current dropped to 180mA, which is acceptable, and all those problems disappeared.
But, how, why? My wild guess is following:
There may be a flaw in tempering firmware ( I am not sure actually, perhaps it is good thing for protection against real theft situation) that detects disconnected battery and it goes into a mode where it keeps checking the authenticity. First time you run it, everything is reset, so this part of the algorithm does not work yet. Second time though, it starts running, thinking that there is a tempering. To correct itself, battery voltage must be quite high like >13.8V and stays there for a while. With 1 A leakage, battery itself cannot maintain such a voltage and everything starts over. You need to keep charger connected.
Is 180mA good enough? For the time being. I have other negligible problems with this car, I need to fix those first, then check it out again. Until then, I need to keep watch on battery and charge it frequently. Perhaps I can acquire a solar panel large enough to keep battery charged even winter times.
My parasitic current during sleep reaches up to 1A. It discharges battery very quickly. I took out HFL, entire internal lights, remove all black omron relays under hood, it was still there. My key icon keeps blinking. When ignition is turned off, engine runs backward for about 15 seconds. If start again, it cranks but engine does not ignite. And this happened with a brand new battery. Frustrating.
I rarely drive this car. Average is once in a week, very short distances. So after a while, it is possible that battery is drained because there was not enough driving time for alternator to compensate cranking current.
How did it get corrected? I left the charger, without disconnecting the battery for a long time, like 24 hours. I entered the radio and navigation codes at the beginning of this char operation. Current dropped to 180mA, which is acceptable, and all those problems disappeared.
But, how, why? My wild guess is following:
There may be a flaw in tempering firmware ( I am not sure actually, perhaps it is good thing for protection against real theft situation) that detects disconnected battery and it goes into a mode where it keeps checking the authenticity. First time you run it, everything is reset, so this part of the algorithm does not work yet. Second time though, it starts running, thinking that there is a tempering. To correct itself, battery voltage must be quite high like >13.8V and stays there for a while. With 1 A leakage, battery itself cannot maintain such a voltage and everything starts over. You need to keep charger connected.
Is 180mA good enough? For the time being. I have other negligible problems with this car, I need to fix those first, then check it out again. Until then, I need to keep watch on battery and charge it frequently. Perhaps I can acquire a solar panel large enough to keep battery charged even winter times.
2nd Gear
Joined: Feb 2025
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Thanks for the response. I was not able to find my comments otherwise.
In fact, this did not solve my problem. I realized that 0.9A leak comes back again right after I turn on my key. I hear rattling sound under the dash before the ignition. If start the engine and stop it, engine continue to run for like 15 seconds. The leak comes back again. When I took a fuse out (I don't want to disclose which fuse it is for now but it is definitely related to MICU), leak current drops less than 50mA. It seems like MICU is reset and I can drive.
I can use any experience here.
In fact, this did not solve my problem. I realized that 0.9A leak comes back again right after I turn on my key. I hear rattling sound under the dash before the ignition. If start the engine and stop it, engine continue to run for like 15 seconds. The leak comes back again. When I took a fuse out (I don't want to disclose which fuse it is for now but it is definitely related to MICU), leak current drops less than 50mA. It seems like MICU is reset and I can drive.
I can use any experience here.
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