Acura TL 2004

| Timeline
- Brief period vehicle would pause momentarily while adjusting into first gear while cold, up to 5 seconds, every day.
- Month later; transition to warm weather, vehicle began having issues shifting to higher gears while in transit in a single day, delaying heavily by 1-3 seconds.
- Same day; vehicle began downshifting incorrectly, proving dangerous to the driver and larger components.
- Same day evening; extended driving, around 7 minutes, vehicle wont leave second gear while in transit; extended drivetime results in 0-response in transmission shifting.
- Introductory testing proves heat related. After cooling vehicle can casually shift to second gear, however impossible to higher gear if not cold. Delays still present.

| Repair Attempts
- First item replaced TCC (Torque Converter Clutch). Same behavior, OEM component re-installed.
- Second item replaced VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor). Same behavior, OEM component re-installed.

| Current Examination
- Removed the ECU/ECM/PCM (ie "Computer"). Reveals no "obvious errors" as an experienced iron.
- More closely examining cords/shielding however skeptical overheating would correlate to a short in relation to the issue.

| Questions
- Looking for general input on this type of error, finding the correlation between heat and the issue. Thank you!
- What are the odds the A1742 (POWER TRANSISTOR) on the ECU PCB is the issue, potentially overheating and causing power fluctuation issues resulting in this type of behavior?
- Second element, 15771 4122 A (Unidentified IC), also appears to be heat dissipating but less relevant to this type of issue.
- However unlikely, should both the TCC & VSS new replaced new instead of both being tested individually?

Thanks again for any feedback!
Will remain on this thread until the issue is resolved.

 

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Indeed as mentioned in the sticky thread, apologies for overlooking.
To credit, viewing the "overall" contributions to this segment of the forum it's clear many users are confused and misled to this section.
Not interested in elaborating.

Again, thanks for any help future views might provide outside moderator action at later date.
Cheers!

 

^
Just curious, is the ECU triggering any DTC's when your shifting issues present?
In addition, if / when you grow fatigued at trying to remedy this failing transmission, a BAYA 2006-07 (non-hybrid) Honda Accord automatic transmission will bolt up to the J32A3 block with a few component changes.

 

Super sweet intel, FYI. Master response.
Yes, the ECU threw a TCCS error.

To correct the previous post the,
"- TCCS (Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid), Same behavior, OEM component re-installed." *
was the component handled, and believe it was handled incorrectly. Only one of two elements were changed, the redundancy, not the element that keeps the fluids correctly dispersing.

Will know by tomorrow evening and report back with the results, and if not the TCCS (second attempt) it's the ECU or a failing transmission.
Overall addresses the heat issues, not likely related to an ECU.

Thanks.

 

| Update
- Changed both TCCS components.
- Changed the transmission fluid, included a quart of Lucas Oil.
- Cleaned top-side transmission solenoids

| Result
- Vehicle entered reverse a single time, to leave the garage.
- Vehicle would not go into automatic drive.
- Vehicle shifted into second gear manually.
- Vehicle shifted into first gear manually.
- Vehicle gear change became non responsive.

This appears to be transmission failure.
Any idea which component in specific might be damaged here?

Thanks again for all the feedback!

 

One way to narrow it down is in relation to the specific DTC's, pertaining to transmission malfunction, the ECU is triggering.
For example:

 

Just checking in, very much respect the response
After swapping the solenoids there are no DTCs. Left on for a brief period of time, around 10 minutes.

| Update
- Let the vehicle cool overnight.

| Result
- Turn the vehicle on and instantly shift into reverse, gear works.
- Drove it back into the garage.
- Gears cease functionality.

The transmission simply wont kick into gear after a shorter and shorter duration. While doing the work the battery was removed, and curious if this really is the ECU/PCM after all; seen this behavior in circuit boards before.
It would be rather tragic to replace the ECU/PCM then get DTCs that indicate a transmission failure anyway.

An interesting observation: Even after pulling the OEM TCCS components, there was no reason to believe they were non-functional. They were repeatedly tested for resistance and functionality at 12v in room temperature and after being frozen.

Thanks for all of your input, we'll get to the bottom of this.

 

It sounds like a fluid pressure issue, have you checked the trans filter and the banjo connections for debris? Lack of pressure can be caused by worn out pump or debris blocking the lines. Makes sense why it would work fine after the car has sat, the debris will settle over time.

 

Dropped the pan about two years ago, fully swapped and cleaned.
Even the condition it was in was optimal. (roughly 240K, bought used)

Change in gear is outright non-responsive on a decreasing timeline. No errors.
Gamble on the computer before the filter.

We'll see, it will be reported.

 

This filter is not in the pan, it's on the side of the trans under the air filter and has a spring which can be a PITA to get positioned right. There's another internal one that requires splitting open the case if I remember correctly. I know another member had debris at the banjo bolt connections so worth a check there too.

Filter DIY:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2...t-pics-787078/

 

Will take a look today, thanks for the input.

 

However now researching the solution, there's no reason to believe that filter would result in this behavior.
Even the top mounted horizontal solenoids nearby were connected to nearly immaculate "tube-filters" with no visible buildup.

 

Good luck, download a copy of the service manual, it will help you understand vs jumping to conclusions and spending your money on a new PCM/ECU and programming it with the same issue. IMO your issue seems more physical than electrical - Fluid heats up and gets to thin for the trans to work even though you added lucas.

Sounds like a bad ATF Pump, you can always check 1st gear pressure or line pressure to see if it goes down after the trans is warm. With 240K and these trans having issues internally on the hydraulics side, you got a good run. Sonnax makes good kits for rebuilding and fixing issues.

 

Perhaps, but this is another suggested outcome that only partially correlates to the previous response.
Wouldn't it be receiving a code in some of these conditions?

Changed the suggested filter at the same time as the pan filter.

Will poke around, but providing a link to your source would be great.

Thanks for your input.

 

That's from the factory service manual page 14-11, you can find links to download it it's about 230MB and covers 04-07 models.

 

My guess is you'd possibly have a number of codes manifest if one could get it to move out of the garage and down the street, through the gears, somewhat?

 

Checking in again, appreciate all of the responses, thank you.

| Update 2
- Ordered the cheapest, dirtiest ECU off eBay; looked as if it survived a fire, 400k, or a junkyard strip.
- Ordered a "fancy" J2534 Pass-Thru Programmer.
- Let the vehicle sit since the last update.
- Became a pro at using Honda Diagnostic Utility (and dumping ROMs to modify vehicle machine code, for fun).

| Result 2
- The OEM computer was tested around the block; torqued correctly at first however eventually slipped into a no-torque state.
- After driving the block twice, a change into reverse wouldn't return the vehicle to the garage; no torque.
- Removed OEM computer and replaced with eBay item within minutes.
- Transmission kicked into gear again, had torque, shifted between all gears successfully while idle.
- Ran inside to tell the wife to put on her coat, however returning to the vehicle it became non responsive quickly.
- Both computers ran hot.

...

| Update 3
- Tossed both computers into the freezer (in plastic bags).
- Same day test.

| Result 3
- The eBay item replacement drove the block once, lost torque quickly.
- Replaced the eBay item with the OEM item, shifted into gear and parked in the garage.

Most stats collected using OBS while the vehicle was in transit.

Noticed the T.C.C. Solenoid was not triggering often, especially when necessary to shift the vehicle upwards.
Which stats to be studying for the tech pros interested in this data? Suspect the AMPs might be low.

Not saying this is the computer, but am ordering a third ECU in worthwhile condition - very curious if these devices burn out due to internal hoses from the coolant.
Literally changing the computer fixed the shifting ability, but never had any real torque and the vehicle wasn't drivable by any means.

Still don't have any codes but will attempt generating some.
Any thoughts during this final transition?

 

Just curious, was it your self-learned skills, regarding the 'Honda Diagnostic Utility', that enabled you to reprogram the ebay computer to accept your factory ignition key?
It appears from the methodical structural format, of your updates here, that you have high level critical thinking skills.

 

No comment, but it's not a "cheat" or "trick"... and accept your compliment.
Thank you.

The testing is real and will resume until isolating the issue.

Either hit a solution or a wall, being transmission removal/replacement - that's a different well documented procedure.

 

Understood.
When the 'testing' point of diminishing returns becomes evident, I look forward to your documented methodical structural format involving labor time & cost of materials?
Good Luck.

 

Any update to your problem im having same issue