Anyone changed auto- transmission fluid
Whats up everyone. I took my car for an oil change on saturday. The technician tells me I need to change my transmission fluid because its contaminated. He wanted to charge me $180 . I always thought when I change my oil, they fill up all other fluids and change any fluids that need to be changed. I think $180 is too much. If anyone has changed their automatic transmission fluid, please tell me whats a good price and where in nyc is a good spot to do it at ..Thanks
A million threads on the subject. The mileage is the contributing factor with the A/T fluid change. It’s actually 100,000 mile fluid, but many on here like to change the fluid at various intervals, but really don't want to get into that discussion. Easily changed, but remove the filler plug first, then the drain plug. It will take @ 3 qts of Honda ZL1 fluid every time it is drained. The fluid is another topic that I won't discuss as the OE fluid is my choice. Check the DIY in the garage for additional information along with the search function.
and replace the transmission fluid filter while your at it. the service manuals don't even acknowledge it and my dealership didn't even know it had one. it's a paper type element and mine was black as night when I pulled it out.
if its 100,000 mileage fluid, why would i have to do it, i only have 45,000 miles on my 3g. the technician used the word "contaminated (oil)"; is that the right word to use?
A million threads on the subject. The mileage is the contributing factor with the A/T fluid change. It’s actually 100,000 mile fluid, but many on here like to change the fluid at various intervals, but really don't want to get into that discussion. Easily changed, but remove the filler plug first, then the drain plug. It will take @ 3 qts of Honda ZL1 fluid every time it is drained. The fluid is another topic that I won't discuss as the OE fluid is my choice. Check the DIY in the garage for additional information along with the search function.
at 45K it's a good time to change it, its probably dark brown when it should be pink. Pink fluid = good, brown = not good. Change it out! My dealer is charging 79.99 for the 1x and 300 for the 3x3 (pretty dumb, eh?)
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do you guys remember where the thread went that had the diy for this filter change? i can't find it...
Just another ploy to get more money from the unsuspecting consumer.
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So what would be a good indicator? Slipping trans?
thanks for the help, but this diy was not helpful at all. it does not say how to remove the filter or the location, furthermore draining the old fluid.
Stock Z1 is a 20,000 mile fluid at best. Really, it's that crappy. Looking at UOA results, it's incredibly oxidized at that mileage. Of course you can drive it to 200,000 miles but it doesn't mean it's protecting or providing the best shifts possible.
Do a single drain and refill at every other engine oil change or go with a good synthetic and do the 50K-80K changes.
With the price of Z1, you can get Amsoil or Redline for the same price.
Do a single drain and refill at every other engine oil change or go with a good synthetic and do the 50K-80K changes.
With the price of Z1, you can get Amsoil or Redline for the same price.
what do you assume a good dealer price to change the oil would be?
Stock Z1 is a 20,000 mile fluid at best. Really, it's that crappy. Looking at UOA results, it's incredibly oxidized at that mileage. Of course you can drive it to 200,000 miles but it doesn't mean it's protecting or providing the best shifts possible.
Do a single drain and refill at every other engine oil change or go with a good synthetic and do the 50K-80K changes.
With the price of Z1, you can get Amsoil or Redline for the same price.
Do a single drain and refill at every other engine oil change or go with a good synthetic and do the 50K-80K changes.
With the price of Z1, you can get Amsoil or Redline for the same price.
Remove the stock air box and look for the cover on the trans with three bolts and a fluid line attached.
Don’t know how much clearer that can be.
Stock Z1 is a 20,000 mile fluid at best. Really, it's that crappy. Looking at UOA results, it's incredibly oxidized at that mileage. Of course you can drive it to 200,000 miles but it doesn't mean it's protecting or providing the best shifts possible.
Do a single drain and refill at every other engine oil change or go with a good synthetic and do the 50K-80K changes.
With the price of Z1, you can get Amsoil or Redline for the same price.
Do a single drain and refill at every other engine oil change or go with a good synthetic and do the 50K-80K changes.
With the price of Z1, you can get Amsoil or Redline for the same price.
First line:
Remove the stock air box and look for the cover on the trans with three bolts and a fluid line attached.
Don’t know how much clearer that can be.
I knew we couldn’t keep you away. All I can say is that there are a lot of Acura/Honda vehicles on the road to disprove the 20k theory as most wouldn’t have had the trans fluid changed every 20k. If I can drive it 200k I’d say it is working just fine, but it will be changed at 100k.
Remove the stock air box and look for the cover on the trans with three bolts and a fluid line attached.
Don’t know how much clearer that can be.
I knew we couldn’t keep you away. All I can say is that there are a lot of Acura/Honda vehicles on the road to disprove the 20k theory as most wouldn’t have had the trans fluid changed every 20k. If I can drive it 200k I’d say it is working just fine, but it will be changed at 100k.
I guess it depends on your intentions, specifically if you plan on trading it when it hits 100,000 or driving it till the wheels fall off. Plain and simple the fluid is all used up are a fairly low mileage. Whether you want to keep driving it in this condition is up to you. I absolutely hate the shift quality of the Z1 once it's past it's useful life.
I tried to stay away lol.
I guess it depends on your intentions, specifically if you plan on trading it when it hits 100,000 or driving it till the wheels fall off. Plain and simple the fluid is all used up are a fairly low mileage. Whether you want to keep driving it in this condition is up to you. I absolutely hate the shift quality of the Z1 once it's past it's useful life.
I guess it depends on your intentions, specifically if you plan on trading it when it hits 100,000 or driving it till the wheels fall off. Plain and simple the fluid is all used up are a fairly low mileage. Whether you want to keep driving it in this condition is up to you. I absolutely hate the shift quality of the Z1 once it's past it's useful life.
I see these ATF threads on all the Forums, regardless of the make of car or the type of trans fluid, guys’ jump in and say it will only last 20-30k and needs to be changed regularly. You should take a look at the Grand Cherokee Forum, or even the Maxima Forum, same thing. I say if people want to spend their money and do the change every oil change, that's their prerogative, so I just voice my opinion and be done with it, but haven't had a trans let go yet.
If the dealer is offering a 3x3 drain and refill (drain & refill 3 times) for $180, that's probably a pretty good price. If it's a one time drain and fill it is at least double what you should pay.
One drain and refill will change out about 3 qts of fliud. Capacity is ~7.5 qts. A 3x3 drain and refill will replace something like 95% of the fluid.
One drain and refill will change out about 3 qts of fliud. Capacity is ~7.5 qts. A 3x3 drain and refill will replace something like 95% of the fluid.
You mean drain and refill 3 different x*s or it takes 3 drains in one session to change the entire fluid
If the dealer is offering a 3x3 drain and refill (drain & refill 3 times) for $180, that's probably a pretty good price. If it's a one time drain and fill it is at least double what you should pay.
One drain and refill will change out about 3 qts of fliud. Capacity is ~7.5 qts. A 3x3 drain and refill will replace something like 95% of the fluid.
One drain and refill will change out about 3 qts of fliud. Capacity is ~7.5 qts. A 3x3 drain and refill will replace something like 95% of the fluid.
Well, that is the point of contention, you say it's useless in 20k and I say it will last many times that amount with no problem. I've got 62k on the TL and it shifts fine.
I see these ATF threads on all the Forums, regardless of the make of car or the type of trans fluid, guys’ jump in and say it will only last 20-30k and needs to be changed regularly. You should take a look at the Grand Cherokee Forum, or even the Maxima Forum, same thing. I say if people want to spend their money and do the change every oil change, that's their prerogative, so I just voice my opinion and be done with it, but haven't had a trans let go yet.
I see these ATF threads on all the Forums, regardless of the make of car or the type of trans fluid, guys’ jump in and say it will only last 20-30k and needs to be changed regularly. You should take a look at the Grand Cherokee Forum, or even the Maxima Forum, same thing. I say if people want to spend their money and do the change every oil change, that's their prerogative, so I just voice my opinion and be done with it, but haven't had a trans let go yet.
I think many people change too often. However, my point is the Z1 is junk. I would have no problems in going the distance with a full synthetic.
My experience is opposite of yours. I noticed a bump shift and just plain sloppy shifting by 25K. I've owned the car since it was new so I had a starting data point.
Amsoil cured it and I planned on going at least 50K and if possible, 100K. When I wrecked the car I left a gallon of Amsoil in the back and told them that when they replaced the axle to top it off with the Amsoil, not Z1. When I got the car back I saw 3 quarts of Z1 on the invoice and my gallon of Amsoil was full. I noticed no difference in shift quality but I meant to swap it out. As time went by I forgot to swap it. Recently the fluid turned black and shifts were getting sloppy again. It had been about 20K since I got it back from the bodyshop. I couldn't figure out how a premium fluid was going black assuming there were no trans problems. I did a quick fluid swap with the Amsoil and all was fine. Then I remembered that the shop had swapped the Z1 in there.
I know you know more than 99% of the people on here about cars but I believe you bought yours used, right? I truly believe you will see an improvement in shift quality with a swap. Not only is the stock fluid oxidized, I'm sure it's sheared like crazy too and likely not protecting hard parts and convertor parts like it could.
One of my self imposed requirements to think about going 100K was to have a good cooler and especially good filtration. You're driving it around with a fairly high contaminate load.
Roughly half of the fluid is stored in the torque convertor. The 3x3 is to get mostly new fluid in there since you're only draining almost half the fluid at a time. You drain and fill, start and run through all the gears and drain and fill again. All you need to do is run it around the corner, make sure you hit all 5 gears and lockup and bring it back to drain and fill again.
- Drain 3 qts
- Refill with 3 qts
- Run car through all gears 1 - 5;
- repeat 2 more times.
Running the car through the gears between drain/fill helps get the fluid out of the Torque Converter that I Hate Cars was talking about.
When I wrecked the car I left a gallon of Amsoil in the back and told them that when they replaced the axle to top it off with the Amsoil, not Z1. When I got the car back I saw 3 quarts of Z1 on the invoice and my gallon of Amsoil was full. I noticed no difference in shift quality but I meant to swap it out. As time went by I forgot to swap it. Recently the fluid turned black and shifts were getting sloppy again. It had been about 20K since I got it back from the bodyshop. I couldn't figure out how a premium fluid was going black assuming there were no trans problems. I did a quick fluid swap with the Amsoil and all was fine. Then I remembered that the shop had swapped the Z1 in there.
I believe you bought yours used, right? I truly believe you will see an improvement in shift quality with a swap. Not only is the stock fluid oxidized, I'm sure it's sheared like crazy too and likely not protecting hard parts and convertor parts like it could.
One of my self imposed requirements to think about going 100K was to have a good cooler and especially good filtration. You're driving it around with a fairly high contaminate load.
I believe you bought yours used, right? I truly believe you will see an improvement in shift quality with a swap. Not only is the stock fluid oxidized, I'm sure it's sheared like crazy too and likely not protecting hard parts and convertor parts like it could.
One of my self imposed requirements to think about going 100K was to have a good cooler and especially good filtration. You're driving it around with a fairly high contaminate load.
Yup, bought it used at 32k, now 62k, and the fluid has never beam changed. Must say that actually the shifts are quite firm when compared to the other vehicles I own, or have owned. Guess we’ll see in the next 38k if that changes.
thanks everyone...Great help. so $180 for 3 x 3 is not bad?
There's a specific service procedure for it; and it is Acura/Honda's recommended "flush" procedure. It is all done in one service visit. It's something like this:
- Drain 3 qts
- Refill with 3 qts
- Run car through all gears 1 - 5;
- repeat 2 more times.
Running the car through the gears between drain/fill helps get the fluid out of the Torque Converter that I Hate Cars was talking about.
- Drain 3 qts
- Refill with 3 qts
- Run car through all gears 1 - 5;
- repeat 2 more times.
Running the car through the gears between drain/fill helps get the fluid out of the Torque Converter that I Hate Cars was talking about.
$180 for 3x3 is VERY reasonable at the Dealer (imho). The fluid itself is ~$80 at the dealer. 1 hour labor = ~$100. Very reasonable.
BUT, I'll bet dollars-to-doughnuts that your price is a 3 qt drain and fill. Hope I'm wrong, but I'm cynical.
BUT, I'll bet dollars-to-doughnuts that your price is a 3 qt drain and fill. Hope I'm wrong, but I'm cynical.
You are usually quite accurate in your description, but it’s difficult to understand how shift quality could be compromised in 20k when there was only 40% of Z1 in the system.
Yup, bought it used at 32k, now 62k, and the fluid has never beam changed. Must say that actually the shifts are quite firm when compared to the other vehicles I own, or have owned. Guess we’ll see in the next 38k if that changes.
Yup, bought it used at 32k, now 62k, and the fluid has never beam changed. Must say that actually the shifts are quite firm when compared to the other vehicles I own, or have owned. Guess we’ll see in the next 38k if that changes.
so I called Acura of Manhattan. $185 to drain all the old fluid and add new fluid, so im guessin its a 3*3. I wish they had a detailed with pictures write up in AZ, so I can use that $185 in something else.
Next time it's due for a change I may try Redline D4 just to try it. No problems with the Amsoil.
When it comes to warranty work, they have to prove the fluid caused the problem. There's always the option of doing a drain and refill with the Z1 if you knew it was going to go in for trans work. It's highly unlikely they would do a UOA to determine if it was the correct fluid anyway. Otherwise, if warranty bugs you, you're pretty much limited to Z1 or Dex III.
what's going every 1.. I went to a local mechanic, he's been in the business for 41 years. I told him that Acura recommended me to flush my tranny fluid. The mechanic suggested to only change the fluid and not flush it, because when u flush it dubris comes out and clogs up part of the transmission. He would not recommend me flushing it, nor changing the filter, because you would have to take the entire tranny apart.
what's going every 1.. I went to a local mechanic, he's been in the business for 41 years. I told him that Acura recommended me to flush my tranny fluid. The mechanic suggested to only change the fluid and not flush it, because when u flush it dubris comes out and clogs up part of the transmission. He would not recommend me flushing it, nor changing the filter, because you would have to take the entire tranny apart.
He is Correct. Acura does NOT recommend a "flush". They speificlly recommend drain & fill. If your dealer said "flush", he either used the word loosely or isn't following the Acura SOP.
Roughly half of the fluid is stored in the torque convertor. The 3x3 is to get mostly new fluid in there since you're only draining almost half the fluid at a time. You drain and fill, start and run through all the gears and drain and fill again. All you need to do is run it around the corner, make sure you hit all 5 gears and lockup and bring it back to drain and fill again.
There's a specific service procedure for it; and it is Acura/Honda's recommended "flush" procedure. It is all done in one service visit. It's something like this:
- Drain 3 qts
- Refill with 3 qts
- Run car through all gears 1 - 5;
- repeat 2 more times.
Running the car through the gears between drain/fill helps get the fluid out of the Torque Converter that I Hate Cars was talking about.
- Drain 3 qts
- Refill with 3 qts
- Run car through all gears 1 - 5;
- repeat 2 more times.
Running the car through the gears between drain/fill helps get the fluid out of the Torque Converter that I Hate Cars was talking about.
IIRC, Acura/American Honda only recommends the 3 x 3 when the transmission is exhibiting symptoms, and 1 x 3 otherwise.
change it urself...nothn to it at all...jus had mine changed monday bc the tranny was slippn this past sat...fluid was low and burnt and a fluid change didnt help...Cars at the shop now waitn to get the tranny rebuilt....that 100,000 mile stuff is for the birds...im at 82,000 and havn problems cuz i thought it didnt have to be changed til 100 thousand!!!
Agreed. Changing it yourself is an easy job. I did my second change of an "extended" 3X3--I did 3 qts last oil change. Few weeks later I did another change (3qts) and also replaced the filter and the 3rd & 4th gear switches. I have 49K and did the first change after I checked the fluid and found it brown and smelly.
I had to replace the tranny in my 2000TL at 96K (under warranty), so I'm all about preventive maintenance now!
I had to replace the tranny in my 2000TL at 96K (under warranty), so I'm all about preventive maintenance now!
3G Garage: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/3g-tl-service-department-aka-garage-questions-answers-check-here-first-553557/
Specifically:https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/rr-journals-atf-drain-refill-3g-garage-c-012-a-556044/
and
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/110-diy-guide-replacing-3rd-4th-gear-pressure-switch-3g-tl-2004-2006-a-729149/
Specifically:https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/rr-journals-atf-drain-refill-3g-garage-c-012-a-556044/
and
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/110-diy-guide-replacing-3rd-4th-gear-pressure-switch-3g-tl-2004-2006-a-729149/
Just did my 5AT fluid drain/fill last week. I should have joined earlier not knowing it had a filter. My car has 48,000kms on it. Have been doing this since my last acura every 50,000kms and is highly recommended.
I used Honda Z1 but am also thinking about mobil 1 syn for the next change @100K. My mechanic (not dealership) recommends Honda Z1 because he claims it has the minerals fit for the car. Another mechanic stronglt recommends Mobil 1.
Any thoughts?
I used Honda Z1 but am also thinking about mobil 1 syn for the next change @100K. My mechanic (not dealership) recommends Honda Z1 because he claims it has the minerals fit for the car. Another mechanic stronglt recommends Mobil 1.
Any thoughts?







