RyanCHICL

iTrader: (1)

My 04 TL with 88k has been having a problem starting for the past week and a half. When I turn the key it cranks fine, but it cranks for about 5 seconds before it wants to turn over. It eventually starts every time though. I had the battery tested twice. The first time I took the car over to Autozone, and they said the battery was good but needs charge and the starter tested good as well. The next day I took the battery out of the car and took it back over after it sat over night to have it tested again, and it tested good. The guy said the battery does not need to be replaced, so I figured it might be something fuel related? Yesterday, I filled up my tank, and dumped in a thing of Red line fuel system cleaner with no luck yet (I also only use Shell V-Power 93). I am planning to take it over to my Indy on Monday, but I would like to know of any possible problem areas I should look at first before I do so. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

BTW, I believe the spark plugs are original, maybe that might be my next step? Battery is also dated March of 08.

invalidalias

try this-turn the key to the on position for about 5-10 seconds, then crank it. If it fires right up then it might be a component in the fuel pump assembly in which the whole pump needs to be replace. Its a one way check valve that maintains pressure so that when you go to start it, it fires right up, or should anyway.

9632tl

in the owners manual, it says that some times it will take longer for the car to start. something to do with ULEV.

RyanCHICL

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I will give that a try. I have to leave for work soon anyway. I will post later if it worked. Thanks.

I know, I saw that too. But, I don't think it's normal since it never did this until about a week and a half ago. But I will keep it in mind. Thanks.

RyanCHICL

iTrader: (1)

So, I tried this earlier, and it was even worse. I let it crank for a while then I released the key and it sputtered for a second then it died. I then restarted the car though it fired up right away then. When I left work just now it was still taking a few seconds to fire.

johnny3

Is it the first start of the day or every start?

RyanCHICL

iTrader: (1)

^^^^ It happens every start.

invalidalias

man, stumpted on this one. As long as you can get to your job back and forth, drive till the gas tank is empty, refuel with Shell or Chevron and add some injector cleaner. At least this would rule out bad gas. How is you gas mileage by the way?

RyanCHICL

iTrader: (1)

^^^^ I already added a bottle of red line fuel system cleaner a few days ago when I filled up at Shell. My mpg is 20 right now according to the mid with mostly city driving. Thanks for your help.

Splke

iTrader: (1)

Those damn muffler bearings are causing problems for you too huh?
my second guess would be your spark plugs.

I hate cars

It honestly sounds like the fuel pump is not priming the system.

Do what the other guy said, turn the key to on but don't start it. Listen toward the rear of the car for the fuel pump coming on. It should come on for a couple seconds and shut off. If you can't hear this, the fuel pump relay is probably bad.

The back up system is the oil pressure switch. If the fuel pump relay fails, the oil pressure switch will close the fuel pump circuit. The problem is, you have to crank the engine over until it gets oil pressure which is what causes the long starting.

I would look in the manual, find the fuel pump relay, swap it with another relay that looks the same and see if it solves the problem.

RyanCHICL

iTrader: (1)

^^^^ Thank You very much for responding back to my pm so quickly. I had the relay go bad on my old Accord but I never thought it would be a problem on the TL. I will look into this and post back any results.

RyanCHICL

iTrader: (1)

Just out of curiosity, I just ran out to the car and and turned my key to ON and I did hear my fuel pump kick on. Would this rule out a bad relay then?

I hate cars

Yep. It can be the regulator too. Does the car run completely normal once it's running? If you have a scanner, a look at the LT fuel trim will show if the ECU is having to add or subtract fuel to compensate for a bad regulator.

If this is the case, the car will start easier if you turn the key from off to start quickly rather than turning it slowly.

A fuel pressure gauge will show if the regulator is bad.

RyanCHICL

iTrader: (1)

Yes, the car runs great once it is running. I do have an OBD II code reader but since the car isn't throwing any codes I never thought of using it lol. I will check and see if it can read for the LT fuel trim. Thanks again.

RyanCHICL

iTrader: (1)

UPDATE: I finally had some time to bring my car in to my indy and they ran a bunch of fuel tests and determined that fuel pump and fuel pump relay need to be replaced. They said total cost for this would be just over $500 with OEM parts. Am I being overcharged? I just looked on Delray's website and it looks like I can get the parts cheaper myself.

vietxquangstah

iTrader: (7)

are you considering how much they are also charging for labor?

RyanCHICL

iTrader: (1)

Yes, that is including labor.

I hate cars

That sucks. They're guessing or they wouldn't be doing both the pump and relay. It's absolutely not the relay if you can hear the pump come on when you turn the key to on. It's possible it can be the pump going bad but pumps usually just stop working, they don't gradually lose output. If the car runs ok and especially at full throttle, it's not the pump. If the pump were dying a slow death you would first see it at full throttle and then lower throttles and finally it wouldn't want to idle or start.

I hate cars

The exception would be if the regulator is a part of the pump.

bmeyer

iTrader: (3)

The regulator is part of the fuel pump assembly, but not part of the pump motor.

That price sounds quite steep. I'd buy the entire pump assembly from Delray Acura for $217 and do the install myself. Just rent a fuel pump removal tool from Autozone. It's a 30 minute job.