TL6SPD

Hello ,All. About a month ago i installed Rotora Slotted rotors all the way around with Hawk HPS pads. I get this annoying squel from time to time. It's so high pitched... is there anyway to get rid of it? Also, my buddy told me that i installed the rotors back wards... Does anyone have a picture of slotted rotors installed correctly?

Thanks in advance!

totaledTL

Put some anti squeal compound on the back of the pads. Available at auto parts stores.

TL6SPD

Yeah i did that when installing..

NAiL05

Hawk pads are known to squeak. You put an aggressive pad on a car it will squeak until you warm the brakes up.

01tl4tl

STOP!!!!
did you install hawk pads on the rear brakes?
If so remove them- today!!
take the inner pad and look at the raised tabs on its back
1 holds the squealer tab- 1 at opposite end is empty,

and IF you have a 3rd tab in the top center- that MUST be ground OFF flush-
or it hits the caliper piston and cocks the pad- only half width gets contact to rotor, makes bad noise and brake shake you cant figure out
Can often be seen as half width rusty/ half clean on inner side of rear rotor

those pads actually fit the RL rear calipers but NOT the TL
Hawk was notified but no change to the books has come thru to most parts places
Many other makers use the same guide for backing plates and got the same result...ck all rear pads you buy for this problem

best to use a bench grinder to remove tab-
a hand file or cordless drill with a stone wont do it very quickly- needs a real grinding down, flush with the surface around it

It that was present- hopefully that will fix your noise and get better braking

01tl4tl

you need to follow the pad and rotor makers `tech section advice` on pad bedding

Getting the new pads heat cycled a few times to bake out excess resins, condition the rotors, then do a transfer layer of pad material to the rotor= improved pad life and better braking

exact method varies slightly with each maker

nfnsquared

Mods, he has a 3G TL, why did this get moved to the 2G forum?

nfnsquared

Your friend doesn't know what he's talking about. As far as I know, Rotora rotors are not directional. Rotors are only directional if the internal cooling vanes are curved or slanted. If so, the rotor should be installed so the internal vanes point to the rear of the car. It has nothing to do with the slots. If the vanes are straight, you can install the rotors however you like:

http://www.zeckhausen.com/how_to_pro...all_rotors.htm

Yeah, Hawks are notorious for noise, just read the multiple threads complaining about noise from Hawk ceramics.

However, you need to file off the center tab on the rear pads if they have one....whether or not you're getting noise from the rear....

TL6SPD

Yeah i am not sure why this got moved to the 2G.

Also, the rear are ceramics from Advance.

The rotors aren't Rotora they are Powerslot... i believe the squeal is coming from the front....

nfnsquared

OK, start all over and tell us what you really have and where....

01tl4tl

correction to info a few post above:

The maker intended direction of rotors with external side vanes is cast/carved into the side of the hub
Each maker has their own idea of which way the vanes should point during operation-
so you always have to look at the flat plate near the mounting holes
will be something like this -------> Front
point the arrow to the front of the car

if you have hi tech rotors like RacingBrake with its trick inner cooling vanes and slotted sides- its critical to install right and is clearly marked so you do

Do NOT run side slotted rotors backwards of design or it will make a noise like you cant believe

brake noise travels thru the frame- what sounds like rf is often rear

01tl4tl

you have enough street driving time on them to do a full hot bedding -without that expect pad noises

Or- You may simply have a ridge from being too easy on the brakes, bedding will fix that

Hawks like to be used a bit harder than stock pads- get them warmed up an they work great

nfnsquared

What do you mean by "external side vanes"?

I haven't seen one single directional rotor maker that says to install with the internal cooling vanes pointing forward.

Show me a single maker who says to install their directional rotors with the internal cooling vanes pointing forward.....

Bottom line, just as I said before with no correction needed, if the rotor has slanted internal cooling vanes, install the rotor with the vanes pointing to the rear of the car. The link has an excellent diagram.

nfnsquared

Powerslot slotted rotors are directional. Install them with the cooling vanes pointing/slanting toward the rear of the car.

http://www.powerslot.com/partsapp/de...categories=25#

Click on the bottom right thumbnail....

01tl4tl

go read www.racingbrake.com for real info on inner vanes

I am referring here to the outer side slots cut into hi performance rotors
Some makers run the leading edge of slots forward, and other backwards
slot opens at bottem first in rotation or last

rotors are installed based on the makers noted direction on the mounting hub
Flat face/surface rotors are not part of this discussion

very few rotors have curved inner cooling vanes- its expensive because it requires left and right casting molds and is for performance use

Most rotors are straight vanes in the center section connecting the 2 faces.
Their direction when curved is makers choice- only a few makers even do it and each is different-patents and all that
extracting hot air is a technical business--suggest rb tech info for some great reading

I have never seen `directional` rotors that were cut with side slots (those are to allow outgassing of pads under extreme temps) that were not marked for front ---->

and Ive never seen instructions for install based soley on inner vanes direction, and not have a marking on the hub--those would likely also have side slots cut into them

nfnsquared

You mean like this:

http://forums.racingbrake.com/showthread.php?t=74

RB diagram in post #4.

Also, from post #6 by RB: "However we all know the 'vane' direction is what important than 'slot' direction which is more cosmetic than any significance of performance and every mfgr / user are entitled to have their own opinion.
As we stated in our previous answer if the rotors are non-directional or ?straight? vane you may install whatever you feel right but since RB rotors have curved vanes so you must install them as recommended."


Oh, did you go to the Powerslot link I gave above....Same thing, installation is based on direction of the inner cooling veins, not the slots: "The left and right side rotors have directional vanes for improved cooling, so note the direction of the cooling vanes when installing." The picture on the page says it all....

totaledTL

Vanes and slots are two completely different things- I've never seen any "external side vanes" on a rotor.

01tl4tl

side slots cut into the rotor face, aka side vents or external vanes

RB rotors need the right direction- I have a set- and they have an arrow stamped on the hub so you know which side of the car it goes on..so do side slotted rotora, which I have installed on another TL (and didnt have curved inner vanes but was directional)

RB and stoptech use the same direction of side vents
Rotora goes opposite

All I am saying is look for the marking, if they are directional it will be there
Makers advice you quoted was informational for customers who dont understand the process involved--its a sales thing

very few makers have curved inner vanes~ those will have an external mark to tell you which side they run on

For the outer cuts on the side of the rotor there are as many designs as there are people with a rented CNC machine
leading edge of cut made at top section of rotor or bottem- slots going forward or back or curved slots!

dimpled rotors will also have a direction they were made to run marked on them

01tl4tl

for the OP prob of noise- ck the install and caliper grease
Do a full bedding per hawks or mrheeltoes method
make sure to do a cool off drive after for 15 minutes without using the brakes
they will be cherry red when you get done

TL6SPD

Hey guys. My buddy is a master tech at a Lexus dealership next to my house. I was there yesterday he was doing some maintence items on my car, such as fluids, tighten hand brake etc..

I asked him about the brakes and the annoying sqeal. He took them all apart and put anti-noise grease on all pads.. sanded pads down a little.

The car still sqeaks.

I think that i just did not bed them in correctly. I will need to follow the steps.

Thanks guys.

01tl4tl

if you have not bedded them per hawks method or mrheeltoe which has a longer method based on combining several makers methods
hawks seem to enjoy it too~

You cant complain about anything if required installation procedure is not followed-
bed the brakes

Sometimes you have to go rebed the brakes-- if they have been driven lighty a bunch and get a noise

01tl4tl

you buddy the master tech needs his head examined
Right on the hawk box it says DO NOT SAND pads
there is bad stuff released and who knows what else
There is no reason for glaze to be on your pads now- so what was his logic?
new pads dont need sanding- they need proper hard use, ie: bedding procedure to bake out excess resins, then do a transfer layer of pad material to rotor--
see heeltoe tech article on the subject

TL6SPD

The pads still squeal

Any suggestions?

TL6SPD

Hello, All.

After all the work my buddy and I did. It still squeals bad! Its very annoying and embarrassing. We put all different kind of anti squeal lube's and its still bad.

Any ideas?

Btw i am a 6MT running Brand new Hawk HPS pads and Powerslot rotors.

The squeal is coming from the front.

Please help.

NAiL05

They are going to squeal until they get up to operating temperature which means hard driving. Hawks are notorious for squealing...Not recommended for daily drivers. My friend runs them on his s2k and it squeals everywhere until he gets to the track. Same goes for everyone else I know that ran Hawk. I run racing brake on my 6mt and there is a brief squeal when doing low speed city driving but its not to where it kills my ears. I would also recommend following the break in procedure which should help tune the squeal down a little more.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

dude i think you need some help....mentally....

people here are trying to help you out but u dont do anything they say.....

1> where is the squeal coming from ? front/back
2> what are the combination of rotors/pads your running ? you have mentioned different in different posts
3> did you bed them in properly ?
4> did you or your friend install the pads properly ?
5> you sure you picked up the right rotors/pads ?

the reason i ask is coz i have been rocking powerslot slotted and hawk hps since 70K miles....no rotor change....no rear pad change....front pads changed after 45K on them.....and never have i head a squeal...and dang they can stop... !!! so i think you should take ur car to a shop (if your not mechanically inclined) and give them $100 and ask them to reinstall everything....

TL6SPD

I've installed plenty of rotors and brakes in my previous cars and never ever had a problem.

The squeal is coming from the front.

Pads and rotors are correct.

I did bed them in, but probably not good enough.

I also noticed they dont stop as good, so i am guessing that is because there not bedded in correctly. I will follow Mr Heel and Toe's bed in instructions this weekend and see what happens.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ i would take the wheels off....take the caliper out.....take a sand paper (120 grit) to the rotor....make sure you take any old pad stuff of the rotor....then put the caliper back on and bed the pads in how heel toe has written...

good luck

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

EDIT you are making a wild generalization there. We have had a lot of people really happy with HPS and Ceramics. You need to clarify what compound you are talking about.

I will say that yes ET300 and ET500 are much more consistent and tend to be quiet.

KzooTL

Breaking the pads into the new rotors is vital for improved bite.

I'm running Hawk HPS and PS cryo slotted rotors with no issues, usually when cold they make a slight grinding? noise when brakes are applied but after the first brake it all good.

The first 500 miles they were louder than stock when braking but have since been quite like stock. The bite has gotten better after the first 500 miles too.

The break in procedure is right on the box of your Hawk pads and takes like 5 minutes, you can clearly see on your rotors if you broke then in right by the coating it leaves.

Heres a link to the hawk site
http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/faq.php

I've only had them installed for 4 months, no complaints thus far.

I had to grind down that 3rd tab on the rear pads also, threw me a curve ball when it was like 3am..said to myself why is this 3rd tab here hahah..jumped on the forums and found 01tl4tl posts.

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

That grinding noise is pretty normal on hawks as far as I can tell. They have a lot of friction but can't keep quiet sometimes.

Racingbrake has taken care of the tab issue now out of the box.

TL6SPD

MrHeeltoe, i saw your article on beding the new brakes in. I will follow that today. I have cross hataches on my rotors. So i image thats why the bite is not that good and theyre very noisy.