Alignment off after transmission replacement

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Old 01-08-2018, 08:33 AM
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Alignment off after transmission replacement

The rebuilt transmission shifts all feel great, from gears 1-5 and shifting between reverse and drive.
I've owned my car with a clunky transmission the whole time and not being able to feel the shifts is something different.

The only bad thing I notice is that my wheel is turned to the left in order to drive straight.
I don't *think* the car pulls while the wheel is turned to the left and driving straight.

This leads me to think the steering wheel wasn't put into the rack correctly. Is this something an alignment shop can adjust while getting the alignment done?

Thanks
Old 01-08-2018, 10:16 AM
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Possibly. Replacement of the transmission involves removing and detaching various suspension components, which results in an alignment being strongly recommended afterward, if not absolutely necessary. I'm surprised that the shop that did it (assuming you had a shop do it and didn't do it yourself) didn't recommend an alignment or simply do one out of default.
Old 01-08-2018, 10:42 AM
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can't you just remove the steering wheel and re-align it against the teeth?
Old 01-08-2018, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by losiglow
Possibly. Replacement of the transmission involves removing and detaching various suspension components, which results in an alignment being strongly recommended afterward, if not absolutely necessary. I'm surprised that the shop that did it (assuming you had a shop do it and didn't do it yourself) didn't recommend an alignment or simply do one out of default.
A reputable shop did it, I'm in no way inclined to do it myself especially during winter

I'm also surprised they didn't mention anything about alignment. The MID even shows Trip A is 33km so they had a good amount of time to realize that the steering if off.
Maybe they forgot to mention it?

Originally Posted by thoiboi
can't you just remove the steering wheel and re-align it against the teeth?
You could, but I heard that's a band aid fix.
If steering is off that means your turning radius will differ for each side too
Old 01-08-2018, 11:39 AM
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Didn't think about that
Old 01-08-2018, 01:44 PM
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If you don't mind me asking, how much did it roughly cost you for the rebuild? Did they use beefed up components in the rebuild? It's always beneficial to get an idea about local pricing compared to the US. I've always been able to feel the shifts on my TL. It was clunky as well when purchased a few years ago, especially the 2 to 3, but they've become quicker and firmed up with a 1x3 drain and fill with Redline transmission fluid and changing of pressure switches (knock on wood). I'm planning on doing another 1x3 in the spring. What type of service intervals did you follow for fluid and pressure switches, etc? Thanks!
Old 01-08-2018, 02:40 PM
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Definitely sounds like the tie rods were removed.
Old 01-08-2018, 04:07 PM
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I went to a place called Rutherford Transmission.
There used to be a whatsapp group for GTA TLs and a few guys went there, supposedly they do the best work for the price and take good care of your car. Cost me $1600. Quick turnaround. I dropped off my car in the morning and got it back the next morning.
I asked if the components were upgraded and was told no, they used OEM parts.
I had my car towed 253 km to get to this specific shop.

Either the tie rods were removed and weren't put back in the same place, or the subframe was not put back in the same position? I'm not sure if they disconnect the steering column either for the job either.

I gave them a call to let them know of my other problems with the rebuild transmission so I'll have to make the 4 hour drive back to Toronto sometime soon so they can check it out

As for my service history with my old transmission:

In 2011 or 2012 I got a Honda dealer to do a transmission drain and refill job.
In 2013 I did a drain and refill with DW1 myself, no problems. Also changed out 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches.
In 2014, I did another drain and refill with DW1 and immediately had flaring problems from 3rd to 4th.
In 2015, I decided to try to fix the slipping - went with Redline fluids and did a 3x3 using the "optimal type-f percentage thread" which includes Type-F, lightweight, and D6 (or D4?) fluid.
Also changed out the pressure switches, and cleaned out the solenoid filters at the top of the transmission and the one at the side facing the front. Changed out the filter too.
Spent around $300 for the parts to do all this.

The car drove fine for the couple of years, usually slips/and or takes long to shift in the cold. If I don't let off the gas pedal at the shift points, I would get flaring. If I drive it letting off the gas, transmission would be good so I was hoping the transmission would last forever.

Last edited by guitarplayer16; 01-08-2018 at 04:11 PM.
Old 01-08-2018, 06:32 PM
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The shaft that connects to the gear spline is removed and should be marked in advance so replacement is the same position.
When a steering wheel is off center, the wheel should never be removed and turned to correct the condition. This would cause the rack/box not to be centered.
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truonghthe (01-09-2018)
Old 01-09-2018, 10:28 AM
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^^^^this.

I would recommend get an alignment but before doing that I would talk to the shop and ask them did they removed the tire rod or subframe. Then have dealer rechecked all the component mentioned, once that done talk to the dealer tech and ask them to go with you for a test drive, show them the issue and they should able straighten the steering wheel.

Last edited by truonghthe; 01-09-2018 at 10:32 AM.
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