I wish that's all the time it'd taken me!
I know this is the TL forum but on my TSX it was such a small space up in the corner that it was aggravatingly hard to get the bolts out. There are metal parts around the glove compartment area that made it seem like it was physically impossible to get the wrench on AND have room to turn it but it got easier the looser it got. I'm sure the fact that it was over 100° outside didn't help either in a car with black interior and exterior!

Good thinking telling the size wrench needed to get it out.
I tried quite a few before realizing I didn't have the right size.

 

Hey Punit352, could you explain the process of "scanning" or "looking up" the code. I am experiencing the same problem you experienced back in January 2009. I'm not sure how to look up the code or what that process entails, however, I believe it's the next step to resolving this deacceleration problem! I am a total car amateur as a warning so I appreciate you and the Acura communities help if this question sounds stupid!

I have a 2005 Acura TL with ~160k miles. Has run like a champ thus far. Thanks for the help!

 

OBD 2 port near the drivers feet. You plug a scanner tool in to read the info. Autozone and most parts places offer free check engine light scans to tell you the code

 

The TPS and APP sensors are not the same. The TPS (throttle position) is attached to the throttle body. I think the dealerships won't sell just the sensor, but act as if the only way to replace that particular sensor is by replacing the entire throttle body (sensor included). You CAN, however, purchase just the sensor..just not at the dealership.
The APP sensor (accelerator pedal position) is located under the hood in the far back corner on the passenger side. There's a metal cable that runs to that area as well.
If you Google your cars model and "DLC location" you should get a photo showing exactly where to plug a scan tool to get trouble codes. You can buy your own scan tool for less than $10 online, which I highly suggest doing! I've got a Bluetooth one that stays plugged in 24/7 and shows every single sensor output, along with tons of other info and costed only around $10!
The P2138 DTC means the ECU is seeing an improper voltage correlation between the APP and TPS. This means the issue could be with either the APP sensor, TP sensor, or even the ECU! So rather than blindly swapping out parts that may or may not be the culprit, you'd be better off doing some diagnostics to find exactly which of those parts is causing the prob.
All you'll need is a multimeter to check voltages. I'll find the instructions for diagnosing this particular DTC and come back and post it. The dealership will for sure cost you a ton & even without experience this issue is something you can solve and fix yourself.

If you see my comment above...I was actually talking about the Throttle Actuator Control module that was difficult to remove..that isn't something you'll need to mess with. Mine ended up being my ECU, which was corroded beyond belief!!
​​​​

 

please do provide the instructions, as I have the accelerator position sensor and throttle body sensor on the fritz and I'm trying to figure out which pins to test with my multimeter.

 

Hey, how did this end up resolving? I have the same exact problem and the mechanic I've taken my Acura to (an Acura/Honda specialist) doesn't seem to want to suggest $ in repairs without codes showing up on my dashboard. No notable codes have showed up despite this problem occurring on three multiple occasions (loosing acceleration on the highway after jerking motions of my car). Based off all the symptoms described on this thread, I feel like my cars loss of acceleration must be related to my APP sensor. However, I'm not sure if I should proceed with the repair without the mechanic suggesting it.

 

I'm having an acceleration problem myself with my 03 CLS-6. Close to 170k milage. I took it to Acura and they're telling me my clutch is going bad.... and I need a new flywheel and some other stuff. On my repair estimate report it says ".. replace clutch assembly for vehicles pressure plate slipping and unable to grab flywheel after enough load". Clutch has never been replaced before I'm 2nd owner & honestly happy I've gotten 170k with only 1. I do not push the car much unless I'm pulling out in front of traffic every now and then in a hurry. But I have never felt any slippage or anything to think that it is the clutch going bad. No engine light or anything. It's just not accelerating over 4500 rpm. Starts up just fine and drives like always but when I do push it a little (usually in 3rd gear) it seems to stall at around 4500 rpm (imagine no VTEC kicking in). I've called a few places all quoting me around the same price of 2.5k. Everyone is tell me it is a tough job and parts for this model are hard to find. Only 3000 CLS-6 made in U.S from my understanding. Anyone have any issues like this? Just asking around as I've never dealt with a bad clutch or anything like this. After reading this thread I'm wondering about my APP sensor.

 

Tyler, first of all your second generation 2003 CL-S six speed does not have an APP sensor. Why? Because it has a throttle body that is actuated by a wire cable connected to the accelerator pedal.

You are posting in a thread on the third generation 2004-2008 TL forum. This generation is the first to have a 'drive by wire' computer connection to actuate the throttle body. Therefore, it is not related to your acceleration issues.


You can purchase a new clutch kit and flywheel from RockAuto for $444.68 before shipping. See the links below:
More Information for LUK 08047 (rockauto.com)
More Information for LUK DMF063 (rockauto.com)

The parts above are made by the same company that produces the 'overpriced' OEM components contained in Acura marked boxes.

However, if you bring these parts to an Acura dealer to install they may decline because they did not sell you said parts and will not warranty as if you bought their overpriced components.

With that said, if you have your original 170K mile clutch replaced, you should also replace the #20 rear main seal, whether it is leaking or not, shown on the link below. To get to this seal, the manual transmission has to be removed so have it done while it is out for clutch / flywheel replacement.
Cylinder Block - Oil Pan - 2003 Acura CL 2 Door SPORT KA 6MT (acurapartswarehouse.com)

What did Acura say about the p0219 engine overspeed code you mentioned previously?

 

Just curious, will your car rev past 4500rpm, at a standstill, with the transmission in neutral?

 

Yes it will.

 

^
Great, your engine will rev past 4500rpm while in neutral.
Are there any new 'money light' trouble codes other than the p0219 & p1399 your origianally reported?
BTW, a trouble code won't be triggered by a failing / worn pressure plate / clutch / flywheel.
You can usually feel the clutch slipping while driving as you've indicated that you do not.


What I don't understand is how Acura thinks that a 'pressure plate slipping...unable to grab flywheel after enough load' will cause your engine to not pass 4500rpm when you 'push it a little' in third gear.

Something is not reconciling with their written 'slipping' claim.

If the clutch is slipping, due to pressure plate slippage one would think that you would have no problem hearing the engine race past 4500rpm as it slipped on the flywheel.

It seems like the engine computer is keeping the rpm from increasing past 4500rpm for some other reason?

It may be prudent to try and google your local area, there in VA, for Acura / Honda specialty shops to visit for another opinion.

 

I have a acura tl 2004 with almost the same problem except when im driving and I stop at light or stop sign my car wont accelerate but my rpms will still move. So I would have to put my car in park turn it of and on and the car moves again I had a check engine light and the two codes that popped up was P0700 and P0174 does anyone know what I have to do plsss help