I`ve got it. It just started. About 4 or 5 inches down when depressing. Anyone else? Is it easy to get to and spray some WD-40 or grease it?

 

Anybody?

 

HELLOOOOOOOOOOOOO?

 

I have 2,200 miles on my 6 speed and have not experienced this problem at all. If I were you, I'd probably just wait and have the dealership take care of it during the next service.

 

none here...

 

I had this on another car and some WD-40 on the clutch's pivot point worked well.

 

Does anyone have a TL with this problem or is the "The Man" (the dealer) flat out blowing me off. With 900 miles on the car I noticed the gap between the tires and fenders more on the passenger side (by .75 ") than on the drivers side. Only mods are the upgraded tires. Tires all same size and same pressure. Am I insane?? Or do I need to deal with it??

 

Did you have a squeaky clutch that caused the larger gap?

 

do not use WD-40 that is a penetrant it is for rust and will actually remove whatever lube is in there and make it worse. Use a silicone based spray, or pick up a tub of lithium base general purosegrease at Pep Boys

 

I have it and it drives me nuts.. it doesn't seem to be all the time though... its going in & out and only the first part of clutch travel.. I have lithium grease, should I try that or just go to the dealer? The thing is they often break 2 other things when they fix one..

 

How do all these threads disappear!?!?!

PS...just realized the above poster is absolutely right...I WAS lubing with silicone spray and everything was fine...I then did WD40 and the timeframe for having to lube back up dropped down from every few months to every few weeks. I'm putting the bearing grease back on tomorrow.

 

Shin-Etsu grease is the OEM Honda silicone grease for this type of application.

I'm sure you can find a suitable substitute at any auto parts store that will be much cheaper.

I would put some solvent on a paper towel (IPA) and wipe away any debris that has collected and any remaining grease that has probably hardened over the years. Use some nitrile gloves to get the new grease into the spring assembly. Do this on all of the pedals to be proactive.

good luck!

 

Really? I actually have shin etsu grease...I actually use that to keep the door seals nice and prevent them from cracking. I guess I can try and grease all that up...
I'd be very happy to be rid of the problem ASAP.

 

If the problem is worse on hot days it's probably the clutch master cylinder. A little grease needs to be applied in the hole where the rod from the pedal enters the body. It worked for me. I also located and used the HHS 2000 stuff mentioned in the last snippet since the problem reoccurred two times. It's expensive but seems to be quite good. The problem has not come back since.

Below are four snippets from posts in other threads I've kept for myself describing how to do it. They should save you and others searching and weeding through all the posts.

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"With white lithium grease, lubricate the clutch where it enters the firewall. Engage and disengage the clutch while lubricating. My clutch "clicks" after 10K miles or so. I lubricate and the "click" feeling goes away. I also had my slave cylinder replaced early on due to noises, but this issue, is where you can "feel" the click through the clutch pedal, is a lubrication issue and is easily solved."
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"get some lithium grease. Now press the pedal in you'll see a little hole open up. Spray some grease in the hole. Press and release the clutch a few times. The noise should be gone."
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"This can be done easily by first removing the plastic trim piece under the drivers side of the dash. Then, with the can in hand, push the clutch pedal down with your other hand. Assuming the can you bought comes with the nice little spray tube, insert the tube into one (or both) of the little notches so it actually goes behind that and into the cylinder itself. Then let the pedal out and repeat the process one or two more times.
Note - put a rag underneath otherwise some may/will drip out onto your interior carpeting."
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"Same thing happened to me, a few weeks later with the new clutch master cylinder, I started getting the squeaks and creaks around the pedal mechanism. Sprayed a little Wurth HHS 2000 and that took care of it. I highly recommend this lubricant. It penetrates, sets as a grease, and is rubber friendly for seals and gaskets. Most good shops keep this stuff on hand."
---------------

 

Thanks for sharing, bud. I've actually done this a bunch of times...but it's always returned and a LOT more frequently lately. Then it dawned on me...I sprayed WD40 a few months ago and probably pushed all the good grease out of there.

Yesterday I got back in there...I actually tightened up both bolts that hold the master to the slave. The left one is tough to get to, but that's probably why I had never done it before. It needed almost an entire rotation to be totally tight.

Did that...and I also have a method of using my old "club" pressed against the seat to hold the clutch ALL the way down. I cleaned up and applied shin etsu grease to the spring mechanism...and then used Lucas' ball bearing grease...I push a straw into it (mcdonalts size) and suck some up into the straw...then I shove the straw in that little opening on the top of where the plunger goes in and squeeze out the contents. Sound was gone immediately...we shall see for how long this time. I've used the Lucas before...but not that thoroughly and not in conjunction with etsu on the spring and tightening the bolts.

J.

 

What does the TSB on this problem say? It's the second to last one on the TSB page. Don't know why, but I cannot open it.

 

I had clutch squeaks on my previous stick cars, and I just greased the clutch fork. :/

 

^^^I'm not sure, I think the earlier posts and others I've found stated the dealer just threw a new master cylinder at the problem to solve it.

 

Oh alright, maybe it's a different problem...

 

WD-40 has worked for me so far.

 

My clutch is quiet but my gas pedal squeaks from time to time. lol