Mike1450

Ok I have 63K on my 04 TL 6-speed. For like the last 10-20K after I accelerate hard through 1st, 2nd, and 3rd, my clutch pedal feels really stiff and short and it snaps back hard on release. If I pump the clutch pedal all the way in and out like 3 times it goes back to normal. During normal acceleration it does not do this. WTF? I topped of the clutch fluid. I dont know if this has something to do with the stupid ass check valve on the clutch or what. Has anyone else here noticed this? It's getting kind of annoying.

Mike1450

It only does it when I shift fast, or am under full throttle. I dont know if it is both at the same time that will cause it or either. I'll check on the next ride.

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

I've been getting these symptons as well. I have just under 70k. I think the clutch is just showing it's wear and tear.

Mike1450

Thats what I was thinking. Any one else with 60K+ miles having this?

Tripnbeats

yea it happens it'll start to stutter in 1st. thats one indication its wearing down. if its tooo stiff try adding some white lithium spray grease to the links on the clutch pedal under the dash.

Mike1450

Regarding the grease- The pedal is smooth, only stiff after the quick shifts under WOT. After pumping clutch pedal its smooth. Or do you mean it will get stiffer as it wears out?

SouthernBoy

The clutch pedal and the clutch assembly have nothing to do with one another other than the fact that one controls the other. The wearing of the clutch itself should not have any adverse affect on the operation of the clutch pedal. However, a failing clutch pedal can definitely affect a the operation and longevity of a clutch. It does sound like your hydraulic control system is having concerns.

Tripnbeats

ok so how do they have nothing to do with one another? u can have acura bleed out the old fluid and put new fluid in.

SouthernBoy

By that, I meant that they are not intrinsically related/connected to one another. However, they are connected in the sense that one depends upon the action (or operation) of another. You can move the vehicle without the use of the clutch pedal at all. Not something that is recommended, but it certainly can be done.

99vtecaccord

iTrader: (8)

Sorry for bringing this post from the dead... but I've been experiencing this problem as well. Been an on-going thing. Any ideas on why this happens?

I think bleeding the clutch may fix this problem. There may be air in the lines, which causes the clutch not to disengage properly.

6MTProwler

I would try replacing the master cylinder. Its about 90 bucks.

tulliness

I have an 05 6mt with 70k...the clutch just started having a bit of a click in the pedal in it when I completely depress it, should I be worried?

piggydog

get a can of lithium grease press the pedal in and the rod will open up enough to put the straw in and spray some grease in. Fixes it for me for about 2 months now.

01tl4tl

the gen3s have a problem with the clutch slave failing
If the rubber oring seal wears down, it can allow air in every time you pump the pedal
If there is air in the system- a few pumps will make it temporarily better
If its a bad master cyl it will lose pressure as you sit with your foot on it at a light
Dont keep your foot on the clutch normally when stopped- thats just an example of testing to see which part is bad
In my years of wrenching the slave cyl goes out way more than the master cyl
Locate it and peel back the rubber boot- if fluid comes out- it was a bad part- replace it and bleed system

Its another place you need to flush fluid every year to keep moisture problems in check.
google hygroscopic for details
same goes for brake fluid- acura says start at year 3 then every year flush the brake fluid...more often is better!

01tl4tl

look in the clutch master res.- fluid clear or dark?
Is it full or low?

99vtecaccord

iTrader: (8)

are there any DIY for this fix?

m5runner

If your clutch is going out then just replace it. What is the recommended brand clutch for these cars anyway?

csmeance

OEM, the aftermarket ones are pretty crappy, at least the few that are out there. Either way, with installation and everything, it runs near 2K for a new one...

quicksilver10101

Yea I had the same exact issues around 30k...bought the car used and it was obviously driven by an idiot...When I would get on it, 1-3rd, the clutch would die out but easily come back with a few pumps. It does this because of its auto adjusting function. Due to the mileage, i swore it was the master cylinder or just needed to be bled so the dealer took the tranny apart for the 3rd gear issue and my clutch was destroyed. Luckily I have a great service manager and he warrantied the whole job which would have cost close to 2k.
Sorry but i would bet you need a new clutch if these are your symptoms.

Tylormill3r

My sincerest apologies for digging this thread out of the grave. I am still having the same problem. just had the master cylinder replaced with part number 46928-S7A-A03. It's a technical service bulliten for the clutch pedal. syptoms are a "click/pop/squeak" sound when pressing and releasing the pedal.

the click/pop/squeak is gone since the master cylinder was replaced. I was really hoping that the O-ring was bad on the piston inside the master cylinder and that after "abuse" it wouldnt fully disengage the clutch due to "blow by" inside the master cylinder.

My fluid looked like coffee and i had that completely bled out and refilled with Honda Genuine DOT brake fluid.

I would however like to add that there is also a piston inside the slave clyinder that could also fail.

I will be replacing the slave cylinder in the next few weeks.

will advise with the results.

Joey tl

i had the same symptoms i changed my clutch,master cylinder and slave cylinder now everything is perfect. my pp was really messed up which my mechanic said thats why your high rev shifts make your clutch pedal feel really stiff and short and it snaps back hard on release