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Last July I lost A/C and luckily it turned out to only be the clutch & pulley combo. Replaced it with genuine OEM parts. Before I realized the clutch was toast I assumed the refrigerant was low so I added some, even though it didn't need it. Even bought a set of manifold gages, too.
Yesterday I lost it again (95+ degrees in NJ), and it's the clutch & pulley again, so something else is clearly causing this. I noticed that when the compressor kicks on, it kicks VERY hard. I almost think I got rear-ended sometimes.
Makes sense why the soft rubber isolator in the center of the clutch is what gives out 1st, from all the hard shock, over and over again.
But why is the compressor kicking on so hard? Over-filled refrigerant? The compressor itself is only 6years/100K miles. A clog/blockage in the system, causing the compressor to work harder?
Hard to say anything without connecting the gauges. Might be too much refrigerant or too much oil. Might be improper gap on the clutch making it slip or not release completely (and overheat from friction).
when the clutch failed the first time, did it melt and lock in place or just stop engaging?
If it melted and locked in place, the compressor is still turning even with the a/c system commanded off. It keeps running and damages the system. You can end up with metal particles in the system that NEED to be flushed before installing a new compressor, otherwise the compressor will fail. Also a metering valve that is sticking could cause some issues with the "hard" engagement if it's causing a restriction.
when the clutch failed the first time, did it melt and lock in place or just stop engaging?
If it melted and locked in place, the compressor is still turning even with the a/c system commanded off. It keeps running and damages the system. You can end up with metal particles in the system that NEED to be flushed before installing a new compressor, otherwise the compressor will fail. Also a metering valve that is sticking could cause some issues with the "hard" engagement if it's causing a restriction.
It failed in the same exact manor; split into two pieces which is essentially constantly disengaged, luckily.
Hard to say anything without connecting the gauges. Might be too much refrigerant or too much oil. Might be improper gap on the clutch making it slip or not release completely (and overheat from friction).
+1, I also suspect the hard compressor engagement is due to too much oil and/or R134A. Although it's a pain to do it's probably worth while to remove all the oil and refrigerant then fill with the correct quantity for each.
FWIW, I replaced my 2005 A/C compressor last year and had in too much oil (long story as to how this happened). The too much oil eventually caused the compressor to fail after only ~6 months. I replaced it again this spring, but was much more careful with the correct amounts of oil and R134A and so far has been working great.
It failed in the same exact manor; split into two pieces which is essentially constantly disengaged, luckily.
FWIW I have a bad Denso A/C compressor (bad internals from too much oil) from last year but the pulley/clutch is good (it would engage/disengage fine). The pulley/clutch is yours free, just pay for shipping if you want it.
Also a metering valve that is sticking could cause some issues with the "hard" engagement if it's causing a restriction.
Is the metering valve AKA the relief valve? I can't find anything in the FSM pertaining "metering"
Originally Posted by Legend2TL
FWIW I have a bad Denso A/C compressor (bad internals from too much oil) from last year but the pulley/clutch is good (it would engage/disengage fine). The pulley/clutch is yours free, just pay for shipping if you want it.
Is the metering valve AKA the relief valve? I can't find anything in the FSM pertaining "metering"
YGPM
no it's the valve that controls how much refrigerant is flowing through the system and I think it's called expansion valve in the fsm... relief valve is for the compressor when it gets to too high of a pressure.
make sure you clean the lines out really well to get any metal particles from the compressor going bad. not doing so and not replacing drier will void warranty. drier comes new with condensor.
Last edited by csmeance; Jun 29, 2024 at 11:06 PM.
Well this sucks, I think I wasted $250 on a clutch & pulley, when I think I need an entire new compressor anyway which comes with both items.
The hub/snout that the pulley rides on got so chewed up that it wore the snap-ring groove completely away
...
With the new pulley installed, there's no material sticking out beyond for the snap-ring to clip into.
...
Denso is the OEM compressor mfg'r correct?
The compressor was surprisingly hard to spin by hand which had me suspicious. Probably the root of all my problems anyways.
Correct Denso is the OEM manufacturer, I've bought them and they work great. I also compared the 1st A/C compressor on my 05 TL to the Denso I got from RockAuto (^ same as above) and beside the Honda part number on the Denso plate, they are identical on the outside.
Also FWIW, when you "prime" the new Denso compressor for the replacement, the Denso instructions that come with it tell you to turn the shaft 10 turns to get the oil moved around. REMOVE the plastic plugs first otherwise the compressor will build up pressure then the outlet port plastic plug will shoot out and spray A/C pre-filled oil in the compressor all over your garage. Yes, I did that
