2008 TL Type-S Electronics and Engine Shuts down
#1
2008 TL Type-S Electronics and Engine Shuts down
Hi,
I have a 2008 TL Type S with 60,000 miles.
It all started with the NAV/Radio restarting a few weeks ago.
Now the entire car randomly shuts down. Gauges go to zero, engine stalls,loss of power and everything restarts.
Been in the Acura shop for three days and they cannot reproduce the issue. Ican’t "force" the issue either but know it will happen as soon as Ipick it up today and drive home.
Anyone have any idea?
The only CEL I received was P0685 and then a check engine light.
thanks.
I have a 2008 TL Type S with 60,000 miles.
It all started with the NAV/Radio restarting a few weeks ago.
Now the entire car randomly shuts down. Gauges go to zero, engine stalls,loss of power and everything restarts.
Been in the Acura shop for three days and they cannot reproduce the issue. Ican’t "force" the issue either but know it will happen as soon as Ipick it up today and drive home.
Anyone have any idea?
The only CEL I received was P0685 and then a check engine light.
thanks.
#4
MMkay.
iTrader: (2)
Sometimes the MICU in these cars go bad. Try this:
Unplug battery
Touch both terminals together AFTER DISCONNECTING the battery cables from the battery.
Leave the car be for an hour or until you can't wait anymore.
What this will do is drain the power from all the electronics in the vehicle. Specifically the MICU, sometimes this is all that it needs.Although if it persists, mention this to your Dealer.
Worth a shot. Hope ithelps.
Unplug battery
Touch both terminals together AFTER DISCONNECTING the battery cables from the battery.
Leave the car be for an hour or until you can't wait anymore.
What this will do is drain the power from all the electronics in the vehicle. Specifically the MICU, sometimes this is all that it needs.Although if it persists, mention this to your Dealer.
Worth a shot. Hope ithelps.
#5
yes my 07 tl does some of what z00mn8r is saying the navi restarts while im driving car has never shut off tho but i only have 68k. and it rarely does this so really havent addressed the issue to the dealer yet but please keep us updated with this so ill know next time what it is
#6
Registered Bike Offender
iTrader: (3)
+1 for the loose grounds. Particularly, the "Big 3" in the engine bay. Even if you aren't sure based on the way they look/feel, it's not a bad idea to take them off, clean the terminals and contacts with a wire brush, and then reinstall with dielectric grease.
#7
Thanks for all the replies.
Here an update:
Dealer did not do anything other than clear the CEL Code.
I started the car with the key in the ignition with the key turned 180 degrees (thinking the key or key lock may have an issue).
Had all electronics (AC / Heat / Radio / NAV) turned off.
Video taped my drive back and .... of course ... nothing happened.
I did not try to reset the MCU yet.
What I also forgot to state is when I received the CEL and trying to shut down the car I heard a "pop" similar to turning off a subwoofer.
Also, the gauges didnt go all the way to "zero". When I turned car back on and off again, all the gauges went back to zero.
Some are talking about corrosion of the PCM / ECU due to plugged AC drain lines.
However, I dont even know where to look for that.
Here an update:
Dealer did not do anything other than clear the CEL Code.
I started the car with the key in the ignition with the key turned 180 degrees (thinking the key or key lock may have an issue).
Had all electronics (AC / Heat / Radio / NAV) turned off.
Video taped my drive back and .... of course ... nothing happened.
I did not try to reset the MCU yet.
What I also forgot to state is when I received the CEL and trying to shut down the car I heard a "pop" similar to turning off a subwoofer.
Also, the gauges didnt go all the way to "zero". When I turned car back on and off again, all the gauges went back to zero.
Some are talking about corrosion of the PCM / ECU due to plugged AC drain lines.
However, I dont even know where to look for that.
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#9
Registered Bike Offender
iTrader: (3)
The Big 3 refers to the following 3 connections:
1) Alternator Positive to Battery Positive
2) Battery Negative to Chassis
3) Engine Block to Chassis
Here is a thread that will help you locate them: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/diy-big-3-1-plus-battery-cable-upgrade-867585/
If one of those is loose, it may cause symptoms such as the ones you described, so I would definitely check them out.
1) Alternator Positive to Battery Positive
2) Battery Negative to Chassis
3) Engine Block to Chassis
Here is a thread that will help you locate them: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/diy-big-3-1-plus-battery-cable-upgrade-867585/
If one of those is loose, it may cause symptoms such as the ones you described, so I would definitely check them out.
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