2008 TL Dash Lights Randomly Turns on and off
#1
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2008 TL Dash Lights Randomly Turns on and off
Car used to do what seemed to be a reset were everything would turn off and turn back on.. no further issues..
Last week it did this on me.. seems to be completely an electrical issues, no type of mechanical hesitation nor issue, just the lights turning on and off and the air conditioner stop blowing cold air, like if the compressor was turned off. No exterior lights seem to be affected either. No engine hesitation..
Anyone seen this behavior? I will be scheduling to take the car in to the dealer next week. Any feedback will be appreciated..
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Last week it did this on me.. seems to be completely an electrical issues, no type of mechanical hesitation nor issue, just the lights turning on and off and the air conditioner stop blowing cold air, like if the compressor was turned off. No exterior lights seem to be affected either. No engine hesitation..
Anyone seen this behavior? I will be scheduling to take the car in to the dealer next week. Any feedback will be appreciated..
http://
#3
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#6
Wow that's crazy. Hopefully dealer can take care of this under warranty if not I bet the cost will be huge like few grand. If you end up having to pay for it just take that car somewhere and set it on fire!! J/K I am venting cause I have a big expense coming up in the future....
#7
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Wow that's crazy. Hopefully dealer can take care of this under warranty if not I bet the cost will be huge like few grand. If you end up having to pay for it just take that car somewhere and set it on fire!! J/K I am venting cause I have a big expense coming up in the future....
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#8
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Took the car in on a scheduled appointment on Tuesday, got there 10am just as requested.
I have a bit over 60K miles on the car so I clearly stated the car had an extended warranty with Assurant Federal Warranties; have had the car since 0 miles, only owner.
Requested the dash issue to be checked, the Service Advisor completely dismissed the video recording of the dash behavior right off the bat saying they would scan for codes yada yada.
I requested the engine mounts to be inspected and also the car key which does not stay in the open position since there is a TSB on that.
I was told they would hold the car from 24-48 hours while they diagnosed the car and reported to the extended warranty company to see if they authorized the fix.
Got a call yesterday saying the scanned it, deleted codes (U0155 F-CAN MALFUNCTION ECU/PCM GAUGE CONTROL MODULE) and test drove and nothing happened (I clearly stated the behavior appeared after 15-20 minutes of driving, they drove 5 miles). He said they couldn't do more since they scanned and corrected errors.
On the mounts they stated that the extended warranty denied changing them because the car has lowering springs. I call the extended warranty issuer so they could explain why the suspension affected the engine mounts.
They said they did not deny servicing the car; they stated that since the car has less than 70K miles on it that the engine mounts are still under power train warranty and should be covered by Acura directly.
So I tell this to the service advisor and he then changes the story and says it’s because the car is lowered, so I requested a meeting with the service manager and I would be getting a call, none yet received.
I went to pick up the car today since they said it was ready at least from the cluster issue.
Driving back home it starts again.
I called the service advisor and basically blew up on him for 20 minutes for making me waste my time. Service center is around 2 hours away, lost a day and a half and they never really looked into the issue. Since the car is out of warranty I had to rent a car which would be reimbursed by Assurant but since no actual electrical module was replaced just a scan and clear of codes they had no expenses thus the car seems to have no service done so I will need to pay the car, at least Acura gave me a good rate on the car but still I'm pissed.
I specified they need to drive the car, for an extended period in order to see the actual behavior since he dismissed the video I recorded.
He said he apologized and would be talking to his manager in order to get me a loaner from the dealer so they can keep the car a couple of days and have a technician use it to troubleshoot it.
I never had any issues with the car, have always serviced it, and the Service Center had always worked politely making me buy a 2012 MDX recently for the wife.
But now since it’s out of Acura warranty they seem to want to bully me around.
I will give them a call tomorrow again to follow up.
Anyone had issues with the engine mounts and similar denial because the car has a drop?
Also the key fob issue they said its not covered since it is out of warranty.
I have a bit over 60K miles on the car so I clearly stated the car had an extended warranty with Assurant Federal Warranties; have had the car since 0 miles, only owner.
Requested the dash issue to be checked, the Service Advisor completely dismissed the video recording of the dash behavior right off the bat saying they would scan for codes yada yada.
I requested the engine mounts to be inspected and also the car key which does not stay in the open position since there is a TSB on that.
I was told they would hold the car from 24-48 hours while they diagnosed the car and reported to the extended warranty company to see if they authorized the fix.
Got a call yesterday saying the scanned it, deleted codes (U0155 F-CAN MALFUNCTION ECU/PCM GAUGE CONTROL MODULE) and test drove and nothing happened (I clearly stated the behavior appeared after 15-20 minutes of driving, they drove 5 miles). He said they couldn't do more since they scanned and corrected errors.
On the mounts they stated that the extended warranty denied changing them because the car has lowering springs. I call the extended warranty issuer so they could explain why the suspension affected the engine mounts.
They said they did not deny servicing the car; they stated that since the car has less than 70K miles on it that the engine mounts are still under power train warranty and should be covered by Acura directly.
So I tell this to the service advisor and he then changes the story and says it’s because the car is lowered, so I requested a meeting with the service manager and I would be getting a call, none yet received.
I went to pick up the car today since they said it was ready at least from the cluster issue.
Driving back home it starts again.
I called the service advisor and basically blew up on him for 20 minutes for making me waste my time. Service center is around 2 hours away, lost a day and a half and they never really looked into the issue. Since the car is out of warranty I had to rent a car which would be reimbursed by Assurant but since no actual electrical module was replaced just a scan and clear of codes they had no expenses thus the car seems to have no service done so I will need to pay the car, at least Acura gave me a good rate on the car but still I'm pissed.
I specified they need to drive the car, for an extended period in order to see the actual behavior since he dismissed the video I recorded.
He said he apologized and would be talking to his manager in order to get me a loaner from the dealer so they can keep the car a couple of days and have a technician use it to troubleshoot it.
I never had any issues with the car, have always serviced it, and the Service Center had always worked politely making me buy a 2012 MDX recently for the wife.
But now since it’s out of Acura warranty they seem to want to bully me around.
I will give them a call tomorrow again to follow up.
Anyone had issues with the engine mounts and similar denial because the car has a drop?
Also the key fob issue they said its not covered since it is out of warranty.
Last edited by EL BAN; 06-21-2012 at 04:59 PM. Reason: Missing info
#9
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iTrader: (1)
just press them.
ask them "how do lowering springs affect the MOTOR mounts?"
ask them for an indepth explanation.
you need to be the expert here.
Also, from your post, I couldnt tell if the eruption of dash lights happened for the entire life of the car or has it been just doing it recently?
if its just been doing it recently, when was the last time you changed your battery?
ask them "how do lowering springs affect the MOTOR mounts?"
ask them for an indepth explanation.
you need to be the expert here.
Also, from your post, I couldnt tell if the eruption of dash lights happened for the entire life of the car or has it been just doing it recently?
if its just been doing it recently, when was the last time you changed your battery?
Last edited by justnspace; 06-21-2012 at 05:12 PM.
#10
Road Racer / Solo Addict
Thread Starter
just press them.
ask them "how do lowering springs affect the MOTOR mounts?"
ask them for an indepth explanation.
you need to be the expert here.
Also, from your post, I couldnt tell if the eruption of dash lights happened for the entire life of the car or has it been just doing it recently?
if its just been doing it recently, when was the last time you changed your battery?
ask them "how do lowering springs affect the MOTOR mounts?"
ask them for an indepth explanation.
you need to be the expert here.
Also, from your post, I couldnt tell if the eruption of dash lights happened for the entire life of the car or has it been just doing it recently?
if its just been doing it recently, when was the last time you changed your battery?
The cluster issue started recently, began as a full reset all gauges turning off the back on and it progressed during a week into the video behavior..
Battery has been changed twice under warranty, last time was around January this year..
The following users liked this post:
justnspace (06-21-2012)
#12
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Thread Starter
Got a call half an hour ago, Service Advisor says he talked to his manager and they will be checking which car they can loan me for a couple of days while they check the car..
Currently the car has the dash still blinking.. it started around 4pm and its going to be 9:30pm and still not working, its the longest streak its had, usually it spent 10-15 minutes then worked again..
I feel the car is giving up on me, the driver door window doesn't go up now :/
Reading the forums to see if I find anything related maybe window out of the rail.. I will remove the door panel soon.. anyone had this happen?
#13
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iTrader: (1)
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/help-plugged-c-drain-ruined-ecu-720388/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/bad-news-water-pcm-ecu-warranty-advice-739328/
here are two reports of the a/c drain getting clogged causing water to drip onto the ECU/PCM.
which caused christmas lights on the dash and coils to go bad.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/bad-news-water-pcm-ecu-warranty-advice-739328/
here are two reports of the a/c drain getting clogged causing water to drip onto the ECU/PCM.
which caused christmas lights on the dash and coils to go bad.
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EL BAN (06-23-2012)
#14
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Thread Starter
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=720388
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=739328
here are two reports of the a/c drain getting clogged causing water to drip onto the ECU/PCM.
which caused christmas lights on the dash and coils to go bad.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=739328
here are two reports of the a/c drain getting clogged causing water to drip onto the ECU/PCM.
which caused christmas lights on the dash and coils to go bad.
Service advisor coordinated for next saturday have a loaner ready.. he asked me what day during the week but best day is saturday so I don't lose more days from work.. I'll keep all posted on the end fix..
#15
I have the exact same problem on my 2007 TL.
I actually signed up on here to check out this problem - I'm much more active on the Club RSX forums.
I've read a lot of threads on here about the A/C leaking water onto/into the PCM, which causes the car to throw the U0155 code. However, in those cases the car won't start, or the engine will start acting funny. My car only flashes the dash & the radio on/off.
I have noticed that this problem absolutely goes away in warmer weather (I live in Canada, so those days are hard to come by, lol)
Since the engine doesn't bog down, would this mean that our problem is different from all of theirs?
I actually signed up on here to check out this problem - I'm much more active on the Club RSX forums.
I've read a lot of threads on here about the A/C leaking water onto/into the PCM, which causes the car to throw the U0155 code. However, in those cases the car won't start, or the engine will start acting funny. My car only flashes the dash & the radio on/off.
I have noticed that this problem absolutely goes away in warmer weather (I live in Canada, so those days are hard to come by, lol)
Since the engine doesn't bog down, would this mean that our problem is different from all of theirs?
#16
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
I have the exact same problem on my 2007 TL.
I actually signed up on here to check out this problem - I'm much more active on the Club RSX forums.
I've read a lot of threads on here about the A/C leaking water onto/into the PCM, which causes the car to throw the U0155 code. However, in those cases the car won't start, or the engine will start acting funny. My car only flashes the dash & the radio on/off.
I have noticed that this problem absolutely goes away in warmer weather (I live in Canada, so those days are hard to come by, lol)
Since the engine doesn't bog down, would this mean that our problem is different from all of theirs?
I actually signed up on here to check out this problem - I'm much more active on the Club RSX forums.
I've read a lot of threads on here about the A/C leaking water onto/into the PCM, which causes the car to throw the U0155 code. However, in those cases the car won't start, or the engine will start acting funny. My car only flashes the dash & the radio on/off.
I have noticed that this problem absolutely goes away in warmer weather (I live in Canada, so those days are hard to come by, lol)
Since the engine doesn't bog down, would this mean that our problem is different from all of theirs?
in the other cases, the coil packs went bad which caused the engine to bog.
so, if your engine isnt bogging, the coil packs must have not gone bad yet.
or it could be totally un-related.
#17
Well actually I forgot to mention that my car is throwing that same U0155 code.
Although, that code only specifies that the ECM/PCM is malfunctioning, not that there's water in it ..
Maybe I missed it, but is there a way to fix this that doesn't involve changing the PCM? ($$ )
Although, that code only specifies that the ECM/PCM is malfunctioning, not that there's water in it ..
Maybe I missed it, but is there a way to fix this that doesn't involve changing the PCM? ($$ )
#18
Road Racer / Solo Addict
Thread Starter
I have the exact same problem on my 2007 TL.
I actually signed up on here to check out this problem - I'm much more active on the Club RSX forums.
I've read a lot of threads on here about the A/C leaking water onto/into the PCM, which causes the car to throw the U0155 code. However, in those cases the car won't start, or the engine will start acting funny. My car only flashes the dash & the radio on/off.
I have noticed that this problem absolutely goes away in warmer weather (I live in Canada, so those days are hard to come by, lol)
Since the engine doesn't bog down, would this mean that our problem is different from all of theirs?
I actually signed up on here to check out this problem - I'm much more active on the Club RSX forums.
I've read a lot of threads on here about the A/C leaking water onto/into the PCM, which causes the car to throw the U0155 code. However, in those cases the car won't start, or the engine will start acting funny. My car only flashes the dash & the radio on/off.
I have noticed that this problem absolutely goes away in warmer weather (I live in Canada, so those days are hard to come by, lol)
Since the engine doesn't bog down, would this mean that our problem is different from all of theirs?
1. It is totally unrelated
2. It hasn't gotten to that point yet :/
As for the weather, I am down in PR, so its summer all year. Although Humidity is killer here..
Well actually I forgot to mention that my car is throwing that same U0155 code.
Although, that code only specifies that the ECM/PCM is malfunctioning, not that there's water in it ..
Maybe I missed it, but is there a way to fix this that doesn't involve changing the PCM? ($$ )
Although, that code only specifies that the ECM/PCM is malfunctioning, not that there's water in it ..
Maybe I missed it, but is there a way to fix this that doesn't involve changing the PCM? ($$ )
All they did was scan delete and send the car out, thats why I was so pissed.. No troubleshooting etc..
I will be taking in on Saturday and leaving it a couple of days so they can try to replicate the issue..
The car shows the behavior now for a full day and check engine goes on, next day everything working fine and check engine off all by itself..
The actual scanner read that there was a communication loss from the IPC module (instrument panel control module)
#19
Never take your car to the dealer. I bought myself the service manual, electronics manual and hds system.
Every single time I tried to bring my car into the dealer to get some warranty work done they would find a way to get around it. So I said fuck it, cancelled Acura care and bought my own shit.
Every single time I tried to bring my car into the dealer to get some warranty work done they would find a way to get around it. So I said fuck it, cancelled Acura care and bought my own shit.
#20
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Never take your car to the dealer. I bought myself the service manual, electronics manual and hds system.
Every single time I tried to bring my car into the dealer to get some warranty work done they would find a way to get around it. So I said fuck it, cancelled Acura care and bought my own shit.
Every single time I tried to bring my car into the dealer to get some warranty work done they would find a way to get around it. So I said fuck it, cancelled Acura care and bought my own shit.
I play around and work on the track car anytime. It currently is going thru a full engine build.
But I expect the daily to always get me to work, to have a warranty that handles this type of stuff which is not our fault as owners, shit happens to cars and that's why I paid for an extended warranty in order to take care of this type of bullshit..
Saturday I will drop it off and pick up the loaner and follow up on the thread during the week..
Again don't take this wrong, I understand your point and completely respect it..
#22
I understand your statement, but beg to differ given this is my daily.
I play around and work on the track car anytime. It currently is going thru a full engine build.
But I expect the daily to always get me to work, to have a warranty that handles this type of stuff which is not our fault as owners, shit happens to cars and that's why I paid for an extended warranty in order to take care of this type of bullshit..
Saturday I will drop it off and pick up the loaner and follow up on the thread during the week..
Again don't take this wrong, I understand your point and completely respect it..
I play around and work on the track car anytime. It currently is going thru a full engine build.
But I expect the daily to always get me to work, to have a warranty that handles this type of stuff which is not our fault as owners, shit happens to cars and that's why I paid for an extended warranty in order to take care of this type of bullshit..
Saturday I will drop it off and pick up the loaner and follow up on the thread during the week..
Again don't take this wrong, I understand your point and completely respect it..
I work on my rsx myself, but as far as the TL goes, it has a warranty for a reason. They should be able to figure out what's wrong and fix it. It is their job after all, lol
Lately the problem (might) have gotten worse .. It lasts longer than it used to. Sometimes for a whole trip the speedometer doesn't even move. My radio still works though, even if it doesn't show up on the screen, which is odd.
#23
Road Racer / Solo Addict
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I must say I agree with this (For argument's sake, I do understand both points of view though)
I work on my rsx myself, but as far as the TL goes, it has a warranty for a reason. They should be able to figure out what's wrong and fix it. It is their job after all, lol
Lately the problem (might) have gotten worse .. It lasts longer than it used to. Sometimes for a whole trip the speedometer doesn't even move. My radio still works though, even if it doesn't show up on the screen, which is odd.
I work on my rsx myself, but as far as the TL goes, it has a warranty for a reason. They should be able to figure out what's wrong and fix it. It is their job after all, lol
Lately the problem (might) have gotten worse .. It lasts longer than it used to. Sometimes for a whole trip the speedometer doesn't even move. My radio still works though, even if it doesn't show up on the screen, which is odd.
The car was dropped at the service center last Saturday, they started working on it on Monday.
Got a call on Tuesday from the Service Advisor letting me know they quoted the window regulator issue.. $300 bucks.. Service Advisor forgot I had Extended Warranty so I requested him to verify coverage, he said he would call Assurant and let me know..
I asked him about the dash issue, he stated they scanned all codes on the car and called Acura in the US, they were guided on performing and ECU software update, he didn't give me any specifics but he stated the car had been tested and up until that point the behavior had not repeated.
I stated that I needed them to drive the car for at least 35-40 min to replicate the issue. He said to not worry, they would have a tech guy use the car in order to verify it didn't appear again.
He called back an hour after to let me know the window regulator would be covered by the extended warranty.. Parts were ordered Tuesday and they would be receiving them either today or tomorrow..
Called today to check up on status but the service advisor was not in, so they couldn't give me a status or update on the car..
I will be calling in tomorrow 7am to check on the car, I will be spending the weekend on the east part of the Island with some friends and was planning on driving down in the MDX so I could haul everybody and drive in a single car, but I have a dealer loaner since Saturday and the contract stated if they called before 12 mid day I would need to pick up my car and hand in the loaner by 7pm same day or would be charged for usage. So I need to know If the car might be ready tomorrow or saturday so I go in the loaner or if it will probably take until Monday so I can drive down in the MDX..
Will keep you posted. Still worried since no actual parts have been changed due to the dash lighting issue and am afraid that driving it back I will get the same behavior..
#25
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Got a call today near 3pm that it was ready. Got there near 6:30pm.
Verifying the car I noticed the auto function on the newly installed window regulator was not working. They tried programming and then the window would stop working. I was really pissed.
They told me to leave the car again to get worked tomorrow.
Took the loaner again, requested in detail what was done to correct the dash issue and again they stated the issue was not replicated by the tecnitian after resetting and updating the PCM. I clearly stated the car needed to be driven.. for an extended period of time..
They drove again for 5 miles..
They asked me if I authorized an "overnight" meaning a tech guy would use it to try to replicate.. I looked at the person asking this from me and said thats exactly why I left the car here last week and why you have had it for 7 days..
I signed an authorization and left the car again..
All I want is my car fixed.. is that too much to ask for?
Verifying the car I noticed the auto function on the newly installed window regulator was not working. They tried programming and then the window would stop working. I was really pissed.
They told me to leave the car again to get worked tomorrow.
Took the loaner again, requested in detail what was done to correct the dash issue and again they stated the issue was not replicated by the tecnitian after resetting and updating the PCM. I clearly stated the car needed to be driven.. for an extended period of time..
They drove again for 5 miles..
They asked me if I authorized an "overnight" meaning a tech guy would use it to try to replicate.. I looked at the person asking this from me and said thats exactly why I left the car here last week and why you have had it for 7 days..
I signed an authorization and left the car again..
All I want is my car fixed.. is that too much to ask for?
#26
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Thread Starter
Update, after last visit I authorized the "overnight" and the tecs were able to see the problem up front. Monday I received a call from the Service Advisor, stated the Gauge cluster was swapped out with one from another car and it was working correctly, they ordered and received a new one last Friday, installed and road tested for a long period and gave me a call to pick up today.
Sadly the Auto function on the driver window was not fixed. Pointed it out and they tried to program manually with no luck, they took it to the service area and tried programming with some type of hand held no luck either.
This entire window regulator was changed for a new one, apparently it came defective from Honda/Acura and they will order another one but the car needs to be seen by the person that authorizes the "special services" since it was replaced and will need to be re done based on the defective OEM parts. They would give me a call, I understand this would also be the person to claim the motor mounts also.
So I will be checking on that soon.
Drove the car back from the Service Center to my house (2+ hrs drive) and was working correctly.. hopefully it will continue this way..
Sadly the Auto function on the driver window was not fixed. Pointed it out and they tried to program manually with no luck, they took it to the service area and tried programming with some type of hand held no luck either.
This entire window regulator was changed for a new one, apparently it came defective from Honda/Acura and they will order another one but the car needs to be seen by the person that authorizes the "special services" since it was replaced and will need to be re done based on the defective OEM parts. They would give me a call, I understand this would also be the person to claim the motor mounts also.
So I will be checking on that soon.
Drove the car back from the Service Center to my house (2+ hrs drive) and was working correctly.. hopefully it will continue this way..
#27
So .. I'm not sure I understood correctly.
What was done in detail to fix the flashing lights problem?
Maybe I missed it, but it seems like all they did was reset/update the PCM, then fix your window?
What was done in detail to fix the flashing lights problem?
Maybe I missed it, but it seems like all they did was reset/update the PCM, then fix your window?
#28
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Originally Posted by EL BAN
Monday I received a call from the Service Advisor, stated the Gauge cluster was swapped out with one from another car and it was working correctly, they ordered and received a new one last Friday, installed and road tested for a long period and gave me a call to pick up today.
#29
My lights don't currently flicker on/off, but my problem is similar. My problem is actually more similar to AznKirby's issue that during cold weather, the lights act up a bit more and the dashboard lights don't even turn on. Was replacing the instrument panel is the ultimate fix for this?
#30
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At least in my case it was, it was replaced back in July and its been hassle free since then..
#33
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Well, I am not sure really how difficult it is.
I have worked on many Honda's and as long as you have some type of install instructions pointing to were all the clips and screws are it should be straight forward..
On the TL I did not perform this since it was still under warranty, I understand the Dealer quoted the whole work for around 1100 with the Gauge Cluster running around 900.
If you are NOT under warranty or you cannot demonstrate this is a defect from Acura and you need to perform it yourself I would recommend getting a quote directly from some online pats dealer and searching for instructions on taking the dash apart. I did so on my own and found the Cluster to be more cheaper than what the dealer quoted it for..
Now I don't know how exactly the dealer passes the info from the old cluster to the new one to retain millage etc..
They might say you can't do the work yourself in order for them to program it before installing and it might be BS just to get you to do it with them..
I have worked on many Honda's and as long as you have some type of install instructions pointing to were all the clips and screws are it should be straight forward..
On the TL I did not perform this since it was still under warranty, I understand the Dealer quoted the whole work for around 1100 with the Gauge Cluster running around 900.
If you are NOT under warranty or you cannot demonstrate this is a defect from Acura and you need to perform it yourself I would recommend getting a quote directly from some online pats dealer and searching for instructions on taking the dash apart. I did so on my own and found the Cluster to be more cheaper than what the dealer quoted it for..
Now I don't know how exactly the dealer passes the info from the old cluster to the new one to retain millage etc..
They might say you can't do the work yourself in order for them to program it before installing and it might be BS just to get you to do it with them..
#35
Road Racer / Solo Addict
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And I would think instructions to take the dash apart should be available around the site since it should be similar to all other TL years..
Good Luck!
#36
How much was that? What did it fix? Did you have remote linking problems? Lights flickering dash lights symbols? Outside temp not working and ac? Any if I would be appreciate.
#37
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Thread Starter
It fixed my issue of the flickering dash lights which kept getting worse until the dash stopped lighting up taking away the center console lights also and leaving me with no AC nor Radio in the process.
Radio and AC seem to be connected in a full loop where if the dash goes out you cannot control any of them.
They replaced the whole gauge cluster and all the issues were solved..
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