Hey guys, I am absolutly stumped on this issue. Replacing the lower ball joint on my 2007 TL-S seems to be the biggest pain in my ass.

The MOOG Part #: K500117 is what shows up as the replacement part at my local auto parts stores, also what I have found on acurazine. As shown in the picture below, the MOOG balljoint is the one on the right, significantly different than the stock one I pulled out of my knuckle on the left.

CAM00602_zpsc1e8b02e.jpg?t=1374625512

I also went to the extent of going to Acura to get an OEM ball joint, part number: 51220-SDA-305 ...which is what shows up for the TL Base and Type S.
This one does not work as well, as it is identical to the moog part.

01 Prelude and 04-08 TSX balljoints were also recommended on Azine, but they look like the MOOG one as well. I dont know what part to use anymore, and I really would like to avoid getting a whole new knuckle only to find out they are using the same balljoint that doesnt work on my application in that knuckle.

Hope this makes sense! Please help!

 

The one you pulled out still has the silver metal piece on it that needs to go back on the lower control arm. Get the new ball joint pressed back on to the knuckle and put everything back together and you should be fine

 

^+1, the lower control arm sleeve is still stuck onto the ball joint, here's a thread you should read:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/how-get-lower-ball-joint-back-into-lca-860357/


interesting that the moog one is taller than oem, but I guess it wouldn't make much difference

 

one thing to note is that the moog ball joint comes with an insufficiently sized nut, so I would recommend putting a washer on it. unless they have recalled them all for a new design, I'm not sure.

here's the thread on that: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-tires-wheels-suspension-97/fyi-aftermarket-moog-balljoint-k500117-beware-805131/

 

You could just re-use the OEM castle nut. Though it looks to me like the Moog part doesn't have the hole for the cotter pin to go in. I would not use that without a cotter pin. :\

BTW: The manual mentions that if you accidentially pull that sleeve out of the LCA, you should replace the LCA. I'm not sure why though. I do know several people on this board have just pressed that sleeve back in and kept on running. You are gonna have a time getting that sleeve off the old BJ though.

BTW: Why are you replacing that ball joint? Just because the boot is torn? You can buy a new boot for $12 if the joint is still good.

 

Thank you all for your great help, Got the sleeve out no problem. Stupid me! Should have noticed this lol. It pressed into the control arm no problem as well!

Yeah the moog balljoint is the revised version with the bigger nut, which has a hex shape on the inside of it like a lock nut.

Thank you thank you thank you everyone. Made my night, and my laptop is going to die so i shall post more later!

 

Okay now that my computer is charged up, I can respond.

Its taller because the other one is cut in half, and used a thor like hammer to mash it out of the knuckle, and it it is just sitting on top of the other half lop sided.

The MOOG ball joint has a thicker stud and a nut bigger than the sleeve with the new design. My car has 205,000 KM of harsh driving, the front end is all kinds of clunky with tons of play in the lower ball joints. Best to replace them before they decide to take a vacation!

 

Is the Moog balljoint sealed or does it have a zerk fitting on it?

Did you replace both sides?

 

So what did you do since the Moog balljoint didn't fit in the sleeve?

 

It is a sealed unit. Just the one side for tonight, now that I know what I am doing, I will be doing the otherside this week.

The Moog did fit in the sleeve. The threaded portion is thicker, along side the supplied nut is wider. Allowing it to cover the entire base of the knuckle so that the nut and sleeve dont pull out as one and cause a disaster like it has on the previous generation of moog balljoints.

 

I actually have a busted boot on my lower balljoint but my local mechanic had a bish of a time trying to get it out so I just put a new boot over it and packed with grease and clamped it shut. I know, kinda ghetto but gets the job done!

 

I replaced my driver's side one, was a pain.

I used a big hammer and an impact socket and fit it over the bottom of the ball-joint then pounded away on the socket until it came out. Have to remove the metal ring from inside of the knuckle on the inside of the wheel bearing first, there's a sensor there too have to be careful for.

I couldn't fit the press any way over the ball-joint to try to press it out.

Pressing in a new one was easy with a rented ball-joint press and the honda ball-joint adapter though.

 

For those of you not familiar with these tools, here they are in use on a Civic/Integra knuckle: http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2987276

 

Great link, eg, thank you...
Know why mine busted? Cause I'm a dumbass that used a fork to try and pop that balljoint. Fk...

 

Yeah the fork thing sucks. You can get a cheap tool called a "tie rod lifter" from Amazon that won't rip the boot.

But no matter what tool you use, ball joints are a pain to pop out.

 

How did you get the old one pressed out? The rental tool from OReilly/Autozone doesn't fit properly into the inside.

 

I don't get why everyone has such a boner for Moog brand. It's common knowledge these days that even their premium lineup for Honda & Acura is just re-bagged parts from Sankei 555 Three Five. It's still cheap crap. You can even get the Sankei parts in a Sankei box for less money on ebay most of the time.

I know for a fact because I've personally purchased their parts and fond the 555 on logo on everything. Many other have noticed the same thing as well. Even Moog's Toyota parts are 555.

Save yourself some trouble and buy Honda.

 

So I have to this soon, your saying to buy oem balljoints? And not moog? Because moog are made cheaply built? I just replaced my Lower control arms and mess them up. I'm not sure if I should do it myself or take it to a mechanic.