2006 TL starting problem
11-23-2011, 10:11 PM
#1
Cruisin'
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2006 TL starting problem
Hello,
I drove my car over 300 miles in 2 days (yesterday and today) and had no problems at all... the car was running smooth and everything. Then I went to work, parked the car and came back after an hour later only to see that the car won't turn on. The dash lights all come on as soon as u turn the key to position I and II. But when I turned the key again to crank the engine, no sound at all... The engine does not turn over nor cranks. The HID lights work fine and bright as usual.
The starter in my previous Accord had failed and I remember that it used to click a few times... A few turns of the key and the engine would run until the starter died one day. I do not hear such clicks in this Acura. Could this be a starter problem?
I attempted to jump the car, but to no avail.
I even held the key in completely turned position for a few more seconds than usual, but the car did not start not did I hear any kind of sounds.
Please HELP!!
Thanks
I drove my car over 300 miles in 2 days (yesterday and today) and had no problems at all... the car was running smooth and everything. Then I went to work, parked the car and came back after an hour later only to see that the car won't turn on. The dash lights all come on as soon as u turn the key to position I and II. But when I turned the key again to crank the engine, no sound at all... The engine does not turn over nor cranks. The HID lights work fine and bright as usual.
The starter in my previous Accord had failed and I remember that it used to click a few times... A few turns of the key and the engine would run until the starter died one day. I do not hear such clicks in this Acura. Could this be a starter problem?
I attempted to jump the car, but to no avail.
I even held the key in completely turned position for a few more seconds than usual, but the car did not start not did I hear any kind of sounds.
Please HELP!!
Thanks
11-24-2011, 09:13 AM
#2
3G TL/2G MDX Owner
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starter. do battery check just in case, but sounds like a starter...could be something else. my old civic way back when did this one morning. its pretty much dead, turn key nothing. can't recall what ended up getting fixed, but i know it cost me $700 to get the car running again.
11-24-2011, 09:31 AM
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Cruisin'
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Thanks for the reply. A couple more things I forgot to mention. One is that, the steering wheel is completely locked. It does not move at all. Also, The brake pedal seems locked... It cannot be pressed. The second thing is that when I turned the key all the way and held it there, the red Alarm LED would blink two times. These symptoms make me wonder if it the car immobilizer activated and immobilized the vehicle.
I always thought that the starter usually falters a few times before dying completely.
Thanks
I always thought that the starter usually falters a few times before dying completely.
Thanks
11-24-2011, 09:36 AM
#4
3G TL/2G MDX Owner
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hmmm...could be that something else. this car has a lot of electronics in it, so...might be best to take it somewhere to check for codes or to the dealer (they usually see the common stuff with our cars and not so common). 
11-24-2011, 02:39 PM
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Cruisin'
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So I finally called AAA and the guy came out. He saw that the engine would not even crank, so he asked me to sit in the driver's seat and turn & hold the key all the way while he hits the starter with the breaker bar. 3-4 hits and the engine roared to life. I brought the car home and turned the engine off... when tried again, it would not start until the starter was hit again..
So definitely the starter. I read elsewhere on the forum that when replacing the starter, one should go with only OEM. Is that true?
Thanks
So definitely the starter. I read elsewhere on the forum that when replacing the starter, one should go with only OEM. Is that true?
Thanks
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11-24-2011, 05:47 PM
#8
Cruisin'
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No other reason than the price. But today being a holiday, I have not been able to contact any mechanic to get a quote. How much money should I expect to shell out for this job?
Within 2 months of buying this car, I have already spent $130 buying Redline racing ATF and $80 to get it replaced using 3X3 drain-fill. I wonder how much more this starter job is going to set me back by?
Within 2 months of buying this car, I have already spent $130 buying Redline racing ATF and $80 to get it replaced using 3X3 drain-fill. I wonder how much more this starter job is going to set me back by?
11-28-2011, 12:42 AM
#17
2006 acura tl starting issue
Hi I'm new to this forum stuff so bare with me. But I just recently purchased my 2006 acura tl used at a dealership with 52k. They tried to let me leave the lot with the gas light on and I demanded they put gas in it. Come to find out they put the wrong gas in it. and ever since I left the lot I have been having problems with it starting. It will start up perfect some days in the morning but once its been driven and the engine is warm, I turn it off let it sit for maybe 10 minute or even all day and I go to start it up and it will turn over and over and over then putter to start like it wants to stall out. once its on the car runs perfect its just the initial start. Any suggestions on what it might be so i can tell the dealership thats claiming nothing is wrong can fix it?? thanks
12-13-2011, 10:16 PM
#18
2007 6SMT Type-S
Went out to my car tonight, turned the key and **click**. Turned key off, and turned it back to start position and it fired up. Went to eat on a date, after the date went to start and *click**. Could not get it started after that. Had to have my date push the car and I was able to pop the clutch to get her going. The date thought it was funny but I wasn't impressed. The car only has 70K miles on it.
My 1st gen TL's starter went out and I paid $135 for them to rebuild it. Is that the same case for our 3rd gens?
My 1st gen TL's starter went out and I paid $135 for them to rebuild it. Is that the same case for our 3rd gens?
12-14-2011, 11:26 AM
#20
Went out to my car tonight, turned the key and **click**. Turned key off, and turned it back to start position and it fired up. Went to eat on a date, after the date went to start and *click**. Could not get it started after that. Had to have my date push the car and I was able to pop the clutch to get her going. The date thought it was funny but I wasn't impressed. The car only has 70K miles on it.
My 1st gen TL's starter went out and I paid $135 for them to rebuild it. Is that the same case for our 3rd gens?
My 1st gen TL's starter went out and I paid $135 for them to rebuild it. Is that the same case for our 3rd gens?
12-19-2011, 05:40 PM
#21
2007 6SMT Type-S
With mine it sounds like the same issue. I have a 3rde gen. but mines been in and out of the shop trying to have them figure out the problem. Its been a trial and error thing. Id start it up cold drive it til its warm, let it sit then start it up again and it would act like it wasnt going to start then putter and fire. IDK what it could be, but they have changed the fuel injectors, run cleaner through it but still it continues to act up... did you get yours fixed?
Fixed it Sunday night. Bought a remanufactured OEM starter from dealership for $300 (3 year/36,000 mile warranty. New was $350 with 1 year/12,000 mile warranty) Swapped it out in about an hour and no problems starting since.
Can you explain what you meant by the car would putter and fire? Are you depressing the gas when trying to start? I know that if I try to start my car and I prematurely let the key spring back to the "II" position the car won't crank enough to start. Then when I immediately try to start it again it’s even harder to start and sputters just momentarily. Then all is good. This is normal as my 1 gen was the same way. I try never to over crank the car.
12-19-2011, 06:05 PM
#22
2007 6SMT Type-S
You will always hear some sort of click sound even if your starter and battery are good. However, if your starter is good, the sound of it cranking the engine will drown out the single click you would hear. I believe that click is the solenoid engaging??
The way I have learned to diagnose over the past 14 years (and have never been wrong yet is
Rapid clicking with a single turn of the key (and no start) means battery and/or terminals: Most likely: dead battery. Could also be loose terminals on battery, bad ground, or dirty/corrosion on terminals, or bad alternator in conjunction with dead battery. This happen because there is a strong enough connection, or enough power to run say, the radio and instrument cluster but not enough power for the heavy electrical demand the starter puts on the battery and/or terminals.
One click with single turn of the key and loss of accessory power (and no start) could also mean any of the above ^
One click with single turn of the key and followed by the engine turning over very slowly is a dead battery. If the engine cranks slowly and stop with the key still in the “start” position is also a dead battery.
One click with single turn of the key and NO loss of accessory power (i.e.: headlights stay on) is 99% of the time the starter.
Sorry if I reiterated some of my fellow forum members but I think this is the most complete way to differentiate between the electrical system and the started short of having a multi-meter to aide in the process.
The way I have learned to diagnose over the past 14 years (and have never been wrong yet is
Rapid clicking with a single turn of the key (and no start) means battery and/or terminals: Most likely: dead battery. Could also be loose terminals on battery, bad ground, or dirty/corrosion on terminals, or bad alternator in conjunction with dead battery. This happen because there is a strong enough connection, or enough power to run say, the radio and instrument cluster but not enough power for the heavy electrical demand the starter puts on the battery and/or terminals.
One click with single turn of the key and loss of accessory power (and no start) could also mean any of the above ^
One click with single turn of the key and followed by the engine turning over very slowly is a dead battery. If the engine cranks slowly and stop with the key still in the “start” position is also a dead battery.
One click with single turn of the key and NO loss of accessory power (i.e.: headlights stay on) is 99% of the time the starter.
Sorry if I reiterated some of my fellow forum members but I think this is the most complete way to differentiate between the electrical system and the started short of having a multi-meter to aide in the process.
12-19-2011, 06:14 PM
#23
2007 6SMT Type-S
"If you ain't got no tools, you're screwed." <--LOL!
12-21-2011, 02:44 PM
#24
Fixed it Sunday night. Bought a remanufactured OEM starter from dealership for $300 (3 year/36,000 mile warranty. New was $350 with 1 year/12,000 mile warranty) Swapped it out in about an hour and no problems starting since.
Can you explain what you meant by the car would putter and fire? Are you depressing the gas when trying to start? I know that if I try to start my car and I prematurely let the key spring back to the "II" position the car won't crank enough to start. Then when I immediately try to start it again it’s even harder to start and sputters just momentarily. Then all is good. This is normal as my 1 gen was the same way. I try never to over crank the car.
Can you explain what you meant by the car would putter and fire? Are you depressing the gas when trying to start? I know that if I try to start my car and I prematurely let the key spring back to the "II" position the car won't crank enough to start. Then when I immediately try to start it again it’s even harder to start and sputters just momentarily. Then all is good. This is normal as my 1 gen was the same way. I try never to over crank the car.
01-01-2012, 06:59 PM
#26
1st Gear
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Same issue!
I'm having the exact same problem. I thought it was the anti-theft system. I have an appointment with the dealership in the morning. If my car doesn't start, I'll try tapping the starter.
01-03-2012, 12:25 AM
#27
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basic preventative maintenance can certainly avoid most of these problems. Don't replace the injectors. Do a fuel induction and injection service? Use the correct fuel recommended otherwise you 'll wonder why your engine is making pinging noises during hard acceleration. Follow the maintenance program.
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