2006 TL air conditioning self diag code meaning?
#1
4th Gear
Thread Starter
2006 TL air conditioning self diag code meaning?
My 2006 TL isn't cooling very well.
I did the self diag test and getting one segment lighting up. Can someone translate the meaning? I would like to be educated before I head into the repair shop.
The one segment that is lighting is in the left digit of the passenger side. The lower right vertical segment.
Thanks!
I did the self diag test and getting one segment lighting up. Can someone translate the meaning? I would like to be educated before I head into the repair shop.
The one segment that is lighting is in the left digit of the passenger side. The lower right vertical segment.
Thanks!
Last edited by LoveMyTL-S; 06-18-2012 at 08:04 AM. Reason: Fixed
#2
Safety Car
iTrader: (7)
If you can wait until monday or tuesday I can upload a picture that will tell you what it means.
The reason why I tell you to wait is because I have class monday and I can use the computer to get AllData information. I took HVAC last course and was browsing through AllData for my TL and ran into the self diagnosis feature which I thought was pretty cool.
I'll snap a few cell phone pictures and post them for you monday/tuesday
The reason why I tell you to wait is because I have class monday and I can use the computer to get AllData information. I took HVAC last course and was browsing through AllData for my TL and ran into the self diagnosis feature which I thought was pretty cool.
I'll snap a few cell phone pictures and post them for you monday/tuesday
#4
Suzuka Master
subbed for this also, interesting.
The following 2 users liked this post by Azndjay:
bktx (06-17-2012),
Project 04TL (08-23-2013)
#7
4th Gear
Thread Starter
Thanks. I am getting 'n' if I do the test when the car is running. No faults if the car is not running but in ignition setting.
Passenger ac is warmer then driver, but neither are cool when it's hot out.
Not sure what to make of the error... Or if we have more going on. Doesn't seam like it is strictly a passenger air mix issue.
Passenger ac is warmer then driver, but neither are cool when it's hot out.
Not sure what to make of the error... Or if we have more going on. Doesn't seam like it is strictly a passenger air mix issue.
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#8
Safety Car
iTrader: (7)
Take it to a shop to get it tested. Take a ac thermometer and place it in your middle vent closest to the drivers side. Put your AC fan speed on MAX, air to recirculate inside the car, and temperature to "LO". Close all car doors and let the car idle for 5 minutes and check the reading on the thermometer. Ideal temperature should be 30-40 degrees lower than outside ambient temperature.
Low side readings should be 25-40 PSI. High side readings should be 150-200PSI.
Check your AC lines to see if you have any possible leaks.
Your passenger mode or blend door might be at fault.
If you get it checked out please come back and post details and results!
Low side readings should be 25-40 PSI. High side readings should be 150-200PSI.
Check your AC lines to see if you have any possible leaks.
Your passenger mode or blend door might be at fault.
If you get it checked out please come back and post details and results!
#9
4th Gear
Thread Starter
Ok - here are a few more things -
1. Outside temp 89, car running at idle for 5 minutes with AC on lo, max fan, etc. left middle vent temp is typically 65, but goes as low as 58 at one point. Typically more around 65. right vent is ~10 warmer.
2. Should the diag be done with the car running or no? When running "n" lights 75% of the time. When off, no errors are detected ever.
3. "fog" comes out of the air vents when driving in the mornings. don't have temp reading when this is happening.
4. When driving in Texas weather with 90+ degrees and reasonable humidity on long road trips, occasional air flow slows down until practically stops. Turn off the AC mode w/ external air and air flow slowly increases and feels cold until it is at full flow and warm.
Is this something a local shop should be able to address or should I head to acura?
1. Outside temp 89, car running at idle for 5 minutes with AC on lo, max fan, etc. left middle vent temp is typically 65, but goes as low as 58 at one point. Typically more around 65. right vent is ~10 warmer.
2. Should the diag be done with the car running or no? When running "n" lights 75% of the time. When off, no errors are detected ever.
3. "fog" comes out of the air vents when driving in the mornings. don't have temp reading when this is happening.
4. When driving in Texas weather with 90+ degrees and reasonable humidity on long road trips, occasional air flow slows down until practically stops. Turn off the AC mode w/ external air and air flow slowly increases and feels cold until it is at full flow and warm.
Is this something a local shop should be able to address or should I head to acura?
#10
Racer
Sounds like low on gas (R-134) & causing the evaporator to "ice -up" which blocks air flow to the register outlets until evap. thaws out gives you the fog out the oulets. Get the system checked for correct amount of R-134.
#11
Safety Car
iTrader: (7)
Ok - here are a few more things -
1. Outside temp 89, car running at idle for 5 minutes with AC on lo, max fan, etc. left middle vent temp is typically 65, but goes as low as 58 at one point. Typically more around 65. right vent is ~10 warmer.
2. Should the diag be done with the car running or no? When running "n" lights 75% of the time. When off, no errors are detected ever.
3. "fog" comes out of the air vents when driving in the mornings. don't have temp reading when this is happening.
4. When driving in Texas weather with 90+ degrees and reasonable humidity on long road trips, occasional air flow slows down until practically stops. Turn off the AC mode w/ external air and air flow slowly increases and feels cold until it is at full flow and warm.
Is this something a local shop should be able to address or should I head to acura?
1. Outside temp 89, car running at idle for 5 minutes with AC on lo, max fan, etc. left middle vent temp is typically 65, but goes as low as 58 at one point. Typically more around 65. right vent is ~10 warmer.
2. Should the diag be done with the car running or no? When running "n" lights 75% of the time. When off, no errors are detected ever.
3. "fog" comes out of the air vents when driving in the mornings. don't have temp reading when this is happening.
4. When driving in Texas weather with 90+ degrees and reasonable humidity on long road trips, occasional air flow slows down until practically stops. Turn off the AC mode w/ external air and air flow slowly increases and feels cold until it is at full flow and warm.
Is this something a local shop should be able to address or should I head to acura?
It's either that or you have a restriction (contamination or other debris) in the system somewhere.
The test is supposed to be with the car on and engine running.
Here's one last test. Try turning the car on, engine running, AC LO, Fan speed MAX and open your hood and locate the AC Compressor clutch. It's by the windshield wiper fluid on the left side (passenger side) of the engine bay.
Try to see if you notice the AC Compressor clutch constantly cycling on, off, on, off, every 3 or 5 seconds...
If you notice it cycling on and off every few seconds than it's a good indication that your system is low on charge.
If you DO NOT notice it cycling on and off frequently (every 1-5 seconds) than the system isn't lacking refrigerant, but could still possibly use a recharge.
I would highly recommend you either taking it to a independent (trusted of course) shop or Acura dealership to have it serviced.
Don't try going to autozone or o'reilly autoparts to buy a can of refrigerant to add for yourself. 80% of the products they sell on the shelves contain "Leak-Seal" inside the refrigerant. Leak-Seal is a big NO NO. It's bad for the AC system as it only temporarily provides a "band-aid" fix if your system does have a leak.... Will cause more problems down the road.
The following users liked this post:
bktx (06-20-2012)
#12
4th Gear
Thread Starter
Thanks everyone for the advice. It was nice to go into my trusted place with good questions. And no, I don't have any intent of adding a can of something from autozone.
Here's the shop update for those keeping score.
The shop checked the pressures and they were low. They then evacuated the system (5oz refrigerant removed) and found no clear problems. Refilled system with proper amount of refrigerant (19oz is what they told me) including dye for leak detection. They identified a small leak on the high side schrader valve and no other indications of leaks. Replaced schrader valve.
So system was clearly low... and it has slowly been getting worse over years so it may just be the valve. Fingers crossed!
And it passes the self diagnosis now all the time. Wondering how the diagnosis decides the air-mix is functional? Thinking out loud, does it compare temps in and out? I am wondering if there is an abnormal temp difference over the coil with low refrigerant that might make one side not cool well and it detects it as air-mix failure.
Anyway, my TL is cooling well again! Thanks for all the tips!
Here's the shop update for those keeping score.
The shop checked the pressures and they were low. They then evacuated the system (5oz refrigerant removed) and found no clear problems. Refilled system with proper amount of refrigerant (19oz is what they told me) including dye for leak detection. They identified a small leak on the high side schrader valve and no other indications of leaks. Replaced schrader valve.
So system was clearly low... and it has slowly been getting worse over years so it may just be the valve. Fingers crossed!
And it passes the self diagnosis now all the time. Wondering how the diagnosis decides the air-mix is functional? Thinking out loud, does it compare temps in and out? I am wondering if there is an abnormal temp difference over the coil with low refrigerant that might make one side not cool well and it detects it as air-mix failure.
Anyway, my TL is cooling well again! Thanks for all the tips!
The following users liked this post:
Slpr04UA6 (10-30-2018)
#14
Senior Moderator
#15
Do you have a list of service codes for the hvac unit. I did the test and I have driver side _ and passenger side top - and bottom
Any help greatly appreciated
My a/c doesn't work now - doesn't cool but air still blows but my heat does if I go all the way to high and let it heat and bring it down to whatever temp I want. I don't care about the heater part of it...but I need a/c!
Any help greatly appreciated
My a/c doesn't work now - doesn't cool but air still blows but my heat does if I go all the way to high and let it heat and bring it down to whatever temp I want. I don't care about the heater part of it...but I need a/c!
Last edited by luniz97; 11-04-2016 at 10:19 AM. Reason: add picture
#16
Tycoon
![Exclamation](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/icons/icon4.gif)
Hey thoiboi..
This is a pretty old post now, but I ran into an issue on mines.. I did a self diagnostic on mines and here's what came up... Any help would be greatly appreciated..
The issue I'm having is my passenger side is blowing cold while my driver side is blowing hot and this is with the "DUAL" button not engaged. If I'm understanding the above chart, my issue comes up as the "L", "An open in the passengers air mix control motor circuit"
Like I said any help would be appreciated..
![](https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazine.com-vbulletin/640x480/zucd1yol_e9964cdd7736aaa0081b4502c085a943889dcd7a.jpg)
I also ran a sensor display mode and this came up:
The first pic according the manual is degree in Celsius.. My 2nd pic is the Sensor that it's indicating is faulty?? Any help would be appreciated..
![](https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazine.com-vbulletin/640x480/bhrlm2ol_547abef0e5c6fbcd34bf0c05d53bf9edc8e258f8.jpg)
![](https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazine.com-vbulletin/640x480/lszsvgbl_05398aafabd30b810fcdc87c90342de95d6649f4.jpg)
![](https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazine.com-vbulletin/1004x566/gzhluog_0fa3f1682ad5cf8616e2a0af841b836607383e5a.png)
#17
Cruisin'
Thanks everyone for the advice. It was nice to go into my trusted place with good questions. And no, I don't have any intent of adding a can of something from autozone.
Here's the shop update for those keeping score.
The shop checked the pressures and they were low. They then evacuated the system (5oz refrigerant removed) and found no clear problems. Refilled system with proper amount of refrigerant (19oz is what they told me) including dye for leak detection. They identified a small leak on the high side schrader valve and no other indications of leaks. Replaced schrader valve.
So system was clearly low... and it has slowly been getting worse over years so it may just be the valve. Fingers crossed!
And it passes the self diagnosis now all the time. Wondering how the diagnosis decides the air-mix is functional? Thinking out loud, does it compare temps in and out? I am wondering if there is an abnormal temp difference over the coil with low refrigerant that might make one side not cool well and it detects it as air-mix failure.
Anyway, my TL is cooling well again! Thanks for all the tips!
Here's the shop update for those keeping score.
The shop checked the pressures and they were low. They then evacuated the system (5oz refrigerant removed) and found no clear problems. Refilled system with proper amount of refrigerant (19oz is what they told me) including dye for leak detection. They identified a small leak on the high side schrader valve and no other indications of leaks. Replaced schrader valve.
So system was clearly low... and it has slowly been getting worse over years so it may just be the valve. Fingers crossed!
And it passes the self diagnosis now all the time. Wondering how the diagnosis decides the air-mix is functional? Thinking out loud, does it compare temps in and out? I am wondering if there is an abnormal temp difference over the coil with low refrigerant that might make one side not cool well and it detects it as air-mix failure.
Anyway, my TL is cooling well again! Thanks for all the tips!
Charged mine this summer with just new valves, working fine after all these years! Wow!
The following users liked this post:
Slpr04UA6 (10-30-2018)
#18
-------Tim-------
^Ditto! Had a leak on high side schrader valve. Replaced valve, evacuated system, then recharged. Been almost a month, and still blowing cold as new. Can’t imagine what I would’ve spent at a dealer, thank goodness for trouble shooting prior. ![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
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