hey folks, I've searched but can't find help for my particular problem although I've seen similar issues. When driving the VSA light and exclamation point triangle will come on randomly, often accompanied by the a/c compressor turning off, loss of cruise lock, tach or speedo blips, etc. It's not always the same but the common issue is always VSA. I have to restart the car to reset it. Pushing the VSA button does nothing.

Lot of folks said the yaw modules go bad, so I disconnected the yaw module under the center console and the issue goes away, although the VSA and exclamation light stay on permanently. I bought a used yaw module guaranteed tested etc from ebay for $40, and I get the exact same issue as when my old module was installed, so I'm thinking that's not it, although it certainly could be. Anyway new module is about $900 so not an option to "try".

Below are the codes I pulled:
P0430 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
U0155 - Lost Communication with Instrument Panel Control (IPC) Module
U0073 - Control Module Communication Bus A Off
U0122 - Lost Communication With Vehicle Dynamics Control (VDC) Module
61-1 - Battery voltage malfunction
68-1 - Brake switch malfunction
83-1 - ECM PCM malfunction
86-1 - Can Related failure

The battery has ~13.5v and I can find no other issues. The car is an 04 so not worth spending several hundred $ on but I would like it fixed. I've considered taking it to the dealer but I've seen lots of posts where people had similar problems and wound up paying lots or even having the problem return. Any helpful input is appreciated. thanks!!

 

Get a new battery, if that doesn't work get a new alternator.

Sounds like an issue with the voltage regulator in the alternator but i'm thinking a new battery (especially if it's older) can fix that.

 

hey, thanks for your input. Why you think it's the battery or alternator? A battery is about $150 and an alternator is $200 so want to be reasonably sure. Just checked and the voltage was 12.3 after sitting overnight, and is 14.1 idling.

Batteries have gone bad before and eventually the car just wouldnt start, but I didnt get these random issues. Also, why would removing the yaw sensor mask the problem if it's voltage related? Appreciate any insight. thanks!

 

61-1, 83-1 and 86-1 from past experiences have manifested themselves from problems stemming from the battery or alternator. I've seen them personally and from people across this board as well, hence why I recommend replacing the battery. You can get a Interstate battery from Costco for ~100 and a DENSO Alternator from Amazon.com or Rockauto.com for 110 after core: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...429130&jsn=857


I'd prefer to pay the two and fix them over taking it to the dealer for $150-$180 for "diagnostics" . I can't speak to the yaw sensor piece as I haven't heard of issues relating to that as often.


VSA light might be related to this:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...h-help-935803/

 

hey, thanks. I read this thread but it's all over the place so not sure where to go now

 

Start with the battery.

Then the alternator


Then go from there

 

hey folks, been a long time. I didnt believe Betty White about the battery but eventually my battery died and when i replaced it the problem was gone. Of course it came back after a few months, so I replaced the alternator. Problem still there.

Seems worse when it's wet and/or cold. I will try disconnecting the HFL. Any other suggestions? thanks!

 

disconnecting the HFL did nothing to improve the issue. Need a new computer?

 

gotta troubleshoot, if you dont troubleshoot, you'll spend lots of money throwing parts at it

 

yeah, i think you're right. But can the Acura dealer actually troubleshoot it, like with a CAN bus analyzer? thanks!

 

check the fusebox for dampness or wetness. Also make sure a/c isn't backing up on the ecm/pcm

 

totally forgot about the condensation dripping on the ecu.

it could very well be the ECU/PCM. if you're handy enough to look at it, if indeed wet, you'll see corrosion

 

got it, I'm on it. thanks!

 

no wetness or corrosion on the ECU. I ran the car with AC on in high TX humidity this morning, and stuck my hand in there best I could. The lid is dry and smooth, and the ducts are clean.

If I change the ECU it will need to be reprogrammed for my car, right? Anybody know a shop in the Austin area they would recommend? thanks!!

 

If it was fixed and then 'stopped working again" it is likely a parasitic draw issue. Start troubleshooting the the different circuits to see if if there is something killing the battery and throwing the codes. the 61-1 is the biggest one that calls out to me. Additionally, you can try throwing the battery on a tender overnight and seeing if the issues show up again in the morning.

 

you acrtually need to pull the ecu to LOOK at it.

I have an extra ECU from an 2006 6MT TL.

you will need a dealer, or at the very least a scan tool that can reprogram the keys and the immobilizer

 

Wasn't there a method that required turning the ignition on/off a few time to program a new key fob?

 

hey guys, i pulled the ECU out completely, no indication of any moisture ever. Outside is shiny, everything inside looks fine. HFL is out. Parasitic draw is like 18mA. Probably seems to happen less often but still there.

Funny thing to me is, if it's voltage related it should be worse when I first start the car after sitting a few days. This was the case yesterday. I ran some errands and the compressor cut off as I'm driving home, at what should have been the point of maximum charge. I hate intermittent bullshit.

So, gonna take it to a shop. Dealer? Other? I'm in Austin, TX if any locals have a suggestion. thanks!

 

I’ve been dealing with this the past couple of weeks.

I kept getting the same symptoms as OP.

Rpms & Speedo drop randomly while changing gears or braking.

I’ll also add my car was driving fine the entire time it was giving this code, no limp mode etc.


Today I found an article about resetting the ecu using the gas pedal method, which also adapts to your driving style.

*Turn key to ignition*
*Hold gas pedal for 5 seconds*
*Turn key to off*
*Remove foot from gas pedal*
*Leave car for a few minutes to reset before you start it*


It makes perfect sense since the previous owner was a woman with kids I’m sure she drives nothing like me.

the first time it ever happened was on a highway pull

So I guess I was pushing the car and the ecm couldn’t keep up at times and gave out.


I did this today and just drove 20 miles without the gauges giving out at any time.

I didn’t clear the codes because I want to see if they’ll go away on its own.

if symptoms come back I’ll update my post.

 

FINALLY got to the bottom of this.

inside the driver side fuse panel are 2 relays for the ecu/pcm.

they aren’t visible by removing the cover of the fuse panel, they’re above it so you have to remove the entire trim around the fuse panel( which is why I never saw them.)

bought 2 relays ($56 ea) from auto zone and popped them in, the check engine light went away right when I started the car and it was operating normally.

The first few weeks the code came back intermittently but showed no symptoms (gauge cluster & ac never stopped working like they did previously)

I don’t have the part number but they are two big brown relays that you can’t miss when you remove that entire panel from the footwell.

good luck everyone!

I thought i was never gonna solve it.