I was putting front brakes on my tl with the brembo aluminum calipers. While going back together, i realised corrosion had destroyed the threads that hold the caliper to the knucle. I called acura and the cheapest i can get a caliper is $430. I want to fix the one i have. Is a heli coil the best way to go or is there something better to use in aluminum? I think the size i need is 14×1.5 but i want to be sure before i order something online.

Any input appreciated! Thanks.

 

Unfortunately, it's not a rare occurrence. There are lots of threads on this issue. Time sert is probably preferred in this application:

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p.../#post15923116

https://www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-Met...iglink20955-20

 

Anti-seize will help against the corrosion. The corrosion is actually an adverse reaction between the two different materials of steel and aluminum, know as Valcanic corrosion. The combination of steel, aluminum, and moisture will speed up Valcanic corrosion. The anti-seize will work as a barrier between the two different materials to minimize Valcanic corrosion.

If the holes are large enough you might consider drilling and retapping the threads to the next larger bolt size. If you do be sure to use the same bolt Grade rating or higher. Don't rule out American threads as the next larger bolt size.

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Galvanic * corrosion

 

Thank you that's what I meant.

 

I wouldn't use a/s. It totally changes the torque spec for the bolt....

 

I agree. The factory torque is already 125 foot-pounds, I can't imagine torquing that much with A/S However, I remember seeing a post on here where someone torqued the caliper bolts(dry, no A/S) to something a little less than 125 ft/lbs for fear of stripping the threads and he found that they started to get loose after some time, so I would recommend sticking to the factory spec for safety's sake.

 

Yeah that's a tough call because at $450 a caliper and I'm pulling the aluminum off of the caliper when servicing my brakes? I sure would not just keep doing the same thing. But that's just me.

A/S is certainly not for everyone but I would experiment on my own car and maybe take 10-20% off of the torque specs and see how tight that is in relation to a dry torqued bolt by marking the bolt to the caliper for reference. And if it's at or a little beyond AND it took just as much effort to torque the bolts then I would call it good. However, I would be monitoring those bolts very closely for any signs of loosening. Say everything 5k at tire rotation.

Honestly, if you're not comfortable with using A/S on the bolts then don't do it. For example, I wouldn't be comfortable with installing a tread cert but that's just me. I would rather use A/S or buy another caliper than installing thread certs on a brake caliper.

 

Alum Threads < Steel Threads

Put a timesert in it and never have to worry again, you can also you A/S (anti-seize?) in the timesert as well! When I get around to having to do front brakes, I will be putting timeserts in to avoid this issue.

 

Time-Sert or threaded steel sleeves really should be a factory default from Brembo, I don't know why they don't...unless it's for a way to maintain revenue.