simran4h

I have a 07 type s and did my brakes and rotors all around. Didn't run into any problems until taking off the driver side brembo and the lower bolt was stuck. I forced it off and found the very front tip to be cross threaded/looked corroded. So I read this happens a lot and either get them machined or heli coil. But since I didn't have the time I forced the bolt back in and it is sticking out a centimeter or 2. I put everything back and did the bed in process. Should I get this fixed asap or can I drive on it.

nfnsquared

I wouldn't drive it in that condition.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

even I, master of all fuckups... justonjacks, would not drive on that

BreezyTL

iTrader: (8)

Its the one thing I would not say good enough. Get it fixed the right way!

simran4h

Which way would you guys recommend I should get it fixed? Can a regular shop rethread it?

thoiboi

They'd probably be the best person to answer said question

TacoBello

I'd be pretty nervous driving that car anywhere, too.

Adobeman

You're going either get it towed or take the caliper(s) off and bring it to a place that can install the insert. Depending on where you may need to supply the insert. You will also likely need to get new bolts. I've already got a guy lined up around where I live to do the inserts if I need to when I do my fronts. It seems, based on my way too long time hanging around here, that you can almost assume at least one bolt will be bad out of the four you need to remove. Too bad you hadn't read the other threads before you started.

srg818

I would get if fixed as soon as possible. Questionable brakes are a big liability, absolutely no reason to risk life and property over a brake job

I had this problem and ended up using the TIME-SERT M14 X 1.50 Metric Thread Repair Kit #1415 to permanently repair it. I say permanently because the Time-Sert kit installs threaded steel sleeves(unlike the aluminum threads in caliper) and this solves the corrosion problem between the steel caliper bolt and aluminum caliper threads. I often see many blame some idiot mechanic or previous owner of cross-threading the bolt but it's simply galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals(steel&aluminum+heat+time=fawked).

Not sure where you're located but if you lived near me I wouldn't mind doing the repair for you since my Time-Sert kit had extra threaded sleeves remaining after I re-threaded my calipers.

simran4h

Thank you guys for your input, im going to take it to a local mechanic here...hes pretty good with honda/acura's. Let you know what happens

simran4h

I just pm'd you. Thanks

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

If you're only short a mm or 2...I'd back it back out and put some washers on to ensure it stays tight and in place.
I mean, in theory, be safe and don't drive on it but...you know, physics and logic too

srg818

I responded to a pm from another member asking about the Time-Sert installation and I figured it may help someone else googling Time-Sert repair:




I did the install myself in my driveway and did the caliper re-threading in my basement/work bench using a handheld corded drill with the help of a bench vise to keep everything secure. I had already purchased the Time-Sert kit ahead of the brake job because I figured at least 1 bolt would most likely be fubar'd(I had 2 bolts, 1 per side that came out bad). I also bought 4 new OEM caliper bolts online for under $2 each. If I had to make a list I think this is what I used for the whole job:

-Sturdy bench vise with good lighting
-Drill press or handheld drill
-Steel drill bit set w/multiple sizes
-Time-Sert kit #1415 (M14 X 1.50)
-(4) new caliper bolts (Acura Part # 90107-SEP-A50)
-Thread cutting oil or clean motor oil
-Brake cleaner(to remove cutting/motor oil from threads before installing threaded sleeves)
-Tap handle(I used the handle from a 45-piece tap and die set I bought from Harbor Freight, can also be purchased separately at Home Depot)
-Compressed air source(to blow out metal shavings after drilling/thread cutting process)
-Loctite Red high strength threadlocker

I started by removing the front calipers off the car and taping off the brake line holes so no fluid would be leaking out and no debris could get into the internals of the caliper. Then I took a clean shop towel and wrapped it around the caliper(to protect the paint) before securing it in the bench vise. I tightened it down with the bolt holes oriented vertically and tight enough to where I couldn't get it to budge.

The Time-Sert kit includes 1 large drill bit(size .578" or 37/64) but using that included drill bit right off the bat into the factory bolt hole was way too tight a tolerance to drill effectively. When I tried using the included drill bit on my first bolt hole attempt the cutting edge of the bit would violently snag and stop on the outer rim whenever I gave the drill even the slightest power. I had to resort to stepping down to smaller size drill bits and drilling pilot holes and moving up in stages until the drill bit included in the kit would drill evenly and without snagging up. I think I used 3/8"-7/16"-1/2" in that order but my memory may be off so use whatever size is appropriate at each stage.

In my opinion the hardest part about this job was getting the holes centered when drilling them. If you can get past that the rest of the job is easy. Take your time drilling out each hole and check then double-check they are centered every time you drill a little more. Once your holes are drilled with the kit's drill bit the next step is to use the counter-bore bit to drill a recess or indent in the rim of the hole so the threaded sleeve insert will sit flush with the surface of the bolt hole after installation. Keep drilling with the counter-bore bit until it hits the depth control stop, then remove it(you'll feel the drill bit continue to spin but not be able to move any further down at that point).

Next use the included thread tapping bit to tap new threads into the freshly drilled hole. As when drilling the hole, make sure the tapping bit is centered and start slow for the first few revolutions to make sure it stays centered. The bit will follow the contour of the hole through the path of least resistance but be sure to look at the bit from different angles while tapping to confirm it's still going in center; if not back it out and re-center before continuing. Use oil generously on this step and for every 1-2 revolutions of the tapping bit, turn it back counter-clockwise to let some of the aluminum shavings fall off before tapping further. Once your hole is tapped with the new threads, use brake cleaner to clean off the cutting oil in the bolt hole and then use compressed air to blow out anything else that may remain.

Next, take the driver installation tool in the kit and coat it with a couple drops of oil. Then, take a threaded steel sleeve insert included in the kit and hand tighten the driver tool into the sleeve a few revolutions. Take your Loctite red high-strength threadlocker and put 1-2 drops on the outer threads of the sleeve(note:the outside of the sleeve should have the Loctite - only the inside of the sleeve will have oil, to prevent the driver tool from binding to the sleeve's inner threads during installation). Using the driver tool, thread the sleeve into the bolt hole(by hand initially) while making sure it goes in smoothly and without cross-threading. Keep tightening until you feel the driver tool go all the way through until suddenly there is no more resistance(this is normal). Remove the driver tool and let the threadlocker cure.

All done. Now put the calipers back on, attach brake lines, insert brake pads and bleed the brake lines. The torque rating for the caliper bolts is 125 foot-pounds, which I thought had to be a typo for such a high amount since aluminum is a soft metal to be hulking into but after checking Helms factory manual it is the correct amount. I'm not a Honda engineer but I have a hunch that such a high torque rating with grade 10 steel and aluminum mating surfaces plus heat cycling is a factor in all these reports of steel bolts ripping out the threads in these calipers. Once you're done putting these threaded steel inserts every brake job for the life of the car will be worry-free and you can rest easy the next time you go to loosen that caliper bolt.

Sorry for the novel, here's a video that puts everything I wrote into a visual(1:05+): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anjDQJtWFc8&t=65