Hello all, new here, this is my first post.

as the title states: no power at the pump.
Originally: car didn’t start, checked fuse, good.
assumed it was the fuel pump and replaced that. Then checked the relay, replaced it with a Denso unit because it hadn’t had an apparent recall (Denso) replacement installed.

I was hoping that relay and everything described above was the issue but none of it was. I don’t know what to do from here. I’m thinking that it’s the ecm next, and I don’t know how much of a pain that’ll be.

Does anyone know about anything else to check on before… I… wire the pump to a switch?

 

Things to check:

1. Does the green security key light turn off after a couple of seconds (maybe 30 seconds)?
   1. A flashing green light means the immobilizer does not recognize the key. The immobilizer disables the fuel pump
2. Check fuse #19 has power
3. Any DTCs?
4. Troubleshoot where the power circuit is open. The two relays in the wiring diagram work together and they're both control by the ECM.
   1. If the ECM is not providing the switching voltages to the relays, you will need to confirm the ECM has all its powers and grounds before replacing it.
   2. A replacement ECM will need to have the VIN re-written and have the immobilizer re-initialized to match.

 

1.) Immobilizer light flashes and turns off within a few seconds

2.) Fuel pump fuse has power (and continuity through itself)

3.) No DTC’s. Battery was dead, charged up fine trying to trace problem (disconnected the Bluetooth module above rear view mirror on a hunch)

4.) Fuel Pump relay just replaced with new Denso recall-replacement unit.

Not sure which other relay I’m supposed to be looking at (no service manual or chart to use for reference).

I’ll go as far as that before I start to look at the ECM for problems, worst case… I’ll toggle-switch power to the relay.

 

Take the PGM-FI relay 2 out and probe the fusebox with small test light/voltmeter.

Pin 1 should have power in "key on".
Pin 3 should have ground when key on or when cranking.
Pin 4 should have power when key on or when cranking.

Preferably use some small test light that would put about the same load as the relay.
If you don't know which pin is which then look at the relay - it at least should be labeled which pins are coil and which pins are switched.

If all those pass, then you could probe pin 2 for "decent" ground (small test light should be able to turn on before the fuel pump starts working). Or supply some fused power to pin 2 - but if going this way be 100% sure that you are probing pin 2 and not something else (like the ECM control signal from pin 3). If pin 2 is a problem, then look for broken wires or just run new wire to the fuel pump.

 

***Not sure which other relay I’m supposed to be looking at (I’ve not found anything to use for referencing the location of the PGM-FI relay 2).***

 

It's the fuel pump relay. It's just labeled as "PGM-FI relay 2" on all Acura diagrams.

 

ah, okay. With the first and this second diagram, I see where BOTH relays are that I need/want to check (pgm-fi relays 1&2).

I’ll double check the relays but not sure if the pins are labeled like the euro-spec ones

worst case: I can verify voltage and post my findings in a reversed format.

I did just replace the pump relay with the recall-replacement Denso one. So I think it’s safe to say that the relay isn’t receiving a power/signal to close the fuel pump circuit.

 

I’m hoping I did this right. Seems like the ecu is bad so I’ll have to wire in a switch for power. I have 12v at key on/crank at the slots highlighted in yellow and red. Blue is a ground (found out by probing it with 12v+) and it tripping the other relay. I am not getting the signal voltage from ecu (slot that is not highlighted.) making me think that the fuel pump signal from ecu is bricked

 

https://omronfs.omron.com/en_US/ecb/...df/en-g8hl.pdf

So your red and unmarked should be terminals for the coil.
Your yellow/blue should be terminals that are switched.

Blue should go to the fuel pump. It shouldn't trip any other relays when probed.

 

I supplied it with 12V if you didn’t catch that, but if you did, hmmm 🤔