Hey everyone
so I have this overheating issues and can’t figure it out hoping I could get a little help. I have changed the thermostat, engine coolant sensor, radiator cap and still overheating after the car has been running a while (30 minutes). My driver side fan is not working but I applied a power source to connector and it began to turn but seems to never come on… I checked the 3 relays and a all good. Nothing leaking out of radiator… I’m lost at this time… what could it be?

 

Need to figure out why fan is not running. How you know relays are good? Fuses? Both fans always work together. Car will never use only one. They have two speeds.

Are both radiator hoses hot when engine has normal operating temp?

 

What’s weird is that the fans both work when the car is in the on position (not turned on/running) when I start the car it comes on and then turns off shortly. I tested the relays with multimeter and battery pack. Both hoses are hot… gonna try and replace the thermostat again since it’s under warranty still and see if possibly I got a bad one.

 

If A/C is on, both fans will run on low speed with key on engine off. When engine on, they will cycle on/off together with A/C compressor. If you turn off climate control, or manually turn off A/C, fans shouldn't run unless required to cool off the engine.

You sure it's overheating? Is there bunch of junk stuck to the front of condenser / radiator?

 

The temp needle was rising and the car seemed hot. I don’t know if the fans are running if the AC is off while driving but I don’t know. I turned the heater on and the temp needle seemed to drop.. but here in Texas can’t be doing that lol. I’ll have to look at the front of radiator today and maybe hose it off

 

How high did the gauge went? Need some other way to measure it than going by the feel or looking at the gauge.

Fans kick in when coolant temp is >206F or >97C.

Maybe the car isn't really overheating?

 

It just sent the P0128 engine light also…

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=p012...client=gws-wiz


sounds like it was a bad coolant temp sensor.. did you buy an aftermarket one or OEM?

 

P0128 usually sets when thermostat is stuck open, or opens too soon. When engine temp is too low, or it takes too long for it to warm up. Low coolant or disconnecting that sensor with key on might set the code as well.

Like thoiboi wrote, get OEM sensor if you want to trust it. Would be nice to have a scan tool that can view live data and see what temp car sees.

 

Does the car overheat while at idle or low speed or high speed? Or all of the above?

 

I’ve seen the temp gauge rise on all of the above. I’ve never let it hit the H and always pull over and wait a minute so no fluid was spraying all over. When I pop the hood it does feel hot as hell. Idk… maybe I just got a bad thermostat and need to replace it again and see what happens

 

Since this post, I have replaced the thermostat that appeared to be stuck open and car hasnt overheated BUT my engine light is still on and when I take it to AutoZone to read the codes, it still shows the P0128... Im lost. The only other recomendation was to change the radiator but it hasnt overheated so I dont think its that.... Any thoughts anyone??

 

Did you clear the code and it comes back or do you keep driving with check engine on hoping it will turn off by itself?

 

Was hoping and thought it would clear after some miles driven…

 

I just stopped by AutoZone and they erased the code hopefully it’s all good and doesn’t come back on!

 

Do you loose coolant fluid? Is fluid spraying all over?

 

Has anyone ever had any issues with aftermarket thermostats???

 

Who did not? As long as you get gates or aisin you should be fine. If you got cheapes one from ebay then it's your own fault.

P0128 can be set due to one of two ETC sensors not working (one is in radiator, other on thermostat housing) or if something's wrong with the cooling fan circuit.
It would be really nice to have a scan tool that can view live data (to see what are sensors reading) and actuate fans (to make sure both low and high speed work fine).

 

It was a Failsafe thermostat from AutoZone which was the expensive one.
Might be a dumb question but was is a ETC Sensor?

 

Oh those are nice. They love to get stuck open for no good reason. But hey lifetime warranty so you can just keep changing them and maybe you find one that's put together right.

I meant ECT (Engine Coolant Temp Sensor), my bad.

 

Ah ok yeah I had to return one not long ago actually it was stuck open. I also replaced the coolant sensor…. I’m starting to wonder how picky is Acura/Honda on their parts.

 

I replaced the thermostat with a $5 motorad from rock auto last year and have no issues to date. Though when I initially installed it, I replaced the gasket with a motorad one that leaked. So I replaced the thermostat gasket with an oem one. No more leaks, but I lost coolant in the process. So I added coolant, but the car started to overheat. I burped the system of air and car stopped overheating

 

im having the same issue.

So I’m having a problem with my driver side fan, I’ve replaced thermostat and both the radiator and a/c fan and I just got no clue what can be causing my car to reach H I just got my car tinted called the place and said that the battery died and this is when It started to happen again I had it fixed for a while when I removed both the a/c fan relay and radiator fan relay and the both fans were working completly fan now only one spins and the other will turn on with the car then die out within seconds, I’ve tried to put relays back in and still doesn’t work.. I’m lost here now I’m the 3rd owner of the car and previous owners seemed to cut corners and Jimmy rig stuff and I’m jsut working with what I got any ideas of how to fix it or were to start at least?
QuoteI’m fairly new to all the car stuff also and I’m just 16 trying to figure things out please any help would be appreciated.

 

I’ve replaced my thermostat with an OEM and it fixed my problem. I’ll never buy engine components that are not OEM.

 

Not picky at all. They didn’t seems to mind selling green/green crankshaft bearing with deep scratches in Each one all over the country.