06 ASM 5AT Navi One Month problem list
06 ASM 5AT Navi One Month problem list
Fix List:
1. alignment: steering wheel off center to the left
2. metallic rattling noise on bumps and acceleration around 2000 rpm from under front passenger floor area
3. rattling noise upon initial acceleration/braking from shifter area. Sounds like maracas
4. driver door panel rattles/buzzes at highway speeds
have not been to the dealer yet, but plan to go soon. any advice on these issues?
1. alignment: steering wheel off center to the left
2. metallic rattling noise on bumps and acceleration around 2000 rpm from under front passenger floor area
3. rattling noise upon initial acceleration/braking from shifter area. Sounds like maracas
4. driver door panel rattles/buzzes at highway speeds
have not been to the dealer yet, but plan to go soon. any advice on these issues?
Originally Posted by athlon03
Fix List:
1. alignment: steering wheel off center to the left
2. metallic rattling noise on bumps and acceleration around 2000 rpm from under front passenger floor area
3. rattling noise upon initial acceleration/braking from shifter area. Sounds like maracas
4. driver door panel rattles/buzzes at highway speeds
have not been to the dealer yet, but plan to go soon. any advice on these issues?
1. alignment: steering wheel off center to the left
2. metallic rattling noise on bumps and acceleration around 2000 rpm from under front passenger floor area
3. rattling noise upon initial acceleration/braking from shifter area. Sounds like maracas
4. driver door panel rattles/buzzes at highway speeds
have not been to the dealer yet, but plan to go soon. any advice on these issues?
I just bought my new TL this past week. Everything has been fine on mine except for the alignment. Instead, my steering wheel in the "neutral" position is turned to the right. I would say it's about the 12:30 to 1 o'clock position. For the most part, it does go straight with a slight drift to the right. When I break without holding the steer wheel... the car really goes to the right. The harder the breaking, the more noticeable it is.
The good news is... I called my dealership and they do not have any problems with me taking it back in to check and fix the alignment problem.
I wonder if this is common or anything to worry about. I'm sure not all of them come perfect. Sometimes one slips through and all that is required is just an adjustment, not that it is damaged or anything is "broken" per se.
Good luck with your new TL.
Seems like a lot of people have experienced the alignment issue, myself included. It took two trips to the dealer to finally get it fixed but now it's straight and tracks dead on. I haven't had any rattling issues though besides the subwoofer when the volume is cranked up.
Originally Posted by athlon03
Fix List:
2. metallic rattling noise on bumps and acceleration around 2000 rpm from under front passenger floor area
issues?
2. metallic rattling noise on bumps and acceleration around 2000 rpm from under front passenger floor area
issues?
Hope that helps.
Originally Posted by SSM06TLwTreo650
Hi Athlon,
I just bought my new TL this past week. Everything has been fine on mine except for the alignment. Instead, my steering wheel in the "neutral" position is turned to the right. I would say it's about the 12:30 to 1 o'clock position. For the most part, it does go straight with a slight drift to the right. When I break without holding the steer wheel... the car really goes to the right. The harder the breaking, the more noticeable it is.
I just bought my new TL this past week. Everything has been fine on mine except for the alignment. Instead, my steering wheel in the "neutral" position is turned to the right. I would say it's about the 12:30 to 1 o'clock position. For the most part, it does go straight with a slight drift to the right. When I break without holding the steer wheel... the car really goes to the right. The harder the breaking, the more noticeable it is.
i gotta give the dealership a call.
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Check your car in a flat parking lot. Then check air pressure in the tires.
Most complaints from poeple about any car, is a slight drift to the right (or, in England- to the left).
Streets and highways are not flat. They are crowned so that water will flow towards the edge and does not pool.
That means that the natural path of the car would be slightly downhill and it takes a slight pressure to the left to go straight. By slight, I would say no more than an inch or two at the outer circumference of the wheel.
But it never hurts to have the dealer check it.
There are heat shields under cars and they are notorious for sometimes buzzing. That is also easily fixed.
I had a buzz in my driver's door that turned out to be DVD-A cases I had put in there.
Most complaints from poeple about any car, is a slight drift to the right (or, in England- to the left).
Streets and highways are not flat. They are crowned so that water will flow towards the edge and does not pool.
That means that the natural path of the car would be slightly downhill and it takes a slight pressure to the left to go straight. By slight, I would say no more than an inch or two at the outer circumference of the wheel.
But it never hurts to have the dealer check it.
There are heat shields under cars and they are notorious for sometimes buzzing. That is also easily fixed.
I had a buzz in my driver's door that turned out to be DVD-A cases I had put in there.
Regarding the alignment: There are a few really long and flat streets close to where I live. The streets run both east-west and north-south. I made sure that I checked the steering by going both directions. Xpditor is right, you should always check by driving on a flat surface because of the way the road crowns and take that into consideration.
What is most evident is the braking test. If your alignment is true (straight), you should be able to apply the brakes at different levels of pressure (low to moderate to high) and slow to a stop in a relatively straight line. It becomes most obvious when the car drifts to one side of the other, that you know that there could be something wrong with the alignment. Of course, this works if your brake pads aren't messed up either LOL. But I'm sure you get the idea.
Oh well, I'm scheduled to be in the shop this weekend to have my alignment checked
I can't wait until this is finished and I can finally drive the car.
Good luck to everyone that is taking their cars in for alignment issues. Please post with your results!
What is most evident is the braking test. If your alignment is true (straight), you should be able to apply the brakes at different levels of pressure (low to moderate to high) and slow to a stop in a relatively straight line. It becomes most obvious when the car drifts to one side of the other, that you know that there could be something wrong with the alignment. Of course, this works if your brake pads aren't messed up either LOL. But I'm sure you get the idea.
Oh well, I'm scheduled to be in the shop this weekend to have my alignment checked
I can't wait until this is finished and I can finally drive the car.Good luck to everyone that is taking their cars in for alignment issues. Please post with your results!
Originally Posted by SSM06TLwTreo650
Regarding the alignment: There are a few really long and flat streets close to where I live. The streets run both east-west and north-south. I made sure that I checked the steering by going both directions. Xpditor is right, you should always check by driving on a flat surface because of the way the road crowns and take that into consideration.
What is most evident is the braking test. If your alignment is true (straight), you should be able to apply the brakes at different levels of pressure (low to moderate to high) and slow to a stop in a relatively straight line. It becomes most obvious when the car drifts to one side of the other, that you know that there could be something wrong with the alignment. Of course, this works if your brake pads aren't messed up either LOL. But I'm sure you get the idea.
What is most evident is the braking test. If your alignment is true (straight), you should be able to apply the brakes at different levels of pressure (low to moderate to high) and slow to a stop in a relatively straight line. It becomes most obvious when the car drifts to one side of the other, that you know that there could be something wrong with the alignment. Of course, this works if your brake pads aren't messed up either LOL. But I'm sure you get the idea.
Also the stopping test (as you somewhat mentioned) is also very sensitive to the condition of your brake pads and rotors and other factors in you brake system.
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