Hi All,

My plan as of right now, once the weather is permitting, is to:

1. Tape off the surrounding area
2. Grind/Sand down to bare metal (looks to be surface rust)
3. Use some anti-rust spray to prep the metal
4. Use Por-15 on the metal and behind/around the inside of the wheel wells
5. Apply primer...multiple layers
6. Apply layers of Acura paint and Acura top coat...
7. Buff the area


I know it won't look great but it will be better than what it is now. Any other suggestions? Should I remove the skirt (is that what's called?) and if so..how should I do it? I plan on keeping this vehicle for a while - so I know that I may have to have that quarter panel replaced eventually if the rust returns.

Thank you for your help!


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When it's bubbled like that it might be more than surface and it may come back.

 

I have the same problem, except it's gotten worse over the 3 winters.

Act quick!

 

You can grind down to see if clean metal is underneath, but if rust has penetrated through the metal, best to cut out, weld, prep, paint and you'll be good to go.

 

Its probably going to be worse than it looks, like jesstzn said. Generally that sort of thing happens to an area thats already been repaired. First things first i guess... Has it had any repair work done to the quarter since you've owned it? If so, the body shop will most likely warranty it. Also, is it both sides, or just the left?

If not... I would say, save money and have a shop repair it so you know you wont have any more problems. Doing a small repair and not refinishing the whole panel usually causes more issues down the road. Unless you have the clear 'burned' in or refinish the whole quarter, its probably going to start to peel after a little while.

It takes a lot of work to repair a painted panel properly, so itd take a lot more explaining to give you the whole picture.

Too bad you dont live in AR, we could get it taken care of man!

That panel is called a rocker molding btw.

 

I'll do my best to give any advise i can if you decide to repair it yourself.

Coming from a Collision repair technician/Collision repair estimator. About 10 years experience in the body shop industry. (Not trying to be a cocky douche, just dont want you to think im trying to BS you.)

Best of luck man!

 

By I, I mean everyone on here. This has been a very helpful website for me.

Just thought id clarify!

 

Hey Thanks ! I'll probably do the "cheap" route first (you guys are probably right that the rust is no long surface... which sucks) and then go about having a body shop replace the quarter panel or have them weld a new piece in place of the rusted out portion (I have no clue how to do it myself). Unfortunately, I think the rust originated from the previous owner...I remember seeing slightly "off" white paint in that region but didn't think much of it at the time of purchasing from the dealer (lesson learned the hard way :|).

 

I suspect that the bubbles indicate a perforation, i.e., a through hole cause by rust. If you do not wish to have a body shop do the work, about the best you can do yourself is:

1) remove the plastic wheel-well liner, so that you can get to the back side of that panel. If the panel is *hollow* you may be sort of *screwed*. I have performed the additional steps below by drilling a hole, and applying inside the *hollows*, but it is tedious, and not always effective. Close the holes with plastic hole plugs, that is how *real* rust-proofing is done. Try a body shop for plugs, or look on your car for any existing plastic/ rubber plugs, and buy more.

2) remove loose rust

3) spray with and allow to dry a few days: 3M rust-proofing 08892 18oz aerosol

4) spray with 3M undercoat 08883 19oz aerosol

Apply the rust-proofing to the backside of the panel. If there is a lot of rust, also spray a light oil to the seams: first WD40 followed by something like LPS2 (LPS3 is a bit thick). These will penetrate into the rust and you will not need to grind and remove it to the bare metal, which in your case, I suspect there is not sound metal left in a few places. Allow to dry a few days.

When applying the 3M rust-proofing, it must completely cover any rust. Any rust *sticking* up onto the air, will continue to rust. You may need to apply twice. Allow to dry to the point it is sticky, and not *runny*.

Apply the 3M undercoat in 2 thin, rather than one thick, coats.

Sure, metal replacement is best, but its expensive, and if you do it yourself, quite time consuming. What I have described above, esp. if applied to the back side of wheel well seams, will prevent rust for years, and even allow already rusted areas to last for years more. It just depends upon how *good* you want the repair to *look*.

I have repaired that sort of through-hole damage with *metal* type professional putty from a body/paint supply shop - but a lot of work.

 

Hey, it happens man! No one is perfect!

I agree that undercoating the wheel well is a good idea. But grinding the exterior is a whole different ball game from my point of view. If you decide to grind inside the wheel well, the deep scratches in the metal are hidden easily, but on an exterior painted portion, its a different story. I would attempt to sand off the paint with some 180 grit and see how bad the rust is. That way if its not too bad, you can just hit it with some 320 and prime. On the other hand, if you grind it, you'll have to apply body filler and sand it to fill the grind marks. The main goal is obviously to remove the rust, but id take small steps at first so you can make it easier on yourself in the long run. You can always break out a grinder if need be.

That's my suggestion! Best of luck again!

 

Rocker molding information.

Also, it'll be much easier to get to the clips in the wheel well liner if you jack the car up from the left rear jack plate.

 

Forgot to add attachments!