So now the Malfunction Indicator Lamp is on after my car got stuck in the snow Thrusday night. I turned off the VSA off so I could spin the tires and rocked/reversed out of the hole, then drove up the driveway, wheels spinning to work my way up.

Got in the car the Friday, and the light was on. I've only driven the car a few miles since then because of the weather here, but even on the way into the office this morning the damm thing is still on...

Any ideas what's going on and should I be concerned?

 

sounds like your engine threw a code while your were revving the engine... i've had this TL throw those codes here and there during aggressive acceleration from a stop or on the highway (randomly) and it eventually goes away .. take it to a pepboys and they can pull the engine code for you and tell you what it means...

might be your crankshaft sensor...

if the light isn't blinking, i wouldn't worry about it immediately -- just get the code checked.. don't reset the ecu (i.e. pull the positive battery terminal) until you know what the code represents.

 

I agree, there are a # of reasons why it could be on. Get it checked somewhere local for free and do not delete it until you know what it is. Could be something stupid, could be important.

 

you shouldn't have to worry about it too much. if it doesn't go away soon, then maybe check it out. i had my car on the rack a while back doing a diagnostic. the tech drove my car (had the wheels spinning) on the rack while doing so - figured out that the right wheel was wobbling, that's besides the point. After the car was dropped and driven for a few, ALL the lights came on, including the engine check light, along with the vsa light, etc. we almost reset the car via yanking the negative battery line, but it went away within a few...

 

Thanks to everyone who posted. I've had the light come on before from high rev driving to get out of the snow, but it's never stayed on this long.

 

Check this out......http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/B03-033.PDF

My car is going in for this tomorrow.

 

Took the forums advice and went to AutoZone who pulled the code for me. P301 & P305, I think, which was a misfire in cylinders 1 and 5, plus one random misfire. Took it to my mechanic, since I'm at 90M miles, who is in the midst of "reprogramming the CPU" now.

Change of subject- Since the car was in the shop-

1. Had them inspect the timing belt, checked out, no worries for another 15M miles.

2. Clicking sound coming from CV Joint and upon inspection, the boots were in tact. He recommeded replacing the CV joint and axles, left and right, to the tune of $412. Is this inline with the boards expectations?

3. Needed new brakes and rotors- $350

4. Tune Up- New plus, wires, etc.- $410


Does anything look too high or out of line/unneccessary?

 

#3 & #4 merit more investigation.
3. How worn are the pads, and can the rotors be resurfaced (prior pad replacement or disk machining?)?
The price for replacement of all the pads and rotors seems OK, though, if necessary.
4. What is entailed in the "tune-up?" It sounds very expensive for replacement of the plugs. Is the mechanic talking about replacement of any ignition coil packs due to misfires, adjustment of the valves, etc?

FWIW, the 3G TL replacement of the spark plugs is generally at Maintenance Minder code "4," which is also when the timing belt is to be changed (on non-Maintenance Minder cars, that would be at the 105K mile service).

 

I've previously had the rotors turned, so it was time, even in my estimation. As for the "Tune Up", I'll have to post when I get the bill, with any luck by later this afternoon. Thanks for the reply.

 

2 - Definitely get them replaced & new hardware if they're clicking in operating temps. That's not a bad price for both if that's parts included.

3 - all 4? new rotors ~$200, new pads ~$70.. that's a decent price.

4 - Wow.. new wires, coils and plugs.. seems a bit unnecessary but the coils are expensive.

-sounds like your guy is giving you very fair and honest prices.