They are full of it.

 

The internet is not a reliable source

 

actually it is a real person LOL

 

I'm sure we will be doing a full on group shot for all of us!

 

If I'm not too hungover

 

I would hope not cause it'll be in the afternoon when Steven is off! lol

 

jpipe purchased!

 

 

^^^ This!


Excellent purchase buddy.

 

Now I'm jelly.

 

Mission accomplished.

 

David....post and update you fuck....i just spend 6 hours rolling in brake fluid for what

 

Haha man, I took a shower, ate some McD's, and passed the fuck out on the couch. I'll update later today

 

I see how it is....you gave me some home made nuggets and got them mcd nuggets for yourself....

dude those nuggets were the shiznitz !!! imma buy a bag of those

 

Are they the Dinosaur nuggets??

 

found something for you:



http://www.zeckhausen.com/how_to_pro...all_rotors.htm

 

That would have made them more fun to eat.

Anil, here's what I was looking at:
http://www.zeckhausen.com/how_to_pro...all_rotors.htm

Basically, the way the slots rotate is basically unimportant. Even though the "proper" way may be that the top of the slot should hit the pads first, what really matters is the internal cooling vanes which determines how the heat dissipates through the rotor (directional, curved, or straight). I spoke with Sean and he said that these rotors have straight cooling vanes, so really it doesn't matter which way you put the rotors on.

Later tonight, I'll write up a more detailed post about yesterday and some pics.

 

^^^ umm thats exactly what the links says which i posted

 

Herp derp

Didn't see the link, just the photo

 

Sounds like you guys had a busy day! I thought you were going to come over, David. But Anil says you got air tools!

 

Yeah, sorry about that Steven. My friend has air tools that I didn't know about so we just decided to do it at my place. Now onto the details!

• 2x3 ATF (2 type F, 1 D4 from Redline)
• Replace 3rd and 4th pressure switches
• Replace ATF filter
• Install new drilled/slotted rotors and pads from Brakemotive
• Install new green SS brake lines from Technafit (purchased from XLR8)
• Flushed in some MOTUL 5.1

So I started to get things going while I waited for Anil to get to my place. Did the easy things, like jacked the car up, drained the ATF, took off the wheels, soaked everything in PB Blaster, etc.

First we got into the rotors. Taking off the caliper was easy, probably because I took them off about 4 months ago to paint them, but the mounting bracket (or whatever it's called that holds the caliper to the rotor to the axle) was a bich even with the air tools because of the angle, or not the correct socket size, or whatever. We eventually started to just use a socket wrench with a breaker bar. Man it's insane what leverage can do!

So, we first replaced the rotor, then the pads. The pads didn't like to go in some of the time, so we made sure to grease them up good with some green goop that Anil brought, but we got them to fit. Then we did the new SS brake lines, which I might add that they look awesome (pics below). I think this was the best route to do things (rotor, pads, lines) because since the caliper was secured again, we could position the brake line correctly without having to spin it around or make it fit right. I think we also did it in the correct path of bleeding the brake fluid (LF, RF, RR, LF), which makes sense.

While we were at the LF wheel, we also replaced the 2 pressure switches since they're right there. I went ahead and started to take off the other rotors while Anil was getting those pesky brake lines installed. We eventually got all 4 rotors/pads installed, and at some point, Anil installed the new ATF filter too. You'll have to ask him how that was

Filled the AT back up with 2 quarts of Type F and 1 quart of D4 fluids, and then began the bleeding process to get out the air and dirty fluid. The brakes started to feel new! Though I couldn't quite say yet until I broke them in. We put the wheels back on, lowered the car, and took it for a spin.

First impressions: fkn fantastic! No more "give and go" braking or fading. 60-10 like a boss. Now this is referring to the combo of both the brake kit from Brakemotive (Sean) and the SS brake lines from Technafit. Regardless, it's awesome. So like 10 minutes into braking them in, Anil goes "Oh shit, I never torqued the lugs, just tightened them because the car was still in the air." Needless to say, I stopped braking them in and cruised on home

However, there is a distinct fapping noise when not braking, just coasting, and the noise changes frequency when I turn the wheel one way or the other. I'm just guessing it's the pads getting formed to their new home that is the rotors. I'll make not to revisit this in hopes that it goes away. I would like to note that when we put on the rear rotors (no caliper/bracket/pads) and spun them to test it out, it didn't sound/feel smooth almost as if the parking brake was grabbing something, but without the new rotors on the hub, it went away. Maybe that has something to do with the noise? I don't know. Going to go to Firestone to get an alignment soon, and I might have them check out the new brake job.

We installed the rotors opposite of what they were labeled. To our understanding, the top of the slots on the rotors are supposed to hit the pads first. See the above few comments/diagrams to explain. Really it doesn't matter which way you put them, but what does matter is the cooling vanes (also in the comments/diagrams above). So because we installed them this way, it could also be causing this noise.

I think that covers everything. Took us roughly 6 hours to do it all. So without further adieu, to the pics!








I'd also like to link some threads/guides that I used and to give thanks for those authors
Brakes
http://autodiyonline.com/acura-diys/...ont-brake-diy/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/replacing-brakes-pictures-3g-garage-d-041-a-770166/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/brake-fluid-change-696162/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-tires-wheels-suspension-97/front-rear-brake-disc-rotor-knuckle-hub-front-wheel-brg-repl-3g-garage-d-085-a-592538/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/diy-brake-line-replacement-3g-garage-d-001-a-637299/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/brakes-caliper-o-h-pad-repl-hoses-bleed-disc-specs-park-brake-adj-3g-garage-d-041-a-578017/
Transmission
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/110-diy-guide-replacing-3rd-4th-gear-pressure-switch-3g-tl-2004-2006-a-729149/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/5at-filter-cartridge-731052/

And one big thanks to Anil for being a champ and helping out. Matt missed out on some good chicken nuggets haha

 

The rotors look awesome! When I need to replace my OEM's, I want your input.

 

Damn you guys did some work. Sorry I couldn't have been there, I've been trying to be a good boy and work a little more. I'll make sure to come next time tho. I'm super jelly of all your new mods, not gonna be any for me for quite some time as we are looking to pay off my car about 4 years sooner.

 

Nice work, fellas...sounds like you got a LOT done in LITTLE time.
I don't want to be a party pooper (especially since you did the research on which way the rotors should face) but I confirmed with Sean after my install that the rotors should be installed the way he labeled them. I asked him after noticing that almost all other brands faced the other way. He said that the brakemotive ones were supposed to spin the other way.

About the fapping (trust me, I'm an expert on FAPPING)...this the noise? It was bad when I ran the autozone pads since they didn't have a beveled edge anymore (on the rear)...it pretty much went away with the brakemotive pads...you only hear it when you're lightly applying brake, now. It's due to the air that gets caught and squeezed through the slots...also, you may have it worse with the slots facing the other way because the sound is almost nonexistent once I put the BM pads in.

 

Great write up Dave....

Jeremy, I think Dave spoke to Sean as well and he said it doesnt matter from the looks of it it depends on the direction of the internal cooling vane....since the cooling vanes are straight it shouldnt matter which direction they rotate in....but either way he is setup exactly opposite as you have it in that video....



now enough of this internet talk, J since you have this brake setup since a while and experienced that "problem" i honor your response more than the internet pics....so did that noise go away when you installed em the other way around? Or in your case was it the brake pads? since I do hear the noise coming from the David's front brakes as well....

 

Can do! Everything that I've read is nothing but good reviews about the kit from Sean.

Hey no big deal, gotta do what you gotta do. I'm more naive than you are I actually recently changed my payment schedule - twice a month with 10% more each payment of the minimum. It would be nice to pay it off way early, though. Good luck!

I'd say we're all an expert in fapping
That's pretty much the noise I get, but it seems like the noise goes away when I apply the brakes slightly, which doesn't really make sense lol I installed the BM pads, which are beveled, and can clearly hear it without even having a wall for the sound to bounce off of. And I think it's odd that the noise changes if I change directions slightly. However, it seems to be dying down a bit after breaking them in. I can still hear in driving through a parking garage, but not as bad.

Here's a snippit from the convo between Sean and I:So I'm going to guess that it would increase the fapping noise. We'll see how it goes with time.

It seems like from all 4 wheels, yeah. Maybe this weekend I'll jack it up again and spin the wheels and see if I can get a better read.

 

Thanks guys...well, before you say we're ALL fapping experts, you gotta see my forearms.

Ok, seriously though and thanks for that Anil.
With the autozone pads...the rears were NOT beveled, so I had the noise REALLY loud when just rolling. When you brake, it stopped. I am sure the fronts did it to a certain degree but couldn't hear it over the rears.

When I put in the beveled BM pads...it got quiet enough to not mind it. BUT, when lightly applying the brakes I do hear the light slap/slap/fap/skeet noise. BUT, i love it now. I am sure when my pads get lower I'll grab my grinder and put a beveled edge back on it to keep them tame.

NOW, my guess for you is that with the directions reversed it might be changing the acoustics and you're hearing it MORE than I do. Maybe...again, don't want you on a mission to swap for no reason. That's great info about the rotors and direction, thank you. To be honest, aesthetically I've always liked the look of the vanes pointing backward better (even though NOBODY does that).

J.

 

Ok here is my contribution to the brake portion of this convo. I have the BM rotors and pads installed the way the stickers said, and I have 0 noise issues whatsoever. David did you do the proper bed in procedure following the card that came with the rotors? I did that within seconds of installing and have had no issues except for a little vibration here and there.

 

Matt has a little vibrator

 

I agree on both accounts - hearing it more due to swapping sides AND the look of the slots pointing backwards!

And don't be confused - there are slots and vanes. The slots are what you see on the outside, and the vanes are internal in the rotor (only our front rotors have the vanes). I found another good write-up on the topic:
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/brake_FAQ.htm

 

Yeah, we hit up the road and did a bed in process but didn't follow the instructions because I didn't know there was a card to read until I cleaned up yesterday

 

Dave, if you still have that card do the bed in procedure again following the instructions on the card. I don't think it can hurt

 

Matt, first we need to find out if the break in procedure we did and the one on the card is different....also once the pad material is on the rotors, you will have to sand the rotors down and repeat the break in procedure....

Dave, how different was the break in procedure on the card than what we did ?

 

the car looks good keep the progress going

 

...you were right about me using vanes instead of slots. I meant the direction of the slots.

The vanes make sense...if they're directional you'd want them pointed forward to scoop up fresh cool air and not just whiz past it. Unless of course you want really cool brakes for when you auto cross a course in reverse.

 

I'll have to find where I put the box that has that card/booklet in it to read when I get home.

Thanks Briar!

Didn't mean to come off stubborn if I did. Just making sure we're on the same page And a reverse course would be interesting haha

 

OK-maybe a stupid question, but I thought I read where drilled & slotted rotors get weaker quicker. After putting these on, what is the verdict?

 

^^^I think that might be over the long haul Steven...I know older drilled rotors were prone to forming cracks around the holes but these have a beveled edge around the holes AND Sean guarantees them for a long time. I wouldn't worry!

 

Agreed.

I also looked into dimpled rotors, but the difference in expected life is so minimal it doesn't matter. At least for average driving. Perhaps for racing it would matter

 

I auto x my car 4 times a day and mine are holding up fine...