Exedy and many other clutch kits are actually LUK repackaged and price hiked. Want the best deal on a clutch kit? LUK from rockauto. They were the OEM supplier for our clutches, but do get an OEM release bearing from Acura.
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Your comments are misleading. You either haven't read through this thread are simply don't care.
We aren't talking about an Exedy off-the-shelf replacement clutch kit. We are talking about very
specific parts. Please read through this thread before posting useless crap.
All there needs to be is a flywheel just like the K20C / FK8 Civic Type R flywheel, that can accommodate the same FK8 clutch and FK8 pressure plate -- BUT it fits J-series, preferably the newer, 2008+ engines.
That's about the only thing that I see becoming popular / desired by most people.
Then with ONE PART that doesn't wear out, people can:
A) Have an upgrade from the stock J-series clutch/pressure plate by using readily available consumable parts such as OEM Honda FK8 Clutch discs, OEM Honda pressure plates.
B) Have freedom to upgrade beyond OEM Honda FK8 clutch / pressure plate to already existing, aftermarket FK8 clutch/pressure plate options.
Agreed. And it's feasible, but requires some prototyping and testing. And the clutch pedal may not end up at a desirable height.
Prototype flywheels are not cheap. And removing/installing the powertrain to test out a clutch/flywheel setup is a lot of work.
I've done it seven times to get a clutch/flywheel setup that meets my high standards.
I've done a lot of testing and prototyping and know exactly what to expect from the parts combination that I've put together.
It works and it works quite well.
Agreed. And it's feasible, but requires some prototyping and testing. And the clutch pedal may not end up at a desirable height.
Prototype flywheels are not cheap. And removing/installing the powertrain to test out a clutch/flywheel setup is a lot of work.
I've done it seven times to get a clutch/flywheel setup that meets my high standards.
I've done a lot of testing and prototyping and know exactly what to expect from the parts combination that I've put together.
It works and it works quite well.
FK8 clutch fork is same as J-series (https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuin...1-ppp-000.html). I like your method of using the washer to shim out the clutch fork ball/fulcrum (22825-R8R-000) -- (side note: The only difference between this and the 2003-2011 clutch fork ball (22825-P0S-000) is that older uses 6-point 21mm socket, whereas the newer one uses 12-point 21mm socket. (I recently ordered both of these sockets to add to my J-series / FK8 transmission specific drawer in my toolbox lol). This leaves me to believe that the clutch pedal could be adjusted accordingly to be at the proper height.
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An interesting link I found a while back. Finally got around to pulling out my 07-08 TL-S OEM Flywheel/clutch/pressure plate, along with an OEM FK8 flywheel that was given to me by one of my FK8 transmission customers after he broke the ring gear off while missshifting at the drag strip.
The inner diameter (ID) of the 07-08 TL-S flywheel's starter ring gear is larger than the ID of the FK8 flywheel's starter ring gear. So this method would not work. https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads...rogress.37274/
I previously reached out to Sean Yearwood (P2R) about the J37 crank washer kit that he sells (https://www.powerrevracing.com/P2R-J...Kit-p/p379.htm).
I told him about this thread and I asked him how thick his spacer/washer was. He sent me this pic;
I think I found a flywheel that will work with 08+ J FWD using AWD TL clutch and pp. Maybe I'll take the gamble and order one. Only problem is that it costs same price as aluminum clutchmasters flywheel.
Seems like the most sensible route would be to create a solidworks drawing of what's needed, and get some overseas company to manufacturer them. In 2017 I bought a solid, one piece chromoly flywheel for my H22 transmission. That thing was phenomenal quality. $130 shipped via Amazon prime with same day delivery. That set the bar very high for my expectations lol. I think that the biggest appeal that most people have with J-series is that they're a very good engine that has super high availability, so used, salvage engines are very cheap.
Obviously, nothing will ever ever be able to be cheaper than highly available / common salvage parts. But I also think that people are going to be reluctant to drop 2-3x the amount that they paid for their engines on a clutch/flywheel/pressure plate setup, especially if it requires a custom, consumable parts (such as clutch discs). However, I DO think that a solid, single mass flywheel in the $550 shipped range would be reasonable / appealing if it allowed people to use FK8 clutch disc/pressure plates.
My post edit window expired: I was going to add that I wanted to at least see what I could accomplish with the flywheel/clutch/pp pursuits / cross references first. I may end up going with your setup afterall though Eric. Do you have pics of modifications that were done to the flywheel? Or did you already post these and I have somehow glossed over it?
In my shop right now I have these transmissions. If there's any pictures or measurements that you or anyone else needs for this project, I will do my best to provide them;
* '03 CL-S 6MT
* '03-07 Accord / 04-06 TL 6MT
* '07-08 TL-S 6MT
* '08-12 Accord Coupe V6 6MT
* '10-14 TL-S AWD 6MT
* '13-17 Accord Coupe V6 6MT
* '17 FK8 Civic Type R 6MT
* '18 Accord Sport 2.0T 6MT
I see that aasco has a flywheel for the 4g TL, is there a sprung disk that can be ran with the oem pressure plate? currently running a 17 civic si 1.5 pressure plate with a p2r non sprung disk with my 2013 TL, little worried about using a non sprung disk with out a dual mass flywheel
Installing a lite AASCO flywheel with a OEM pressure plate with a P2R 6 puck non sprung disk on a 2013 TL, wish me luck, hoping the OEM CMC will help with the shock and engagement not being to harsh
I would consider the Aisin disc equivalent to the stock disc, but with damping springs. Yes, the springs clear the pressure plate.
The stock flywheel is 32 lbs, see my first post in this thread.
I would consider the Aisin disc equivalent to the stock disc, but with damping springs. Yes, the springs clear the pressure plate.
The stock flywheel is 32 lbs, see my first post in this thread.
yeah for some odd reason on another computer the weighs did not come in but saw them on another computer screen, I think Ill just chance the factory clutch disk over the legend, my TL is making around 340 whp and should engage better then the P2R disk, appreciate the info
I had some custom discs made a while back (see posts #129 and #146 above). Two varieties, organic and carbon Kevlar (CK) lining.
Identical except for the lining material. The organic discs are heavy duty with brass fibers in the mix. They can handle a bit more
heat than a typical organic OEM disc. They have enclosed springs, so a broken spring won't cause a complete failure.
The organic disc might be a tiny bit smoother, but the CK disc still feels very smooth.
Heat is the concern with any disc. Organic lining material is held together with fiberglass. Too much heat and it melts together. This is
typically called "glazing", because it looks like glass after that. And likewise, doesn't work worth a shit because the friction coefficient
goes out the window. Some modern organic lining materials have some strands of brass or copper in it for the purpose of dissipating
some of the heat. It helps, but not significantly. The CK is kind of a mid-range material because it handles notably more heat than organic,
but it's not nasty with engagement like full carbon or a metallic lining. It really is the best material, unless you have a high horsepower
setup that needs very aggressive friction material.
Just to confirm; the pressure plate that comes with the Exedy Clutch kit HCK1012 is the necessary "HCC557", correct?
No one has the individual HCC557 in stock anywhere, and I'm contemplating buying the entire clutch kit and ditching the clutch disk, and maybe doing it next weekend (MDW '22).
I already bought the modified pressure plate/clutch disk from member @simione so the pressure plate is the last piece of the pie that I need.
I have a spare pressure plate on hand that I could part with. I drive my car so very little that I'll probably never need to replace the clutch.
From all my Googling of 3rd party retailers and no one having the HCC557 in stock, I worry about ordering from an OEM Acura wholesaler just to get an email after order confirmation saying "sorry- not in stock, no known availability". Especially since it doesn't explicitly state "In Stock".
Just to confirm; the pressure plate that comes with the Exedy Clutch kit HCK1012 is the necessary "HCC557", correct?
No one has the individual HCC557 in stock anywhere, and I'm contemplating buying the entire clutch kit and ditching the clutch disk, and maybe doing it next weekend (MDW '22).
I already bought the modified FLYWHEEL/clutch disk from member @simione so the pressure plate is the last piece of the pie that I need.
Fixed.
I'm just happy I'm not the only one who 1: hated the SAC/DMF combo, and 2: equally hated the ClutchMasters FX250. I installed that 14 months ago and have hated it since day 1. Never a consistent clutch engagement, chatters like a mo-fo, etc etc. Unfortunately I stumbled across this thread with Eric's displeasure of the ClutchMasters unit after I installed mine. I'm very excited to get this almost-OEM setup going!
It's the best clutch setup so far for J-series. Don't forget to install the shim on the ball stud. And be prepared to adjust the clutch pedal. It's usually a little low with this setup.
The pedal adjustment procedure is in the shop manual. I can't remember, but I think the manual doesn't mention that you have to pull up the carpet to access the floor sheet
metal. And there is a small flap in the acoustic insulation that needs to be pulled back.
It's the best clutch setup so far for J-series. Don't forget to install the shim on the ball stud. And be prepared to adjust the clutch pedal. It's usually a little low with this setup.
The pedal adjustment procedure is in the shop manual. I can't remember, but I think the manual doesn't mention that you have to pull up the carpet to access the floor sheet
metal. And there is a small flap in the acoustic insulation that needs to be pulled back.
Ok so I finally received all 3 Brockway Engineering components; flywheel, clutch disk & pressure plate
My only question is regarding the ball stud shim, I don't believe I received one. If it's simply a washer ground down to a certain thickness, I can do that at work tomorrow. I just need to know what size washer and ground down to what thickness?
Scratch that, I found the the ball stud shim taped the outside of the box.
I was too excited while simultaneously unboxing the crate short block of the subie
Scratch that, I found the the ball stud shim taped the outside of the box.
I was too excited while simultaneously unboxing the crate short block of the subie
I only have ~100 miles of break-in on the Brockway Engineering clutch setup, and holy SHIT does it feel good! Nay, not good. PERFECT.
Pedal effort is minimal (less than the FX250), engagement is smooth and consistent, and best of all.... THERE'S NO MORE CHATTERING!!!!
Even if I fail to give her enough rpm's to take off (~8-900, because I'm still getting used to it compared to the inconsistent CM) which would've chattered like a MO-FO, she handles it like a beaut.
10/10 would recommend this clutch setup for all J-series.
I only have ~100 miles of break-in on the Brockway Engineering clutch setup, and holy SHIT does it feel good! Nay, not good. PERFECT.
Pedal effort is minimal (less than the FX250), engagement is smooth and consistent, and best of all.... THERE'S NO MORE CHATTERING!!!!
Even if I fail to give her enough rpm's to take off (~8-900, because I'm still getting used to it compared to the inconsistent CM) which would've chattered like a MO-FO, she handles it like a beaut.
10/10 would recommend this clutch setup for all J-series.
I just got mine installed Monday and got the car back yesterday. Don't have much time on the new clutch, but it does feel great. So much better than the XLR8 "daily" that was taken out. Same exact experience as you when comparing the 2 clutches (pedal effort, chattering, engagement).
Eric was very helpful answering questions along the way, couldn't recommend him and his products enough.
Did this component ever come to realization? tested? reviews?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Euro-R_Spec_TSX
There is a new clutch setup available for the older style flywheels (04-06 TL). High quality Exedy pressure plate. More info coming soon.
Did this component ever come to realization? tested? reviews?
Acura noob here Been tryna do research for an upcoming clutch job my friend asked me for. I started as usual with some prelim google shopping, realized i didn't recognize ANY brand names so came to forums to see what brands Acura peeps chatting about. Glad I did since there seems to be a lot of potential issues, weak points, over priced reboxed parts and junk 'performance' parts in the after market. With all the mismatching of components from different generations and acura terms slang and codes on this thread, its been hard to follow along with an understanding of what pertains to my application and what doesn't. Guess it depends on what combo I go with.
So, what combo would be a slight upgrade from stock / eliminating weak points. I don't think budget avail for light weight fly wheel (600?) but for the right price, Id def like to have a new 'stock' flywheel on hand, although its still unclear if there's a reasonably priced upgrade or a way to cut out the dealer if OE is the go to. Disc choice doesn't seem like a super stressful decision but def sounds like stock pressure plate is a component I may wanna get away from, so I am replying to this comment in this thread here and now before heading over to marketplace (fingers crossed im not breaking AZ rules re 'sale/trade/want to buy posts and threads'.
Open to single component recommendations, custom combo recommendations, purchasing parts / kits / combos here on forum as possible for bone stock, street intended, J32A3 that's about to be raised back from the dead starting with clutch.
A great sharing of knowledge and experience, countless hours of time and effort put into testing, trial and error going on here. Much appreciated Unwillingness to settle for poor quality of feel or performane, love it! TY in advanced. Cheers ~ p
See post #149 for details about a potential setup using an OEM Exedy pressure plate and disc. But it requires machining the flywheel, which is not an easy task.
Someone pointed me to this option, which is what I would use if I needed a clutch for the older style trans:
Hi,
I am new here and have a 2013 TL 6MT. Couple of questions,
1. Did I read it correctly that DM flywheel for J35 is the same as J37? I see I can get DM flywheel for J35, but not on J37 on rockauto website.
2. I read that clutch master FX100 and their flywheel conversion kit is good, no chatter, but here, people are saying it does have chatter. The better flywheel is Aasco with Brockway engineering clutch.
Can you please help as which flywheel and which clutch would be the best? No chatter or almost perfect like one user said. Thank you. I am learning a lot from everyone here.
I only have ~100 miles of break-in on the Brockway Engineering clutch setup, and holy SHIT does it feel good! Nay, not good. PERFECT.
Pedal effort is minimal (less than the FX250), engagement is smooth and consistent, and best of all.... THERE'S NO MORE CHATTERING!!!!
Even if I fail to give her enough rpm's to take off (~8-900, because I'm still getting used to it compared to the inconsistent CM) which would've chattered like a MO-FO, she handles it like a beaut.
10/10 would recommend this clutch setup for all J-series.
I have 2013 TL 6MT. I was leaning towards Clutch Mater for clutch and Flywheel. I see you had issues with CM. What did you go with to get your PERFECT no chatter? If you can provide models and or links, would appreciate it a lot. Thank you.
Hi,
I am new here and have a 2013 TL 6MT. Couple of questions,
1. Did I read it correctly that DM flywheel for J35 is the same as J37? I see I can get DM flywheel for J35, but not on J37 on rockauto website.
2. I read that clutch master FX100 and their flywheel conversion kit is good, no chatter, but here, people are saying it does have chatter. The better flywheel is Aasco with Brockway engineering clutch.
Can you please help as which flywheel and which clutch would be the best? No chatter or almost perfect like one user said. Thank you. I am learning a lot from everyone here.
J35A8 flywheel and J37A4 flywheel are not interchangeable due to height differences. Stick with the original dual mass flywheel. It's made by Exedy and high quality. Don't change it unless it's high mileage and/or has other issues. The OEM clutch is made by Exedy as well and it's high quality. You can get the same Exedy clutch kit from Rock Auto. Part number HCK1012. This is higher quality than ANY aftermarket clutch kit for J37A4. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...lutch+kit,1993
If you are boosted or plan on boosting, then get a carbon Kevlar clutch disc from Brockway and use it with the Exedy pressure plate.
My quest to find a nice OEM clutch/flywheel has resulted in success, but I've had to
accumulate 3 sets of clutches/flywheels. As everyone knows, the options for J-Series
clutches and flywheels are extremely limited. My research will help shed some light
on the subject and for some us, we have a nice option...
Exhibit A: J37 flywheel on the left, J35 in the middle and J32 on the right.
For those that don't know, the J32 and J35 flywheels are NOT interchangeable.
The main difference is the ring gear location. It's further away from the block on
the J35 application. The clutch case part of the transmission is different for the J35 block.
Besides the block mounting surface, the starter location is further back on the J35 trans.
The starter is the same though for all 04'~08 MT TLs. The J37 flywheel has the same ring
gear position as the J35 and after some other measurements, looks like a viable direct
fit onto a J35. What I like about the J37 flywheel is that it is made by Exedy. Very high
quality. It also doesn't have the rotational slop like the Luk flywheels (J32 and J35). The
J37 clutch and disc is also made by Exedy. The clutch is the main attraction here. No self-
adjusting crap. Just a normal clutch. This is what made me investigate the J37 clutch/flywheel
in the first place. One thing to note is that this clutch cannot be used on the J35 flywheel.
The locating pins are a slightly different circle diameter and the distance from the mounting
surface to the friction surface is different by 2mm.
There are 2 negatives with the J37 setup.
1. Price. Unless you are lucky enough to find a nice used one, a brand new flywheel is over $1K.
2. Weight. The J37 flywheel and clutch both weigh more than the J35 setup (see following table).
Disclaimer: I haven't installed the J37 flywheel/clutch on my engine yet, so I can't comment any
further than my visual observations and measurements of the parts. Weights could be off by as
much as 1/2 lb due to me using a vehicle scale that does not display fractional units.
Measurements rounded to the nearest .25 mm.
The research you did is second to none as I had to learn this the hard very hard way. Upgrading my 2006 Tl to the j35a8 engine has been and very long and learning road. After finding out the bell housing was different i sourced a type s 6 speed. Next step was finding out the hard way the flywheel being different. What I was wondering with your research are the flywheel bolts different between the tl j32 base and the type s?
got my brockway kit installed a couple days ago along with a bunch of other maint. looking forward to putting some miles on it for a proper review after break in but initial impression feels great. j36 using custom aasco lwfw and old pattern (04-06 TL) block/trans.
Been tryna do research for an upcoming clutch job my friend asked me for. I started as usual with some prelim google shopping, realized i didn't recognize ANY brand names so came to forums to see what brands Acura peeps chatting about. Glad I did since there seems to be a lot of potential issues, weak points, over priced reboxed parts and junk 'performance' parts in the after market. With all the mismatching of components from different generations and acura terms slang and codes on this thread, its been hard to follow along with an understanding of what pertains to my application and what doesn't. Guess it depends on what combo I go with.
