Aftermarket Clutch/Flywheel ?
#1
Aftermarket Clutch/Flywheel ?
How's it going, I just recently found out I need a new clutch, my car was acting really weird but luckily I found a forum with someone who had the same exact symptoms (wouldn't go in to gear clutch pedal kinda stuck, etc.) So I found out it was time for a new clutch.
I'm going to apologize if this has already been answered but I've been looking everywhere for threads about aftermarket clutches and anything I find is 2011 or older.
Now, by next spring I plan to at least start doing bolt ons, tune, and hopefully build the motor etc., I'm looking for around 300 whp when it's all said and done (probably a year or two) I do mostly highway driving so I'm not worried if the clutch is stiff (drove a nissan with stage 2 and I loved how it felt) but I've heard something like a puck clutch is impossible to daily. So my question is; what clutch/flywheel combination should I look at to hold some decent power for my daily, and still be within a considerable price range (I can spend about 1,100 in parts before labor costs right now). Thanks for your time.
I'm going to apologize if this has already been answered but I've been looking everywhere for threads about aftermarket clutches and anything I find is 2011 or older.
Now, by next spring I plan to at least start doing bolt ons, tune, and hopefully build the motor etc., I'm looking for around 300 whp when it's all said and done (probably a year or two) I do mostly highway driving so I'm not worried if the clutch is stiff (drove a nissan with stage 2 and I loved how it felt) but I've heard something like a puck clutch is impossible to daily. So my question is; what clutch/flywheel combination should I look at to hold some decent power for my daily, and still be within a considerable price range (I can spend about 1,100 in parts before labor costs right now). Thanks for your time.
#2
Because the clutch pedal sunk doesnt necessarily means u have a bad clutch... Could be bad clutch master cyl.. Bad slave cyl or a leak in the lines too... As for clutch n flywheel if you are a type S from what i understand stock clutch n p2r pressure plate can easily hold that... A fidanza flywheel should be good too.. A lot of ppl think if they get all these different stage clutches is better when infact you may tear up your trans or internals messing with stage 3 clutches n crap like that... Highest for a 300whp should be a stage 1 clutch.. Just cause the numbers go up or the clutch is stiffer doesnt make it better in all cases
#3
Because the clutch pedal sunk doesnt necessarily means u have a bad clutch... Could be bad clutch master cyl.. Bad slave cyl or a leak in the lines too... As for clutch n flywheel if you are a type S from what i understand stock clutch n p2r pressure plate can easily hold that... A fidanza flywheel should be good too.. A lot of ppl think if they get all these different stage clutches is better when infact you may tear up your trans or internals messing with stage 3 clutches n crap like that... Highest for a 300whp should be a stage 1 clutch.. Just cause the numbers go up or the clutch is stiffer doesnt make it better in all cases
-http://forums.anandtech.com/archive/index.php/t-2288997.html
It looks like he ended up needing a new clutch so that's what I'm preparing myself for, just looking for recommendations or info on the best replacement for my needs.
#4
runnin a little boost
iTrader: (3)
Thanks for that info! Sorry, I should've specified, it's a 2005 6mt base model. I was told to check the cmc, slave cyl and also the lines and I plan on having it diagnosed by the dealer asap, however, I figured if I was making more power and I'm over 130k on the factory clutch (second owner) I would need a new clutch anyway, I might as well get that done now. I was searching my symptoms and they matched exactly to this thread
-http://forums.anandtech.com/archive/index.php/t-2288997.html
It looks like he ended up needing a new clutch so that's what I'm preparing myself for, just looking for recommendations or info on the best replacement for my needs.
-http://forums.anandtech.com/archive/index.php/t-2288997.html
It looks like he ended up needing a new clutch so that's what I'm preparing myself for, just looking for recommendations or info on the best replacement for my needs.
I used a 6 puck clutch disc (P2R) with the stock flywheel and pressure plate and it was ok but, the pressure plate didn't have the grip to hold for very long at higher boost levels. I haven't driven a car with a lightweight flywheel but, the conventional clutch would be nice and might be worth the extra money and issues the lightweight flywheel might cause. I now have a twin disc clutch that I haven't driven yet and should fix any slipping issues I was having.
Last edited by Hi speed; 10-17-2014 at 10:41 PM.
#5
You are better off getting the OEM clutch. Changing to an aftermarket setup is expensive and not needed grip wise until around 340 WHP. That said many people don't like the non conventional stock clutch setup in the TL. A conventional clutch setup has a solid flywheel with a sprung clutch disc. ( springs in the middle of the disc you can see ). The TL uses a sprung flywheel and a solid clutch disc. This is why you have to buy a new flywheel, disc and pressure plate when switching to an aftermarket setup using the conventional style clutch and what makes it much more expensive than using the OEM clutch.
I used a 6 puck clutch disc (P2R) with the stock flywheel and pressure plate and it was ok but, the pressure plate didn't have the grip to hold for very long at higher boost levels. I haven't driven a car with a lightweight flywheel but, the conventional clutch would be nice and might be worth the extra money and issues the lightweight flywheel might cause. I now have a twin disc clutch that I haven't driven yet and should fix any slipping issues I was having.
I used a 6 puck clutch disc (P2R) with the stock flywheel and pressure plate and it was ok but, the pressure plate didn't have the grip to hold for very long at higher boost levels. I haven't driven a car with a lightweight flywheel but, the conventional clutch would be nice and might be worth the extra money and issues the lightweight flywheel might cause. I now have a twin disc clutch that I haven't driven yet and should fix any slipping issues I was having.
This is where I'm looking to get the clutch:
2004-2008 Acura TL Clutch Kit - Clutch - LUK 04-08 TL Clutch Kit - 17777-07088976 - PartsGeek
Thanks again for your time, I appreciate it.
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Modassir (10-19-2014)
Trending Topics
#9
There is no flywheel unfortunately that works for the 04-06 6mt... Ive spent some time checking this out... Sonnic n atlas n everyone with other flywheels have other cars.. Something about the 04-06 tl's and i cant quite remember but it wont work.... Physically it bolts fine but something about the flywheel that causes a weird harsh shifts and more... Clutch wise im 155k and still can beat on mines fine... Ill eventually get the p2r pressure plate to pair with OEM because that does feel pretty good.. If anyone find a good lightweight flywheel for the TL 04-06 id like to know how n the experience
The following users liked this post:
Modassir (10-19-2014)
#11
runnin a little boost
iTrader: (3)
There is no flywheel unfortunately that works for the 04-06 6mt... Ive spent some time checking this out... Sonnic n atlas n everyone with other flywheels have other cars.. Something about the 04-06 tl's and i cant quite remember but it wont work.... Physically it bolts fine but something about the flywheel that causes a weird harsh shifts and more... Clutch wise im 155k and still can beat on mines fine... Ill eventually get the p2r pressure plate to pair with OEM because that does feel pretty good.. If anyone find a good lightweight flywheel for the TL 04-06 id like to know how n the experience
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Kimberly Bounharsa (06-17-2020)
#13
runnin a little boost
iTrader: (3)
I think your really better off going that direction. OEM is cheaper, more durable and will easily hold 100+ more HP that the engine makes stock. I never had my stock clutch slip, I just changed to the 6 puck because I was going turbo and needed something with more grip. I drove the car with the stock clutch for 30k miles with the supercharger with no issues and the disc looked petty good when removed.
The following 3 users liked this post by Hi speed:
#14
I could be wrong but, I think Assco fixed the starter ring problems for the 04-06 cars. The issue with using a solid flywheel and a solid clutch disc is the harsh shifts since you don't have any flex or dampening in the system. It may be possible to drive the car but, is damaging the transmission and other parts with the extra stress of the harsh engagements even when driven carefully.
#15
runnin a little boost
iTrader: (3)
I'm not sure how much the LW flywheel would hurt the driving experience as far as stop and go traffic since the car has a fair amount of TQ. The regular clutch would be nice. If you still have to go thru removing your stock starter ring from the flywheel and have it welded that would suck. My current setup is a Assco flywheel I believe and starts like stock. I bought it used and may have been modified to work right for the 04-06 starters.
#16
Maybe because im coming from a nissan im a tad biased lol... Car has no tq.. Its shit lmao... I do track every once in a blue moon... But haven seen where the aasco worked in 04-06..
#17
I think your really better off going that direction. OEM is cheaper, more durable and will easily hold 100+ more HP that the engine makes stock. I never had my stock clutch slip, I just changed to the 6 puck because I was going turbo and needed something with more grip. I drove the car with the stock clutch for 30k miles with the supercharger with no issues and the disc looked petty good when removed.
#18
Three Wheelin'
An aftermarket setup is definitely worth it if you're looking for performance over the stock setup.
Though this is mostly for a Type S, check out his thread, good info here, and the vendors that are discussed are pretty much the ones that offer aftermarket flywheels / clutches for our TLs (not sure about 04-06 base models, but check):
https://acurazine.com/forums/perform...ch-kit-904261/
Though this is mostly for a Type S, check out his thread, good info here, and the vendors that are discussed are pretty much the ones that offer aftermarket flywheels / clutches for our TLs (not sure about 04-06 base models, but check):
https://acurazine.com/forums/perform...ch-kit-904261/
The following users liked this post:
Modassir (10-21-2014)
#19
An aftermarket setup is definitely worth it if you're looking for performance over the stock setup.
Though this is mostly for a Type S, check out his thread, good info here, and the vendors that are discussed are pretty much the ones that offer aftermarket flywheels / clutches for our TLs (not sure about 04-06 base models, but check):
https://acurazine.com/forums/perform...ch-kit-904261/
Though this is mostly for a Type S, check out his thread, good info here, and the vendors that are discussed are pretty much the ones that offer aftermarket flywheels / clutches for our TLs (not sure about 04-06 base models, but check):
https://acurazine.com/forums/perform...ch-kit-904261/
#20
Three Wheelin'
AASCO Aluminum Flywheel, 2004-06 Acura TL / 2001-03 Acura CL / 2003-07 Honda Accord, 103212-11 - HeelToe Automotive
Confirm with Marcus from Heeltoe that it's for the 04-06 base 6mt.
A Stage 1 or 2 clutch + solid single mass flywheel will feel just like stock in this car, or within ~10-20% of the OEM pedal feel. It drives fine, have no fear.
Last edited by FamilyGuy; 10-21-2014 at 08:34 PM.
#21
Heeltow shows one, from AASCO (even though it's not on the AASCO website):
AASCO Aluminum Flywheel, 2004-06 Acura TL / 2001-03 Acura CL / 2003-07 Honda Accord, 103212-11 - HeelToe Automotive
Confirm with Marcus from Heeltoe that it's for the 04-06 base 6mt.
A Stage 1 or 2 clutch + solid single mass flywheel will feel just like stock in this car, or within ~10-20% of the OEM pedal feel. It drives fine, have no fear.
AASCO Aluminum Flywheel, 2004-06 Acura TL / 2001-03 Acura CL / 2003-07 Honda Accord, 103212-11 - HeelToe Automotive
Confirm with Marcus from Heeltoe that it's for the 04-06 base 6mt.
A Stage 1 or 2 clutch + solid single mass flywheel will feel just like stock in this car, or within ~10-20% of the OEM pedal feel. It drives fine, have no fear.
#22
Instructor
iTrader: (2)
Sonnick is using the clutchmasters fx250 with their flywheel ( an aasco with aascos name shaved off, LOL) and he said it grabs HARD.
When I had the final drive installed, I opted for the spec stage 3+ and haven't had any issues with it thus far. The clutch pedal is about %50 more stiff than stock
Last edited by simione; 10-22-2014 at 08:42 AM.
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Sonnick (10-24-2014)
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Grand_hustle17 (10-22-2014)
#24
You know what..... You could be right lmao
#25
Three Wheelin'
A Spec stage 1 or 2 (they also show a lightweight flywheel for a base model TL), or a CM FX250 or FX350 would feel very much like stock, but grab harder and free up a few hp.
Also, remove the delay valve from your slave cylinder, and your clutch will feel like any other normal car.
Last edited by FamilyGuy; 10-22-2014 at 01:26 PM.
#26
Instructor
iTrader: (2)
XLR8 Performance also shows the AASCO flywheel on their site for the 04-06 TL, and I believe Clutchmasters' clutches retain the stock pressure plate design (self-adjusting). Just make a few calls and you'll find out everything you need. The photos of the products are generic pics, so you need to follow up with the vendors, but it looks like the base model TL has options. Like I said, it's def worth it if you're looking to maximize performance. Together with a lightweight pulley, the first 3 gears pull much harder than stock with the reduced weight.
A Spec stage 1 or 2 (they also show a lightweight flywheel for a base model TL), or a CM FX250 or FX350 would feel very much like stock, but grab harder and free up a few hp.
Also, remove the delay valve from your slave cylinder, and your clutch will feel like any other normal car.
A Spec stage 1 or 2 (they also show a lightweight flywheel for a base model TL), or a CM FX250 or FX350 would feel very much like stock, but grab harder and free up a few hp.
Also, remove the delay valve from your slave cylinder, and your clutch will feel like any other normal car.
#27
Three Wheelin'
clutchmasters does not use SAC, and depending on if you order the spec clutch with their flywheel, determines whether or not you get a beefed up sac pressure plate or not. I have aasco flywheel, so I received a beefed up sac pressure plate. If you get their flywheel, it eliminates SAC. Gerzand has spec stage 3 with their flywheel, had he said the pedal feels like stock and it grabs really good
You can clearly see the Clutchmaster's SAC on the video from member camrtm3 on the other thread I linked above (towards bottom of 1st page). In fact, take a good look, because you'll notice it's a LUK unit. All CM does, supposedly, is change out the springs for stronger ones, or so they say. Their flywheel isn't theirs either, it's an AASCO unit. So basically all CM does is paint some shit white and charge you more money for it.
When I did mine, Spec showed both OEM (SAC) and non-SAC model numbers on their site, but when I spoke with them they said the site needed to be updated, because they discontinued the OEM style ones and were only offering the non-SAC models, which is what I got. These pressure plates are stronger than the OEM SAC designs.
In any case, anyone looking at theirs today - just pick up the phone, make a few calls and see what each company is offering right now for your model TL
#30
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
We're working on putting together a package. It will use an AASCO flywheel and custom clutch kit we're having designed. It should be streetable and more durable than any other kit on the market.
In the meantime, for those who need something soon a CM clutch setup will probably be the best option.
In the meantime, for those who need something soon a CM clutch setup will probably be the best option.
#32
All motor
I have a TL transmission and the CM FX250 setup works just fine with their (AASCO) flywheel. I get chatter from time to time but otherwise it's a great setup and grabs HARD. I chirp 4th nearly every time I shift hard. The engagement point is definitely lower than stock as well, and the pedal pressure feels just like stock, dare I say even a wee bit lighter.
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InFaMouSLink (10-29-2014)
#33
Thats what i dont want lol... Chatter
#34
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
I could be wrong but, I think Assco fixed the starter ring problems for the 04-06 cars. The issue with using a solid flywheel and a solid clutch disc is the harsh shifts since you don't have any flex or dampening in the system. It may be possible to drive the car but, is damaging the transmission and other parts with the extra stress of the harsh engagements even when driven carefully.
XLR8 Performance also shows the AASCO flywheel on their site for the 04-06 TL, and I believe Clutchmasters' clutches retain the stock pressure plate design (self-adjusting). Just make a few calls and you'll find out everything you need. The photos of the products are generic pics, so you need to follow up with the vendors, but it looks like the base model TL has options. Like I said, it's def worth it if you're looking to maximize performance. Together with a lightweight pulley, the first 3 gears pull much harder than stock with the reduced weight.
A Spec stage 1 or 2 (they also show a lightweight flywheel for a base model TL), or a CM FX250 or FX350 would feel very much like stock, but grab harder and free up a few hp.
Also, remove the delay valve from your slave cylinder, and your clutch will feel like any other normal car.
A Spec stage 1 or 2 (they also show a lightweight flywheel for a base model TL), or a CM FX250 or FX350 would feel very much like stock, but grab harder and free up a few hp.
Also, remove the delay valve from your slave cylinder, and your clutch will feel like any other normal car.
I have a TL transmission and the CM FX250 setup works just fine with their (AASCO) flywheel. I get chatter from time to time but otherwise it's a great setup and grabs HARD. I chirp 4th nearly every time I shift hard. The engagement point is definitely lower than stock as well, and the pedal pressure feels just like stock, dare I say even a wee bit lighter.
That depends a bit on how you drive and what clutch you have. What Sonnick describes does not sound like a chattery clutch...it sounds like a great clutch that can chatter from time to time.
The following 2 users liked this post by Excelerate:
Grand_hustle17 (12-05-2014),
thisaznboi88 (12-04-2014)
#36
I think i want to look into a LW flywheel... Now that i have more time to gather parts lol
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