What exactly does a UR crank pulley do to my car? does it hurt it or help it? I have an 05 tl 6mt

 

UR is the brand (Unorthodox Racing). The device itself is the crank pulley. 2 sizes, stock and underdrive. Stock is of course the same size, but lighter than the OEM one. The underdrive one is much smaller and even lighter. It underdrives the accessories (but still giving it enough power to run), and free's up (not adds) some HP @ the crank by weight reduction. If you put the OEM in one hand an an underdrive in another, the weight differential is something like 7lbs or so.

I'm sure others will explain it better than this if this doesn't make sense to you or isn't explained as well. This was the first mod I did to my new TL (other than tinting the windows).

You'll notice that your engine will rev quicker and you'll feel like you're getting more of a kick when you accelerate, especially when V-Tec kicks in. Add a CAI, TB spacers and a good exhaust and you'll have a good package for a quicker machine.

 

I have an auto with the UR underdrive pulley, and the egnine definately revs much quicker. Our motors are internal balance so no the pulley wont hurt the engine. The only thing that might be of concern to you is if you have big stereo equipment in your car. I think UR says you can safely run up to a 600 watt system with the underdrive pulley. Since you have a manual trans the old pulley should be fairly easy to remove. Mine was a PITA and the guy that helped me ended up having to use a 1" drive impact gun for big rig's to get the crank bolt out on my engine. Makes a difference and is worth it for the money.

 

i heard you could experince vibration from switching from oem to ur pulley.dave did u notice a increase in vibration?

 

wondering about this also

 

Can't speak for Dave but I have had no issues or irregularities with vibrations at all. Cheap and effective mod imo

 

I heard all over that the TB spacer does not do anything. did it help at all for you?

 

All late model engines are internally balanced. The OEM pulley is a crank damper and the torque coverter or flywheel on the other end act as dampers as well. When explosions are applied to the pistons and ultimately the crank, the dampers quell certain order vibrations which can effect bearing wear, crank longevity, etc.

As for gains, good luck finding any. Reducing rotational mass by about 7lbs with an 7" diameter pulley mounted directly to the motor will result in little or no power gains (0 to 2whp). What you will notice is a quicker revving motor in neutral and maybe some grainy vibration in the upper rpms where the damper of the OEM pulley was working it's magic. With a 6MT, you may see a harder car to launch because of the reduced moment of inertia. With a 5AT, you may see just a boggier launch.

I'd recommend saving your money and buying a mod that truely works as advertized. Do not buy into Unorthodox Racing's BS proganda and misleading advertizing/claims.

 

All I have to say is that Dave_B spouts a lot of misleading claims as well. To the OP, search up on the hundreds of the people using this pulley on this forum and make your own determination.

 

It is just VTEC (Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control). No hyphen and it is all caps. It is an acronym.

OP, It is a well worth while mod and does free up some power. Nothing neck breaking but it is well worth it. It also improves MPG.

 

It's a hell lot less lighter than the stock pulley.

I installed the UR pulley about 4 years ago and had no problems with it whatsoever.

 

Misinformation? Hardly. The OEM pulley is a damper hence the reason for that elastomer ring sandwiched within it. Just because "hundreds" of people on this forum own this mod doesn't mean it necessarily works as advertized.
Tens of thousands of Tornados have been sold over the year so does that make them worthwhile modifications. I have personally tested a UR UDP on my prior 96 Maxima. The pulley design is EXACLY the same as that of the J-series found in the TL/CL. The weight savings are roughly that same as well. On the dyno, no additional power was made. In the 1/4 mile (40 passes total with the UDP), the car was fractionally slower because it was harder to launch. In neutral, the car was quicker to rev. Unlike many people, I actually put my modifications to the test. Will the UDP wreck your J-series? Unlikely. You might suck out 20K-40K miles out of that motor, but who cares when the motor is solid well into the 250K range? The question you guys should ask yourself is what's the point of putting a mod on your car if it doesn't improve performance. Isn't that the definition of "rice"?

 

I too have tested it and it is an improvement, and I did this on the TL not a 96 Maxima. My biggest gain was seen in the MPG. A 7-8% increase. I have no issues launching the car with it being a 6 speed. I also had one on my 97 Prelude with a lightweight flywheel, no issues.

You seem to troll on every thread you post in. Is this a hobby for you? All that have done this mod to the TL enjoy it and notice a difference with it. If you have not done this mod yourself on a TL how can you honestly say what it will do to the TL?

 

Are you telling me the effects of reduce rotational inertia are more significant on the J-series A 7 to 8% gain in MPG. No f-ing way. If that was the case, Honda would have done this mod years ago. They spend millions trying to get an extra 1mpg out of a car. You think they'd pass on something as simple as a $10 peice of machined aluminum?

How else do you know this mod really works? What I find comical about a lot of you TL/CL owners is how you don't anything. You just believe what's spoon fed to you. No one on this site has been able to offer up a TL/CL dyno of a UDP yet 100s own them. Classic.

 

$ millions could have buy many zonda and bugatti, i don't think they spent millions on mpg

 

then you can get the fuck out of this site. why are you in here just giving out shits to everyone?

you talk shit to everyone in every god damn thread. so fucking annoying. AND you always brag about the Maxima you previously had. what's with you?

 

some people are talking about how the vibrations wear the bearings off quickley...anyone experience any vibrations or damage due to the UR pulley?

 

Like I've mentioned in my previous post, I didn't have any issues with it. I had it for more than 4 years and had put more than 70K miles with it in my 05 TL.

 

but do you drive auto or manual...and do you race it alot?

 

I did notice an increase in NVH, especially from 5500-7200rpms, with my VQ30. The NVH was gone the day I reinstalled the OEM pulley. I ran the UR UDP for about 20K miles.

I don't know about the bearing wear. That could have been easily been determined by sending before and after oil samples in to Blackstone Labs.

 

I'm not talking crap to anyone on this site. I just think it's funny hardly anyone actually tests many of these mods on the dyno or at the strip to see if they actually work. The majority seems to believe what's spoon fed to them by vendors and aftermarket companies. If you don't hold these companies to a standard, they'll walk all over you, take your money, and leave you with a POS mod.

I'm here because I want to be. It's a public forum, assuming you follow the rules. I have a common interest in sporty 4-doors. Also, I've been working on cars for nearly two decades and research this stuff religously. I've dealt with your type for over 10 years. They get rubbed the wrong way when someone comes in and tells them what's been commonly accepted turns out to be a farce. The anger, frustration, flames are nothing new to me. I offer up research and links to support my side of the debate. What are you offering?

 

this topic has been beaten to death. OP- if you want more info on this topic, please do a search. thanks. thread closed.